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March 16, 2012 by elromanozo
Video Sponsors: Dark Age – Battle Faom – Warmachine
Romain reviews the Army Painter Sprays and give some pointers on how to get the best results from it.
Very nice sprays indeed, the only problem I had with them is they seamed to run out pretty fast.
I haven’t had that problem… Or at least I haven’t noticed. They’re 400ml, just like the Citadel ones. It’s a standard format, really…
I found that you can probably spray a moderately sized army before it runs out. I prefer to use paint from a pot as it goes a long way and ends up being a lot more cost effective, but if you want quick and easy it’s great.
Romain, I have a small question on these sprays. I’ve been just about getting the hang of them recently, in terms of distance, and also how much spray to apply, and I shake each can for two minutes before use. Anyways after a while, the bottom of the can will buckle (bulge out a bit) and the spray dissapointingly fizzzles and dies. Is this an indicator as to the spray running out, or am I doing something wrong to provoke this?
Cans buckling like that is usually the sign of propellant gas dilation occurring inside…
Do as the instructions say : Do not store near a heat source (radiators and plumbing, fireplace, kitchen appliances, computers that get used a lot…), do not expose to the sun, store in a cool dry place (not cold, cool… Not in your fridge !).
If you’ve been doing that, it will buckle significantly, and, if so, may explode.
I am not kidding… Dispose of such a can immediately !
If you haven’t been heating your cans unduly but they are buckled nonetheless, you may be shaking too much and need to evacuate some of the gas (through spraying), although it’s never happened to me before and isn’t supposed to happen.
To tell you the truth, 30 seconds to one minute of shaking is quite enough…
If the can sputters and the paint flow is irregular even though you’re shaking the can properly, your can is near the end of its “life” : you’ll get a few miniatures’ worth out of it, but this will be its last song…
Finally, cans have a long shelf life, but it isn’t eternal… Old ones sometimes dry up, although it hasn’t happened to me in years. You sound like someone who uses them quite a bit, so I wouldn’t be concerned.
I hope this helps,
The offending cans will be chucked. I haven’t been storing them anywhere odd – just on top of a cabinet in my bedroom, out of the way of sunlight. Maybe, I shall keep them in the garage – in this weather that is sure to be cool. I’ll do 1 minute shake instead too. Thankyou for the help, you have saved many many models from and untimely demise and possibly a painter too!
Besides this, I’ve had no real problems with the sprays guys, so Go nuts with ‘em.
Love the tutorial and I must say I’m impressed with the greenskin AP for my savage orcs.
I had a small question, not about the cans but about the stand the kroot is on. what do you use to tack your models onto the stand since it has to be easily removable.
Thanks for the praise… Being useful is what I’m here for !
It’s double sided foam tape. Very affordable in most hardware of stationery stores !
1. less is more with this paint i over did a few models and the paint cracked and revealed the plastic along flat areas and destroyed detaik
2. with out sounding mean i suggest not wearing shirts with horizontsal lines because it makes you look a tad chubby (i am very sorry if this offends you but i felt i should let you know)
I like his shirt! Its great and in a past life would have given me a chubby!
Er… I am chubby. I’d look chubby in anything. It’d be silly to hide it… But I thought gamers of all people wouldn’t be judgemental of that sort of thing, considering the crowd I’ve seen at game stores.
Besides, no real proof of any “slimming” or “fattening” or otherwise appearance changing effect by stripes has been brought to light. It’s just something people say.
ow see in all your other videos you looked very skinny sorry about that
@ hatamoto dont you think i feel bad about saying that now? if the site had a delete comment button i would have pushed it already
sorry again romain i shouldnt have said that
It’s all right ! Don’t you fret over this trifle…
ow thats a reliefe thank you for being so, well how do i put it, thanks for not really caring and sorry again for the comment
Incredibly unnecessary comment there, felt I should let you know.
Good work on the review!
Hmmm, in my opinion not really a review as such, more of a “how to use spray cans” demo. For a review I’d have liked to have known how they stack up against Citadel Sprays (obviously more colours, but for the daddy of spray – Black, which does Romain prefer?) or other sprays available on the market.
A review isn’t a comparison. If you want a quick review of the Citadel ones, here it is :
The Citadel white is good enough, although every other brand is fine as well… The Citadel black has had “blooming” problems, the color becomes grey in some places.
For both cans, you have to be careful to spray at the correct distance, or you’ll spray too much or not enough… This is a real danger for the details of your miniature.
The Citadel “purity seal” varnish will protect your miniatures, but its satin finish will make them look glossy and very toylike.
There you go…
Not very keen on these at all. Ive tried a number of the colours now and seem to have the same issue time and time again. The paint comes out ‘sandy’ and leaves a rough apperiance on the mini, then about half the can used the pressure seems to run out and then its buggerd,
Bare in mind I follow the instructions to a T, and keep the paint on my shelf with my various other sprays so no idea..
If the paint looks sandy, you may be spraying too far from your miniature, of simply not spraying enough. As I’ve said, you have to spray an even coat : Seeing it, you’d think you’ve sprayed on too much, but when it dries, the paint retracts and the details show !
May I also suggest that the “half full” feeling you get from a can is subjective… If it sputters too much, press harder, shake more, or clean the nozzle, you’ll get more paint out of it… But sputtering usually means the end of it.
I’ve had mixed results with the army painter spray’s. Using the uniform grey and fur brown they worked really well, but when using the pure red I had a lot of problems, the consistency of the spay through the can varied a lot, but worse was It didn’t really work as a primer and several paints including army painter branded ones didn’t adhere to the primed surface properly and kept forming droplets. However they may still be working out the formula.
I haven’t had any issue with pure red… This may have been a defective batch ! I’ve had a consistency issue with Daemonic Yellow (the paint was too thin), other than that it’s been perfect so far.
Fellow painters near me swear by the Army Painter cans as well.
If the pait doesn’t adhere to the miniature, it may be because of the solvent (more shaking would be in order, perhaps) or more likely because of the miniature : It helps to clean the minis before hand. Some molds for plastic, resin or metal can be greasy, and dust is always a problem for minis that have been sitting on a shelf too long… But this is rarely a problem.
Oddly it was the Pure Red that I had the most trouble with, perhaps a crap batch is to blame..hmm
Thanks Romain, very helpful.
now I think about it the problems I had were all with super dungeon explore mini’s so I probably should have given them a wash. Would you use soap for washing them?
Yes, simple soapy water is fine. Rinse well.
The SDE plastic minis are very smooth indeed, and it doesn’t surprise me that paint doesn’t adhere to them very well. I’ve had problems glueing them together, which means I should have washed them as well…
In any case, I hope you have better luck painting them !
I used the desert color and it works rather well. As of resent I’m going to buy a spray gun attachment that clips onto spray cans. An art store near my work sells custom spray cans with no nozzle. I’m willing to write up a review on it and what it turned out like.
I should also say that the can I have is still in use and that can was used on an IG army. I found it well worth the price.
Army painter is great for places that have higher humidity. Also, i find that army painter performs better in a wider variety of temps over your standard cheaper primers (altho Krylon is pretty much way cheaper and about the same.) Sometimes its hard to swallow 16 USD for one can…
bonne vidéo, merci pour l’explication,
Could you do a video on using an air brush? And what about weathering powders? I know that buy painted has done a vid on air brushes but I would like to hear you technique and opinions.
I’ve never tried army painters sprays but to be honest I have never heard many positive reviews from Danish painters (Armypainter is a Danish company) but they might have improved the quality A good alternative however is the Gold series from Montana http://www.montana-cans.com/ which I have had great success with I can’t really compare them to army painter sprays as I haven’t tried them but the most obvious advantage is the 204 different shades they provide and the low costs (they are in the vicinity of £4 a can, with 400ml in). Also they adhere well to both plastic, resin and metal and they have great coverage without compromising the miniatures details. They are supplied with a standard cap (the nozzle) which is a standard size, and different caps can be bought for different purposes although that isn’t really necessary for standard basecoating use
Any good street wear shops/ skateboard shops might have them (I bought all of mine at my local street wear shop) and if not then wayland games actually sell them as well even though they are a bit more expensive through them
as always.awesome review romain!
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