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This group is all about sharing great pics of beautiful models and other cool hobby stuff.

Why not show of your latest tip, trick or colour scheme and lets all get inspired.

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Addicted to the ’Army Painter’ method (15 posts)

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  • Avatar Image warbossd92p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Yet another army I banged out in less than two weeks thanks to the army painter method.
    Still waiting for my pale grass desert tufts for the bases then everything needs a good coat of anti-shine but really came together quickly once I got started.

  • Avatar Image mage6054p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Looks good. Celestial Vindicators?

    Which tone did you use?

    Any chance of close up photos of different units and maybe a stage by stage of your work?

  • Avatar Image snowdog104p said 2 months, 1 week ago:


  • Avatar Image mrpage13p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    That’s remarkable for two weeks!

    I’m curious: do you use the varnish or the washes, and if the varnish do you dip or brush it on? Thanks!

  • Avatar Image blinky46556p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Which tone did you use? I’ve found that strong tone is great on “warm” colours (greens, reds etc) but makes blues and greys look a bit muddy. I prefer dark tone on “cold” colours (but often that means more touching up afterwards). Strong tone = brown, dark tone = black.

    Have you had any success with the anti-shine spray from Army Painter? I keep getting nasty frosting with it, so gave up (but Testor’s Dullcote gives a really good finish when painted on instead)

  • Avatar Image nakchak4581p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    @blinky465 how long did you wait to anti shine?
    You need to wait at least 12 hours (24+ ideally) before you anti shine it after dipping, as the dip needs to de-gas, also its sensitive to humidity dont bother spraying it if its raining…

    There is no ignominy, there is glory,
    There is no servitude, there is dominance,
    There is no defeat, there is victory… victory eternal!
  • Avatar Image blinky46556p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I learned – from bitter experience – to wait at the very least 24 hours (preferably 48) after applying strong/dark tone (I prefer to splosh it on rather than dipping). I’ve tried anti-shine at all times of the year, indoors and out, so I don’t *think* it’s humidity related…. anyway, that’s my method – strong tone, leave 48hrs, paint on dullcote.

    I found some Blood Bowl minis in the loft, so am going to have a go at batch painting them over the coming days using Army Painter paints and strong tone; I love the AP way of getting lots done, relatively quickly.

  • Avatar Image torros4255p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Sadly I just don’t like the AP anti shine. Something always seems to go wrong with it. Much prefer the humbrol or Winsor and Newton spray

  • Avatar Image warbossd92p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks for the feedback. I’ll do some proper pictures when they are 100% finished.
    I used soft tone quickshade on these. I didn’t want to lose the vibrancy of the colours.
    I always brush quickshade on. I’ve tried dipping but it always over darkens things and it isn’t that much slower using a brush.
    I always wait at least 24 hours before anti-shine. It is usually longer because I finish basing colours and decoration after the quickshade step which takes time. Matt varnish goes on last to bind in static grass etc.
    Personally I have never had a problem with anti-shine.
    I always spray indoors here in the UK into a big cardboard box as an impromptu spray booth and apply two thin coats.
    I haven’t tried other matt varnishes but i’m sure you’d get just as good results.
    I’ve read on the internet that people use the GW gloss washes in the same way as quickshade to get similar results.
    The important things about the process are neat clean base colours, a high surface tension tint which settles in deep recesses with minimal surface residue on rest of model and a matt coat to finish.

  • Avatar Image ced1106132p said 2 months, 1 week ago:


    Every assembly painter should get their wash set, or at least try their brown Strong Tone on their monsters! For fantasy bad guys, dark brown Strong Tone easily shows off those details of those dirty, grubby, unhygienic fodder for your armies and murder hobos.

    For generic fantasy miniatures, I really like AP’s Leather Brown spray primer. I often use it on top of black or darker brown for zenithal priming. Leather Brown is an excellent underpaint color (easier to paint over brown than black), as well as good generic brown for wood, leather, etc. Definitely great when you have to bang out fifty chests from two KS projects!

    If you have a skedaddle of orcs, I have an AP tutorial, using the KoW Greenskins paint set :

  • Avatar Image damon273p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I second the AP brown sprays for undercoating, light colours go down much easier than over black. Black lining or pin washing before the base colours go down can give some nice definition to separate different colours.
    For the anti shine I found the can needs a really good shake and warming it in a bowl of warm water before use can help on a cold day. I also give figures a gentle warm with a hair dryer before varnishing, but not too hot because I found AP Quickshade can scorch and turn a funny orange colour. Only time I’ve had frosting was because the can was running out.

  • Avatar Image milmaa248p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Nice work! Very impressed! I may well adopt this for my first AoS force when i start :)

  • Avatar Image warbossd92p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    As requested. Some ‘better’ photos of the models.

  • Avatar Image blinky46556p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    After seeing these posts I was inspired to dust off my Army Painter sprays and batch paint some old Orcs for Blood Bowl. I’m very much going for a “that’ll do, tabletop” standard, and hoping to get 12 players onto the pitch by the end of the weekend. The focus is on getting an entire team painted quickly, rather than having one or two stand-out character pieces (plus, it’s been a long time since I did any painting, so am easing back into it gently, without putting too much pressure on myself to turn out any masterpieces!)

    So far, have stuck with a very simple palette of limited colours – my preference is to paint “block colours” with maybe three or four main colours, then “dip” (actually, splosh on rather than actually dip the minis) then Dullcote and edge highlight and paint in the smaller details with the odd spot colour here and there.

    Until they’re dipped, the miniatures tend to look quite “garish” and bright – the strong/dark tone really does tone them down quite a bit. Also, I’ve never got on with the Army Painter anti-shine and I’ve found that while Testor’s Dullcote gives a great matt finish, it also “de-saturates” the colours a little (making them less vibrant).

    Normally for “warm” colours like reds and greens, I prefer the slightly brown-y Strong Tone but for these orcs, I thought I’d try the darker/blacker Dark Tone and I think I prefer this.

    One thing I really like about Army Painter “dip” is that it’s very forgiving of slightly dodgy painting – so where I’ve gone “outside the lines” the dark tone helps hide the joins quite nicely, neatening up the whole paint effect.

    I’ve got 36 hours to kill before Dullcoting these (anything less than 24 hours drying time and you’re asking for trouble) so will get on with preparing the last batch of four orcs while this lot dry fully.

  • Avatar Image yggdrasil143p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I’ve recently put the finishing touches to this unit of Prince Ruperts Blew coats. I agree with brushing the quickshade on over dipping the models. Plus it was difficult getting the pikes in the tin. Thus, being inspired by the splendid examples posted so far, I thought I’d share these.
    @blinky465 @warbossd looking splendid indeed.

    Also, sorry about the photos, the camera on my phone isn’t too good.