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This group is all about sharing great pics of beautiful models and other cool hobby stuff.

Why not show of your latest tip, trick or colour scheme and lets all get inspired.

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Army Painter Method Works! Kamaron is painting everything! (20 posts)

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  • Avatar Image kamaron243p said 1 year ago:

    A humble spaniard trying to paint every miniature he owns using the Army Painter Method.

  • Avatar Image kamaron243p said 1 year ago:

    Hello fellow beasts of war :^)

    After watching the Hobbie Weekend Special about Rune Wars and the Army Painter Method, it inspired me to try that painting sistem myself during the Easter Holidays here in Spain.
    And I ended painting five miniatures for my In Her Magesty’s Name band, “Madame Loveless and her cheerful girls” and a complete Blood Bowl Team! I am so pleased and surprised with how well this method has worked for me, that I needed to show you all :^)

    loveless_team011.jpg
    madame_loveless_misako.jpg
    muchachas_01.jpg
    karakuri_01.jpg
    skaven_equipo_01.jpg
  • Avatar Image mbdeyes150p said 1 year ago:

    The Skaven team seems to have taken particularly well to this method. I love the clockwork Karakuri, by the way.

    Later I might share some picture of the plastic Brewers team from the Guild Ball ‘Kick Off!’ box I painted up using their method last week. I’m not completely satisfied with the, so technically I’m still working on them, but they certainly look good enough for table top standard.

  • Avatar Image kamaron243p said 1 year ago:

    @mbdeyes said:
    The Skaven team seems to have taken particularly well to this method. I love the clockwork Karakuri, by the way.

    Later I might share some picture of the plastic Brewers team from the Guild Ball ‘Kick Off!’ box I painted up using their method last week. I’m not completely satisfied with the, so technically I’m still working on them, but they certainly look good enough for table top standard.

    Thanks! The Skaven Team was the real test, because I forced myself to paint as fast as I could to achive the “tabletop look”. And more or less 12 hours later, I was finished. The team is not mine, I painted for free for a friend. It needs at least another highlight for my taste, but because of the speed limitation (and because the minis are not mine xD) I stopped at that point.

    skaven_linea_01.jpg
    skaven_blitzer_01.jpg
    skaven_corredor_01.jpg
    skaven_lanza_01.jpg
  • Avatar Image beardragon142154p said 1 year ago:

    fantastic job ….that skaven team is superb……quality results all round.

    Likes: KoW, DS, DB, DZ, AoS, MESBG, BB, WWX, GB, WM/H, AW and acronyms :-)
    Also likes: Dwarfs, Beer, Family, Good Friends, and Women with no taste in Men (thank god for them)
  • Avatar Image jahatch28150p said 1 year ago:

    I used a bit of the army painter method on my Brewers from the Kick off set as well.. they are a bit .. tougher isn’t the right word… slower? to paint because they are all different sculpts and there are a lot of details that don’t necessarily lend themselves to being a monotone as some other batch-painted units might be.. but that said, I was able to paint mine in a much quicker time frame and am pleased with the results. Next up are the Mason’s who I think will be easier because of the amount of armor and a bit more unified appearance… now the question is whether to prime in blue and paint on the metalic bits or prime metalic and paint on the blue bits..

  • Avatar Image craigwrdouglas529p said 1 year ago:

    I had a go with the dip, but didn’t really get the results I was expecting, it came out with a matt finish and blotchy.

    The test ‘model’ was a resin base from DAM, which I painted grey and brown, then blue-tacked to the top of a paint pot, then dipped it into the strong tone tin.

    is it that a base is bot a good choice for the process (e.g. is the dip supposed to run off) or is it that it needs stirred (I shook it pretty well, but didn’t want the mess that goes with stirring it especially as I am using it indoors )

  • Avatar Image kamaron243p said 1 year ago:

    @jahatch28 said:
    I used a bit of the army painter method on my Brewers from the Kick off set as well.. they are a bit .. tougher isn’t the right word… slower? to paint because they are all different sculpts and there are a lot of details that don’t necessarily lend themselves to being a monotone as some other batch-painted units might be.. but that said, I was able to paint mine in a much quicker time frame and am pleased with the results. Next up are the Mason’s who I think will be easier because of the amount of armor and a bit more unified appearance… now the question is whether to prime in blue and paint on the metalic bits or prime metalic and paint on the blue bits..

    Painting the main color when priming is great. My stragety is to paint is to choose the hardest main color to cover. It helps a lot, not only in time, but pshycologically too.

  • Avatar Image kamaron243p said 1 year ago:

    @craigwrdouglas said:
    I had a go with the dip, but didn’t really get the results I was expecting, it came out with a matt finish and blotchy.

    The test ‘model’ was a resin base from DAM, which I painted grey and brown, then blue-tacked to the top of a paint pot, then dipped it into the strong tone tin.

    is it that a base is bot a good choice for the process (e.g. is the dip supposed to run off) or is it that it needs stirred (I shook it pretty well, but didn’t want the mess that goes with stirring it especially as I am using it indoors )

    If you are using the can, you need to shake the mini afterwards, and never shake the can, it produces bubbels and can ruin the effect. Take a look at this video from the Hobbie Weekeend about how to use it:_
    http://www.beastsofwar.com/liveblogentry/using-army-painter-quickshade-dip-flick/

    If you are using a brush, don’t use so much xD

  • Avatar Image limburger2178p said 1 year ago:

    @kamaron :
    I must admit that after seeing the army painter bootcamp I was thinking of doing the same thing to my stuff too.
    I’m not sure if it is of any use for low model count games because you’d have to have a ton of spray cans and that could be expensive.

    festina lente cauta fac omnia mente
  • Avatar Image craigwrdouglas529p said 1 year ago:

    Thanks @kamaron looks like I need to stir rather than shake – not sure I want to try the flick thing as I own the house I’m living in :) , but I’ll try another base and painting it on with a brush. Cheers!

  • Avatar Image craigwrdouglas529p said 1 year ago:

    @limburger I was just going to use my Vallejo matt varnish through the airbrush as the anti-shine, it comes in 17ml bottles whilst I think the rattle can from army painter is 400ml

  • Avatar Image mbdeyes150p said 1 year ago:

    @limburger said:
    @kamaron :
    I must admit that after seeing the army painter bootcamp I was thinking of doing the same thing to my stuff too.
    I’m not sure if it is of any use for low model count games because you’d have to have a ton of spray cans and that could be expensive.

    Colour matching with the primer is nice, but you’re right. If you’re not doing an entire army in the same colour it would be cost prohibitive for a low model count.

    For the Brewers (6 models) I used my regular primer (Krylon camo, in this case black, I believe), then airbrushed on the base colour I wanted. It worked out nicely to give the models a little bit of ‘pre-shading’ as I put the base colour on a little thinner on the underside.

    As for the dip, I’d be reluctant to dip and flick. I’ve gotten very used to selectively layering on my washes/inks, but it seems to work reasonably well for tabletop quality armies, as seen by the OP’s Skaven.

  • Avatar Image jahatch28150p said 1 year ago:

    I’ve done the dip and flick (but also shake/shake/shake the can because it does settle a lot IMHO)… and the result is MUCH darker than a thin application with a paint brush… this was with the strong tone.. I wonder if I’d have been happier using soft tone?…

    That said, I’ve found metalics don’t work as well with the dip .. it dulls them and I feel like i have to go back and repaint them… but for other colors i’ve been happy… it is actually challenging to NOT try to shade and highlight much … although I’m going to try doing a bit more exaggerated highlighting and see if the dip / quickshade works better with that or if it just comes out looking weird =p

  • Avatar Image limburger2178p said 1 year ago:

    @craigwrdouglas you’re right … at that level even plain old varnish and anti shine cans can be a bit overkill, but at least they’re relatively future proof.
    Coloured primer spray cans are probably only cost effective if you’re painting a proper horde of orcs or something equally big.

    I’d wish Army Painter would do smaller spray cans sizes specifically for these smaller sized teams.