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HOG: Flames of War Starter Set Prize from BoW Boot Camp 2017 (41 posts)

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  • Avatar Image lawnor1295p said 2 months, 2 weeks ago:

    I don’t usually write hobby logs, sticking to posting in WAYPN at the end of each days work, but this is a special case. Last year I was lucky enough to win one of the Flames of War starter bundles BoW were giving away around the FoW boot camp weekend. As such I thought it might be good to make a HOG out of it, and give a little something extra back to show the staff the prizes are appreciated. I’ve had the stuff sat on my shelf staring at me for a long time, but I’ve had higher priority models to focus on. I’ve almost done what I’ve needed to (2 models left to go), so the time to start the prep work on these guys is now.

    So what did I win? What’s in the boxes?

    FW007 Flames Of War Rulebook – Mid War
    FW241 Desert Rats – Hardback faction book
    FW242 Afrika Korps – Hardback faction book

    BBX33 25pdr Field Troop (Plastic) : Contains 4 guns and their crews
    BRAB09 Monty’s Desert Rats : Contains 5 plastic Grant tanks, 3 plastic Crusader tanks, 1 plastic Tank Commander sprue, 2 plastic 17/25 pdr or 25 pdr guns and their crews, 1 mini 4th Flames Of War rulebook

    GBX98 8.8cm Heavy AA Platoon (Plastic) : Contains 2 guns and their crews
    GEAB14 Rommel’s Afrika Korps : Contains 5 plastic Panzer III tanks, 3 plastic Panzer IV tanks, 1 plastic Tank Commander sprue, 2 plastic 8.8cm Heavy AA guns and their crew, 1 mini 4th Flames Of War rulebook

    Thats 26 15mm models. Having painted some Dropzone Commander (10mm scale) before I thought this would be a quick, simple build and paint job. I assumed the models would be 2-5 simple pieces each. I’ve taken the sprews out of the box to wash them before I start work and the reality is they are much more like Bolt Action tank kits. They are quite complicated for the scale and compared to what I’m used to (I don’t normally do historicals, or model kits. I’m mostly a Warmachine player.) Have a look at it all layed out to dry:

    I washed the sprues in my kitchen sink with dish soap and hot water from the tap. They got quite bendy very easily, even after the water cooled a little. I would warn anyone else washing them to be careful. I was planning on scrubbing everything with a toothbrush as I normally do, but I was as gentle as I could be for fear of bending something, or breaking something small off a sprue and losing it down the drain. 2 pieces came off anyway (That I found. I hope no more got lost. I guess I’ll find out later). I left them out like this for a day to dry, but as they were on my bed I reboxed them at the end of the day, and some of the deper narrow parts still had water in them.

    So whats the plan?

    I could prime and base coat them on the sprues. With an airbrush it would take no time at all. However I’m concerned that once I clip them off the sprues and trim off any flush there will be exposed plastic on display and I’ll need to reprime and repaint them. Right now I’m planning to build everything before any paint touches it, except for probably the infantry. They are single piece models so may work out best where they are. But then again I won’t be able to put them down anywhere while wet as the infantry come out of both sides of the sprue.

    I have 3 other models I need to finish building tonight, and then I should probably paint the last 2 models I have for Circle Orboros just in case I need them for BonesCon in February (I don’t think I will so I might skip them). I still need to get the paints for these too so theres time for peoples opinions. When I paint them I will try to follow the painting guides within the faction books. It seems they have moved from using Vallejo paints to their own custom range (Colours of war, CoW). I have no desire to buy in to that range so I will be converting back to Vallejo, or P3 or whatever I already have where posible. Thankfully they have released a conversion chart for most of their paints, and there is always the DakkDakka chart.

    The books tell me I will want the following paints. Some I own. Some I’ll need to buy. Some I have no comparable paint so will need to figure something out (If anyone can help, I’ll be grateful. I know I’ve seen some CoW behind John in the videos, if he reads this… :

    CoW => Vallejo
    Black 300 = Vallejo Black 950
    Panzer Grey 303 = German Grey 995
    Worn Canvas 306 = Stone Grey 884
    Battlefield Brown 324 = like 826 German Camo Medium Brown, but paler
    Military khaki 327 = Khaki 988
    Afrika Green 346 = Yellow Green 881
    Firefly Green 348 = Russian Uniform 894
    Crusader sand 363 = Dark Sand
    Dry dust 364 = Iraqi Sand 819
    Dak Sand = ??? (Nakchak: VMC 70.340 Afrika Korps Highlight?)
    Motherland Earth 383 = Flat Earth 983
    Eurpoean Skin 385 = Flat Flesh 955
    Dark Gunmetal 480 = like 863 Gunmetal Grey, but darker
    Skin Shade 491 = ??? (I have P3 Flesh Wash. Can probably just use that)
    Bradley Shade 490 = ??? (Nakchak: GW Athonian Camo Shade?)
    Rommel shade 494 = ???(Nakchak: GW Agrax Earthshade?)

    CoW conversion chart:
    DakkDakka chart:

    If anyone has any opinions or advice, feel free to chip in. I expect I’ll base with regular sand, and perhaps some kitty litter rocks. Anyone know of some suitable, readily available desert type tufts? Can anyone fill in the blanks on the paint conversions above?

  • Avatar Image nakchak4583p said 2 months, 2 weeks ago:

    for DAK sand, you could try looking vallejo’s panzer aces range, 70.340 (Afrika Korps Highlight) looks pretty similar
    for the shades anything in the ballpark would work

    There is no ignominy, there is glory,
    There is no servitude, there is dominance,
    There is no defeat, there is victory… victory eternal!
  • Avatar Image limburger2135p said 2 months, 2 weeks ago:

    @lawnor :
    Those last two are inks/washes/shades.that are meant of the primary colours of their respective armies.
    ie : bradley = us/british?; rommel = dak
    I’m no expert painter, so I can’t help you match those shades to anything.

    I wouldn’t worry too much about matching exact colours.
    You can always blame the desert heat for them not being perfect ;-)

    festina lente cauta fac omnia mente
  • Avatar Image lawnor1295p said 2 months, 2 weeks ago:

    True, but it would be nice to be in the ballpark. Unfortunately I don’t have access to the CoW paints to really tell what they are. I bet if I google pics of the bottles I’ll find photos that don’t appear to match. I’ll figure something out if I have to.

  • Avatar Image georgesealy402p said 2 months, 2 weeks ago:

    @lawnor the DAK in particular were all over the place in terms of colour. And then there was the fading due to the sun. And the “borrowed” gear from the enemy. I wouldn’t worry too much. More important for a gaming army is to ensure the colours have enough contrast to avoid blending into each other.

    Here’s a great paint guide for 32mm, although you may want to lighten these colours a tad due to the scale difference (if that’s your thing).

  • Avatar Image nakchak4583p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    @lawnor FWIW the two shades just seem to be brown and green washes, for bradley wa(l)sh you could use the GW something camo shade and for rommel shade agrax earthshase or seraphim sepia could work…

  • Avatar Image lawnor1295p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Athonian camo shade? I already have that (I only own about 10-15 GW paints), and what painter doesn’t own agrax? Cheers.

  • Avatar Image lawnor1295p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I started my assembly last night. I thought I’d begin with something with a smaller, simpler sprue so I went with the German 8.8cm AA Heavy Platoons. I have 4 of them.

    For the scale, there’s a lot on the sprue, compared to what I’m used to at 10mm. There’s also a separate sprue with 5 crew on it. When building this I went to their website as it contains construction guides not included in the box (That I’ve seen. I’ve yet to open the pack of stat cards). The instructions were helpful and simple and the model went together really easy. Seems these kits are much simpler than I thought when I first saw everything laid out together. They required very little cleaning up too. I did have one problem though. The plastic is so fine and thin that it broke very easily. There was one part that broke twice just being removed from the sprue, but as you can see I was able to glue both parts on well enough

    The models are designed such that the guns retain articulation. If I have one issue with their instructions, its that it never says when not to glue so as to allow movement after assembly. They do have videos though so perhaps that would have advised this? I have now finished building all 4, but I have left off the crew, base decorations, and the base. I will likely deal with these separately, until everything is painted. I’m currently thinking I can glue sand on to the bases and at the least prime and base coat the model and the bases before gluing them together. This should allow me to easily use my airbrush with different colours on both.

    I was running out of time, but I was able to assemble one of the six British 25pdr Field Troops.

    The instructions here were confusing. It discusses 2 guns, the mid war and the late war variant. Then during assembly it insists you use a third gun and never mentions those 2 variants again. They remain on the sprue unused. The ammo trailer comes with variant doors left closed so I’ll probably build half that way.

    With 1 of each artillery pieces built I was able to prep the bases before calling it a night. FoW bases come with multiple slots to fit infantry in so you can vary their positions and not repeat patterns too much. I was able to map out where the artillery would fit on all 10 bases, and put the slot covers in where needed. I marked the underside of each base so i can pair them up with the correct models when the time comes.

    With that done I was able to mix up some PVA and water and apply a thin coat over the bases, avoiding the holes for incoming infantry. I then sprinkled sand over them. They were left overnight to dry, and then coated with an even more dilute mix before work this morning. I’ll prime them and base coat them before I glue the painted infantry in place. I’ll then do my best to attach more sand in around the feet on the crew and then paint, shade and highlight all the base at once.

    Colour-wise, for the bases I’m wanting a desert effect. I’m thinking VMC Iraqi Sand (Or match the base colour of the tanks for each faction to add to the feel of camouflage?), then wash with a dilute mix of GW Seraphim Sepia or perhaps Agrax Earthshade), and then drybrush with something light and flat like a bone. Does this sound right?

    Tonight I plan on finishing the assembly on the Artillery, and if I’m lucky start building the tanks. I picked up what paints I could from my FLGS this week, and I’ve just had an email saying the rest I’ve ordered have just gone in the post.

    As a quick review I would say that the FoW kits are very simple to put together. The moulds are clean and require almost no work. The material is fragile, perhaps mostly because the parts are small and very thin in places. The instructions are clear and easy to follow and include optional videos that can offer different information so its worth watching them even if you run off the photo guide. I’m enjoying working with these kits so far, especially having spent the weekend trying to clean up older Mantic Deadzone models in their lovely restic.

  • Avatar Image lawnor1295p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I’ve finished building the artillery and so far this morning I’ve built one of each of the German tanks. Each sprue comes with a few optional decorative parts, but I can’t identify two of the pieces. Here they are seen from both sides:

    Can anyone tell me what they are? The look like they should slot in to something but I can’t see a matching hole anywhere.

    The models also come with fuel cans and spare wheels. I’m happy adding these to the models, but if theres anywhere any of the optional extras should or shouldn’t go I’d be grateful for a pointer. I know I don’t need them, but it’s always nice to add a little character to a model, especially if you’re gonna have multiple duplicates on the table.

    I’m sure I’ll be back with more of these once I’ve built some British tanks.

    I’ve also had this happen to one of my pots of glue. Thats as high as I can get the lid. it spins freely but it just won’t come off. Thankfully I’ve got a spare but theres still good glue left in there. Any ideas how to get the lid off? I’ve tried percussive maintenance and wedging a screwdriver up inside it and wiggling it about.

  • Avatar Image somegeezer2099p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Quite a haul. Your left mystery bit looks like a rack of Jerry cans, on the right a toolbox.

  • Avatar Image lawnor1295p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I see the Jerry cans now that you’ve said it. Thanks. I guess then either would sit anywhere at the back of the tank where they could fit and not get in the way of the turret.

  • Avatar Image torros4270p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    From memory the cans go on one side and the tool box on the other. I think in the desert they were used to hold water

  • Avatar Image nakchak4583p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    pop the lid in a vice and pull…

    That said ive recently ditched locktite for gorrilla super glue, mainly because they now do a bottle which has both a nozzle and a brush in it!

  • Avatar Image lawnor1295p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks for the help everyone. I’ve one more Panzer to build and then its the Brits. I hope to have full pics of everything built up before dinner.

    Sadly, I dont have a vice to hand. I’m also concerned that the golue would go everywhere. I’ll have a look for Gorilla glue. I need to restock. I don’t like not having a spare bottle to hand.

  • Avatar Image lawnor1295p said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Thats all the building done. Its taken 2 evenings and a saturday to get done. I think if I knew what I was doing it could have taken 10-15 minutes per model to go from sprue to finish build, but I had a lot of uncertainty. When I built my 5 identical tank I timed myself and it took 15 minutes, but that was without the option extras and without any crew. All in all I think I’ve spent about 13 hours building 26 models and I still need to cut out and attach the crews, where applicable.


    Panzer III, 5cm & Uparmoured

    Panzer IV Long 7.5cm


    2 Crusader III (6pdr) and 1 Crusader CS (3″)

    Grants (37mm & 75mm)

    The turrets are held in place by a peg, which allows them to rotate and be removed. The fit was snug and I know I’ll end up getting paint on the peg so I took a file to them all to make them narrower so they can afford to get a little fatter.

    These kits were great and simple to put together. Everything fit together well and the glue held first time almost every time. It’s near impossible to glue something on the wrong side or the wrong way round as every part is “keyed” with different shaped connections.

    If I have one complaint it’s that nothing is labelled on the sprues. Even with the assembly guides in front of me it was hard to identify which part they were telling me to work with, and i could not identify a few of the optional parts.

    Anyway, thats the pre painting building stage over with. Thank god too. My fingers are more dried superglue than flesh right now. I can’t feel anything with my fingertips through it all. Tomorrow I’ll prime it all, but I might not be able to start painting as I’m still waiting for most of the paint to be delivered.

    If I’ve stuck any of the extras in any stupid places (ie over important hatches or blocking vital vents etc) please let me know while theres still a chance I can remove them. I googled for pics but didn’tfind much that looked useful but I’m far from an expert on tanks.