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This group is all about sharing great pics of beautiful models and other cool hobby stuff.

Why not show of your latest tip, trick or colour scheme and lets all get inspired.

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Infinity Proyect: Ikari Company Battle Force (15 posts)

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  • Avatar Image kamaron248p said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Hello and good morning / afternoon / evening to all of the Beast of War Community.

    Inspired in the sneak peeks of the BoW 2.0. website, I decided to start a forum proyect about my new Ikari Company army from the Infinity Uprising book.

    In this proyect I will talk not only about painting. Conversions, kitbash and even attempts to moulding and cloning certain pieces will be adressed. I hope you all like this proyect, I’m very pumped about it :D

    0) Inspiration and some comment.

    I really like Infinity. I don’t play very actively but like the miniatures and the world. But second edition was pretty much a mess of a game system xD Third edition is great and i’ve been coming back to play with my first faction: YuJing.

    When Infinity Uprising was announced, I was very very excited because I’d have an excuse to finally buy and “legally” play with some of my favourite miniatures, the Druze Shock Team. I was almost certain I’d assemble a Druze army, but then Carlos dropped the bomb: YuJing was about to lose ALL of the JSA profiles. It should have not bothered me in the slightest, I was used to play almost all my games “japaneseless” except for the Karakuri, other of my favourite profile and miniatures in the Faction.
    So, when Carlos unveiled that there would be a faction where I could field BOTH the Druze and the Karakuri, I was sold xD

  • Avatar Image seldon91932p said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    I’m looking forward to seeing how this pans out :)

  • Avatar Image kamaron248p said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    1) Solving problems: the Infinity Heel Dilemma.

    As I’ve said before, I love Infinity miniatures. Not all of course, but 90% of the whole range, wich is rather impressive.

    BUT

    I HATE FEMALE “BATTLE HEELS”.

    “Battle heels” are some of the most obnoxious things to pop up from recent modelling trends around the industry. Female warrior/soldier? Give her heels!.
    I will agree that they look “almost” reasonable, and in some instances I would have no problem at all: Odalisques, Bakunin troops and female civil miniatures can wear those heels no problem. But I don’t want them in my professional soldiers. And I had a nasty surprise after buying the new Druze Shock Team box, which has both male and female models…

    In this first picture you can see the difference between the male (Left) and female (Right) models of the box. The HEELS are here u_uU

    I’d already made a previous conversion of the special edition Druze Hacker, changing the boots from an old female PanO fusilier (that has aparently from a time before this madness xD) and redoing her posture into something less “pinupy” and more badass :D

    The problem is that I only have other fusilier and three potential miniatures to convert to (both Druze form the box and the exlusive Brawler from the preorder) so a new plan was in order: making moulds.

    0126.jpg
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  • Avatar Image kamaron248p said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    2) Moulding my way out.

    Luckily I was prepared for this challenge. A few year ago I purchased a special clay called Oyumaru. Can’t tell you where I bought it from, but it should be easy to find because it’s used a lot in tutorials around the internet.

    As you can see, the instructions are very straight forward. I mocrowaved some water in a mug, as it only needs water to be around 80 degrees celsius.

    Put some Oyumaru into the water and wait 3 minutes aprox. By then it “melts” and can be used to make the moulds.
    But what did I used for the mould itself? Fair question and easy answer, internet’s most useful mould making material: LEGO xD

    2.1) Atempt number 1:

    1. This is my first try. Is a small one because I was thinking in making two moulds, one for each boot, so I though I didn’t need something big. (Spoiler: I did needed it xD).
    Those are the main body and the press piece.

    2. Here you can see what my idea was.

    3. First half of the first boot. I put the Oyumaru , pressed the leg and used the pressing piece to flatten the surface.

    4. Second half of the mould done. Not very clean, but it’s quite simple to do, really.

    5. Both parts of the mould. Is a little hard to see, but a lot of detail passed to the Oyumaru.

    I was very impressed at this point of the process, because the clay is very friendly to put into use, and everything was going smoothly, I decided to make another mould from LEGO for the second boot and try my first cloned part ever, using an old sculpt putty called Magic Sculpt.
    It didn’t work. AT ALL. The Magic Sculpt might have gone bad with time (si very old) and didn’ harden. Sorry I have no photos of the disaster, but I was in a hurry to clean the mess xD

    So I decided to change to regular green stuff. And it when better, but not with the detail I’d liked.
    I don’t have photos of that try alone, but will show you when comparating the resutls of both mould designs.
    And I didn’t used resin because I didn’t have xD And the pieces are so small that green stuff worked really well at the end.
    So, I was not very happy with the results. The idea of having each leg separately sounded great at first, but the position of the model made the moulding of one of the legs very hard and awkward to work with, so a new LEGO structure was needed.

    oyumaru.jpg
    oyumaru02.jpg
    0320.jpg
    error.jpg
  • Avatar Image kamaron248p said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    2.2. Atempt number 2:

    1. With a little more practice under my belt, I built a new LEGO structure.

    2 and 3. It was bigger to acomodate the whole leg piece and sturdier because I was planning to use elastic rubbers to apply more pressure onto the mould.

    4. The results were already way better than with the first mould.

    5. and 6. You can see that the amount of detail is rather impressive for a process so simple. The extra pressure and time of the elastic rubber made a difference too.

    Oyumaru cools quickly, I don’t think I waited more than 10 ~15 total at this stage, but can’t be sure.

    With both pieces ready, I started the new try:

    1. I used talcum powder, can’t say if I’d read it somewhere or was just a happy idea xD

    2. Green Stuff and continuous pressure. It needs to harden so I left it a few hours. You don’t need to let it harden completely, it can finish outside the mould.

    3. That was more like it. Details were crisp and I was very very happy with the results. So I made the second pair of boots.

    And finally here is the comparation between the first copy with the separate boots method and the two copies with the sturdier LEGO mould.

    Next, it’s conversion time!

    moldebuenoproceso.jpg
    moldebuenoproceso02.jpg
    moldebuenoproceso03.jpg
  • Avatar Image davehawes386p said 1 week, 2 days ago:

    Fascinating to see the process of how mould making and casting. Great detail on showing the process as well.

    Check out my fantasy miniatures game Deneb!
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  • Avatar Image kamaron248p said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    @seldon9 @davehawes Thanks for your interest, I hope what waits to come will be also interesting :D

  • Avatar Image kamaron248p said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    3. First we cast, then we convert

    With me really satisfied with the quality of the casted pieces, It was time to start the assembly of the new troops.

    Making conversions can be frightening at first, you are literally drestroying a cool mini in an atempt to make it unique or cooler. My first advice is GO GET SOME TOOLS. Many (many) of the proyects I’m and have been working would been almost imposible without the right tools for the job. Army Painter has very good bundles and are easy to find. I really like GW stuff too.

    – Hobby Knife. This is a nobrainer xD The most basic of the tools. If you don’t have one, you are doing something wrong…

    – Precision Knife. Not as important, but if you get one, you will love it. Use it for cleaning cast lines and for some precision cutting, obviously. Don’t apply too much force or use it as a regular knife as is relatively fragile.

    – Manual drill with diferent sized drills. This one is obligatory if you want to pin parts or a mini to a resin base, for example. Have both the Games Workshop and Army Painter ones, I think I prefer the second one.

    – Cutter. Very useful when even the Hobby Knife is not enough. It can mess the model, specially metal ones if used incorrectly.

    - Metal Saw. Paired with the drill, this is for me the holy grail of the hobbie enthusiast. I use it A LOT. Cuts through metal like butter.

    Ok, let’s start with the process.

    1. Cut the metal bar. Not only we are changing the feet but I will use MicroArt resin bases , so we don’t need them.

    2. Mark roughly where the mini will stand on the base. This will help when drilling the holes.

    3. Cut the boots of the figure with a metal saw or a knife. I’d used roughly the block at the leg as a guide.

    4. Drill the holes onto the base. I like to use clips for my pinning. They are just of the right size for the smallest drill, and are cheap to buy. You will need to use a very strong Cutter, stronger than the Army Painter one shown in the picture.

    5 and 6. Drill holes onto both legs and the casted boots. Remenber to reverse turn the drill before putting it out the hole to get rid of the debris.

    7. Cut a straight piece from the clip and pass it through the boots, body and base. Glue it all together. Congrats, you’ve done it!

    Here you can see a comparation between the male figure, my conversion and the regular female figure. It need some green stuff to smoothen the transition, but I was already very pleased with the results.

    moldebuenoproceso04.jpg
    moldebuenoproceso05.jpg
  • Avatar Image kamaron248p said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    4. Druze Shock Team, primed and ready!

    And finally, the first new troops for my Ikari Company force are complete! Primed and ready to paint when the book comes and I can take a look at the colour scheme :D

    I’m very very happy with how they come up in the end :D I think a good conversion is that one when you cannot distinguish if the mini was like that from the start.

    Oyumaru is a very impressive material, easy and simple to use. All this work was made in a few days because the green stuff needs to harden but was surprisingly straight forward and has encouraged me to continue pushing the limits of my hobby abilities in a new direction ^_^

    It will be a little stop in the proyect, but next time we will take a look at my Kitbashed Tankos :D

    Ps: shoutout to Corbus Belli, their new minis are sooo much easier to build than the old ones.

    finishdruze.jpg
  • Avatar Image seldon91932p said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    That’s a great looking result @kamaron. Well done. I don’t like combat heels much either but I don’t have your dedication to change things. I agree Corvus’s sculpts are getting so much easier to put together.

  • Avatar Image davehawes386p said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    Again fantastic detail on all the steps and the process involved, and great to see such a clean final result.

  • Avatar Image kamaron248p said 4 days, 17 hours ago:

    @seldon9 Thanks :D It’s somewhat laborious but not hard. You just need to overcome the scary part of ruining a great mini xD

    @davehawes Thanks again, I’m trying my best ^_^

    A big update is on the way, casting is a huge part of this proyect now xD
    Stay tuned!

  • Avatar Image kamaron248p said 3 days, 19 hours ago:

    5. Two Brawlers and one Bonus.

    The book is mine at last! I haven’t been able to read it all yet, but is a very nice book, with lots of lore and background. There is no extra info about the colour scheme of the Ikari Company apart of the main illustration, which is a shame but I shall work around it.

    As I preorder de book, it came with the exclusive Brawlers figure. A really nice one, but suffering the “Battle Heel Syndrome” yet again. But fear not, I was prepared and had casted an extra pair of soldier boots.

    Been more confortable with all the casting procedure, I tried to push myself with some bold conversions. This proyect is allowing me to take some Infinity miniatures that I had laying around getting no games at all, the reason been they where of the old “mini scale” or profiles not very fun to begin with and give them new purpose in this army.

    One of them was an Ariadna 112 I’ve decided to convert into another Brawler. They have Fireteam:Duo and Fireteam:Special with a Tanko so I was very interested in having a pair of them.
    So I casted an extra Brawler head to swap them.

    And the other head, the hooded one, what for? I hear you ask. Patience my friends, all shall be revealed xD

    5.1. Unheel the brawl!

    This need no further explanation, it’s the same modus operandi that the first ones ^_^

    5.2. Kitbash Brawler

    1. This is the base miniature, minus the head. The plan is not only to change the head, but to reposition the right arm and ad a second shotgun to make him look great!

    2. Cut the arm at shoulder height.

    3. Cut the forearm at the elbow and glue it in the new pose. Now looks amaizing!

    4. I did change the backpack a little, changing the fireman extinguisher bottle with some 40k pouches.

    And voilá one Brawler finished! The second shotgun was casted and I modeled the fingers again (I’d be weird if he has twoleft hands xD). The head did lost some detail in the casting process but I don’t mind, I can fix it in the painting stage.

    5.3. Brawlers primed and ready

    I’m super happy with how the “ex-112″ has come to look, he is so much better now.

    brawlers01.jpg
    brawlers02.jpg
    brawlers03.jpg
    brawlers04.jpg
    brawlers05.jpg
  • Avatar Image kamaron248p said 3 days, 19 hours ago:

    BONUS CONVERSION: from Badass to BADASSER (Wait a second…)

    When I was preparing the parts of the brawlers for casting, I decided to have some more fun and try a very bold conversion with a Pheasant Agent I have that I like a lot. He looks so cool and menacing, but I wanted something more, so I casted a Kempeitai hood!
    The idea was to mantain the helmet, and have the braid come from inside the hood. The cast was ok but I f***** somehow at gluing the head inside it so I had to sculpt some more hood around, and my green stuff was not been very helpful, I don’t know why. The end result is not as clean as I hoped for, but good enough.
    He may be fielded as a Pheasant Agent or an Authoriced Bounty Hunter, don’t know yet.

    pehasant01.jpg
    pehasant02.jpg
  • Avatar Image davehawes386p said 2 days, 7 hours ago:

    Hood conversion is very cool, certainly adds a nice extra edge to the model, and in the primed form their it sits in very naturally with the model.