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Resin Help (7 posts)

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  • Avatar Image poosh1405p said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Helloo, I was wondering if anyone could help me. I recently bought some resin samples (from Grendel Scotia, tank models) and have been doing some research on painting such materials. From what I understand, it is NOT advisable to prime (which I take to be undercoat… I am unsure what the difference is) it with a standard acrylic spray paint primer, but rather a “car primer”, Forgeworld itself state this (i.e, don’t use the GW undercoats). I was wondering if anyone had any detailed knowledge about this? Apparently normal primers are risky because the solvents aren’t strong enough to stick to the resin, which can be troublesome down the line.

    At the moment I am thinking of going to Halfords and getting their Grey Car Primer thing.

    Any help appreciated.

  • Avatar Image chibi2721p said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Car primers tend to be acrylic based, certainly the ones I have used are.
    I haven’t had any problems with it on any material tbh including resin.

    Bit odd this. Would suggest (as you probably already know) the release agent needs to be removed with a detergent before priming.

  • Avatar Image chibi2721p said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Car primers tend to be acrylic based, certainly the ones I have used are.
    I haven’t had any problems with it on any material tbh including resin.

    Bit odd this. Would suggest (as you probably already know) the release agent needs to be removed with a detergent before priming.

  • Avatar Image nogginthenog910p said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Most important thing with resin is a warm soapy water scrub of the parts to get the release agent off before doing anything.

    I use vallejo eurethane primer through an airbrush, and it works fine on everything including resin, but having said that, car primers do have a more aggressive ‘key’ than your standard acrylic ones, so using the halfords stuff can’t do any harm.

    In this weather, sit the can on top of a radiator or in a bowl of warm water or something for a couple of minutes before spraying, those halfords tins are a nightmare to use when cold.

  • Avatar Image anateus81p said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    When you get around to assembly, wear a facemask if your doing any sanding or file work… as the dust can be quite nasty, and you don’t want that in your lungs !

    I’ve used Vallejo through an airbrush, Army painters sprays and GW spray primers on resin, with no problems at all.. just wash the heck out of the bits first, as mentioned above, otherwise the paint won’t stick to the model and you’ll have all kinds of troubles !

    If any of the parts are bent, a quick dunk in boiling water will allow you to bend them back into shape (I usually hold into position and then dunk into cold water to help it set faster).

    Post some pics up when your done, we’d love to see the model !

  • Avatar Image poosh1405p said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    I swear everyone is using an Airbrush these days!

    Thanks for the advice, I have washed the crap out of it all with washing-up liquid in warm water. SOME of the models had some sort of mold on which amused me (one of the sealed boxes was from 2000!). I’ll post my attempts at these models once I get started.

    Getting so many conflicting comments, it gets confusing. The Bane Legions website plus a hidden PDF on Forgeworld both say use Car Primers.

    (I’ve started to wash plastic models and … perhaps this is entirely psychological, but I swear by the Emperor that plastic miniatures are easier to glue together after a washing-up liquid bath )

  • Avatar Image echilda46p said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Plastic can have release agent on it too. I am not at all suprised if you are seeing slightly better results after washing the plastic.