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This group is all about sharing great pics of beautiful models and other cool hobby stuff.

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Which Glue? (16 posts)

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  • Avatar Image lawnor1011p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    I’ve always used Loctite Precision Max superglue. it works well and on every material I’ve tried. However I’ve recently been having some issues. The last pot got so gummed up I couldn’t get the last quarter out of it. The current pot has to have its nozzle driller out every time I want to use it. Sometimes I get more glue out of these pots than I actually want.

    I’m near the end of my current pot so I’m thinking, what glue do people in the UK actually recommend? Is it that blue and yellow pot with the needle nozzle? I can’t remember what its called.

  • Avatar Image avernos1459p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    the blue and yellow sounds more like Revell poly cement, it won’t work on metals.
    I generally find loctite is the best, but I prefer to use the gel version, I find it easier to apply and it’s less likely to gum up

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  • Avatar Image lawnor1011p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Contacta Professional! Thats the stuff. Thats what Menne uses in his videos I think. I know I’ve seen it being used and sold in a few places. It doesn’t work on metal? That’s good to know up front. I work with all the materials.

  • Avatar Image avernos1459p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    @lawnor said:
    Contacta Professional! Thats the stuff. Thats what Menne uses in his videos I think. I know I’ve seen it being used and sold in a few places. It doesn’t work on metal? That’s good to know up front. I work with all the materials.

    yea that’s the one, it’s a plastic glue only, chemical welds the pieces so if you try it on metals you’ll get slightly sticky/greasy parts

  • Avatar Image lawnor1011p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    I can make it work. The very first models I bought were metal and I stuck them together with GW plastic cement! All it takes it patience, determination, bloody mindedness and ignorance!
    I won’t be doing that again though.

  • Avatar Image damon186p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    I’ve had the same problem with super glue drying/clogging in the tube or pot many times, doesn’t seem to matter if it’s cheapo or expensive brand or ‘specialist’ model makers stuff or how careful I am about cleaning the nozzle or storing it. So I’ve given up on ‘brands’ and buy multipacks of small tubes from places like Poundland or B&M discount shops etc.
    The glue seems to work just as well as anything I’ve used before and if I get a tube that clogs up before I’ve used it all I just bin it and start a new tube, saves me a load of frustration and time. Last week I found a pack of 10 x 3gram tubes for £2.50 at B&M, spent £5 and I have 20 tubes in stock so no stress about running out or fighting with blocked nozzles.
    Super glue works ok on plastic but can be a bit brittle for some bits like arms sticking out etc. For plastic to plastic I use dichloromethane that I buy from laboratory supplier on eBay, this is the base constituent for plastic glue that is sold in tubes or as liquid cement, it just has various amounts of fillers dissolved into it to make the glue thicker. I use an old paint brush to apply it. It works best if you hold the pieces together and apply the glue to the joint and let capillary action pull the glue into the joint. It does evaporate in the bottle unless you store out of direct light, use a brown glass bottle or wrap tinfoil around the bottle it comes in.

  • Avatar Image craigwrdouglas520p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    I’ve started using the smaller bottles of contacta as it’s roughly half the price and the nozzles do clog to the point where you can’t get them going with a needle over time.

    (for me this seems to be about half-way through with the normal bottles for me..)

  • Avatar Image mattadlard219p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Right glue right product,

    Revel Contacta Pro is a poly cement and chemically melts and bonds plastics but needs plastic to plastic bond. It has a precision application. It has a medium consistency.
    A bottle with a brush option for the liquid with brush application, but use a old or cheap brush.

    Superglue – Metal to metal, plastic or glueing PVC, though metal to metal is worth pinning and super glueing pins. Can also use fast set sprays and retardents with superglue.

    Epoxy two parts, good bond, but breaks down over time and becomes brittle.

    Store glue out of light, inc special bright painting lights as they cure the glue in the bottle.

    Superglue, I use Everbuild, liquid, medium, thick varieties, good range and works very well. Can get on Ebay and a good choice. Not expensive, but not cheap. Also get superglue de-bonder.

    Useful links
    http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/materials/learn-glue/
    http://www.adhesives.org/adhesives-sealants/adhesive-selection/types-of-glue-glue-tips

  • Avatar Image jamesevans140926p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    A number of modelling super glues that come in a plastic bottle have a pin inside the cap to prevent the glue drying in the nozzle. Zap is one maker, your local model hobby shop would carry at least one brand with a pin in its cap.

  • Avatar Image commodorerob1694p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    For me the Poundland packs of four for a £1 are what I use, they have capillary nozzels which actually help with both precision and I do not find that they clog very often, and at 25p a pot I don’t mind if they do clog.

    I also use Humbrol Liquid poly for plastics its awesome stuff :-)

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  • Avatar Image craigwrdouglas520p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    @damon said:
    I’ve had the same problem with super glue drying/clogging in the tube or pot many times, doesn’t seem to matter if it’s cheapo or expensive brand or ‘specialist’ model makers stuff or how careful I am about cleaning the nozzle or storing it. So I’ve given up on ‘brands’ and buy multipacks of small tubes from places like Poundland or B&M discount shops etc.
    The glue seems to work just as well as anything I’ve used before and if I get a tube that clogs up before I’ve used it all I just bin it and start a new tube, saves me a load of frustration and time. Last week I found a pack of 10 x 3gram tubes for £2.50 at B&M, spent £5 and I have 20 tubes in stock so no stress about running out or fighting with blocked nozzles.
    Super glue works ok on plastic but can be a bit brittle for some bits like arms sticking out etc. For plastic to plastic I use dichloromethane that I buy from laboratory supplier on eBay, this is the base constituent for plastic glue that is sold in tubes or as liquid cement, it just has various amounts of fillers dissolved into it to make the glue thicker. I use an old paint brush to apply it. It works best if you hold the pieces together and apply the glue to the joint and let capillary action pull the glue into the joint. It does evaporate in the bottle unless you store out of direct light, use a brown glass bottle or wrap tinfoil around the bottle it comes in.

    Just to add to the Dichloromethane point – don’t think it is widely used in plastic glues anymore think they use butan-2-one (sometimes called MEK) – Dichloromethane was banned from paintstripper by the eu in 2010.

    It has been shown to cause cancer in mice and is suspected of causing it in humans.

    With storage – it should be stored in a locked (ideally metal) cabinet of the type you might find in a lab which should solve the sunlight issue.

  • Avatar Image lawnor1011p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Thanks everyone. Given me some things to think about, but ultimately it appears that it doesn’t matter what make of glue I buy.

  • Avatar Image nakchak4290p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    2 ways to unclog contacta needles:
    the dangerous way is to just heat the end of the needle with a lighter, much like an inkjet printer a heated needle will eject the liquid from the heated end.
    the safe way is to buy a pack of fuse wire for 30p from a diy shop and use that
    the third way is to buy the rolls royce of plastic glue, tamiya extra thin as it has an integrated brush in the lid :D

    for superglue i just buy large bottles of industrial super glue from cpc, or expo tools if im in a model shop they do thick, medium and thin viscosities.

    bottom line use the right glue for the job, poly cement for styrene based plastics, super glue for everything else. the one exception is clear plastic, use pva for that to avoid frosting…

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  • Avatar Image ultramarine4046p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Re Glues:

    Plastics: Revell Contacta Professional
    Resin & Metals: BSI or ZAP Super Glue

    To keep Super Glue fresh – place opened bottles inside a glass bottle, and then store glass bottle in refrigerator. Kept cool super glue does not go off or harden.

    Knowledge is Power!
  • Avatar Image lightsout1985464p said 5 months, 3 weeks ago:

    My I’ve been using the Gorilla Glue super glue and so far, very pleased with it.