Painting an Aquan Stingray Class Destroyer
April 9, 2013 by elromanozo
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Thats such a simple yet effective way to paint ships. What I tend to do is after the base coat I grab the dry brush and get it over with. I must admit that I don’t think wash when doing most models unless its a shade I’m after. It doesn’t seem hard and has good results.
One thing I have noticed when I did use washes that are mixes of paint and water. Some times I get the wash that will dry away from the crevasses and it will look like a water stain. It’s odd in that I would have thought the paint would go into the lower regions instead of the higher areas. Do you know what could be causing this and any solutions?
Thanks a lot ! Teaching new tricks is what I’m here for…
If you’re talking about paint that doesn’t “want” to go into creases, you’ve really got to push it in with your brush tip. It usually works. The paint simply isn’t surfactant enough, and maybe your creases aren’t primed or are a little dirty (it’s possible)… Sometimes, you’ve got to paint the detail directly with your priming colour, to make sure it’s covered, before washing. Alternately, some flow-aid or medium can help make it more surfactant, but directly pushing the details in is always good. I don’t think I’ve ever seen paint accumulate on a surface after having been pushed into a crease.
Not putting too much paint on your brush, and tightly controling dilution so as not to make the mix too thin, that helps A LOT. That way, the paint simply doesn’t pool, and dries almost as you apply it, for glazes. It’s tricky, it’s a learning curve… but you’ve got to remember not to have drops of paint on your brush and only to use the tip (a third, maybe half of the tuft, tops). However, I would understand if you simply can’t be bothered with tightly controlled glazes. It’s not what i’ve demonstrated in this tutorial ! 😉
If you’re talking about paint that dries too quickly and makes stains like little halos (the pigment accumulates on the edge of the stains, then you get a very distinct perimeter and a paler spot in the center, it’s basic physics), your only hope is not to let it dry too quickly (with some flow-aid or medium, but that can have unforseen effects, such as making your paint too flowy or too slow to dry) or, more simply, working quicker, or doing one complete surface at a time, hopefully in a single stroke. You may have noticed that I do the latter in my tutorials.
I hope I’ve answered the question ! If it’s another issue, please specify a little more…
Happy painting !
It fits the 3rd description you gave. It looks like a halo as the paint looks like its drying at the edge of where the application stops. By the time the rest is dry I think all the pigment has been pulled to the drying edge giving the centre area less. I’ll give your tips a try as it looks like a mixture of the above that you mentioned.
I thought as much…
There’s no real “trick” to it, then, it’s all a matter of not letting paint dry in the middle of a surface. To that end, the only way is to work more quickly than the paint dries (whether you add flow-aid or actually wrok quicker with your brush) or to paint each surface portion individually with one brush stroke, or as little brush strokes as possible. Never paint something else, thinking you’ll come back to it later, just do things in order ! For large surfaces, cheat : paint one stroke, and end the stroke “pushing” the paint in the shadows or at the junction with another surface (examples of shadows and junctions : the fold of a cape or cloth, the end of the surface, the slight crease between armor plates, the crease of a muscle, etc.)
Those stains are hellish to get rid of, as they’re very saturated in pigments (meaning they’re very opaque) and often constitute a very distinctive line that doesn’t correspond to any detail of the miniature (so it’s very noticeable). It usually takes several coats of another colour (usually the base colour or an intermediary tone, preferably less dilute and more covering) to cover them.
Stains happen, sometimes, to the best of us… The main goal is to avoid making them in the first place, and never put yourself in the situation of having to make them (almost never painting a flat surface in multiple strokes, for example)
I hope it helps…
i will say this was a fun edit, and the tips in it work really well my only side not it that i think you need to use Romains three tone base coating technique to pull it off i think he did a video on it so ill see if i can hunt out the link later.
BoW Justin
You can do it without pre-shading, but it’ll be a little more uniform… Unless you use wet blending for the basecoat, or very careful brushing as highlights. Either way, you’ve got to be more precise, ergo more experienced.
Hi Romain!
Great tutorial, as usual! I had been ogling the FirArm models in the shop and I think I may try some now. Your tutorials are terrible for my finances…
Do you have any experience with the Alclad metal paints?
Rgds
Fernando