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Painting Corroded Rhino Armour
May 8, 2012 by elromanozo
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Hi Roman! Super your video, it toggles the effects of rust with those pigments! But there comes a question: do you have an army of any game? If so, it could be really nice that you show us your creations one day! And if you have no army, to which balance your heart the most?
You sound like Yoda 🙂 I wanted to ask Romain these questions too.
Thank you everyone for the kind words… et merci @onehly49 !
I don’t play much, and I stopped playing the GW games a while ago… Way back when it was still 4th edition Warhammer Fantasy, I had some dwarves.
I play Infinity (nomads, but I love the look of teh Yu Jing) and I love it. I also favor Warmachine/Hordes and I collect the Circle faction minis.
I hope that answers your questions !
BoW Romain
Another awesome tutorial Romain, shame I bought a load of pigments before seeing this 🙂 ah well they’ll still come in handy no doubt!
They most certainly will !
@elromanazo Nice tutorial, two questions:
1. Would you use this blue priming method for Cygnar models?
2. How would you do this on heavily moving stuff like a Warjack? Specially the rust for dripping/water accumulation.
Hello @wargamelester… Thanks !
1) Most definitely !
2) Figure out what position your warjack/dreadnought is in when “at ease”, and do the corrosion dripping thing as if it had dripped in that direction. Moisture also accumulates in the creases, so you’re pretty safe doing rust in selected recesses, wherever they are.
Less corrosion is probably in order on Cygnar and Menoth warjacks : Menoth take great care about being whiter than white, and Cygnar always have the newest warjack technology.
I hope this helps,
BoW Romain
Thats a great tip on something I’ve been working on for some time with mixed results.
One question would be what would you do to make it look like dust kick up from dry arid roads onto a tank?
I’ll do a tutorial on this one day…
I use very careful dry brushing, or better yet clear khaki or brown or grey pigments.
By any chance can you do a video in the future on what pigments are and how to use them? I think meny just like me would use them if we had a bit if info on them.
I know, I know… It’s in the works ! 🙂
You’re not the first one to point that out.
So far, I’ve been focusing on painting with a brush, because (let’s not deny it) that’s the bread and butter of any hobbyist, and paint is teh basic product everyone has…
Still, many people have been requesting this, so it’ll definitely get done !
Stay tuned…
BoW Romain
For larger vehicles and panels I recommend spraying the model with a gloss varnish after the base color is down. This will help break the surface tension when applying the wash and give it a natural flow.
Yes, it’s also better for applying pigments.
thanks for the tip @wildchevy
I certainly have plenty of spare Rhino doors to practice on
Thanks Romain great tutorial
That tank needs servicing!
That door looks excellent, the rain streaking is awesome.
I thought I was watching the Wotwots when you said spotty wotty dotty. They’re are artists as well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VujjtKYUEiA
Very nice tutorial Romain, I’m in the midle of painting a Land Raider, I might give it a shot.
By the way, one question: the main colour for my chapter is red, would you recommend any changes in color for the weathering? I feel Hull Red migth not give enough contrast…
Thank you for yur interest, @killiandoyle !
Your vivid red should contrast with orange just fine, as long as the red is vivid and the orange is tarnished… Shade the orange with something more brown, perhaps, and use more black if it’s not enough.
On red, battle damage should also do quite well… Stay tuned for that tutorial !
BoW Romain
Very interesting and usefull tutorial. I’ll 100% use it)
Just had an Email from Maelstrom Games, Vallejo are putting there prices up to £2 10. So now only just 20p cheaper than GWs.
Still cheaper but less attractive of course.
You’re forgetting to mention that you get Vallejo paints in convenient drop bottles (the paint doesn’t dry, you control the quantity…) and that they still contain about 5ml more than the Citadel pots. That’s about 40% more paint.
I’m not even talking about quality… See my reviews for that.
BoW Romain
Im not slagging them off, I use all different types of brands so I aint botherd if they rise the prices, after all what hobby is cheap really. I was just simply passing on the info I recieved today in my inbox.
Will say though drop bottles can be a pain, was painting some orks today and my Bonewhite when sploge all over my palate! Some random gunk (looked like a dead fly actually) had blocked the nozzle!
Eeek !
It has happened to me a few times… No dead bugs, though. A needle should sort you out.
I still have to original boxed set of GW paints, the ones with the golden daemon on the front of the boxes, they’re the only ones of gw paints that havent dried out