3 Colours Up: Painting An ALEPH Skin Tone – Part One
January 28, 2016 by elromanozo
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26 Comments on "3 Colours Up: Painting An ALEPH Skin Tone – Part One"
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a force i haven’t got lol
but after your great job and only on skin, got me thinking.
the info you give out while working is really helpful, thank you
lovely job
Thanks a lot ! I try… 😉
Epic shirt, @elromanozo . 😀
Great tutorial as always. I think it would also make a great skintone for a gene stealer cult.
Thank you for the kind words… Yes, this si perfect for genestealers, or dark elves, vampires… The Legion of Everblight, or possibly Skorne, and of course that evil Macrocosm faction !
very very subtle, could hardly see it until you applied the vallejo white, then it became more apparent, quite nice , thanks for another goody Romain.
It’s beautiful! Just as I’m trying to get started on painting up my Aleph too, so perfect timing 😉
a nice start the figure itself looks brill as well romain.
Your painting tutorials are a great resource on here. This one may not be something I’m needing at this moment but I do remember them and find myself going back and referring to your old tutorials a lot.
My first reaction to the colour choices was “???” – but as usual how you use them as washes and light coats creates a great effect.
Which white primer do you use? One definitely needs a very fine one for these minis compared to some which can easily ‘chalk-up’ the details.
@ What’s in part 2 – or is this posting mis-labelled?
Thank you ! 🙂
I don’t know why people sort of poo-poo certain colours… Well, no, I know exactly why. Many male painters don’t want to use magenta, pink and light purple or pastel colours because they fear it’ll look girly. Well, there’s no reason for that : if these colours weren’t visible, the world would look extremely different ! As usual, the ket here is observation. If you see that there’s a certain colour in nature or in what you want to achieve, you have to use that colour, even if it isn’t “manly”… and when you truly analyze natural tones, you find in them a variety that is completely unsuspected.
Also, I use Citadel white primer. The old one is whiter, but the new one is more porous… they’re both very good, and none of them block any details if used correctly (which is mercifully easy). I have never encountered a bad primer in my life, except for the times where I used paint that wasn’t made to be a miniature primer (car paint, regular spray paint, etc.) so I don’t know what you mean… chalking up details is something that’s done only when the spray is improperly used, or when you’re using inappropriate paint.
It wasn’t the ‘manliness’ or otherwise – simply they just don’t seem to be appropriate at first for a skin tone! Having said that, an artist friend of mine recently showed me how he starts pastel stick skin tones by laying down a layer of dark green!
My experience with Citadel white primer is probably tainted by the fact that the times I used to use it I had to go outside. There’s all kinds of environmental issues (moist air, hot dry air) that can cause unwanted effects.
Another great video. Any idea what happen the African skin tone part 2?
@Dignity , any ideas ?
found it: http://www.beastsofwar.com/backstage/skin-tone-tutorials-paint-african-skin-part-2/
Thank you so much I spent ages trying to find that!!
Justin, you’re a saint ! 🙂
Great tutorial with a great commentary from the master himself 🙂 I need to try paint more glazes myself since I see they are really useful! Thanks @elromanozo
the initial effects were so subtle it was hard to see what you were doing.
The end result was very interesting and I’m sure it will look even better once the rest of the figure is painted in a colour that contrasts the cyborg skin.
It really shows how subtle a colour like pink can be when used more like a wash.
Random idea: Is it ok to list the paints used in the article text for future articles? Due to my hearing issue, I kept thinking you were saying “Dactan” instead of Deck Tan for one of the paint shades, and so it took a bit of sleuthing to work out which shade you meant.
On a different note, I was looking to see if vallejo do a pearlescent white, but found people talking about using the metal medium for pearlescent effects. Would a metal medium/white mix work in this case?
Sorry to hear about your hearing issues… I don’t remember the exact list of paints I used, and I don’t think I’m here to give you exact recipes; I rather like to think I’m teaching you how to “cook”, so to speak.
The Vallejo catalog is enormous, and I often make do with what I have at hand. If you don’t have the same nuance in the same range, you can easily replace it by any colour that looks close to it and strikes your fancy… or even mix a bit.
However, I also know that when I see a colour on a miniature that’s exactlky what I’m looking for, or a tone that I’d like to experiment with, I do like to know what colours were involved… That’s also how one progresses ! 🙂
So, for the sake of clarity… For such a skin tone, I would use the following colours :
— Deck Tan from Vallejo (sort of a greyish Ivory, really… you can use Ivory, or Khaki and white. For something warmer and more porcelain-like, you could evne use Ice Yellow)
— Carnal Pink (P3), easily replaced by Squid Pink (Vallejo) and some white. Back in the day, Citadel used to call this “titillating pink”, for painting horrors. You could very well use some Magenta (or “murderous magenta” from P3) and add some white to it. Alternately, “Old Rose” from Vallejo is a very interesting tone, warmer, perhaps richer, and very english.
— Alien purple (Warpaints) or Purple (Vallejo), or even Violet Red (Vallejo)… Daemonette Hide (Citadel) is also very good for that sort of thing. What you’re looking for is lavender, really.
— If you need something lighter, go to Ivory, then white.
— If you need something darker, go to Oxford Blue, Violet blue or Royal Blue, or even Sombre Grey (all Vallejo)… but I didn’t have to.
Do not hesitate to experiment with weird tones that look counterintuitive ! 🙂
Thanks for the advice. For the moment I’m just buying colours as I need them, but as I get back into painting more I’ll probably start experimenting more too 😉
My favorite colours are slightly broken tones that people don’t expect on a miniature…
Trollblood base (P3), Arcane Blue (P3), Coal Black (P3), Greatcoat Grey (P3), Jade Green (Vallejo), Hull Red (Vallejo), Oxford Blue (Vallejo), Ice Yellow (Vallejo), Deck Tan (Vallejo), Ivory (Vallejo), Old Rose (Vallejo), Periscopes (Vallejo), Alien purple (Warpaints), and these days pretty much everything from the Scale75 range… I’m also very fond of Khador Red Base (P3), Averland Sunset (Citadel), and metals from the P3 range and from the Vallejo Air ranges. But all this is subject to change !
Scale75 are the only ones to make pearlescent paints (save for Pebeo and the like, who make them for arts and crafts, not miniatures), and, while novel and useful, you may not find yourself using them that much (unless you have a project that specifically require them, such as… oh, I don’t know… a Retribution of Scyrah force with pearlescent armor).
Remember everything is miscible, and you’re not married to a brand. Have fun ! 🙂
Phenominal video
Wow ! I’m glad you liked it… I’ve got some lovely compliments in my time here, but I’ve never quite been qualified as “Phenomenal” before ! 🙂