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Airbrush inbound – let's talk paints.

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This topic contains 20 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by  timchubb 1 week, 1 day ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
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  • #1521527

    sundancer
    21367xp
    CoG Member

    So yesterday (May 1st) I ordered an airbrush, a compressor and an airbrushbooth (to suck away those bad fumes and stuff). The kit I ordered comes with a bottle of Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner so I have everything to paint and clean my new kit…

    …except paints. Well I do have paints, old Citadel Colour, some current GW paints, Vallejo Model Colour, two acrylic artists inks and a few Army Painter bottles. All over the place. So here’s the question: what paint do I get or do I simply get myself some airbrush thinner and thin my existing paints? I’ve read some not so long time ago that if you use brand X as colour brand X is your best choice as a cleaner because it’s tailored to that brand.

    My first impulse would be to get Vallejo thinner and for the time being limit myself to my Vallejo colours for the airbrush.

    Also base coating with an airbrush. Just thin a white or black and off I go or are there some traps to look out for? Any advise is greatly appreciated.

    #1521534

    avernos
    Keymaster
    17660xp

    water works

    #1521587

    zorg
    11875xp
    CoG Member

    As @avernos says practise with just water playing with the settings and seeing how adjustments change the fan and coverage an in no time you will be preaching about how good spray guns are. dont forget thin coats are better than runs.

    #1521590

    stubbybrush
    Participant
    260xp

    2nd try….

    All of the above, plus give this a look……….

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elF3Ml6qmVs

    #1521624

    orlandothetechnicoloured
    Participant
    2605xp

    Am I too late to say practice with water?

    spray onto a sheet of paper/newspaper rather than a mini until you get comfortable with things

    #1521685

    sundancer
    21367xp
    CoG Member

    So water and paper first. Right.

    And on a sidenote: I totally forgot that I got a friend of mine to share his Warhammer Conquest subscription with me. I get to keep all the terrain and the first set of terrain just came through in the German channels (we’re a bit behind). So water first, then 40k containers and boxes… at least those I don’t care about the actual colour scheme because it’s terrain 😉

    #1521687

    Watering down paint is a good idea as its the same thing that you’d do with regular brushwork. For me I go with Vallejo Flow Improver and have been happy with results over their paint thinner. The former doesn’t end up clogging like the latter does when put in the airbrush.

    As far as brands I’d say look Vallejo Air if you wanted directly engineered paint but the info floating around these boards, as well as some Golden Button winners, has been that inks really work. A basic black paint and then a white ink zenithal works awesome. Be sure to gloss coat over the primer step so the colors stay true in value. Trust me on making the mistake of not doing that. It might give you good results for mixing on the fly is you were to put in a retarder and then spray in subtle highlights/shading.

    While I’m not keen on the presentation in the by Next Level Painting for the persona but he’s got good info. Luke on the other hand is down to earth and gives even more to try and save some money. Here’s my contribution for what has helped me.

    #1521700

    timchubb
    Keymaster
    2087xp

    Food colouring works well for practice to

    If you want to combine snacking with practice try using ready made white cake icing as a practice board, can get good at sunbursts and get a sugar rush….

    #1526594

    sundancer
    21367xp
    CoG Member

    Another (maybe stupid) question on that subject: Is it necessary to use Airbrush Primer for priming models or can priming be done with regular paint? Where are the differences and advantages? I tried to find an answer online but turned out blank.

    #1526597

    avernos
    Keymaster
    17660xp

    primers are designed to give a good key and surface for other paints to adhere to. If you plan on priming with an airbrush use a specific primer and remember unlike spray cans you generally need to leave them 24 hours to fully cure.

    #1526748

    m30wm1x
    1323xp
    CoG Member

    Aye, primer is just good sticky paint to get a starting layer for more paint to stick to. Airbrush primer is just a flowwy primer so you can, theoretically, use it straight from the bottle. Vallejo does good ones either their airbrush or mecha range work well but the 2nd half of the bottle will want thinning a bit as you get through it.

    You can use a brush on primer if you thin it a bit, I use a mix of 2pt water : 1pt vallejo airbrush cleaner for thinning everthing in the airbrush, and have a practice spray. DON’T just have the 1st layer on a model be an airbrushed NON-primer as it’s just too thin and not stuck well, it’ll chip and flake. There’s also no reason why if you have a favourite rattle can primer you don’t just prime with that and airbrush the layers.

    #1526791

    guillotine
    11836xp
    CoG Member

    Use airbrush primer. Simply because they are really good primers. Vallejo Surface Primer, Stynylrez, Mig (Surface and One-shot), everything I’ve used produces excellent coat for painting and they level beautifully. Like Gerry wrote, it’s a good idea to leave them to properly dry for 24 hours. Primers, like most paints through airbrush are touch dry in few minutes but take longer to fully cure. If you compare a model primed 15mins ago to one primed yesterday you’ll see, feel and smell the difference, esp. with black.

    #1529097

    sundancer
    21367xp
    CoG Member

    Well I’m happy to report that the first run went rather well even with some not expected behaviour… but that will be part of a project later on 😉  Now to wait 24h

    #1529147

    sundancer
    21367xp
    CoG Member

    So I build this:

    IMG_20200504_163912602

    Took it here:

    IMG_20200506_172639581

    Did this:

    And this came out:

    IMG_20200521_134456221IMG_20200521_134447682IMG_20200521_134507834IMG_20200521_140416899

    Not to shabby I think. (Ignore the bad build quality of the barrel. I’ve got the second container set from the 40k Conquest magazine from a friend. My barrels are still not build.)

    • This reply was modified 1 week, 3 days ago by  sundancer.
    #1529170

    Very well done pieces. Priming is forgiving and with the right layers are never too thick to obscure details.

    Now that you’re doing pieces like this and have stuff to weather here’s some mote info.

     

     

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