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Painting Toy Flintlock Pistols - A Nice Side Project :)

Painting Toy Flintlock Pistols - A Nice Side Project :)

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Project Entry by lloyd

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Couldn't Pass Up Grabbing These Toy Flintlock Pistols

Tutoring 6
Skill 2
Idea 13
6 Comments

Found these toy Flintlock Pistols/Blunderbuss Pistols in Poundland in the UK (it’s a discount shop). After having the guys from Firelock Games in the studio for a week of Blood & Plunder I couldn’t pass these up for the cost of £2.

Going to fill the gaps etc. and maybe make a few changes before doing a re-paint.Going to fill the gaps etc. and maybe make a few changes before doing a re-paint.

No plans for these to be part of a costume but I think they could look great on a shelf and should be a fun side project for a break from mini painting from time to time 🙂

Time For Some Reference and Inspiration

I’m not particular about historical accuracy, after all I got these in a pound shop but I’ve done an image search for reference images to get an idea of how the paint job should look and to see if there’s anything I want to change.

Should I Cut The Ends Off?

Based on the images above I was thinking about cutting the ends off the barrels and I’m guessing that will change theses Blunderbuss Pistols into just pistols.

I think cutting them down at the first bevel will be the best place and this will also open the ends up.

Here's where I'm thinking of cutting back to.Here's where I'm thinking of cutting back to.

Pearls of Wisdom are Welcome ;)

As I haven’t done a project like this before I’d appreciate any pointers the community can throw my way by just dropping me comments here 🙂

In particular stuff like:

  • Best way to fill the gaps and screw holes
  • Painting the main body to look like wood

Cheers in advance for any help.

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drtortenkopf
Member
2765xp

I did something similar with a nerf gun a while back. For the screw holes green stuff is the obvious and easy choice. Also most of the guns in your reference pictures have at least slightly widening barrels. I recommend cutting somewhere half way between the bevels and the orange stopper and then modeling a lip onto the end with green stuff or to file the cuts smooth before painting.

dugthefug1644
Member
9836xp

Never done a project like this, but keep the flared barrel I think. Not sure if your bluetac and baking powder green stuff magic, that you used on a hobby night live on a tree, would be a cheap or effective option rather than regular green stuff?

oriskany
Member
37739xp

Great idea for a project, @lloyd – As far as cutting off the end of the barrels, I’m not sure.

I guess it depends on how wide the barrels are. The caliber (INSIDE diameter of the barrel) of flintlock pistols was never very standardized, but ranged between about 0.45 and 0.65 inches. Originally being “blunderbuss” pistols these might be a little wider, I don’t know.

Looks like you have a few choices to go for here …

Dueling pistols: These could pass for a set of dueling pistols, IF you cut the whole flared end off the barrels as you suggest. Dueling pistols were usually quite ornate, had straight barrels (no flaring) and usually rifled inside of the barrel. I doubt the flintlocks are currently rifled. Also, they tended to be on the smaller end of the caliber measurements mentioned earlier.

“Travel” pistols or “Holster pistols” or Officer Sidearms are more standard. They might be slightly flared on the end, but not the full extent as they are now. I’ve seen plenty of military officer sidearms that weren’t flared at all, they’re usually on the larger end of the caliber range and smoothbore along the inside of the barrel.

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