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40k Space Wolves & Daemons Boot Sale Bargain – Help Lawnor identify and fix please (Spring Cleaning)

40k Space Wolves & Daemons Boot Sale Bargain – Help Lawnor identify and fix please (Spring Cleaning)

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Project Blog by lawnor

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About the Project

I was helping my karate club run a stand at a school fete that had a boot sale of 6 cars. While handing out leaflets at the boot sale I saw a box and some drawers with some GW in. I asked how much and they said £10. I assumed per tank, but then thay said, "for the lot, not just the box. You can tell we don't want to take it home again". I don't play 40K and don't know too much about it, but how could I say no? I don't know what all of this is, and I don't know what parts are mising. Please help me return this to fighting shape.

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Soul Grinder - Metals

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After everything was undercoated with black, the bulk of the Iron was painted with P3 Pig Iron.  The spine was painted with Vallejo Model Air 71.064 Chrome, and the feet and pistons were painted with Mission Models MMM-002 Cold Rolled Steel, for a darker iron.After everything was undercoated with black, the bulk of the Iron was painted with P3 Pig Iron. The spine was painted with Vallejo Model Air 71.064 Chrome, and the feet and pistons were painted with Mission Models MMM-002 Cold Rolled Steel, for a darker iron.
All the iron and steel was then washed with GW Nuln OilAll the iron and steel was then washed with GW Nuln Oil
The Spine was highlighted with more chrome, and everything else was highlighted with P3 Cold Steel (TBC)The Spine was highlighted with more chrome, and everything else was highlighted with P3 Cold Steel (TBC)
The bronze was then painted using the same methods as for the Bloodthirster (TBC)The bronze was then painted using the same methods as for the Bloodthirster (TBC)
The teeth were then painted using the same methods as for the Bloodthirster (TBC)The teeth were then painted using the same methods as for the Bloodthirster (TBC)

Soul Grinder - Beginning with the Warp Sword, Flesh, Horns, Eyes and Black Panels

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The model was zenithally primed and then everything except the blade was masked off using silly putty and a plastic bagThe model was zenithally primed and then everything except the blade was masked off using silly putty and a plastic bag
The blade was then airbrushed with Turbo Dork Blue Raspberry colour shift paint.  I tried applying this over the preshade as some of their colourshifts react differently with black or white undercoats.  Blue Raspberry does not show up over white so I re-based it with black gloss before applying a few thin coats.  I tried to apply more coats towards the end of the blade to give it a gradient.  I may have done too many coats over it all though.The blade was then airbrushed with Turbo Dork Blue Raspberry colour shift paint. I tried applying this over the preshade as some of their colourshifts react differently with black or white undercoats. Blue Raspberry does not show up over white so I re-based it with black gloss before applying a few thin coats. I tried to apply more coats towards the end of the blade to give it a gradient. I may have done too many coats over it all though.
After leaving it overnight to dry (and so I could sleep and go to work), the blade was carefully masked off with Silly Putty.  Please note the stylish, high end Airbrushing Hood.  Nothing but the finest for me!After leaving it overnight to dry (and so I could sleep and go to work), the blade was carefully masked off with Silly Putty. Please note the stylish, high end Airbrushing Hood. Nothing but the finest for me!
The Soul Grinder was then airbrushed and washed the same as the Bloodthirster, except I skipped the Gory Red paint as I never liked that colour for this work.The Soul Grinder was then airbrushed and washed the same as the Bloodthirster, except I skipped the Gory Red paint as I never liked that colour for this work.
I didn't have enough time to do any more to the Soul Grinder, but had too much time to call it a night so I also based and washed the flesh on my Daemon prince at the same time.I didn't have enough time to do any more to the Soul Grinder, but had too much time to call it a night so I also based and washed the flesh on my Daemon prince at the same time.
I've got the flesh as far as finishing with the Nipple Pink Shade following the same scheme as below.  He looks good in my hand, but somehow rather rubbish in the photo.  I hate when that happens.I've got the flesh as far as finishing with the Nipple Pink Shade following the same scheme as below. He looks good in my hand, but somehow rather rubbish in the photo. I hate when that happens.
I've now taken the flesh tones to the same stage I left the Bloodthirster.  I think in many ways I've done a better job, but the highest highlights are looking near white, and the boundaries between layers show up well under camera and up close.  I think I am going to mix up a glaze from P3 Red Ink and apply a few layers over everything except the recesses to try to unify all the layers.  Lets see if I regret it.I've now taken the flesh tones to the same stage I left the Bloodthirster. I think in many ways I've done a better job, but the highest highlights are looking near white, and the boundaries between layers show up well under camera and up close. I think I am going to mix up a glaze from P3 Red Ink and apply a few layers over everything except the recesses to try to unify all the layers. Lets see if I regret it.
It has now had a few glazes of P3 Red Ink.  I also cleaned up some of the recesses with a little GW Carroburg Crimson.  I then mat varnished it because without a base I am going to be handling this all the time which will wear off paint.  The varnish should also help bring the colours together a little.It has now had a few glazes of P3 Red Ink. I also cleaned up some of the recesses with a little GW Carroburg Crimson. I then mat varnished it because without a base I am going to be handling this all the time which will wear off paint. The varnish should also help bring the colours together a little.
The horns and eyes were painted the same as before.  Pretty much everything else needs a black undercoat now.The horns and eyes were painted the same as before. Pretty much everything else needs a black undercoat now.
After spending what felt like years undercoating everything black, the black panels were base coated with Revell Aqua Colour Tar Black.  I tried to follow the same scheme as with the Bloodthirsters black arounr, but the transitions seemed too extreme on the flat angular panels.  I based with Tar Black, then added a little Gunship Grey to the Tar Black to highlight where needed.  I then edge highlighted with Gunship Grey.  Finally I lightly washed with GW Nuln Oil.After spending what felt like years undercoating everything black, the black panels were base coated with Revell Aqua Colour Tar Black. I tried to follow the same scheme as with the Bloodthirsters black arounr, but the transitions seemed too extreme on the flat angular panels. I based with Tar Black, then added a little Gunship Grey to the Tar Black to highlight where needed. I then edge highlighted with Gunship Grey. Finally I lightly washed with GW Nuln Oil.

The Finished Bloodthirster

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And here she is all done and finished.  As I’ve said elsewhere the wings got in the way of everything.  If I was building another I would paint them and the whip separately if possible.  I could have done a better job that way.

Another problem I have just discovered is that the whip dips down below the base in to the table.  Any time it rests on a surface the whip is being bent upwards.  I wish I had noticed this before decorating the base and not after gluing her on to it, as I would have built up the ground more to raise her up.

She’s not my finest work, but ultimately I am happy enough with her.  The sculpt wasn’t the finest (how old is it anyway?), one wing was broken and missing a chunk, and I never had anywhere to rest my hands so never had any real brush control and still she came out ok.  I hope to learn from this when I paint my next Khorne Daemon.

The Finished Bloodthirster
The Finished Bloodthirster
The Finished Bloodthirster
The Finished Bloodthirster
And here we have the wing that I had to resculpt one of the talons for.  Would you notice if I didn't tell you?  I know its not perfect.And here we have the wing that I had to resculpt one of the talons for. Would you notice if I didn't tell you? I know its not perfect.

Daemon Base Painting

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The base was primed black and then painted with P3 Great Coat Grey.  This will be based on the book, The base was primed black and then painted with P3 Great Coat Grey. This will be based on the book, "Warhammer: Age of Sigmar: Painting Guide" p120.
Then I mixed up some GW Nuln Oil with water and applied this in patches over the base, focusing on areas that would have more shadow.  Once dry, more was then applied evenly all over the base, with the jppe that the hard edges around the first wash would be less clearly defined but some areas would still be darker than others.Then I mixed up some GW Nuln Oil with water and applied this in patches over the base, focusing on areas that would have more shadow. Once dry, more was then applied evenly all over the base, with the jppe that the hard edges around the first wash would be less clearly defined but some areas would still be darker than others.
It was given a drybrush of GW Karak Stone and then GW Screaming Skull.  The edges were then reclaimed with black.It was given a drybrush of GW Karak Stone and then GW Screaming Skull. The edges were then reclaimed with black.
The shards were base coated black, and then the upper half of each surface was painted with a thinned mix of P3 Coal Black and P3 Thamar BlackThe shards were base coated black, and then the upper half of each surface was painted with a thinned mix of P3 Coal Black and P3 Thamar Black
Add some P3 Menoth White Base to the previous colours.  Using a drybrush you have removed every bit of paint from that you can, drybrush the shards in the directiin light would hit them.  Clip the hard edges on the upper parts of the undersides too.Add some P3 Menoth White Base to the previous colours. Using a drybrush you have removed every bit of paint from that you can, drybrush the shards in the directiin light would hit them. Clip the hard edges on the upper parts of the undersides too.
Drybrush with a mix of Coal Black and Menoth White Base, on just the top sides on the shardsDrybrush with a mix of Coal Black and Menoth White Base, on just the top sides on the shards
Coal Black was mixed with P3 Menthoh White Highlight and drybrushed to just the tips and the 1/3rd-ish of each shard leading up to the tip. Army Painter Highland Tufts were later added to the base.Coal Black was mixed with P3 Menthoh White Highlight and drybrushed to just the tips and the 1/3rd-ish of each shard leading up to the tip. Army Painter Highland Tufts were later added to the base.

Leather, Steel, Eyes, and Skulls

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The whip and the belt were undercoated with Scalecolour Black Leather SC-32, and then given an even base coat of 50/50 Black Leather and ScaleColour Red Leather SC-30The whip and the belt were undercoated with Scalecolour Black Leather SC-32, and then given an even base coat of 50/50 Black Leather and ScaleColour Red Leather SC-30
Everything but the recesses was painted with a 1:2 Black leather:Red Leather mix, and then the highlighting was started with pure Red LeatherEverything but the recesses was painted with a 1:2 Black leather:Red Leather mix, and then the highlighting was started with pure Red Leather
2:1 Red Leather and ScaleColour Orange Leather SC-28 were used to further highlight, covering less and less surface each time2:1 Red Leather and ScaleColour Orange Leather SC-28 were used to further highlight, covering less and less surface each time
Next layer was 2:1 Orange Leather: Red leather.  Then edge highlights were applied with 2:1 Orange Leather:VMC 70.918 Ivory, with final glints of 1: Orange leather:IvoryNext layer was 2:1 Orange Leather: Red leather. Then edge highlights were applied with 2:1 Orange Leather:VMC 70.918 Ivory, with final glints of 1: Orange leather:Ivory
The steel was base coated with P3 Pig Iron.  The eyes were based with P3 Ember Orange, and then highlighted with P3 Heartfire.  All the steel was then washed with GW Nuln Oil.The steel was base coated with P3 Pig Iron. The eyes were based with P3 Ember Orange, and then highlighted with P3 Heartfire. All the steel was then washed with GW Nuln Oil.
Finally, it was highlighted with P3 Cold SteelFinally, it was highlighted with P3 Cold Steel
The skulls were undercoated with white primer as bone tends to not have the best coverage.  They were then given a solid coat of P3 Jack Bone and washed with GW Seraphim Sepia.The skulls were undercoated with white primer as bone tends to not have the best coverage. They were then given a solid coat of P3 Jack Bone and washed with GW Seraphim Sepia.
The bone was then drybrushed with P3 Menoth White Base.The bone was then drybrushed with P3 Menoth White Base.

Khorne Black Armour, Gold Trim, Teeth, Horns, Hair and Claws

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The armour was base coated with Revell Aqua Color 36106 Tar Black, and then highlighted with a mix of Tar Black and 36174 Gunship Grey, applied as normal in some areas, but as stippling over open surfaces that would catch the light.  The highlights were further enhanced with a 1:2 mix before I remembered to take pictures, which don't really show what I've been doing unfortunately.The armour was base coated with Revell Aqua Color 36106 Tar Black, and then highlighted with a mix of Tar Black and 36174 Gunship Grey, applied as normal in some areas, but as stippling over open surfaces that would catch the light. The highlights were further enhanced with a 1:2 mix before I remembered to take pictures, which don't really show what I've been doing unfortunately.
Next highlight was pure Gunship Grey, and then that was mixed with 36176 Light Grey, and finally pure Light GreyNext highlight was pure Gunship Grey, and then that was mixed with 36176 Light Grey, and finally pure Light Grey
As the highlights looked a little too pronounced I glaized over them one or twice with the base colour to unify everything betterAs the highlights looked a little too pronounced I glaized over them one or twice with the base colour to unify everything better
All the soon to be iron and bronze areas have been undercoated black.  The inlay on the skirt was painted P3 Pig Iron, washed GW Nuln Oil, and then drybrushed P3 Cold SteelAll the soon to be iron and bronze areas have been undercoated black. The inlay on the skirt was painted P3 Pig Iron, washed GW Nuln Oil, and then drybrushed P3 Cold Steel
The gold was given 2-3 coats of Darkstar Blackened Bronze, and then highlighted with Darkstar BronzeThe gold was given 2-3 coats of Darkstar Blackened Bronze, and then highlighted with Darkstar Bronze
All the bronze was washed with 50/50 water/Secret Weapon Sewer WaterAll the bronze was washed with 50/50 water/Secret Weapon Sewer Water
Finally, the highlights were applied with more Darkstar Bronze.  For anyone thats curious, the rubber is there to rock him back on his pins otherwise you mostly see the top of his headFinally, the highlights were applied with more Darkstar Bronze. For anyone thats curious, the rubber is there to rock him back on his pins otherwise you mostly see the top of his head
The Teeth and Horns were base coated with P3 Menoth White base.  The bottom 2/3rds were washed with P3 Emeber Orange, and then the bottom 1/3rd was washed with P3 Bloodtone.  The tops were highlighted with P3 menoth White Higlight and lines of this were drawn along the curve of the horns to varying lengths.  The Tongue was picked out in P3Murderous MagentaThe Teeth and Horns were base coated with P3 Menoth White base. The bottom 2/3rds were washed with P3 Emeber Orange, and then the bottom 1/3rd was washed with P3 Bloodtone. The tops were highlighted with P3 menoth White Higlight and lines of this were drawn along the curve of the horns to varying lengths. The Tongue was picked out in P3Murderous Magenta
The hair, claws and hooves etc were base coated with a mix of VMC 70.995 German Grey and P3 Cryx Bane BaseThe hair, claws and hooves etc were base coated with a mix of VMC 70.995 German Grey and P3 Cryx Bane Base
That was washed with Nuln Oil, then highlighted with a mix of German Grey and GW Karak Stone.  Final highlights were applied to everything except the hair with a mix of Karak Stone and a tiny amount of the previous mixThat was washed with Nuln Oil, then highlighted with a mix of German Grey and GW Karak Stone. Final highlights were applied to everything except the hair with a mix of Karak Stone and a tiny amount of the previous mix

This final colour is based loosely on Duncans Bloodthirster video but I switched the paints as best as I could for ones I owned.  Once again I found the wings were in the way of everything.  I rarely had anywhere to place my hands while painting the highlights so all brush control went out of the window, and I don’t have much to begin with.  I have shaky hands at the best of times.

Red Daemon Flesh and Wings

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The Daemon was previously given a zenithal preshade and left overnight to dry.  I then dropped my airbrush prssure down to around 15 and thinned my paints down much futher and put a coat of VGS 72.111 Gory Red over the model.  This came out too pink for my tasts so I swapped it out for VMC 72.013 Scarlett Red.  The underside got minimal attention but the side and top got progressively more, still allowing the preshade to influence the coloursThe Daemon was previously given a zenithal preshade and left overnight to dry. I then dropped my airbrush prssure down to around 15 and thinned my paints down much futher and put a coat of VGS 72.111 Gory Red over the model. This came out too pink for my tasts so I swapped it out for VMC 72.013 Scarlett Red. The underside got minimal attention but the side and top got progressively more, still allowing the preshade to influence the colours
After it had had a few hours to dry, the model was given a wash of GW Carroburg CrimsonAfter it had had a few hours to dry, the model was given a wash of GW Carroburg Crimson
Once the wash had fully dried, I thinned down with water and GW Lahmium Medium some of the Scarlett Red and reclaimed everything but the recesses and undersides.  Some GW Evil Sunz Scarlet was thinned and used to add highlights to the reclaimed areas.  A few coats of each were used.Once the wash had fully dried, I thinned down with water and GW Lahmium Medium some of the Scarlett Red and reclaimed everything but the recesses and undersides. Some GW Evil Sunz Scarlet was thinned and used to add highlights to the reclaimed areas. A few coats of each were used.

Then came the Foundry Nipple Pink system (Light, base and shade).  I mixed 3 parts shade with 1 part Evil Sunz Scarlet, and thinned it down to apply the next highlight, covering most of the previus highlight.  Then I did the same, but with pure Nipple Pink Shade.  Then I highlighted edges and glints with thinned Nipple Pink Base, and finally just the glints and extreme highlights with Nipple Pink Highlight.

I am having a problem painting this model.  Anywhere I want to put my hands theres a wing or a weapon in the pay.  It means I often end up holding the brush a couple of inches higher up than is comfortable and I don’t have anywhere to balance my hands.  As a result I am making more of a mess of this model than I might otherwise.

The skin tones all finishedThe skin tones all finished

Once the rest of the model is done I am hoping the flesh will look better.  if not, I might revisit it with an all over glaze or a thinned ink or something to unify the layers better.  We will see when I get there.

The wings got 2 coats of VMC 70.862 Black Grey.  I got a couple of dots of this on the red skin, which I will tidy up once I'm done risking getting more mistakes to fix.The wings got 2 coats of VMC 70.862 Black Grey. I got a couple of dots of this on the red skin, which I will tidy up once I'm done risking getting more mistakes to fix.
The wings were then drybrushed with VMC 70.905 Blue Grey Pale, and then any areas that were more raised got an extra drybush of VMC 70.906 Pale Blue in the hopes of adding a hint of colour to the end results.The wings were then drybrushed with VMC 70.905 Blue Grey Pale, and then any areas that were more raised got an extra drybush of VMC 70.906 Pale Blue in the hopes of adding a hint of colour to the end results.
The wings were then washed with GW Nuln Oil and left to dryThe wings were then washed with GW Nuln Oil and left to dry

Making Daemon Bases

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I’m trying something new with the bases for my Daemons.  This is something I learned from AssetDrop for making crystal growths but I’ve never tried.  I’ll be painting these up to look like obsidian, as detailed below.

The first step was to save some sprue and cut out some straight sections, removing any writing or jutty outy bits.  Then you take your hobby knife and shave off the corners so you have an irregular 8 sided shape.  Then you bring one end to an irregular angular tip.  I then cut a flat bottom on to it at the angle I want.

As you will see below, this gets very messy very fast.  Plan for this, and for gods sake, don’t blow on anything like I did!

My first crystal and the base.  You can see I've marked out where the feet will go so I do not put anything in the way.My first crystal and the base. You can see I've marked out where the feet will go so I do not put anything in the way.
Then I drill a pin hole in the bottom of each.  I drilled a guide hole perpendicular to the surface, but once I'm about 1mm in I angle the drill to go alone the middle of the crystal as best as I can.Then I drill a pin hole in the bottom of each. I drilled a guide hole perpendicular to the surface, but once I'm about 1mm in I angle the drill to go alone the middle of the crystal as best as I can.
Glue some pins (Paperclips) in to the new holesGlue some pins (Paperclips) in to the new holes
Drill holes in the base using the same method as before.  Do this one at a time, dry-fitting crystals until you are happy with the arrangementDrill holes in the base using the same method as before. Do this one at a time, dry-fitting crystals until you are happy with the arrangement
Here it is with the crystals glued on, and the Bloodthirster dry fitted for contextHere it is with the crystals glued on, and the Bloodthirster dry fitted for context
Some kitty litter was superglued down, and then some watery PVA was spread over the base and over the bottoms of the crystals.  Fine garden dirt was then crumbled over everything.  Once the glue is dry (8-24 hours) I'll go over it with even more watery PVASome kitty litter was superglued down, and then some watery PVA was spread over the base and over the bottoms of the crystals. Fine garden dirt was then crumbled over everything. Once the glue is dry (8-24 hours) I'll go over it with even more watery PVA
It has been primed to unify everything.  At this time the first coat of PVA is still wet.  More PVA and probably more priming will happen later before painting begins.It has been primed to unify everything. At this time the first coat of PVA is still wet. More PVA and probably more priming will happen later before painting begins.
Here is a second angle.  The black on black wasn't helping in the previous picHere is a second angle. The black on black wasn't helping in the previous pic

Repairs to Damaged Daemons

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The wing of the Bloodthirster was damaged and one of the horns/antenna from the Soul Grinder were broken when I got them.  I was considering just going with it and calling it battle damage, but I thought I’d try my hand at doing repairs.  I found myself with some time to kill, but not enough to paint so I boiled the kettle and reached for the Oyumaro instant mould again.  I melted down my previous castings, and wrapped the mould around the other horn, and the 2 neighbouring talons and left them to cool down to room temperature before removing them.  They were given longer still before I cut a slit up the side of each where I hoped no one would see (without needing stitches this time!).  I then stuffed them with green stuff as best as I could.  They were then left for a week to set before popping them out of the moulds.

I then cleaned them up as best as I could and dry fit them to the models along the way to work out which talon to keep, and ensure the fit was the best I could get.  Pin holes were drilled on both sides to strengthen the connection and reinforce the green stuff, and the parts were glued.  A little Vallejo Plastic Putty was used to smooth over the connection for the talon.  I’m hoping once primer is applied that these parts will blend in if you don’t look to closely.  I might yet revisitn them with a hobby knife before then, but perhaps that’s just inviting mistakes?  They are far from perfect, but I’m thinking they already look better than just the damage.

As for basing, I have the Behemoth of Decay from Titan Forge.  I’m hoping to make him visually compatible with my Chaos Daemons.  Take a look at his base.  I’m thinking I can make similar spikes from old bits of sprue, even if I have to keep them smaller.  I can then paint them up as obsidian.  A dark grey, with a hint of blue/green to them, and edge them a brighter version of that blue/green.  Something like the scheme in the second picture.  Perhaps coat them with gloss varnish afterwards?  I have the Realm of Chaos: Wrath and Rapture box unopened.  What do people think of that for basing across both factions?

I prized the models from their bases using a hobby knife, a box cutter, and the small screwdriver I use to get lids off tiny pots of paint and only managed to stab myself the once, with the screwdriver thankfully.  Turns out the feet on the Daemon Prince are tiny separate parts and one came off and broke so needed gluing back together.  The models have had pins put in their feet so I can reconnect them to their bases, once I have painted and decorated them.  I have marked out where the feet will go so I do not stick anything there that might get in the way.

The priming is now done, and I think it looks OK.  It doesn’t quite have the definition of the original parts, but unless I’m looking directly at it, I don’t see whats real and whats home made.  This may change when I come to actually paint them up.

I’m being a little cheeky and tagging this for the Spring Cleaning challenge.  I started the project before that was announced, and I’ll be doing it long after it finishes so I suspect I don’t qualify, but I am continuing during the challenge so no harm in clicking a few buttons in the hopes of winning £50.  I’m taking someone elses long abandoned project, fixing it up, painting it, and even getting some games in over here.

Space Wolves Finished

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So that’s all the Space Wolf models from the box done.  That leaves 3 big Daemons and a few odds and ends that might get sold or put on one side until they become relevant.  Here is a picture of the army all painted up and advnacing on the enemy.  The light in my games room isn’t brilliant so sadly the picture isn’t as good as I would have liked.

If you wish to see them in use I have a Battle Report/review type project log started up over here.

So far I have spent £10 on the box and about £15 on parts.  I have sold Pedro Kantor and the Ltd Edition Captain for a £15 profit and I have something on Ebay right now that has a bidder and should make me at least £5 after Ebay and Paypal take their cut so I’m only down £5 overall!

Update: Just got about £5.50 profit from that sale, so I’ve only spent a net total of £4.50 on all these models and I’ve still got a Deathwing Terminator Sargent for sale.

Space Wolves Finished

Dreadnaught Prep

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The box contained 2 dreadnaughts, but 6 limbs so I’ve decided to magnetise everything to allow options.  I’ve had a look around online for advice on this and I saw someone use magnets on the body but metal plates on the limbs in order to save on magnets and to not worry about aligning everything perfectly.  We had one last tub of Twiglets left after Christmas when I read that so I tested to see if the bottom was magnet friendly and it was so I ate the Twiglets and saved the metal.

Dreadnaught Prep

I carefully removed the limbs from the bodies.  By carefully I mean I pulled, prised and levered, and ended up getting a hacksaw for the last limb.  I used some wire cutters to clip through the rim of the metal, but otherwise it was thin enough to cut through with a decent pair of scissors.  Small squares were cut out and glued on the the limbs.  Three holes were drilled in each shoulder in no particular arrangement and magnets were glued in to them.  I tried to keep the polarity the same across all magnets in all shoulders in case of any future decisions.

Once the glue had dried I tested them out.  They seem to hold very well and allow for rotation.

Next up is Priming.  Anyone got any ideas how to hold the extra pair of limbs while I work  on them?  Sadly I don’t have any large magnets to hand.

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Priming is done.  I’ve tried a mixed aproach.  I started with a solid coat of black, and then went for a heavier than usual zenithal white.  i then downed the pressure and tried to reclaim the shadow a little with some thinned black.  I had less success this time around than with the tanks, but its all learning.  We will see how it pans out.

Dreadnaught Prep

I was hoping to have these guys finished by today, but I ended up doing a lot of babysitting over the weekend.  With any luck they will be painted across the week and I can base and varnish this weekend.  Tonight I highlight the gold and then perhaps work on the purity seals?  I’ve noticed that there is a nub on the right breast of the venerable dreadnought where research says a purity seal was supposed to go.  I don’t have that part.  I’ve found a decorative wolf skull that should cover it nicely and help tie the Dreadnought better in to the army.  I’m also considering the missing knee pad on the other one to be battle damage.  Had I noticed before painting I might have had a go at crafting a replacement, but it’s too late now.

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Dreadnaught Prep

This just in: This has won me a Golden Button!

Community Spotlight: Dreadnought Magnetics, Old Trolls & Magical Goatmen

 


 

I have now finished both Dreadnoughts.  The only new colour I added was for the warheads.  I wanted a different shade of red for them so I went with a VGC 72.065 Terracota base for a darker flatter red.  I highlighted the upper portions with some thinned P3 Skorne Red, and further highlighted the tip with a thinned mix of GW Evil Sunz Scarlet.

Iron Priest, Marines & Terminators Finished

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Where colours matched, everyone was painted the same as the Iron priest.  The only change was that I edge highlighted the blue for everyone with GW Fenrisian Grey.

Once the armour was done I worke don the fur as that can be messy.  it was base coated with P3 Bloodstone, and sections were painted over with GW Karak Stone.  It was washed with Agrax Earthshade and then drybrushed with P3 jack Bone.  The noses were picked out in black and then highlighted with Vallejo 70.995 German Grey.  Finally they were given a tiny dot of white to act as glint.

The Cloth backs of the fur was base coated with P3 Sanguine Base and then washed with a mix of Sanguine Base and p3 Exile Blue.  It then got a wash to the deep regions of the previous wash with a little P3 Coal Black added.  It was highlighted with P3 Sanguine highlight, and eventually Sanguine Highlight with a touch of P3 Menoth White Base.

Flesh: P3 Khardic Flesh base.  Washed with a mix of Khardic Flesh and P3 Thornwood Green.  Then washed with Khardic Flesh and P3 Skorne Red.  Then washed with Thornwood Green and Skorne Red.  Highlighted with P3 Midlind Flesh.

Hair: Based with either P3 Idrian Flesh (brown), P3 Ember Orange (Ginger) or P3 Mouldy Ochre (blonde).  Blonde and Ginger got a wash of GW Seraphim Sepia, and brown got a wash of Agrax.  Brown was highlighted with GW Karak Stone, and ginger with the base colour.  Then ginger and blonde were highlighted with P3 Menoth White base.

The red eyes were based with GW Khorne Red.  1/3rd of them was painted with VGA 72.709 Hot Orange, and then a dot of White was put inside that.  Normal eyes were painted normally.

The iron was painted the same as for the Iron Priest, except for the gattling gun.  Its darker sections were based the same, but then painted over with Mission Models Cold Rolled Steel.  It was then washed and highlighted the same.

The Frost Axes were based with GW Runefang Steel, then washed with GW Coelea Greenshade.  P3 Blue ink was then diluted and used to glaze the axe, especially the runes.  Finally, it was drybrushed with P3 Radiant Platinum.

The Lightning Claws were based with VMC 70.808 Blue Green, washed with diluted P3 Blue Ink, encouraging it to remain lighter towards the tips.  The tips were reclaimed with thinned Blue Green.  A little VMC 70.918 Ivory was added to  Blue Green to lighten it, and it was drybrushed over the claws.  Theyw ere then edge highlighted with GW Pallid Wych Flesh, and then thin diagonal lines were paited over then with GW Geramite White.

The wires coming out of the weapons were painted P3 Skorne Red, washed with Nuln oil, and then highlighted with GW Evil Sunz Scarlet.

The Plasma Coil was based with P3 Cygnar Blue Base.  The top half of the ridges were painted with Warcolours Marine 3.  The top half of that was then painted over with Marine 1.  Then the very corners of the ridges were painted with GW Pallid Wych Flesh.  When everything was finished this was given a final coat of gloss varnish.

The Crux Terminatus (Grey skull thing on the shoulders) was based with P3 greatcoat Grey, washed with Nuln Oil, Highlighted with VMC 70.869 and finally given one last lesser highlight with VMC 70.992 Neutral Grey.

The black and white symbols on the shoulders were either painted VMC 70.918 Ivory or P3 thamar Black.  The black was highlighted with VMC 70.995 German Grey.

The Parchment was painted GW Rakarth Flesh, eashed with Agrax Earthshade, reclaimed with thinned Rakarth Flesh and edge highlighted with Pallid Wych Flesh.

The Purity Seals were based with P3 Murderous Magenta mixed with Skorne Red, washed with nuln oil, and then reclaimed with the base colour.  Increasing amounts of ivory were added to this mix for highlights.

The black icons and the occasional pouch and holster were based with VMC German Grey, drybrushed with P3 menoth White Base and then washed with Nuln Oil.

Stones were based with P3 bastion grey, washed with Nuln Oil and then drybrushed with P3 jack Bone.  The runes were washed with Ivory as an undercoat and then painted with P3 Blue Ink.

the leather straps etc were based with P3 Bootstrap Leather, washed with Agrax Earthshade and then highlighted with Menoth White base.

The bullet casings were based with P3 Brass Balls, washed with Agrax Earthshade, and then highlighted with P3 Soild Gold.

The Gems were based with Khorne Red.  The edges were painted with Evil Sunz Scarlet.  P3 Khador Red Highlight was then painted over the top of that favouring towards the peak.  Coat d’arms Sun Yellow was then paited over the highlights.

Lenses were painted with Evil Sunz Scarlet.  A circle of GW Wild Rider Red was painted from about 5-10 on the clock and a dot of white was applied in the top around 1-2 on the clock.  These would be varnished with gloss when everything else is finished.

The lights on the back of the terminators were painted with P3 Necrotite Glow and P3 Heartfire.

Bones and teeth were painted P3 Jack bone, washed with GW Seraphim Sepia, and then drybrsuhed with P3 menoth White Base.

The Terminator guns are often coloured the same as the shoulder pads so I tried to paint them the same was I did with the shoulder.  A wash/glaze/thin paint over zenithal preshade.  However 300 coats in (I might be exaggerating) and the corners were not retaining any colour but the detail was starting to be burried.  I had 2 choices here: Start again or find a way to fix it.

I thought I’d try John’s sponge weathering along the lines hoping that once that was there the black undercoat showing through would look like the paint had worn through and the undercoat was starting to show though.  I sponged on a little VMC 302 Dark Rust and German Grey and it looked much better.  Later on when highlighting the iron I also drybrushed these edges with a tiny amount of P3 Cold Steel in places.

Tanks - Finished

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 4
2 Comments

The tanks are all finished now.  I found that despite being varnished along the way I kept wearing off paint through contact on the lower edges and rivets.  Normally I’d have a models stuck to a handle to work with but tanks are just too big for this.  What do poeple do to deal with this?

Each tank has a 3 way thing on each “shoulder”.  It doesn’t look like a light or a weapon.  What is it?  Speakers?  Countermeasure launcher?  T-Shirt guns?

Daemons

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 5
4 Comments

Along with the Space Wolves I also have 3 Daemons to paint (1 Daemon prince, 1 old school Bloodthirster, and one Soul Grinder).  While at BonesCon I was lucky enough to win a copy of Wrath and Rapture with my arena points so I have a fair bit of Khorne and Slaanesh to paint now.  While I like the Khorne models, I do not like that everything is red on red on red.  I agree that his Daemons should have red skin, but I’m looking for ideas to break up the colour palette a bit otherwise all that red just blurs together.

Looking at the cavalry in the box, I’m considering a dark, near black, green/turquoise (P3 Coal black, or Secret Weapon Tyre Black, but perhaps darker?) for the inlaid sections.  I am still looking to keep the red flesh tones.

Does anyone have any other suggestions for alternate colour schemes or ways to break up the red?

 

I was just going through the web store looking at close ups of these minis and it appears Flesh Hounds have been removed.  Does this sort of thing mean the model has been removed from the game, or just that they are between print runs and perhaps changing the design of the sculpt?

 

I have the Companies of Fenris: Space Wolves Painting guide from 2014.  Was there an equivalent book for Chaos or individual gods?  If so, what was/were they called?  My google-fu is failing me on identifying them.

Daemons

Tanks

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 4
5 Comments

I normally paint Warmachine which is normally a game without tanks so this is my first time painting 28mm tanks since I got my airbrush many years ago and figured out preshading.  As such I chose to look online for guidance and found this video.  I based all my work on it.  I started working on these guys the night before I put the snow on all my bases.  I planned ahead and primed their bottoms black.  This way they could sit upside overnight to dry thoroughly.  The bottoms remained black throughout the priming, but otherwise I tried to follow the steps in the video.

The dozer blade on the vindicator will have hazard stripes painted on it so I masked it with cling film before proceeding.

Once again, I started with the bottoms.  They got 2 quick coats of GW The Fang and given a little time to dry so they would be safe to handle.  I then used GW Russ Grey as my main tone across the body.  Everything was given 2-3 thin coats as needed, as per the video.  The final highlight colour was GW Fenrisian Grey.  These are the paints used on the marines.

With the blues done, I put everything but the Vindicator on one side to day.  I applied extra shielding with a piece of paper and then painted the blade yellow with 3-4 coats of VGA 72.705 Moon Yellow.  Once dry I gave the blade and the top half of all the tanks a coat of gloss varnish to protect them, and because the next stage on the blue is a pin wash.

Once the varnish had dried I masked off diagonal lines on the blade.  I used a small section of the tape to help space out the lines evenly and ensure they are as parallel as I could get.  once I had worked the tape in to every corner and flattened as bast as I could I went over it once more with the yellow.  I have heard this ensures the edges stick down flat.  While this might be unnecessary for masking tape I saw no harm in playing it safe.  Once dry the blade got a couple of coats of black.  Once dry, the tape was removed and the blade and the remaining areas of all the tanks was gloss varnished.

I am focusing on the predator first and doing these one at a time.  I need a break from bulk painting for the moment.

With the airbrushing finished, the next stage is to pin wash every edge, corner, and recess with GW Nuln Oil.  Once dry, everything got an edge highlight with Fenrisian Grey.  The rest of the tank was painted the same as the troops except the headlights, which I painted VMC Fluro Yellow because it is the brightest paint I own.  The only other change as that the red “screens” or lenses were given an upwards glaze of Nuln oil once I had painted them.

The tracks have been picked out in black and I plan on working on them tonight.  It is currently suspended off the ground on 2 pots of paint so the tracks can safely dry.  Once the metal has been highlighted and the tracks are done, the tank will be complete, at least until the transfers are ready.  It looks crisp and fresh from the factory right now.  I am undecided if I should weather the tanks or not.  What do you think?

Tanks

With the tracks undercoated black and the last of the highlighting finished, the next colour is Ammo Mig Jimenez Dark Tracks.  This wasn’t painted on though.  I got an old drybrush and blotted it all over the tracks, covering almost all of it but not worrying if a little black showed through.  Next I mixed some Colours of War Motherland Earth into the Dark Tracks and put a single blot of this on to each section of track.

Once dry, I started work with Alcad II Warpigs Mud Pigment.  I got a second drybrush and rubbed this on to the tracks and around the bottom edges of the tank body.  This was applied dry straight from the pot.  I worked over a fresh sheet of newspaper so I could recover the excess safely, and I was careful not to overload the brush.

Now comes the odd part.  Applying Ammo Mig Jimenez Gun Metal pigment WITH MY FINGER.  This was almost a drybrush.  with a little on the end of my finger I gently rubbed along the tracks allowing the peaks to pick up a little shine.  I was even able to rub over a few rivets on the blue body and get just the rivet somehow.  I rubbed along a couple of blue edges where I thought it might get worn as well.  This stuff is like graphite pencil dust.  These paints and steps all came as part of September 2018’s AssetDrop box and work quite well.

Once I had finished working with the pigments and washed my finger I was sure to put a coat of Gloss Varnish over the whole tank, but especially the pigmented sections to hold the pigment in place.  It previously had no fixative applied and would wear off or blow off.  It was left raised off the ground overnight to safely dry, and currently awaits transfers while I start work on the next tank.  With the dust and graphite effects applied I think I’m happy with its level of weathering and probably won’t proceed any further.  let me know if you think otherwise.

Bases

Tutoring 3
Skill 3
Idea 3
1 Comment

My infantry are now “finished”, but they aren’t finished-finished, as I’m giving the transfers lost of time in the sun to bleach away the yellow before I try them out.  I’ll post a section on them once I’ve some finished shots to share, which will hopefully be this weekend.  If I can’t call them done and cross them off my list soon I’ll get grumpy.

What I can share is the work I’ve done on their bases.  Every base was undercoated a dark colour, either a black or the base colour grey of their rocks.  The rocks  were painted with VMC Neutral Grey, washed with Nuln oil and drybrushed up with P3 jack Bone.  The mud was painted with P3 Battlefield Brown, then drybrushed with P3 Bootstrap Leather and then a little P3 Jack Bone.  This is the same as before.  Simples.  I then reclaimed the pin holes I had made back at the start of the project so I can see where people will end up standing.  Then I added some winter flock from Serious Play Scenics.  Not much.  I don’t want the flock dominating the bases, or getting in the way of attaching the models.  I then masked off the rims of each of the bases as I don’t want to get any snow stuck there.

Bases

You see that blue line on each of the bases?  That’s the direction the wind is going to be coming from.  I’ll be applying the snow in multiple coats so being able to spray from the same point layer after layer is key.  I didn’t think it through properly for the bases with guys already on so I largely ignored it for them and just did the best I could without ending up with snowmen.

With this done, it was time to prep my workspace.  Two key things to remember going forwards

  1. Everything will be covered with hairspray.  It will ruin everything.  Do it inside a box.  I used the box I use for airbrushing, and even then I lined it with newspaper as i wanted to keep using it
  2. Snow flock is a very fine powder.  It will go everywhere and you will want to recover it.  I wore a dust mask at a  times and waited until I was home alone so no one could create air flow near it.  I also prepared 2 clean trays lined with clean newspaper for working with the snow on.

I lined up all my bases in the box and drowned them in Tescos Everyday Value Hair Spray and then transferred then to a clean tray for flocking.  I do not want the excess snow getting stuck to the excess spray and being wasted.  I was very selective when spraying the bases with models on, and even then made mistakes.

The snow flock was then applied through a Wilco’s tea strainer reserved solely for this task using a small spoon over all the bases before being allowed a little time to dry.  I’ve no idea how long it wants, but I gave it around 10 minutes.  Hours might be better, but I wanted this done before anything happened to blow snow everywhere.

Bases

Once dried, the excess was gently shaken and tapped off.  I had some snow stuck to the minis so I took a wet brush and cleaned them off as best I could.  Everything was transferred back to the box, the excess snow as returned to its container and I repeated this process a few more times to build up the layer.  Once I was happy with the results, I left it for a couple of hours to dry, cleaned off the models with a wet brush, and then gave everything 2 coats of gloss varnish with the airbrush to seal it in.

Bases

Next stage was to glue the minis in place, and peel off the masking agent. It became evident that I was transferring snow to the minis so they were cleaned up with a wet brush once more, and everything was sealed once more with gloss varnish. Previous coats had been more of a blanket coating without picking anything up. This was an individual target approach. Once dry I painted up the bases and gave just the bases a coat of gloss.

They are currently sat on a shelf waiting for the transfers and looking quite good. here are a few points of interest:

  •  The snow used is from precision ice And Snow. I received a sample set in an AssetDrop discovery box last year.
  • Every time you apply the first coat of hair spray or varnish over the top of the snow it “melts” a little. You end up with a little less there than before. Plan for this.
  • I suspect this stuff is designed for display pieces rather than models. I think it is at its best when it is allowed to pile up and then left loose, rather than sealed in so it can be handled or breathed near. If anyone knows a better way to seal it in when piled up please let me know.
  • Wear a dust mask! No one wants to inhale hairspray. I’ve no idea if the snow is bad for you, but typically any fine powder you can inhale is usually bad for you. Plus you really don’t want to breathe or, god forbid, cough at the pot of snow!

Tank Repairs

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 4
No Comments

The predator and Land Raider were bot missing some parts.  I was able to track down everything I needed except for one of the optics for the Land Raider.  This gave the the opportunity to experiment with Oyumaro instant mould, using this link as my guide.

The basis for my mould couldn’t be safely removed from the tank so I had limited access to it (pic 1).  I felt the best approach was then to take two moulds from it, one focusing on the front detail, and one focusing on the back detail, but with overlap between the two (pic 2).  The Oyumaro really does set fast but I gave it extra time to be sure.  Once my two moulds had set I stuffed them with green stuff (pics 3 & 4).  The advantage of the clear Oyumaro over the coloured stuff is that you can already see the level of detail being maintained, along with spotting any voids before it’s too late to deal with them.

Green stuff takes around 24 hours to dry fully, but I left them a lot longer to be sure.  Once set, I popped both parts out easily (pics 5 & 6).  The moulds could be used again right away, or dropped in to boiling water and reused for another project.  I trimmed off the excess material and eyeballed the parts against the original and cut away the unwanted overlap, leaving a little behind.  The two parts were then dry fit and compared and the middle was filed down until what was left appeared to match (pic 7).  because I am an idiot I chose to do the cutting and clean up using a brand new cheap box cutter that was to hand, rather than my slightly blunt hobby knife.  As such I underestimated it’s sharpness and put it in to my thumb and it would not stop bleeding (pic 8).  That knife is sharp!  I can now tell you that superglue works a treat to seal wounds (pic 9).  Learn from my mistakes.

With my hand glued back together I glued the sensors together.  I sanded along the joins to clean them up and applied a little Vallejo Plastic Putty to smooth over any gaps.  Once it was dry it was filed down once more and I have an acceptable replacement part (pic 10).

With the part made and the other parts acquired thanks to Ebay I could now rebuild everything.

Starting with the Land Raider, the green part was pinned on to the turret to ensure strength, but it ended up pointing a little downwards by mistake.  The radar dish arm was snapping off so I also pinned that.  The pegs for the side lascannons were missing so I filled in the holes, and lined them up as best as I could.  Not 100% sure they lined up enough for the shields to connect properly.  I think they are supposed to be assembled before going in to their mounts, but that’s not an option here.  I did a little clean up on these models too, but as they are already built I was limited in what I could comfortably achieve.

The Predator gun/turret was missing the piece that connected the two.  I assume it was once part of the optic, but snapped of with the gun.  I grabbed a piece of Mantic bases sprue which was square and seemed to be the right cross section to fit inside the gun.  I glued it in place while assembling the gun and let it set (pic 1).  Once dry, I cut it down to size and drilled pin holes in the sprue and the underside of the optic (pic 2).  I can see why this gun snapped off.  A single connection point on a moving part like this feels like it wants to snap off.

Again more clean up was performed on the model.  The original glue job looks pretty thick and yellow.  It seems to be holding strong though.  We will see if it shows through the paint or becomes a problem.

I believe all I need to do for the 2 other tanks is pin their small guns back on to them.  I should get that done tonight and then they are all repaired and ready to prime, unless anyone can see anything I’ve missed?

Reviving Old Transfers

Tutoring 2
Skill 2
Idea 4
No Comments

I was having a chat on the forums about iconography, chapters, division etc, and transfers, and @Rayzyr was awesome enough to offer to post me his old Space Wolf transfers.  He’s sent me quite a bit too so I should be able to cover everything.  Some of these have 1989 printed on them which makes them around 30 years old (which makes me feel very old!) and as a consequence of their age they have yellowed a bit.  This might not matter if I place them on yellow shoulder pads, but it might, and it will on any other colour surface so I’ve looked in to ways to recover them

A google hunt led me to a video which said that placing them in direct sunlight for a few days can bleach them back to their original colour.  The guy was talking about waterslide transfers for model cars, but the technology is surely the same?  He loved in Scotland and a few days to a week was enough for him, so the British sun should be equally capable.  (I do love that they have travelled from Australia to England in the winter to then be placed in the sun!)

I have Blutacked them to a folder clipboard and it is currently stood like a Christmas card on my bedroom windowsill being careful to ensure no condensation can possibly get to it.

I’ll report back later with the results of this experiment.  If anyone has any advice to offer with recovering these transfers, or using them I’d be interested to hear it.  I do not own any Microsol.  I’ve always been fine applying transfers over a gloss varnish with just water, and then sealing it with more varnish.  Does their age really preclude this method?

(PS I’m almost done with the infantry in the previous entry.  I’ve just the basing and transfers to do.  I’ll update the previous entry when the basing is done.  Most of the work is the same as for the entry before anyway.

They were left in my window for 11 days at the tail end of birtish winter.  There were maybe 2 good days of sun right at the end.  However it appears to have done the job.  See for yourselves.

Building and Prep Work for Space Marines and Terminators

Tutoring 2
Skill 2
Idea 2
No Comments

I’ve built and repaired all the Space Marines and Terminators from the parts available.  I do not have enough parts to avoid using damaged parts, or to avoid using two sets of Terminator legs that I believe have Dark Angels symbols on them.  I could file them off but I’m afraid I’ll just ruin the models.  I think Terminators come in units of 5 men so this gives me 2 units, instead of one and some spare models.  I also have 13 Tactical Marines built, and 3 Primaris from the front of the Magazine yet to assemble.  Two marines needed green stuffing to repair, and one Terminator was holding a handle with no blade so I cut an axe head off a spare weapon and pinned it on, probably adding more than an inch to its length.  It also had a cool wolf head on its bottom so i also transferred that over extending the axe even further.  The guy is now wielding a pistol in one hand and a very long axe in his other hand.  It might not be practical, but it is cool.  See the middle guy in the last image of the gallery

Everybody has had a mix of cork and kitty litter glued to their bases for rocks.  They will have cleaned dirt applied with matt medium as a glue, and then sealed in with dilute PVA.  Watery PVA will also be applied over the cork so it can soak in and reinforce it.  I might do this part twice as some of it is fragile.  My plan is to apply winter tufts and snow to all the bases at the end.  Height and texture will help make this look good.

These two had to have limbs repaired or extended with Green Stuff.  it was left 24 hours to dry, and then filed down as best as I can.  Hopefully once primed it will be less noticeableThese two had to have limbs repaired or extended with Green Stuff. it was left 24 hours to dry, and then filed down as best as I can. Hopefully once primed it will be less noticeable

I also have 2 Dreadnoughts.  Their arms are already glued on but I have 2 spares.  I am considering removing the arms and magnetising them.  Anyone had any experience with this?  Is one magnet a limb enough to not only support the weight but stop weapon droop / the limbs rotating until the point downwards?  I’ve seen a guide where someone put 3 magnets per side of the body and put a metal plate on each limb.  This means it only takes 6 magnets per body, and there are no issues about lining up magnets and pins across multiple limbs.  I finished off a tub of Twiglets last night.  The bottom is ferrous metal and thin and light.  I suspect I could cut it with a decent pair of scissors too.  It might be worth a try.

Has anyone any experience and opinions on making Dreadnought limbs swap-in-and-out-able through any methods?

Iron Priest Test Piece & Space Wolf Model Inventory

Tutoring 2
Skill 2
Idea 2
No Comments

I want to test out the colour scheme for the Space Wolves before I go full in to mass production so I’ve picked a solo to work on first.  I had 11 marines so thats 1 spare from a unit.  I had 3 mechanical arms so why not turn him in to an Iron Priest?  His arm was broken so that needed patching up with Green Stuff.  I know the backpack is technically for loading rockets in to a launcher, but my rocket launcher guy already has a backpack so I’m going with it.  Below you can see what I’ve built, and the current GW stock model for the Iron Priest.  What do you think?  See any issues?  I’ll likely prime him in the morning and put him on one side to start painting once I’ve cleared the current minis off my paint station.

I don’t know about 40k iconography so if anyone sees me using something definitively wrong please let me know.  I want to be mostly correct and this is also a good opportunity for me to learn more about the universe and the lore.

As a summary, here’s what I think I own towards a Space Wolves army.  I’d be interested to hear if this is a solid basis for a competitive list ot not, and what I’d need to add/remove to make it so:

HQ: Kitbashed Iron priest

Elites: Dreadnought & Venerable Dreadnought

Heavy Support: Land Raider, Vindicator, & Predator

Transport: Rhino

Troops: 10x Tactical Marines, 10x Terminators, 3x Primaris Intercessors from the magazine (Can you field just 3?  Looks like 5 is the minimum)

I can’t seem to find regular Terminators or Marines in the GW Combat Roster program.  Are all Space Wolf Terminators called Wolf Guard Terminators, or are they different?  I assume base level SW Space Marines are known as a Space Wolf Pack?  I’m not seeing them in the app either.  GW Don’t like to make this game easy to access, do they?

Back to painting

  1. I started with a preshade
  2. Using inks I built up the colour on the shoulders.  This should benefit from the preshading if I don’t go too far.  Working with the inks I already own, I chouse to try Coat d’arms Ink Wash Red and Coat d’arms Ink Wash yellow.  The red appeared too bright so I ended up dulling it down later with a little P3 Skorne Red glaze.  I may revisit this later and change it again.
  3. The shoulders were then coated with gloss varnish to protect them during the next few steps.
  4. The shoulders were given 2 heavy coats of liquid mask.  Thick is easier to remove later.
  5. Using my airbrush I laid down an even base coat of GW The Fang.  First highlight was GW Russ Grey sprayed from above and down to almost 90 degrees.  Final highlight was GW Fenrisian Grey sprayed from above and out to 10-20 degrees at most.  This should build up a natural highlight over all those curved surfaces
  6. The liquid mask was removed and the areas were checked to see if they needed touching up.
  7. The model was given a coat of gloss varnish and then pin washed with GW Agrax Earthshade
  8. I should have gone in and edge highlighted the blues but I did not.  I will likely do this with future models and do this guy with them.  This might require adding a little ivory, or P3 Frostbite to the highlight colour.  We will see.
  9. The flex between armour plates was based with VMC 70.995 German Grey and washed with GW Nuln Oil
  10. I picked out the iron with GW Leadbelcher, washed id with Nuln oil, and highlighted up with P3 Cold Steel.  The dark plates on the guns were painted with VMC German grey and washed and highlighted with the iron to give them a metallic effect
  11. The gold was done with GW Retributor armour, washed with diluted Green Stuff World (GSW) 1713 Pecatum Flesh Wash Ink, and then highlighted back up with P3 Solid Gold.
  12. The skulls were painted with P3 Jack Bone, washed with GW Seraphim Sepia and highlighted with P3 Menoth White Base.
  13. The axe handle was based with P3 Murderous Magenta, washed with Agrax Earthshade and highlighted with a mix of Murderous Magenta and P3 Menoth White Highlight.
  14. The eyes were given a dot of P3 Ember Orange and then washed with red ink.

The base was sprayed with VMC Neutral Grey, washed with Nuln oil and drybrushed up with P3 jack Bone.  The mud was painted with P3 Battlefield Brown, then drybrushed with P3 Bootstrap Leather and then a little P3 Jack Bone.  It will eventually be coated with snow, but it is more efficient to do this with multiple bases at the same time so I am not doing this just yet.

I’m calling him done for now.  I’ll likely be adding some edge highlighting to the armour while painting some troops and I may revisit the red too.  We will see.  I plan on using these steps as a basis for the rest of the army.

Painting, clean up and prep for the future

Tutoring 2
Skill 2
Idea 2
19 Comments

I ran these guys under the tap in warm water and rubbed them gently with a toothbrush and they look much cleaner.  32mm seems to be the future for space marines so I’ll likely re-base them before painting.  I know the old bases aren’t a problem to stick with, at least for this edition.  I have a few questions I’d like some feedback on:

1: If I wanted to strip the paint off the tanks without dismantling them, is my best option actually a big bucket of Dettol?  I usually use a jam jar, which needs a lot less fluid.

2: If I didn’t strip and just primed over the top with my airbrush, does anyone foresee any issues?

3: I’ve seen the Citadel paints app for the Space Wolves colour scheme, but GW paint pots hate air brushes.  Anyone got a Vallejo recipe they like and care to share?  otherwise I’ll look at the DakkDakka chart and just compare GW and Vallejo pots down the store one day, and that’s not always representative of their dry colours.

4: Space Wolves deserve snowy rocky ground.  I have some PrecisionIceAndSnow fake snow which I’ve used and like, but it really wants lots of peaks and troughs on a base to work well.  I could put down cork rocks, and bits of kitty litter.  I could base stamp some green stuff broken ground.  Anyone got any other suggestions for adding spots of height to the base that won’t stop me drilling pin holes through them and sticking a marine down with them?

5: If anyone has some spare Las Cannons for a Predator tank or a Land Raider (Which also needs a sponson optic) and doesn’t mind parting with them please let me know.  I also have the resin body for Abaddon the Despoiler.  He either needs all the other parts sending to me, or he needs to be adopted by someone else who has the parts.

6: Anyone any experience with Oyumaru or other mould making sticks?  Think I could make moulds from the las cannons I have and then mod them to fit the other sides of these tanks?  Would it take lots of practise to get it right?  Would I be better off casting the guns in two halves (top and bottom) and then gluing them together after, or trying to make a full clamshell mould?

 

UPDATE 10/10/18

I found the parts for the Predator, one Land Raider Las Cannon and 2 Las Cannon armour plates/covers on eBay yesterday and ordered them.  Assuming they turn up all I need now is one Land Raider Las Cannon and one sponson optic/sensor, and I can replace that with a couple of wires and say it was shot off if need be.  Looking for donations or trades if anyone has those 2 parts?

Rhino

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I missed a tank!  With so much to post I forgot to inclide the Rhino.  The gun is missing off the top, but it is present.  Otherwise it appears intact.  Correct me if I am wrong.

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Marine-Rhino-2017

 

Son of Horus Terminator Character? Terminator Lord? Who is he?

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I found this guy in the mix. He’s probably resin.  I think theres a resin hammer in the bits box that might be his.  He is a stron match for the Forgeworld Suns of Horus Terminatos, but he has much fancier knee pads and a different back.  he knee pads remind me of the Chaos Terminator Lords so perhaps he is a SoH Terminator lord, perhaps 30K?  I can’t find him on either web site.  Anyone recognise him?  he has odd cut marks on the bottom of his feet, suggesting he was stood on something once, but perhaps I’m just reading too much in to that?

Converting models from one chapter to another

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This guy is currently a Dark Angel.  Most of my stuff is Space Wolves and i’d like to unify what I can.  I’m not sure how much of his iconography says that.  The right shoulder does.  Does the wings in the corner of the sape, and how about the breastplate and crotch guard?  What about the right shin?  If it is just the shoulder this would be an easy fix.  The cloak may be fixable by filing.  Not sure about the rest.

What is the unit size for Space Wolves Terminators?  This guy would be my 11th.  Would he even fit?  Or would a Captain be an extra or a solo/character?  Not sure how 40K works.

EDIT: He’s a Deathwing Terminator Captain, isn’t he?  im pretty sure I have those wing things from his shoulders.  Everything on his is Dark Angel iconography, isn’t it?  Theres no converting him I assume and I should just enjoy the model as it is.

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Dark-Angels-Deathwing-Terminator-Squad

I’m told this next guy is a Grey Knight.  Whats parts of the model mark him as such and can anything be done to turn him in to a Space Wolf, or a generic marine?  Given he is metal, and a nice sculpt, would I be better off just enjoying him as he is?  Something appears to be missing from the top of his backpack.  Any ideas?  Anyone know what the original sculpt is called and perhaps have a link to images?

This next guy looks a lot like Captain Tycho of the Blood Angels.  is he perhaps a previous sculpt of him?  Is there anything about him that ties him to a Chapter?  Should his gun have extra parts on it?  It looks like maybe the barrel is missing a piece?  There is no detail on the end there, but otherwise it looks like a fancy version of many other guns I have.

 

Update: He’s a Web Store exclusive from 2014 for ordering more than £50 of stuff.  he is based on the 1991 games day limited edition mini.

http://www.kriswallminis.com/2014/04/pretty-effing-awesome-space-marine.html

 

Please start at other end for more information

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Please look through this gallery and help me identify everything, cornim my identification, and look for missing parts.  If you can also link to decent pictures of any missing parts you may help me find them in my bits box.

 

Thank you for your help.

Terminators and Marines and Odds and Sods

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Terminators(?) already on bases.  Some have braids and claws.  I assume this means I bought a Space Wolves army?Terminators(?) already on bases. Some have braids and claws. I assume this means I bought a Space Wolves army?
The Marines already on bases or that caught my eye.  I see some characters and a beaky marine.  Anyone recognise anything?The Marines already on bases or that caught my eye. I see some characters and a beaky marine. Anyone recognise anything?

There were a few sprues with lots left on them too.  Perhaps they can be used to identify what the other marines are from?  They need identifying too.  The rule books and assembly guides I found are in the gallery below, if that helps anyone.  The most recent White Dwarf was from 2014 so that puts a rough age sinec thic collection was updated.

There were alos some Ork transfers.  Are they likely to still be useable or do thise things go of over time?  I’m actually painting some Orks right now and they might be useful.

The gallery also shows you the Bits Box..  its over an inch deep and it is BUSY.

Who does this banner belong with?  Terminators or Marines?  Do terminators carry banners ever?  Would this icon free banner ever be limited to a chapter?Who does this banner belong with? Terminators or Marines? Do terminators carry banners ever? Would this icon free banner ever be limited to a chapter?

Update: I have pieced together 10 Space Wolf / generic Terminators, 11 generic Tactical Marines, with just enough iconographly on their leader to be Space Wolves, and a Techmarine with Space Wolf weapons and symbols.

 

While I am down 3 weapons from tanks, which I hope to pick up soon I estimate that everything compete from this would have cost £423 (Edit: after remembering the Rhino this is £445.50) if I walked in to the store to buy it today.  Theres also a butt load of incomplete things I’m not looking at, mainly dark angels with no arms and legs.  Only 25 complete (Or soon to be complete) models too.  There’s still one or two bits to identify properly so this may yet change.

The box also contained a set of drawers, a Skaven, a Purestrain Genestealer, an Elf, a Lizardman, a Zombie, and a random pair of rubber legs, none of which I’ve identify yet.  Pointers there would be appreciated, but I’ve not really begun to look for them yet.  I also found the most inportant item: A bouncy rubber ball with a fish in it!

Daemon 2 - Daemon of Khorne Bloodthirster

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This is an old sculpt of a Bloodthirster, right?  One of the spikes on one wing has snapped off but otherwise he appears intact.  A missing spike is just battle damage if I can’t find it.  I can live with that.

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Daemons-Of-Khorne-Bloodthirster

Daemon 1 - Daemon of Khorne?

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Is this a Bloodthirster?  A Daemon Prince?  Something else?  I see no direct match on the web store.

Chaos Daemons on GW

 

Edit: Its a Daemon Prince

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Daemon-Prince-2016

Dreadnaught 2 - Vanilla Dreadnaught, not An Ironclad

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Looks like an Ironclad but the plating on the front isn’t a 100% match.  I hope the missing shoulder turret things are in a box somewhere.  Are the essential or are there variants without them?

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Marine-Dreadnought

 

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Marine-Ironclad-Dreadnought

 

Edit 14/01/19: Trying to identify the loadout

He has a Lascannon, and Mark V Power Fist.

The spares are a Left Shoulder Missile Launcher and a Right Shoulder Assault Cannon

I also have these weapons.  If I was inclined, and I could safeley remove the existing weapons I could magnetise both sets to swap in and out.  Still not sure what was glued to its shoulders once, but it doesn't seem to matter.I also have these weapons. If I was inclined, and I could safeley remove the existing weapons I could magnetise both sets to swap in and out. Still not sure what was glued to its shoulders once, but it doesn't seem to matter.

Venerable Dreadnought with Church Windows design and a halo

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I can’t find one on the web store with this design on it.  Any clues?  I think I see some Space Wolves in the box if that helps identify anything.

 

Edit: Found thanks to @lordofuzkulak

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Marine-Venerable-Dreadnought

 

Edit 14/01/19

Trying to identify load out.  I believe thats a Venerable Dreadnaught Power Fist, and an Assault Cannon.  Is that an iron halo?  Are Space Wolf Dreadnoughts allowed those?  I thought not.

Are there any limits on the weapons Space Wolf Dreadnoughts can have?  Are my 2 legal?

Land Raider?

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A Land Raider?  Seems like the turrets are missing bits.  Perhaps those loose weapons?  Perhaps just end pieces/caps?

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Marine-Land-Raider

 

Update: 25/09/18

I’ve added a pic of a sprue to the gallery which highlights the parts I believe I am missing.  I’m not seeing them on eBay.  If anyone has them I’ll reimburse you.  I can buy the other set of guns on eBay, and it would be quite simple to mod them to fit but the guy wants £12 just for the bottom half of that pic, which doesn’t seem proportional to the cost of the whole tank.

EDIT (5 minutes later):  Looking again, the guns do appear to be side agnostic after all.

Anyone know the cheapest way/place to get a whole new unassembled Land Raider?  Might be better to build a second up with different weapon options and use the lascannons for this one.

Predator Tank

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This would be a Predator tank?  That bit on top, is that from the Vindicator, or is this not a Predator?

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Predator-2017

Vindicator??

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Looks like a Vindicator, but the thing on top has snapped off.  The bit at the back is missing too, but theres no sign anything was glued there so perhaps its not a Vindicator?  Anyone got any better pics of the missing parts to help see if I have them in the bits box?

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Marine-Vindicator

Having looked through the full gallery on the web store for this tank, it apperas the bits on top are optional extras, and this gun turret is just as valid.  Thres 2 painted up, and 2 tanks with then snapped off of so the previous owner must have been using this part.  I'm calling this tank comp;lete, unless anyone sees anything else?Having looked through the full gallery on the web store for this tank, it apperas the bits on top are optional extras, and this gun turret is just as valid. Thres 2 painted up, and 2 tanks with then snapped off of so the previous owner must have been using this part. I'm calling this tank comp;lete, unless anyone sees anything else?

Soul Grinder

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https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Soul-Grinder

 

A Soul Grinder Chaos Daemon.  Possibly with a Khorne affiliation?  I don’t know if it matters or if its down to the paint scheme?  When i first saw him his arm was missing, but I found it once I got home.  One of his antenna has snapped of but I may yet find it.  if I dont, I imagine a damaged daemon is normal anyway.  hes not damaged, he’s custom modded.  Right?

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I was helping my karate club run a stallat a school fete that had a boot sale of 6 cars attatched to it.  While handing out leaflets at the boot sale I saw a box with some GW in it, and a couple of drawers too.  I asked how much it was and they said £10.  I assumed per tank but then they said it was for everything, not just the box.  I don’t play 40k but how can I say no to that when I’ve already seen a few tanks and 2 winged deamons and a spiderbot.

I’ve spent the last half an hour or so photographing the bigger items and I’m about to list them here.  Could you please help me work out whats what, and work out whats missing from them.  I’d love close up images of missing parts.  I have a large bits box.  I might have the parts, if I can identify them.

Does GW have some way I can order missing parts?

Some of these models are thick with dust.  Is it OK to just run them under the tap and take a toothbrush to them, or does that just make the durst run in to the hard to reach places, making things worse?

 

Any thoughts on stripping the paint from the tanks?  They’re too big to fit in a jam jar of Dettol.  Or will I be fine just priming over the top?

The Box.  I managed to get it all in there, but the lid isn't going to close all the way without something breaking!The Box. I managed to get it all in there, but the lid isn't going to close all the way without something breaking!