Manda’s (Amachan) Gaming Table

These are the finished scenery pieces that I have been working on for the last month or 2. Most of it is scratch build with a couple of 3d printed and resin cast pieces.

The Greek statues are 3D printed from 3D scans from the originals done by the Statens Museum for Kunst in Copenhagen, Denmark.

The wall pieces are resin cast pieces from Fenris Games and the High Elven waystones, both broken and intact were 3D printed and sculpted by Makers Anvil.

The gravestones are 3D printed and are from Great Grimoire.

And finally the lizardmen statues are 3D printed and come from OnePageRules. And the rest is all scratch build by me.

I started with the same armatures as before because they will easily fit into my existing scenery pieces. I twist up the armatures, cut some bits off for variety and then went on to painting them.

I didn’t prime them and started to apply a basecoat of Vallejo Model Air Brown Green (71.030) with my airbrush followed by a coat of Secret Weapon Wash Algea (W013). By the gods do Secret Weapon washes smell badly through the airbrush. I then followed this up by a drybrush coat of Vallejo Panzer Aces Old Wood (70.310) when the trees were dry.

I added a couple of vines to the trees as additional detail and I sprayed a Army Painter Anti-Shine aerosol varnish over them when done.

I didn’t want to go super cheap with these trees like the previous set, hint: they’re falling apart. I used Woodland Scenics Hob-e-Tac Adhesive on the branches and let that sit for a bit until it goes mostly transparent.

I got 2 bags of Woodland Scenics Bushes in different colours and I then liberally started sticking them to the branches. Be aware though, that glue is tacky, like really tacky, but when you pull on something stuck to it it will stretch until it comes loose. The Woodland Scenics Bushes are not normal clump foliage or something like that, they are more spongy and thus light-weight and look great in my opinion.

After I stuck on the bushes I sprayed some simple spray adhesive over the top and sprinkled a little bit of light flock of the trees for a bit texture. I let that sit for a while and then sprayed a heavily watered-down PVA over the trees to seal them in. Not sure that was entirely necessary though as some of the bushes did fall off, but the glue I used is still so tacky I just stick them back in.

And that is my new version 2 of my trees done.

This is my warlord’s tomb from Fenris Games.

These are my runestones from Fenris Games.

These are my marshlands for my gaming table.

I started by making a base as usual from ePVC foamboard and then I added a little rim to the base made of coffee stirrers. The outer rim is 1 stirrer high and the inner 2. I then sanded them semi-smooth in preparation for some filler. This rim will be the barrier between where I want my water effects to go in. I then smoothed the edges with filler. Unfortunately, not everything turned out fully smooth. And thus I smoothed those bits out with a bit of clay. I then followed up adding a couple of small islands made out of clay in the basin to turn it into marshlands.

I primed the pieces as normal and I put down a rough coat of Vallejo Panzer Aces Dark Mud (70.316) in the basin. I then painted the rest in the same way as I did before. I applied a coat of AK Interactive Diorama Terrains Muddy Ground (AK8017) around the edges and on the islands. I then glued in an array of tufts in the terrain paste. After this was dry I applied flock in the method before around the edges.

I added a couple more tufts and then sealed it all in with water down PVA. When that was dry I applied a heavy coat of The Army Painter Anti Shine Matt Varnish (Aerosol Can) over the basin and the edges. This will seal it all in and make sure that any pigments can’t leak into the water effects. When this was dry I mixed up a batch Vallejo Water Texture Still Water (26.230) & Vallejo Panzer Aces Dark Mud (70.316) for the first layer of water.

The water effects settled to one side when it was dry. I checked if the table was flat and it was, I checked it because they both pooled to the same side. There is a little bit of warp in the pieces and the weight may have shifted to one side and they have pooled there. I put them on equal sized stands so if there is a warp it will pool in the centre where it will be less noticeable.

I poured in a second coat of still water and paint as before to equal things out a bit and I think it worked well. I then added a final coat of only still water and sprinkled a couple of leaves on there for detail. Yes there is a lot of shrinkage with this and I’m not sure if I want to use it again in the future for pieces like this.

These are my Rubble City Ruins from Fenris Games all done.

To make my piece of ruins I used some pieces from the Rubble City Ruins set from Fenris Games. First I needed to get the pieces together in the shapes that I wanted. I glued them together with super glue and filled in the gaps with Vallejo Plastic Putty (70.401) making it kind of look like mortar.

I made a base for the ruins in the same way as I did for my previous terrain pieces using ePVC foamboard. I wanted the ruins to have a bit of strength underneath them when I attached them to the base. The bottoms of the ruins were not perfectly flat when multiple pieces were stuck together. So I added a layer of clay underneath as support. I then proceeded to cover and smooth out the rest of the base with clay which was a bad mistake. Due to this the piece has slightly warped and I should have just used filler to do the majority of the base.

For the painting of the stone I used the same method as before and for flocking I did as well, so I’m not going into detail how I did that again as you can read it down in the project. Here are some progress pictures to show the final stages.

Here is both my second small woods and large woods completely finished.

The woods were done in the same way as I did the previous one. The only difference is that in this I added a couple of logs and some tree stumps around. The painting for those was the same as I did for my trees. Links to the individual entries down below.

This is my steep hill for my gaming table.

For this steep hill I started with a piece of ePVC foamboard, cut and bevelled it to the size I wanted for this piece of terrain. I then glued a couple of pieces of cork bark in a slight circle to form the cliff edge of the steep hill. I cut to shape a piece of expanded polystyrene to fill in the centre and filled in little gaps with off-cuts from the expanded polystyrene. I cut and sanded the polystyrene flat and into a shape that I wanted and then went over it and filled it in and sealed it up with filler and smoothed that out with a wet cloth. Once dry I added some rocks, sand and debris to hide unnatural areas and generally improve the look.

I primed it using a black aerosol primer because aerosol primers don’t get absorbed as much by the cork bark as normal paint would. I then basecoated the piece with Vallejo Surface Primer German Red Brown (73.605), this will be my new basecoat colour going forward with my terrain. You can see that in areas the filler did not fully seal up the polystyrene and the aerosol melted little holes in the piece, don’t worry, these won’t be visible in the end.

To start of is an overbrush of Vallejo Model Color Basalt Grey (70.869) over all the stone and followed by a coat of Secret Weapon Wash Algea (W013). I then applied a drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Medium Sea Grey (70.870) followed by a lighter drybrush of Vallejo Model Air White Grey (71.119) over the stone.

A baselayer of 3 tones of flock went down as I did before. Once that was dry and I shook off the excess I started little tufts and clump foliage in and around the cliff.

I used this video by TheTerrainTutor as my guide on how to make this piece of terrain.

This is my rocky ground for my gaming table.

For this rocky ground I started with a piece of ePVC foamboard, cut and bevelled it to the size I wanted for this piece of terrain. I then glued pieces of cork bark down on the base to form the rocks. I filled in most of the base around the rocks with filler and smoothed it out with a wet cloth. Once dry I added some rocks, sand and debris to hide unnatural areas and generally improve the look.

I primed it using a black aerosol primer because aerosol primers don’t get absorbed as much by the cork bark as normal paint would. I then basecoated the piece with Vallejo Surface Primer German Red Brown (73.605), this will be my new basecoat colour going forward with my terrain.

To start of is an overbrush of Vallejo Model Color Basalt Grey (70.869) over all the stone and followed by a coat of Secret Weapon Wash Algea (W013). I then applied a drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Medium Sea Grey (70.870) followed by a lighter drybrush of Vallejo Model Air White Grey (71.119) over the stone.

A baselayer of 3 tones of flock went down as I did before. Once that was dry and I shook off the excess I started little tufts and clump foliage around the rocks.

This is the Runed Pentagram Altar from Fenris Games.

This is the Runed Pentagram Altar from Fenris Games. I started with a 100mm MDF base, I bevelled the edges and sealed it using filler. I then glued it to the base. I smoothed the transition between the resin piece and the base with some DAS modelling clay.

I primed the whole model in black and painted it with a coat of Vallejo Model Air Rust (71.080) with my airbrush.

The stonework first got an overbrush coat of Vallejo Model Color Basalt Grey (70.869) and then a coat of Secret Weapon Wash Algea (W013). After this I applied a heavy drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Medium Sea Grey (70.870). In hindsight I should have waited longer for the wash to fully dry before doing this. I then applied a drybrush of Vallejo Model Air White Grey (71.119) over the stonework.

I basecoated the skulls in Vallejo Game Color Bonewhite (72.034) and then coated them with Vallejo Game Color Sepia Shade (73.200). After this was dry they received a drybrush of Vallejo Game Color Bonewhite (72.034). I basecoated the main alter in Vallejo Game Color Tinny Tin (72.060) and the snakes in Vallejo Model Color Bronze (70.998) and then followed that up with a coat of Citadel Shade Athonian Camoshade (99189953024) and when dry followed up with a drybrush of Vallejo Game Color Bright Bronze (72.057). Now a coat of gloss varnish for protection and a coat of anti-shine to remove the shine of the gloss varnish.

I covered most of the base, at least where I wanted flocking, in a watered down coat of PVA. I then followed up by flocking the base with the same 2 colours as I did my table. After the glue dried I shook off the excess and started adding tufts and little bits of clump foliage where the glue didn’t really take that well in order to fill up the gaps. I also added some tufts and clump foliage where I thought it would look good. I then added some light flock on places where I think moss would grow. After this is all dry I spray a bit of heavily diluted PVA over it all to seal in the scenery.

As a finishing touch I a layer of AK Interactive Diorama Water Gel Swamp Green (AK8006) in the centre of the altar. Once this is dry it should be finished. Once this was dry it gave me an effect I was totally not expecting or wanted. So I managed to get most of it out with only minor damage to the paint. So I patched up the paintwork with the same colours I used earlier. So now to create this water effect I used AK Interactive Diorama Puddles (AK8028) mixed with a bit of Vallejo Airbrush Thinner (71.161).

This is the Summoning Gate from Fenris Games.

This is the Summoning Gate from Fenris Games. I started with a 100mm MDF base, I bevelled the edges and sealed it using filler. I then glued it to the base. I smoothed the transition between the resin piece and the base with some DAS modelling clay.

I primed the whole model in black and painted it with a coat of Vallejo Model Air Rust (71.080) with my airbrush.

The stonework first got an overbrush coat of Vallejo Model Color Basalt Grey (70.869) and then a coat of Secret Weapon Wash Algea (W013). After this I applied a heavy drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Medium Sea Grey (70.870). In hindsight I should have waited longer for the wash to fully dry before doing this. I then applied a drybrush of Vallejo Model Air White Grey (71.119) over the stonework.

I basecoated the skulls in Vallejo Game Color Bonewhite (72.034) and then coated them with Vallejo Game Color Sepia Shade (73.200). After this was dry they received a drybrush of Vallejo Game Color Bonewhite (72.034). Now a coat of gloss varnish for protection and a coat of anti-shine to remove the shine of the gloss varnish.

I covered most of the base, at least where I wanted flocking, in a watered down coat of PVA. I then followed up by flocking the base with the same 2 colours as I did my table. After the glue dried I shook off the excess and started adding tufts and little bits of clump foliage where the glue didn’t really take that well in order to fill up the gaps. I also added some tufts and clump foliage where I thought it would look good. I then added some light flock on places where I think moss would grow. After this is all dry I spray a bit of heavily diluted PVA over it all to seal in the scenery.

As a finishing touch I added some AK Interactive Diorama Puddles (AK8028) in the pits in the standing stone. Once this is dry it should be finished.

This a small bit of woods done for my gaming table.

This is the first small woods piece for my table, I first cut and bevelled a base out of ePVC foamboard for it. I then started cutting and carving little bits of expanded polystyrene to create some elevations. On top of that I glued bases for trees to go in. I covered the woods in a layer of filler to smooth out the surface, now when it’s dry I can start painting.

I sanded the surface a little to get rid of any big anomalies. I then tried to paint the hill with my airbrush using the same paint I used to paint my table. Not a great success. I had to thin the paint which at that point was just tinted thinner before I was happy enough to put it through my airbrush. I need to either use a proper airbrush paint or go for cheap spray cans for this.

The rocks first got an overbrush coat of Vallejo Model Color Basalt Grey (70.869) and then coated the rocks with a coat of Secret Weapon Wash Algea (W013). After this I applied a heavy drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Medium Sea Grey (70.870) followed by a drybrush of Vallejo Model Air White Grey (71.119).

I added a bit of Vallejo Earth Texture Dark Earth (26.218) in the lowered centre area of the woods. After it dried I added a drybrush of Vallejo Panzer Aces Light Mud (70.315) over the earth and when that was dry I added a layer of AK Interactive Diorama Terrains Muddy Ground (AK8017) in the centre of the earth texture.

I covered most of the earth with some watered down PVA glue and I did the base layer of flock with the 3 tones. The darker in areas of shade, the lighter in areas of light and then a mid tone covering it all after that. Before the flock I did sprinkle a couple of leaves around the trees as well. When this was dry and the excess was shaken off I added some clump foliage and tufts around places to hide damages or just where I felt it would fit. After this has dried I sprayed it with watered down PVA to seal everything in and once that is dry I added a bit of AK Interactive Diorama Puddles (AK8028) on the ground in the centre to create some puddles. When this has dried the piece should be done.

This is my hill for my gaming table.