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Blipvertus multigame Dwarf army

Blipvertus multigame Dwarf army

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Project Blog by blipvertus

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About the Project

It started out simple. I wanted a Viking army for Saga but I wanted it to be different because everyone does Vikings. So instead I did seven other armies. I finally hit upon the idea of using Dwarves as my Viking stand in. Dwarves are also a part of Norse mythology and they’re ill tempered and armed with axes. Seems like a natural fit! When Oathmark came out with a plastic Dwarf infantry box I found everything I’d need for a Saga army. You can make dwarves armed with bows, something that is pretty rare for most Dwarf models, as well as spear and axe armed dwarves. You can also equip figures with a weapon in each hand making them a great substitute for Berserkers. One of the nice things about this box is all the figures are wearing chainmail and to me, that’s quintessentially dwarfish. Originally I was going to make the spear armed dwarves my warriors and my axe and sword armed dwarves as my hearthguard. But Oathmark came out with a box of Heavy Infantry Dwarves so I may use them as hearthguard. These also feature chainmail but also have segmented armor and some platemail. They also feature a lot of steel face masks integrated into their helmets. This is something I love because Tolkien mentions something similar in The Silmarillion about the dwarves in Middlearth. With my Viking army all planned out and a couple of boxes of minis, I was set. Huzzah! Then Age of Magic arrived. And Warlords of Erewhon. The unit options in both games increased the variety of units a Dwarf army could take. So I set about trying to find suitable minis that would look good together. I found a nice set of crossbow armed dwarves from Conqueror. Conquer also had dwarves armed with two-handed axes. Both units are also in chainmail thus making it easier for them to blend in. I then found some chainmail wearing handgunners from Mirliton. Because I’m getting minis from several different ranges I worried about how to make them look like a cohesive army. I asked our local guru, Sean Twiddy. He’s one of the smart guys that teaches art at one of the local universities and uses miniature painting in some of his lessons. Sean is also an avid Saga player. He suggested using the same color pallet for the whole army in order to tie it all together. So I tried it and painted up a test color scheme and I think it’ll work. The header/thumbnail photo is of the test minis. I’m going to try to document how I got to those finished images. I’m going to try to show and explain every step as well as show the sources of the materials used.

This Project is Active

First unit of spearmen done.

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Once the shields were finished, I test fitted the shields to the figures. I then used a file to remove paint on the arm and on the shield so that only bare plastic is exposed. I then glued the shields in place with Testors styrene plastic glue. Once dry, I sprayed all the minis with Army Painter Ant Shine Matt Varnish.

Nine down. Seventeen to go. Nine down. Seventeen to go.

Flags!

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Well, just the one flag. After cutting the flag out I used a plain sheet of white stationery and cut it slightly larger than the transfer. Well, just the one flag. After cutting the flag out I used a plain sheet of white stationery and cut it slightly larger than the transfer.
I then peeled off the plastic cover and applied the transfer face down pressing it firmly onto the paper. I then wetted the back of the transfer sheet and peeled it off. I then left this alone until it was dry.  I then peeled off the plastic cover and applied the transfer face down pressing it firmly onto the paper. I then wetted the back of the transfer sheet and peeled it off. I then left this alone until it was dry.
I then trimmed the paper as closely as possible to the transfer using the smallest pair of scissors I could find. I then pre shaped the flag by wrapping it around some paint  brush handles. I then trimmed the paper as closely as possible to the transfer using the smallest pair of scissors I could find. I then pre shaped the flag by wrapping it around some paint brush handles.
I then used Elmer’s glue thinned slightly with water then throughly covered the back with a brush. I then wrapped the flag around the banner pole and lined up the edges and shaped the flag, again using a pair brush handle. I then used Elmer’s glue thinned slightly with water then throughly covered the back with a brush. I then wrapped the flag around the banner pole and lined up the edges and shaped the flag, again using a pair brush handle.

Once the flag had dried,  I painted the edges where white was showing with Vallejo Prussian Blue or Army Painter Plate Mail Metal.

With everything now done, I sprayed all the spearmen and the banner bearer with Army Painter with Anti Shine Matt Varnish. With everything now done, I sprayed all the spearmen and the banner bearer with Army Painter with Anti Shine Matt Varnish.

Shields Pt 3

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With the transfers in place I touched up the rims so there’s no gaps between the transfers and rims. With the transfers in place I touched up the rims so there’s no gaps between the transfers and rims.
I then washed the rims and boss with GW Nuln Oil. I then washed the rims and boss with GW Nuln Oil.
This shot is a shot of the back of the shields before any touch ups. This shot is a shot of the back of the shields before any touch ups.
After clean up the rims and shield backs I washed the rims it’s GW Nuln Oil and the woode with GW Seraphim Sepia. After clean up the rims and shield backs I washed the rims it’s GW Nuln Oil and the woode with GW Seraphim Sepia.

Shields Pt 2

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The decals or transfers are from Little Big Man Studios however these specific decals are not available from the LBMS site but only through Oathmark. I’m not exactly sure why.

In any event, the LBMS instructions are quite good. My specific suggestion is that as soon as you receive the transfer sheet, open the package and find an inconspicuous corner of the sheet and very carefully peel back the plastic covering, but do not entirely remove it. Put it gently back in place. By doing this you’ll make it easier to remove the plastic later and make it less likely that the transfer will fuse to the plastic. And by putting the plastic back in place you’ll protect the transfer until ready for use.

Cut the transfer out and then carefully the transfer as close as possible to the design. Cut the transfer out and then carefully the transfer as close as possible to the design.
Dry fit the transfer to the shield to make sure it’s the right size.  One annoying fact of the Oathmark dwarves is that there are several different shield sizes. Fortunately the LBMS transfers are made in all the right sizes but you’ll have to marry up the right sized transfer to the shield. Dry fit the transfer to the shield to make sure it’s the right size. One annoying fact of the Oathmark dwarves is that there are several different shield sizes. Fortunately the LBMS transfers are made in all the right sizes but you’ll have to marry up the right sized transfer to the shield.
Once you’re satisfied carefully remove the plastic covering the transfer. The now exposed transfer is sticky and you want to put the sticky size down and in contact with the shield face. Once in place, press down firmly. Once in place, apply water to the transfer paper. Get it thoroughly soaked, then press down firmly again. Then peel off the wet paper.  Once you’re satisfied carefully remove the plastic covering the transfer. The now exposed transfer is sticky and you want to put the sticky size down and in contact with the shield face. Once in place, press down firmly. Once in place, apply water to the transfer paper. Get it thoroughly soaked, then press down firmly again. Then peel off the wet paper.
With the transfer now in place and exposed, use Micro Sol by Micromark if necessary, to help the transfer conform to any raised areas on the shield. Micro Sol essentially softens the transfer film allowing it to conform to contours. With the transfer now in place and exposed, use Micro Sol by Micromark if necessary, to help the transfer conform to any raised areas on the shield. Micro Sol essentially softens the transfer film allowing it to conform to contours.

Shields Pt 1

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After cutting the shields off the sprues and doing some sanding, I affixed them to a paint stirrer and sprayed the backs Army Painter Fur Brown. After cutting the shields off the sprues and doing some sanding, I affixed them to a paint stirrer and sprayed the backs Army Painter Fur Brown.
I then flipped them over and sprayed the fronts with Army Painter Plate Mail Metal. I then flipped them over and sprayed the fronts with Army Painter Plate Mail Metal.
I then hand painted the fronts white leaving the boss and rim in metal. I then hand painted the fronts white leaving the boss and rim in metal.

Spearmen Pt 8

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Washes done, I next added grass tufts and cork “rocks,” both from Army Painter.

Next up, shields!

Spearmen Pt 7

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Beards done, touch ups and washes to go. Beards done, touch ups and washes to go.

Spearmen Pt 6

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Just the beards left to do and touch ups and the basic painting is done. After that, washes. Just the beards left to do and touch ups and the basic painting is done. After that, washes.

Spearmen Pt 6

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Just the beards left to do and touch ups and the basic painting is done. After that, washes. Just the beards left to do and touch ups and the basic painting is done. After that, washes.

Spearman Pt 5

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Just a general update. I dry brushed the base Army Painter Skeleton Bone, painted the boots Vallejo Flat Brown, the pants Army Painter Desert Yellow, the leather belts Vallejo Mahogany Brown, the dagger grips Vallejo Brass and the chainmail Army Painter Plate Mail Metal and the face and hands Vallejo Dark FleshJust a general update. I dry brushed the base Army Painter Skeleton Bone, painted the boots Vallejo Flat Brown, the pants Army Painter Desert Yellow, the leather belts Vallejo Mahogany Brown, the dagger grips Vallejo Brass and the chainmail Army Painter Plate Mail Metal and the face and hands Vallejo Dark Flesh

Spearmen Pt 4

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Painted all the bases Army Painter Leather Brown. Next, a light drybrush. Painted all the bases Army Painter Leather Brown. Next, a light drybrush.

Spearmen Pt 3

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After filling in the bases with basing compound I allowed it to dry overnight. I then brushed glue onto the bases then dipped the minis into a tub of sand and shook off the loose sand. After filling in the bases with basing compound I allowed it to dry overnight. I then brushed glue onto the bases then dipped the minis into a tub of sand and shook off the loose sand.
I then allowed the glue to dry overnight. I then used the dental probe to scrape off errant bits of sand. Once satisfied, I mounted the minis onto some wooden paint sticks. I then allowed the glue to dry overnight. I then used the dental probe to scrape off errant bits of sand. Once satisfied, I mounted the minis onto some wooden paint sticks.
I then gave them all a coat of Army Painter Wolf Grey. I then gave them all a coat of Army Painter Wolf Grey.

I’ll most probably break up this mass into three smaller groups and assembly line paint them to completion before moving onto the next group.

I generally find groups of 8 to 10 minis is small enough not to get overwhelmed by sheer numbers but big enough to feel good about knocking them out that I’ll stay motivated and press on to the next group.

Your mileage may vary.

Spearmen Pt 2

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I built 24 spearmen and one banner bearer. I built 24 spearmen and one banner bearer.
After assembly I used Litko 25mm magnets, peeled off the paper backing ...After assembly I used Litko 25mm magnets, peeled off the paper backing ...
and added a drop of super glue and glued them to the base. I’ve done this to the minis I’ve already completed and painted the edges of the base again so they all blend in. and added a drop of super glue and glued them to the base. I’ve done this to the minis I’ve already completed and painted the edges of the base again so they all blend in.
Saga allows you to have a single banner in your army. It can either be with your Warlord or with one of your units. Saga allows you to have a single banner in your army. It can either be with your Warlord or with one of your units.
Saga doesn’t use unit leaders but Warlords of Erehwon does. So these figures with the fancy helmet crest will be the unit leaders. I may add pennants to their spears as well but that’s a few steps off. Saga doesn’t use unit leaders but Warlords of Erehwon does. So these figures with the fancy helmet crest will be the unit leaders. I may add pennants to their spears as well but that’s a few steps off.

The Army to Date

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I’m still assembling the spearmen but here’s a glamour shot of everything finished to date. I’m still assembling the spearmen but here’s a glamour shot of everything finished to date.

Spearmen Pt 1

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The bulk of army is going to be 24 spearmen. Dwarfmen?

The plan is is to build and prime them all at once, then paint them in either three groups of eight or two groups of twelve. After they’re done, I’ll do the shields en mass.

One done! 23 to go! One done! 23 to go!

The Burrower Pt 5

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After pulling off the masking tape I did notice a slight ridge of paint from the overspray. I used some very fine sandpaper to sand the ridges off. I then repainted the areas I sanded. Because of this there were going to be variable tones.

This actually turned out to be a happy accident so I repainted other areas as well, then reapplied the washes This gave a nice variation in tone for the wood which I rather like.

After washing everything in GW Agrax Earthshade, I dry brushed the drill with Army Painter Plate Mail Metal and did a small highlight of the rivets with Vallejo brass. I painted the base Leather Brown, washed with Agrax Earthshade and then dry brushed with Army Painter Skeleton Bone. After washing everything in GW Agrax Earthshade, I dry brushed the drill with Army Painter Plate Mail Metal and did a small highlight of the rivets with Vallejo brass. I painted the base Leather Brown, washed with Agrax Earthshade and then dry brushed with Army Painter Skeleton Bone.

I added some rust and chipping to the curved metal panels by using some torn up spongy foam and dipping it in Vallejo Flat Brown for the rust and Army Painter Plate Mail Metal for the wear and chipping.

The Burrower Pt 4

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Here I’ve done a few touch ups while the masking tape is still in place. Here I’ve done a few touch ups while the masking tape is still in place.
With the tape now removed, you can see a few places where the black seeped under the tape but fortunately not many. I’ll clean that up and move on to the next stage. With the tape now removed, you can see a few places where the black seeped under the tape but fortunately not many. I’ll clean that up and move on to the next stage.

The Burrower Pt 4

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I painted the rivets with Vallejo Brass. Man, that’s a lot of rivets! I painted the rivets with Vallejo Brass. Man, that’s a lot of rivets!
I painted one of the curved panels in Army Painter Wolf Grey as a test. Not sure if I want to keep  it or not. What do y’all think? I painted one of the curved panels in Army Painter Wolf Grey as a test. Not sure if I want to keep it or not. What do y’all think?

The Burrower Pt 3

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I painted the metal al bands using Army Painter Rough Iron. It’s not our black but close and has some metallics in it. It’s almost a bronze color. It doesn’t show up well on the camera though. I painted the metal al bands using Army Painter Rough Iron. It’s not our black but close and has some metallics in it. It’s almost a bronze color. It doesn’t show up well on the camera though.
After painting the bands I painted the drill and the steel plates with Army Painter Plate Metal. I’m unsure of how to paint the curved panels. After painting the bands I painted the drill and the steel plates with Army Painter Plate Metal. I’m unsure of how to paint the curved panels.

The Burrower Pt 2

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After letting the primer dry throughly I used Tamiya masking tape to mask off the metal bands. After letting the primer dry throughly I used Tamiya masking tape to mask off the metal bands.
After masking off the bands I re-sprayed with the primer. This second coat over the masking tape will act kind of lake a paint barrier and make bleeding under the masking tape less likely. It won’t eliminate it entirely but will make it less likely and will reduce the amount of touch ups. After masking off the bands I re-sprayed with the primer. This second coat over the masking tape will act kind of lake a paint barrier and make bleeding under the masking tape less likely. It won’t eliminate it entirely but will make it less likely and will reduce the amount of touch ups.

The Burrower Pt 1

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Ironclad Miniatures makes a really nice range of steampunk vehicles and I picked up this tunneling machine for my Dwarf army. For those interested it’s a Legendary Warmachine for the Masters of the Underearth.

A three part resin piece, assembly is pretty straight forward however you will need to sand or file it a bit as the pieces do not match perfectly. Test fit each piece and sand or file just a little bit before test fitting again. I just used Zap a Gap to glue the pieces together. A three part resin piece, assembly is pretty straight forward however you will need to sand or file it a bit as the pieces do not match perfectly. Test fit each piece and sand or file just a little bit before test fitting again. I just used Zap a Gap to glue the pieces together.
As the wood is going to be the major feature I decided on Army Painter Fur Brown as the primer color. As the wood is going to be the major feature I decided on Army Painter Fur Brown as the primer color.

Stone Elementals done

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I tried a couple of different things to make the figures more interesting and had several failures. Below are the final results.

I washed the gray with GW Nuln Oil then did a few touch ups with the Army Painter Crystal Blue. I then painted a few stone Army Painter Leather Brown and washed them with GW Seraphim Sepia. I then dry brushed with GW Dawnstone. I washed the gray with GW Nuln Oil then did a few touch ups with the Army Painter Crystal Blue. I then painted a few stone Army Painter Leather Brown and washed them with GW Seraphim Sepia. I then dry brushed with GW Dawnstone.
I’d previously dry brushed the blue crystals with white. I painted them over and then I washed the blue crystals with GW Guilliman blue wash and then dry brushed with Army Painter Voidshield Blue. I’d previously dry brushed the blue crystals with white. I painted them over and then I washed the blue crystals with GW Guilliman blue wash and then dry brushed with Army Painter Voidshield Blue.
The whole unit with a Wizard for scale. The whole unit with a Wizard for scale.

Stone Elementals Update

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I used GW Eshin Grey as the base coat over the AP Crystal Blue primer then dry brushed with GW Dawnstone. I then dry brushed the crystals with white. I used GW Eshin Grey as the base coat over the AP Crystal Blue primer then dry brushed with GW Dawnstone. I then dry brushed the crystals with white.

I’m not entirely happy with the results. I feel like it needs something else.

Perhaps painting a few of the stones different colors? Maybe using different colors of washes?

Lesser Stone Elementals

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I puzzled over how to add creatures into a Dwarven army as I didn’t think most natural creatures would fit the theme. I was able find some elementals from Deep Cuts that would suit the bill for more magical creatures and decided to use them.

I imagine that right before a battle, the army’s wizards conjure up a suitable number of elementals that are then turned loose on the enemy.

Technically called a Medium Earth Elemental, these minis are from Wiz Kids Parhfinder range.  Technically called a Medium Earth Elemental, these minis are from Wiz Kids Parhfinder range.
Here I’ve based the minis already, leveled the base with basing compound and affixed the sand to the base. Here I’ve based the minis already, leveled the base with basing compound and affixed the sand to the base.
I’ve primed them using Army Painter Crystal Blue. This is the same color used for the orb of the wizard’s staff. I’ve primed them using Army Painter Crystal Blue. This is the same color used for the orb of the wizard’s staff.
Here I’ve started to dry brush the mini with GW Eshin Grey. Here I’ve started to dry brush the mini with GW Eshin Grey.

Archers done!

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With the archers done, I’m going to do some magical creatures next.

Archers update

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Base colors done, most washes done. Just a few more steps and the painting portion will be done. Base colors done, most washes done. Just a few more steps and the painting portion will be done.

Back from hiatus

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After a brief hiatus to work on another project, I painted the chainmail on the archers. A couple of more details and then touch ups to go. After a brief hiatus to work on another project, I painted the chainmail on the archers. A couple of more details and then touch ups to go.

Another Archers update and a thank you.

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In other news, still painting the archers. I made really good progress today. Just one more base color to lay down, then the usual touch ups.

Boots, pants, arrow shafts, belts, beards, hands and faces done. Chainmail next and then touch ups. Boots, pants, arrow shafts, belts, beards, hands and faces done. Chainmail next and then touch ups.
Thanks for the Golden Button! It’s fun to be recognized especially given how much talent is here. Guess I’ve got to keep painting, don’t I? Thanks for the Golden Button! It’s fun to be recognized especially given how much talent is here. Guess I’ve got to keep painting, don’t I?

Archers WIP

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Not a lot of progress, but some. Primed and bases painted. Not a lot of progress, but some. Primed and bases painted.

Archers

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Up next will be a 12 man unit of archers. That’s a 1 point unit of levy for Saga. Warlords of Erehwon typically has 5 man units, that can be expanded, and there’s a unit leader that has slightly different stats. I’ll make two of the figures with helmets and designate them as unit leaders. The rest will have soft caps, hoods or will be bare headed. Saga doesn’t have unit leaders so the helmets will just add some variety to the figures.

I built these by first gluing the bodies to the bases, then adding the left (bow) arms, then the right arms then adding the heads afterwards. I let all of those parts dry and then added the quivers last. Once that was done, I filled in the bases with base render. I built these by first gluing the bodies to the bases, then adding the left (bow) arms, then the right arms then adding the heads afterwards. I let all of those parts dry and then added the quivers last. Once that was done, I filled in the bases with base render.
Close up of the test mini. One down, eleven to go! Close up of the test mini. One down, eleven to go!

Lieutenant/Sniper Pt 3 - Glamour Shots

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After painting, washing and full coating, I used GW ‘Ardcoat gloss on the glasses.  The glasses are painted with Army Painter Voidshield Blue.

Army Painter Voidshield Blue was used for the glasses. Army Painter Voidshield Blue was used for the glasses.

Lieutenant/Sniper Pt 2

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The rest of the photos are just work-in-progress shots.

Lieutenant/Sniper Pt 1

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Saga: Age of Magic has a Lieutenant unit. The dwarvish equivalent is an Alchemist who is described as using volatile ranged weapons. I looked around for awhile before finally settling on this sniper figure from Heresy Miniatures.

This minis can be built in several different ways including pistol armed, or as a miner with a miners helmet and headlamp and a pick axe.

The figure has one foot on a rock so I decided to build on that a little.

I had some cork from Tabletop Scenics that I decided to make into some rocks. I had some cork from Tabletop Scenics that I decided to make into some rocks.
I broke up a portion of the cork by just snapping off the edges until it looked right. I then glued the cork to the base. I broke up a portion of the cork by just snapping off the edges until it looked right. I then glued the cork to the base.
Next, I drilled holes into the feet of the mini.Next, I drilled holes into the feet of the mini.
I then used some leftover wire from the steel spear I used to make the Shielmaiden’s banner pole and glued them into the holes. I then used some leftover wire from the steel spear I used to make the Shielmaiden’s banner pole and glued them into the holes.
I then drilled holes in the cork and then glued the figure in place. After the body was in place, I glued the arms, head and back pack.I then drilled holes in the cork and then glued the figure in place. After the body was in place, I glued the arms, head and back pack.

Shieldmaiden Unit

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Adding a banner Part 3

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Once dry, trim the paper as close as possible to the transfer. Once dry, trim the paper as close as possible to the transfer.
Pre-form the transfer by wrapping it around the banner pole. Pre-form the transfer by wrapping it around the banner pole.
Coat the paper with glue, I used Elmer’s Glue, then wrap the transfer around the pole. Carefully align the edges before the glue sets. Coat the paper with glue, I used Elmer’s Glue, then wrap the transfer around the pole. Carefully align the edges before the glue sets.

While the glue is still wet, use either a paint brush handle or small wooden dowel to add a wavy appearance to the banner.  Do this by wrapping the banner around it.

Let the glue dry, trim again if necessary. Paint the edges too. I used Vallejo Ghost Grey on the edges.

Adding the banner Part 2

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Use a small brush and carefully add water to the paperback of the transfer. Keep a paper towel handy and try not to get water on the white paper the transfer is being mounted to. If you do, just blot it up. Use a small brush and carefully add water to the paperback of the transfer. Keep a paper towel handy and try not to get water on the white paper the transfer is being mounted to. If you do, just blot it up.
After a few moments, the transfer’s backing should slide away easily. After a few moments, the transfer’s backing should slide away easily.
Set aside to dry. Set aside to dry.

Adding the banner Part 1

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The banners and transfers are from Little Big Man Studios and are specifically made for Oarthmark, but you won’t find them on their website. They’re sold through Northstar. I’d include a link but apparently the anti-spam software is super sensitive to hyperlinks.

The banners have very good instructions and what follows is basically those instructions with a few tips.

You can mount the banner on any of several different materials including thin lead foil. If you do use lead foil, prime it white first. I’m going to use white paper but otherwise, the steps are the same for both.

Cut out the banner you intend to use. Don’t worry about trimming it closely, that’ll come later. Cut out the banner you intend to use. Don’t worry about trimming it closely, that’ll come later.
Cut out a piece of white paper larger than the transfer.  Cut out a piece of white paper larger than the transfer.
The transfer is protected by a thin plastic cover. You’ll need to carefully peel it off. The transfer is protected by a thin plastic cover. You’ll need to carefully peel it off.
The now exposed transfer has a sticky surface. Place it sticky side down on the paper. Then press down making sure there are no air bubbles. The now exposed transfer has a sticky surface. Place it sticky side down on the paper. Then press down making sure there are no air bubbles.

Shieldmaiden update

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The unit leader’s cloak was painted Vallejo Ghost Gray, then washed with GW Apothecary White contrast paint. The other two figures with cloaks were painted with Vallejo Mahogany Brown and waded with GW Seraphim Sepia. The light color on the top of one of the figure holding two weapons is Army Painter Skeleton Bone washed with GW Seraphim Sepia. The unit leader’s cloak was painted Vallejo Ghost Gray, then washed with GW Apothecary White contrast paint. The other two figures with cloaks were painted with Vallejo Mahogany Brown and waded with GW Seraphim Sepia. The light color on the top of one of the figure holding two weapons is Army Painter Skeleton Bone washed with GW Seraphim Sepia.

More Shieldmaidens

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Painting and washes done, I just need to base and add transfers and a banner.

I added a shield to the Valkyrie figure, second row far right. The shield was a spare from the Conqueror Miniatures two handed axemen unit.I added a shield to the Valkyrie figure, second row far right. The shield was a spare from the Conqueror Miniatures two handed axemen unit.

Shieldmaidens WIP

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Just a brief update on the Shieldmaiden unit. First three painted and washed. Still have bases to finish and a transfer to add to the unit leader’s shield.

These figures are from Bad Squiddo Games. The figure holding the banner pole is a conversion of the torch bearer figure. These figures are from Bad Squiddo Games. The figure holding the banner pole is a conversion of the torch bearer figure.

Destruction Teams

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There’s a certain point in painting minis where it just seems to come together and it looks like you envisioned it. It’s different with every minis. In this case it’s when I was about half way through applying the washes. There were still a few more steps to do after that, but that was the “ah-ha” moment.

Theses are really lovely little minis and I’m pretty pleased with how they turned out.

General Updates

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I’ve started work on the destruction teams, the shield maidens unit and the Lieutenant (sniper). Below is just a general update. I’ll probably do the destruction teams first, to completion, then the Shieldmaiden unit then the sniper.

I’ll show each step so some of the photos will be duplicated but they’ll be in order. The above photos are just where I’m at today.

Minor Modifications

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I took the female dwarf with the torch and cut off the torch. I  saved the flame portion of the torch for another mini. After cutting off the torch, I smoothed things down with a file and then used a  drill to make a hole in the hand. I then found a steel spear, cut it to length, then glued it in place.

You can get wire spears from several sources but these came from Northstar. I cut the spear to be about the same length as the spears of the Oathmark figures.

Link to Northstar: https://www.northstarfigures.com/prod.php?prod=536

Defend the Beer!

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GW Agrax Earthshade. GW Agrax Earthshade.

I dry brushed the metal bands with GW Eshin Gray and the brass fittings were washed in Seraphim Sepia.

I tried washing the wood with Seraphim Sepia but didn’t like the result. I then washed it again with GW Agrax Earthshade.

As mentioned previously the barrels are from WizKids Deep Cut line.

New Minis

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While waiting for some paint to dry I snapped a photo of the next minis in the que. I’ll start them after the objective markers are done.

The mins below are from Stonehaven Miniatures : https://www.stonehavenmini.com/collections/dwarves?page=2

 

These minis will be the Destruction Teams for the Saga army. These minis will be the Destruction Teams for the Saga army.

Bad Squiddo Games recently did a Kickstarter for dwarves and Amazons. I’ll use some of the minis to form a Shieldmaiden unit for my Viking army.

Link thingy: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/badsquiddogames/amazons-and-dwarves-quality-28mm-female-miniatures/description

I plan to convert the torch bearer to be a banner bearer.I plan to convert the torch bearer to be a banner bearer.

Beer Barrel Update

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I base coated the barrels using Army Painter Fur Brown primer. I base coated the barrels using Army Painter Fur Brown primer.
After priming, I painted the base with Leather Brown, dry brushed with Skeleton bone, then painted the bands black and the spigots and plugs with Vallejo Brass. I’ll dry brush next then do the touch ups later.  After priming, I painted the base with Leather Brown, dry brushed with Skeleton bone, then painted the bands black and the spigots and plugs with Vallejo Brass. I’ll dry brush next then do the touch ups later.

Beer!

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These will be objective markers. The bases are 30mm plywood from Litko. After glueing the barrels to the bases I gloss coated them to seal the plywood. The barrels are from WizKids Deep Cut line. These will be objective markers. The bases are 30mm plywood from Litko. After glueing the barrels to the bases I gloss coated them to seal the plywood. The barrels are from WizKids Deep Cut line.

The Wizard

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The orb and the beak

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The orb in the Wizard’s staff is Crystal Blue. I tried a highlight of Army Painter Electric Blue but I didn’t like it. I painted over that then used a small bit of white. I then added the basing and then did a dullcoat.  After that dried, I then used GW ‘Ardcoat to add a gloss effect to the orb and the crows beak. The orb in the Wizard’s staff is Crystal Blue. I tried a highlight of Army Painter Electric Blue but I didn’t like it. I painted over that then used a small bit of white. I then added the basing and then did a dullcoat. After that dried, I then used GW ‘Ardcoat to add a gloss effect to the orb and the crows beak.

The wizard’s robes

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The trim is Vallejo Brass. After washing the cloth with Guilliman Blue glaze I highlighted it with GW Fenrisian Gray. The trim is Vallejo Brass. After washing the cloth with Guilliman Blue glaze I highlighted it with GW Fenrisian Gray.

The Crow

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The crow was dry brushed with GW Dawnstone then washed with Nuln Oil. The beak was painted black, dry brushed with Eshin Grey then washed with Nuln Oil. The crow was dry brushed with GW Dawnstone then washed with Nuln Oil. The beak was painted black, dry brushed with Eshin Grey then washed with Nuln Oil.

Wizard’s beard

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I used GW Apothecary White contrast paint as a wash on the beard. The ornament in the braid is Vallejo Brass washed with Seraphim Sepia. I used GW Apothecary White contrast paint as a wash on the beard. The ornament in the braid is Vallejo Brass washed with Seraphim Sepia.

Crossbow unit done

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With this unit done, I’ll do one a unit of bowmen and that’ll give me all three options available to the army. In Saga, I probably wouldn’t run more than one missile armed unit. In Lords of Erewhon the units are smaller so I might run two or maybe three missile units. With this unit done, I’ll do one a unit of bowmen and that’ll give me all three options available to the army. In Saga, I probably wouldn’t run more than one missile armed unit. In Lords of Erewhon the units are smaller so I might run two or maybe three missile units.
The army to date. The army to date.

Chainmail and helmets

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With the armor painted everything else will be touch ups and corrections. With the armor painted everything else will be touch ups and corrections.

I’m really enjoying the Wizard figure.

The figure on the left is one of the brand new female Dwarves from Bad Squiddo’s recent Kickstarter. I’ll use them for a Shieldmaiden unit. The figure on the left is one of the brand new female Dwarves from Bad Squiddo’s recent Kickstarter. I’ll use them for a Shieldmaiden unit.

Orb, Beards, Brass and Crossbows

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Army Painter Crystal Blue for the wizard’s orb. I’ll use this color later on some of the magical creatures. Army Painter Crystal Blue for the wizard’s orb. I’ll use this color later on some of the magical creatures.
GW Eshin Grey for the wizard’s familiar. GW Eshin Grey for the wizard’s familiar.
Battle Wizard Battle Wizard
Beards and Crossbows done. Beards and Crossbows done.
Vallejo Mahogany Brown for the Crossbows. Vallejo Mahogany Brown for the Crossbows.
Brass for the sword hilts and sword sheath hardware. Brass for the sword hilts and sword sheath hardware.

Beards and Fletching

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Army Painter Matt White for the wizard’s beard and the fletching (feathers) of the crossbow quarrels. Army Painter Matt White for the wizard’s beard and the fletching (feathers) of the crossbow quarrels.

Progress Report

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Today I painted and dry brushed the bases, then the boots, trousers, leather belts, crossbow shafts, hands and faces.

I decided to also start working on the metal Wizard from Oathmark.

Crossbow ... men?

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The next unit will be some crossbow armed dwarves. The paints and techniques will be the same so mostly I’ll just post progress updates.

Crossbow ... men?

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The next unit will be some crossbow armed dwarves. The paints and techniques will be the same so mostly I’ll just post progress updates.

Crossbow ... men?

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The next unit will be some crossbow armed dwarves. The paints and techniques will be the same so mostly I’ll just post progress updates.

Crossbow ... men?

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The next unit will be some crossbow armed dwarves. The paints and techniques will be the same so mostly I’ll just post progress updates.

Final Step

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Testors Model Masters Flat Lacquer  This will help protect the figure and provide a universal flat sheen to all the figures. Testors Model Masters Flat Lacquer This will help protect the figure and provide a universal flat sheen to all the figures.

Final shot of the completed unit and a comparison shot to other minis. The Greek on the left is a plastic figure from Victrix and the one on the right is a Dark Age plastic figure from Gripping Beast.

Glamour Shots

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Rocks and Grass

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The finishing touches to the bases are some cork bits and some static grass tufts. Both are glued in place with Elmer’s glue.

Army Painter Battlefield Rocks. Basically bits of cork.

Army Painter tufts. Army Painter tufts.

Add some dust!

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Army Painter Skeleton BoneArmy Painter Skeleton Bone
I used a very old brush and then did a dry brush to add some highlights. I used a very old brush and then did a dry brush to add some highlights.

Add some dirt!

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Army Painter Leather Brown Army Painter Leather Brown
Use an old brush to paint the base. The rough texture will ruin a good brush. Use an old brush to paint the base. The rough texture will ruin a good brush.

Add some dirt!

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Army Painter Leather Brown Army Painter Leather Brown
Use an old brush to paint the base. The rough texture will ruin a good brush. Use an old brush to paint the base. The rough texture will ruin a good brush.

Oops!

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So I saved painting and dry brushing of the  bases for last. Probably better to paint and dry brush the bases first and then paint the rest of the figure. The issue is that unless you’re very careful, the dry brushing will probably go onto the boots. This might be a good idea if you want to carry up the dust to the lower part of the figure. But I wanted the boots to contrast with the base as much as possible so I wound up touching them up after the dry brushing.

Lesson learned.

Highlights/Touch Ups

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I’m going to go back and reapply some Wolf Grey on the cloth areas and leave just a little bit of the glaze.

I’m also going to go back to the brass studs in the jerkins and just do a little highlight. Tedious but worth it.

Brass highlighted and sleeves touched up. Brass highlighted and sleeves touched up.

Glaze - cloth sleeves

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GW Guilliman Blue glazeGW Guilliman Blue glaze
This is such a small area I really don’t want to cover the whole area so I just did a thin pin wash where the sleeves meet the armor and the gloves. This is such a small area I really don’t want to cover the whole area so I just did a thin pin wash where the sleeves meet the armor and the gloves.

Washes - armor

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GW Nuln Oil shadeGW Nuln Oil shade
Because the areas of the washes are getting smaller you’ll need to take care to really control where the shade goes. Don’t load too much into the brush. You can do additional washes. And if you do wind up with too much, just use a clean brush to soak up excess if it’s still wet. You can also touch things up after the wash dries and reapply the base color. Because the areas of the washes are getting smaller you’ll need to take care to really control where the shade goes. Don’t load too much into the brush. You can do additional washes. And if you do wind up with too much, just use a clean brush to soak up excess if it’s still wet. You can also touch things up after the wash dries and reapply the base color.

Washes - beards, hair, leather and brass

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GW Seraphim Sepia shadeGW Seraphim Sepia shade
Washes - beards, hair, leather and brass

Washes - Face

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GW Reikland FleshGW Reikland Flesh

I apologize for the images as it’s just too small to make out the subtle details but they are there.

Sleeves, Muzzles and touch ups

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Army Painter Wolf Grey for the sleeves. This step is mostly for touch ups as this is also the primer color. Army Painter Wolf Grey for the sleeves. This step is mostly for touch ups as this is also the primer color.
Army Painter Matt Black for the muzzles. Army Painter Matt Black for the muzzles.

As the base color is Wolf Grey at this point I’m only doing touch ups of the sleeves. The last color applied to the minis itself is for the muzzles of the gun barrels.

I do try to be as neat as possible while painting but let’s face facts, you’re always going to “paint outside the lines.”  I try to plan the painting so every new color I add covers up the mistakes of the previous application.

The rest of the painting is going to be touch ups. I’ll paint the bases later and talk about that in a different update.

Powder horn

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Army Painter Skeleton Bone Army Painter Skeleton Bone
Only a few figures have powder horns. This particular paint will require multiple thin layers to cover the primer. Only a few figures have powder horns. This particular paint will require multiple thin layers to cover the primer.

Brass barrels, studs and hair accessories.

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Bet you never thought we’d have a discussion on hair accessories, did ya?

Brass barrels for everyone, brass hair accessories for the dwarves wearing the pickelhaube helmets, brass fittings on the powder horns and brass armor studs on the leather jerkins for the majority of the unit.

Vallejo BrassVallejo Brass
The left hand figure has several brass ornaments in his hair. The left hand figure has several brass ornaments in his hair.

Brass barrels, studs and hair accessories.

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Bet you never thought we’d have a discussion on hair accessories, did ya?

Brass barrels for everyone, brass hair accessories for the dwarves wearing the pickelhaube helmets, brass fittings on the powder horns and brass armor studs on the leather jerkins for the majority of the unit.

Vallejo BrassVallejo Brass
The left hand figure has several brass ornaments in his hair. The left hand figure has several brass ornaments in his hair.

Gunstocks

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Vallejo Mahogany Brown Vallejo Mahogany Brown
Parts of The gunstocks are a little tricky to get to behind the right hands so extra care needs to be taken there. Parts of The gunstocks are a little tricky to get to behind the right hands so extra care needs to be taken there.

Boots

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Vallejo Flat Brown Vallejo Flat Brown
Dwarven boots. Dwarven boots.

Gloves

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Army Painter Leather Brown Army Painter Leather Brown
A pair of Dwarven handgunners, in gloves! A pair of Dwarven handgunners, in gloves!

Leather Jerkin

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Army Painter Desert YellowArmy Painter Desert Yellow
Worn under the chainmail on the left hand figure and over the chainmail on the right hand figure. Worn under the chainmail on the left hand figure and over the chainmail on the right hand figure.

Leather Jerkin

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Army Painter Desert YellowArmy Painter Desert Yellow
Worn under the chainmail on the left hand figure and over the chainmail on the right hand figure. Worn under the chainmail on the left hand figure and over the chainmail on the right hand figure.

Armor

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Army Painter Plate Mail MetalArmy Painter Plate Mail Metal
Front view Front view
Loyd ViewLoyd View

Beards and Hair

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Army Painter Lava Orange Army Painter Lava Orange
I like orange. It’ll make a nice spot color with all the metallic colors that’ll come later. I like orange. It’ll make a nice spot color with all the metallic colors that’ll come later.

Belts

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Army Painter Fur BrownArmy Painter Fur Brown
Most of the details are on the back of these two minis. Most of the details are on the back of these two minis.

Skin

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Vallejo Dark Flesh. Vallejo Dark Flesh.
The handgunners only have two poses and they’re wearing gloves so pretty much we’re just painting the faces. Because of the dark primer, it’ll probably take two light coats. The handgunners only have two poses and they’re wearing gloves so pretty much we’re just painting the faces. Because of the dark primer, it’ll probably take two light coats.

General approach to painting

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Be lazy.

I paint whole armies and I just don’t want to spend a lot of time painting any one thing. Heroes and special characters, sure. But not whole armies.

Here’s my way. My way is not THE way. It’s A way. And it works for me.

First, choose good minis. A nice sculpt will look good with less effort. Bad or very plain sculpts will require more effort because the painting will have to be of a higher quality in order to impart some character to the models.

Second, just sit and look at the minis and think about how you’re going to paint them.  Have a plan, try it and see if it works for you. If not, try another plan.

Third, where practical, combine steps. I generally like to base coat with colored primers to save a step. And generally I like to Prime in a color that’ll be the majority color.

Now for this army and it’s horde of chain mail clad dwarves you’d think I’d go with a metallic silver. Instead I went with the Wolf Grey.  While the hands and faces are still accessible on most of the minis, the cloth coats are very small details and surrounded by other details.  So I decided those would be Wolf Grey, as it’ll be a nice contrast to the chain mail, and base coating in Wolf Grey will save time because I won’t have to try to be super precise to get to those smaller details.

Fourth, paint from the inside out. For this army, from the skin out. This is because on sword and shield armies the flesh is usually in the most recessed parts of the minis. And that’s generally the case here.

Fifth, paint in assembly line fashion. Choose a color, then paint that color on all the minis. For this army I’ll group the minis in Saga sized units of eight or twelve minis at a time. This is a small enough number of minis not to get overwhelmed and when finished, I’ll have a complete unit. Both of these points will help to keep my motivation up.

There it is. That’s my plan.

Base Coat

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I primed using Army Painter Wolf GreyI primed using Army Painter Wolf Grey
I used a wooden dowel, or paint stirrer, as a base and some masking tape to hold the minis in place. I used a wooden dowel, or paint stirrer, as a base and some masking tape to hold the minis in place.
Rubber gloves from the pharmacy to protect my hands while holding the dowel. Rubber gloves from the pharmacy to protect my hands while holding the dowel.
Primed minisPrimed minis

Adding sand

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A tub of sand. In this case from Games Workshop. A tub of sand. In this case from Games Workshop.

I’m going to cover the bases with sand to give some texture to the surface. You can use any sand of a suitable size but I’ll be using some I picked up from Games Workshop.

I use Elmer’s Glue (it’s a PVA glue), an old paint brush and a little bit of water to cover the base with glue.

Base covered in glue awaiting sand. Base covered in glue awaiting sand.
In the sand box. In the sand box.
Once the base is covered, remove excess and allow to dry. Once the base is covered, remove excess and allow to dry.

Bases

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Recessed bases made by Warlord GamesRecessed bases made by Warlord Games

I prefer round bases and I especially like recessed bases. The recess allows me to hide the molded on bases that are part of the minis. I’ll hide that using base render.

 

4Ground base render4Ground base render

This particular basing material is fairly easy to apply. I use a paint knife I picked up at Hobby Lobby in the section where artist oils are sold.

Render applied with paint knife Render applied with paint knife

While the render is still wet, it’s easy to clean up using water and paper towels. Once dry excess material is a little trickier to deal with. I use a dentists pick that I got from Micro Mark.

Heavily used this dental tool works great for removing material in hard to reach places. Heavily used this dental tool works great for removing material in hard to reach places.

It’ll take a couple of hours for the render to dry. Once dry the next step will be to add some texture.

Allow to dry before moving on to the next step. Allow to dry before moving on to the next step.

Color Test

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A mix of Oathmark, Conqueror and Mirliton miniatures.  A mix of Oathmark, Conqueror and Mirliton miniatures.

This is a color test and I’m pretty happy with it.  I’ll go into detail about how I arrived here in later posts

The three figures on the left are from the Oathmark Dwarf Infantry box and are made of plastic.

http://www.northstarfigures.com/list.php?man=257&page=1

The figures with the  two-handed axe and the crossbow are metal figures from Conqueror Miniatures.

https://conquerormodels.com/product-category/28mm-fantasy/dwarfs/

The handgunner is a metal figure from Mirliton.

http://www.mirliton.it/fantasy-25-28mm/dwarfs/dwarfes-handgunners-dw036

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