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Blipvertus multigame Dwarf army

Blipvertus multigame Dwarf army

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Project Blog by blipvertus Cult of Games Member

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About the Project

It started out simple. I wanted a Viking army for Saga but I wanted it to be different because everyone does Vikings. So instead I did seven other armies. I finally hit upon the idea of using Dwarves as my Viking stand in. Dwarves are also a part of Norse mythology and they’re ill tempered and armed with axes. Seems like a natural fit! When Oathmark came out with a plastic Dwarf infantry box I found everything I’d need for a Saga army. You can make dwarves armed with bows, something that is pretty rare for most Dwarf models, as well as spear and axe armed dwarves. You can also equip figures with a weapon in each hand making them a great substitute for Berserkers. One of the nice things about this box is all the figures are wearing chainmail and to me, that’s quintessentially dwarfish. Originally I was going to make the spear armed dwarves my warriors and my axe and sword armed dwarves as my hearthguard. But Oathmark came out with a box of Heavy Infantry Dwarves so I may use them as hearthguard. These also feature chainmail but also have segmented armor and some platemail. They also feature a lot of steel face masks integrated into their helmets. This is something I love because Tolkien mentions something similar in The Silmarillion about the dwarves in Middlearth. With my Viking army all planned out and a couple of boxes of minis, I was set. Huzzah! Then Age of Magic arrived. And Warlords of Erewhon. The unit options in both games increased the variety of units a Dwarf army could take. So I set about trying to find suitable minis that would look good together. I found a nice set of crossbow armed dwarves from Conqueror. Conquer also had dwarves armed with two-handed axes. Both units are also in chainmail thus making it easier for them to blend in. I then found some chainmail wearing handgunners from Mirliton. Because I’m getting minis from several different ranges I worried about how to make them look like a cohesive army. I asked our local guru, Sean Twiddy. He’s one of the smart guys that teaches art at one of the local universities and uses miniature painting in some of his lessons. Sean is also an avid Saga player. He suggested using the same color pallet for the whole army in order to tie it all together. So I tried it and painted up a test color scheme and I think it’ll work. The header/thumbnail photo is of the test minis. I’m going to try to document how I got to those finished images. I’m going to try to show and explain every step as well as show the sources of the materials used.

This Project is Active

Heavy Infantry Glamour Shots

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After the shields were dry, I gave everything a spray of Army Painter Matt Varnish and let it dry. After the varnish dried, I got the “Hold my beer!” miniature and added a pennant.

For the pennant I added to the banner bearers pole, I cut out the pennant from a Flags of War pennant set, then used PVA glue applied to the interior of the paper and wrapped it around the pole, then aligned and shaped the paper while the glue was still wet.

Once dry, I used some Army Painter Pure Red to cover up the red edges and some Secret Weapons Concrete Wash to cover the white edges.

Shields Pt 3

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I trimmed the transfers, peeled off the plastic covering and then applied them sticky side down. I then firmly pressed them onto the shields. I then wet the transfers by sticking the whole assembly into a clean cup of water and then again pressing the backing paper firmly onto the shield. I then peeled off the paper and applied Micro Sol transfer solvent. After several applications of Micro Sol, I then found matching paint colors and carefully painted around any gaps between the transfers and the shields. I then scraped away the paint down to the bare plastic on the back of the shield and either the hand or forearm of the minis. This enabled a good surface to use Testors plastic cement to create a chemical weld. After the cement dried, I washed the back of shields with Seraphim Sepia and the rims and boss with Nuln Oil.I trimmed the transfers, peeled off the plastic covering and then applied them sticky side down. I then firmly pressed them onto the shields. I then wet the transfers by sticking the whole assembly into a clean cup of water and then again pressing the backing paper firmly onto the shield. I then peeled off the paper and applied Micro Sol transfer solvent. After several applications of Micro Sol, I then found matching paint colors and carefully painted around any gaps between the transfers and the shields. I then scraped away the paint down to the bare plastic on the back of the shield and either the hand or forearm of the minis. This enabled a good surface to use Testors plastic cement to create a chemical weld. After the cement dried, I washed the back of shields with Seraphim Sepia and the rims and boss with Nuln Oil.

Shields Pt 2

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The front of the shields were painted Army Painter Matt White. This took multiple thin coats to get good, smooth coverage. The front of the shields were painted Army Painter Matt White. This took multiple thin coats to get good, smooth coverage.

Shields

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The heavy infantry sprues comes with five shields per sprue but the have raised designs on them. Rather than bother to try and sand them down I used some of the spare shields from the regular infantry set plus some Gripping Beast Plastic Dark Age shields. I’ll then use a mix of the Little Big Man Studios shield transfers for the finishing touches. The Oathmark specific transfers are sold through Northstar Miniatures. The Gripping Beast Dark Age shield transfers are sold directly from the Little Big Msn Studios site.

For future builds in this project I’ll also be using the Victrix Viking plastic shields and the associated  Victrix shield transfers. Those transfers are also sold directly from the Victrix site and don’t appear on the LBMS webpage.

A mix of Oathmark and Gripping Beast plastic shields primed with Army Painter Plate Mail Metal primer. The wooden elements are being painted Army Painter Fur Brown. This will require at least two thin coats of the Fur Brown to get good coverage. A mix of Oathmark and Gripping Beast plastic shields primed with Army Painter Plate Mail Metal primer. The wooden elements are being painted Army Painter Fur Brown. This will require at least two thin coats of the Fur Brown to get good coverage.

Heavy Infantry mostly done.

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Washes finished, maybe some touch ups then on to shields and basing.

Possibly my favorite figures in the army. Possibly my favorite figures in the army.
There’s quite a variety of heads to choose from. There’s quite a variety of heads to choose from.
Each sprue comes with 5 bodies and 23 heads. Each sprue comes with 5 bodies and 23 heads.

Heavy Infantry Update

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Even tough the masks cover the faces, they still have a lot of character. A few more washes and I can move on to basing.

Heavy Infantry

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Based around the Oathmark Dwarf Heavy Infantry box, these figures can serve as hearthguard, veterans, or unit leaders.

I’ll build the first batch armed with one handed weapons then a second batch with two handed weapons.

The sprues have more head options than bodies and in this case I opted to make the banner bearer with an open faced helmet and everyone else with an iron mask. After assembling the minis I filled in the base with Warlods basing compound. Once dry I applied PVA glue and sand as per usual. The sprues have more head options than bodies and in this case I opted to make the banner bearer with an open faced helmet and everyone else with an iron mask. After assembling the minis I filled in the base with Warlods basing compound. Once dry I applied PVA glue and sand as per usual.
Because there’s so much armor on these figures, and virtually no cloth, I elected to use Army Painter Plate Mail Metal ad the primer. Because there’s so much armor on these figures, and virtually no cloth, I elected to use Army Painter Plate Mail Metal ad the primer.
Here I’ve painted the base with Army Painter Leather Brown. Here I’ve painted the base with Army Painter Leather Brown.
Beards painted Army Painter Lava Orange and flesh painted Vallejo Dark FleshBeards painted Army Painter Lava Orange and flesh painted Vallejo Dark Flesh
Gloves painted Army Painter Fur Brown, shirt painted Army Painter Wolf Grey, pants painted Army Painter Desert Yellow and boots painted Vallejo Flat Brown..  Gloves painted Army Painter Fur Brown, shirt painted Army Painter Wolf Grey, pants painted Army Painter Desert Yellow and boots painted Vallejo Flat Brown..
I washed the armor with Nuln Oil, the face wth Reikland Flesh, the pants, boots, brass and gloves with Seraphim Sepia. I washed the armor with Nuln Oil, the face wth Reikland Flesh, the pants, boots, brass and gloves with Seraphim Sepia.

Berserkers!

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A Saga Viking army can take a single four man Berserker unit. I built mine using the Oathmark minis. The Dwarf infantry box comes with only one left handed weapon and that’s a hammer. Since the Berserkers have twice as many attacks and less armor than equivalent units, I opted to scrap the shields and give everyone two weapons.

Primed and base the base painted Army Painter Leather Brown. Primed and base the base painted Army Painter Leather Brown.
The hands and faces were painted Vallejo Dark Flesh. The hands and faces were painted Vallejo Dark Flesh.
I used Vallejo Brass on the decorative pieces, knickers handles, belt buckles and shoulder guards. I used Vallejo Brass on the decorative pieces, knickers handles, belt buckles and shoulder guards.
I used Apothecary White on the white beard and hair and Seraphim Sepia on the other beards. The chainmail was painted with Army Painter Plate Mail Metal. I left the helmets Wolf Grey just to differentiate the unit a little more.  The beards are painted Army Painter Lava Orange. The bald  dwarf’s beard was painted Army Painter Matt White. I used Apothecary White on the white beard and hair and Seraphim Sepia on the other beards. The chainmail was painted with Army Painter Plate Mail Metal. I left the helmets Wolf Grey just to differentiate the unit a little more. The beards are painted Army Painter Lava Orange. The bald dwarf’s beard was painted Army Painter Matt White.
I used the same washes as previously with one exception. I used Reikland Flesh Shade on the brass parts. I then brought the color back up by reapplying the brass. I used the same washes as previously with one exception. I used Reikland Flesh Shade on the brass parts. I then brought the color back up by reapplying the brass.
Glamour shot of the finished unit. Glamour shot of the finished unit.

Final group of Spearmen done

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Here’s a few glamour shots of the last group of spearmen followed by some group shots of all the spearmen.

Here’s all the Spearmen together. Here’s all the Spearmen together.

Finishing up the Spearmen

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With the base colors laid in, washes were next. With the base colors laid in, washes were next.
I sprayed the shields Army Painter Plate Mail and once dry painted the back with Army Painter Fur Brown. I sprayed the shields Army Painter Plate Mail and once dry painted the back with Army Painter Fur Brown.
I then painted the front of the shields white. The white is for the transfers. You can use other colors but it will change the appearance as the transfers are very thin. I then painted the front of the shields white. The white is for the transfers. You can use other colors but it will change the appearance as the transfers are very thin.
Once the shields were painted I applied the transfers are previously then glued the shields onto the minis. I then based the minis as previously adding the cork rocks and the tufts. Once the shields were painted I applied the transfers are previously then glued the shields onto the minis. I then based the minis as previously adding the cork rocks and the tufts.

Update

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No new colors or techniques, just a couple of updates and in progress shots.

Most base colors laid in. Most base colors laid in.
Th beards were the next to last base color laid in. The last color will be the Wolf Gray and that should just be a few touch ups on the spear and some of the cloth. Th beards were the next to last base color laid in. The last color will be the Wolf Gray and that should just be a few touch ups on the spear and some of the cloth.
Here all the washes have been completed. Next up is basing and shields. Here all the washes have been completed. Next up is basing and shields.

3rd Unit of Spearmen

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Started laying in the basic colors for the last nine spearmen. Started laying in the basic colors for the last nine spearmen.

Second unit of Spearmen done.

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Well, that didn’t work.

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As the last step for these figures, I sprayed them with Army Painter Matt Varnish and as you can see, it discolored the paper pennants.   Lesson learned? Put the pennants on after the varnish step. As the last step for these figures, I sprayed them with Army Painter Matt Varnish and as you can see, it discolored the paper pennants. Lesson learned? Put the pennants on after the varnish step.

Project Update

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This is the second unit of spearmen. Either the exception of some pennants, they’re the same as the prior unit. Here are just some in progress shots.

Most of the base colors blocked in. Pretty much just the beards to do. Most of the base colors blocked in. Pretty much just the beards to do.
Beards done. Beards done.
Beginning to add washes. Here the faces, beards and leather gear have been washed. Beginning to add washes. Here the faces, beards and leather gear have been washed.
Here the armor has been washed.  At this point the washes are done. Here the armor has been washed. At this point the washes are done.
Added some pennants from Flags of War to mark out unit leaders. Saga doesn’t use them but Lords of Erehwon does. I cut the pennants out with some small scissors and the coated the backs with PVA glue and the wrapped them around the spear haft. Added some pennants from Flags of War to mark out unit leaders. Saga doesn’t use them but Lords of Erehwon does. I cut the pennants out with some small scissors and the coated the backs with PVA glue and the wrapped them around the spear haft.
To cover the edges of the pennants where the white paper shows through I used some Army Painter Pure Red on the red areas and some Secret Weapons Concrete wash for the white areas. To cover the edges of the pennants where the white paper shows through I used some Army Painter Pure Red on the red areas and some Secret Weapons Concrete wash for the white areas.
Here are the pennants after the touch ups. Here are the pennants after the touch ups.

First unit of spearmen done.

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Once the shields were finished, I test fitted the shields to the figures. I then used a file to remove paint on the arm and on the shield so that only bare plastic is exposed. I then glued the shields in place with Testors styrene plastic glue. Once dry, I sprayed all the minis with Army Painter Ant Shine Matt Varnish.

Nine down. Seventeen to go. Nine down. Seventeen to go.

Flags!

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Well, just the one flag. After cutting the flag out I used a plain sheet of white stationery and cut it slightly larger than the transfer. Well, just the one flag. After cutting the flag out I used a plain sheet of white stationery and cut it slightly larger than the transfer.
I then peeled off the plastic cover and applied the transfer face down pressing it firmly onto the paper. I then wetted the back of the transfer sheet and peeled it off. I then left this alone until it was dry.  I then peeled off the plastic cover and applied the transfer face down pressing it firmly onto the paper. I then wetted the back of the transfer sheet and peeled it off. I then left this alone until it was dry.
I then trimmed the paper as closely as possible to the transfer using the smallest pair of scissors I could find. I then pre shaped the flag by wrapping it around some paint  brush handles. I then trimmed the paper as closely as possible to the transfer using the smallest pair of scissors I could find. I then pre shaped the flag by wrapping it around some paint brush handles.
I then used Elmer’s glue thinned slightly with water then throughly covered the back with a brush. I then wrapped the flag around the banner pole and lined up the edges and shaped the flag, again using a pair brush handle. I then used Elmer’s glue thinned slightly with water then throughly covered the back with a brush. I then wrapped the flag around the banner pole and lined up the edges and shaped the flag, again using a pair brush handle.

Once the flag had dried,  I painted the edges where white was showing with Vallejo Prussian Blue or Army Painter Plate Mail Metal.

With everything now done, I sprayed all the spearmen and the banner bearer with Army Painter with Anti Shine Matt Varnish. With everything now done, I sprayed all the spearmen and the banner bearer with Army Painter with Anti Shine Matt Varnish.

Shields Pt 3

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With the transfers in place I touched up the rims so there’s no gaps between the transfers and rims. With the transfers in place I touched up the rims so there’s no gaps between the transfers and rims.
I then washed the rims and boss with GW Nuln Oil. I then washed the rims and boss with GW Nuln Oil.
This shot is a shot of the back of the shields before any touch ups. This shot is a shot of the back of the shields before any touch ups.
After clean up the rims and shield backs I washed the rims it’s GW Nuln Oil and the woode with GW Seraphim Sepia. After clean up the rims and shield backs I washed the rims it’s GW Nuln Oil and the woode with GW Seraphim Sepia.

Shields Pt 2

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The decals or transfers are from Little Big Man Studios however these specific decals are not available from the LBMS site but only through Oathmark. I’m not exactly sure why.

In any event, the LBMS instructions are quite good. My specific suggestion is that as soon as you receive the transfer sheet, open the package and find an inconspicuous corner of the sheet and very carefully peel back the plastic covering, but do not entirely remove it. Put it gently back in place. By doing this you’ll make it easier to remove the plastic later and make it less likely that the transfer will fuse to the plastic. And by putting the plastic back in place you’ll protect the transfer until ready for use.

Cut the transfer out and then carefully the transfer as close as possible to the design. Cut the transfer out and then carefully the transfer as close as possible to the design.
Dry fit the transfer to the shield to make sure it’s the right size.  One annoying fact of the Oathmark dwarves is that there are several different shield sizes. Fortunately the LBMS transfers are made in all the right sizes but you’ll have to marry up the right sized transfer to the shield. Dry fit the transfer to the shield to make sure it’s the right size. One annoying fact of the Oathmark dwarves is that there are several different shield sizes. Fortunately the LBMS transfers are made in all the right sizes but you’ll have to marry up the right sized transfer to the shield.
Once you’re satisfied carefully remove the plastic covering the transfer. The now exposed transfer is sticky and you want to put the sticky size down and in contact with the shield face. Once in place, press down firmly. Once in place, apply water to the transfer paper. Get it thoroughly soaked, then press down firmly again. Then peel off the wet paper.  Once you’re satisfied carefully remove the plastic covering the transfer. The now exposed transfer is sticky and you want to put the sticky size down and in contact with the shield face. Once in place, press down firmly. Once in place, apply water to the transfer paper. Get it thoroughly soaked, then press down firmly again. Then peel off the wet paper.
With the transfer now in place and exposed, use Micro Sol by Micromark if necessary, to help the transfer conform to any raised areas on the shield. Micro Sol essentially softens the transfer film allowing it to conform to contours. With the transfer now in place and exposed, use Micro Sol by Micromark if necessary, to help the transfer conform to any raised areas on the shield. Micro Sol essentially softens the transfer film allowing it to conform to contours.

Shields Pt 1

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After cutting the shields off the sprues and doing some sanding, I affixed them to a paint stirrer and sprayed the backs Army Painter Fur Brown. After cutting the shields off the sprues and doing some sanding, I affixed them to a paint stirrer and sprayed the backs Army Painter Fur Brown.
I then flipped them over and sprayed the fronts with Army Painter Plate Mail Metal. I then flipped them over and sprayed the fronts with Army Painter Plate Mail Metal.
I then hand painted the fronts white leaving the boss and rim in metal. I then hand painted the fronts white leaving the boss and rim in metal.

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