Gobsmacked!

Basic build for the Reaper mini Sakarat, goblin wizard (03838) in how I go about building bases the direction “normal” people might go about it. At first glance the mini seems pretty rough to try and ply about with because of the sheer size. Anyone working with goblins of most other ranges can attest to the smaller stature than the average 28mm. With that in mind I’ll need to try and not overwhelm the figure.

First getting the model, I introduce it to the base and then begin the mayhem of manipulating space. Here I’ve already got a concept of a focus in a triangular fashion forming toward the tip of the hat from the mass of the goblin.

I then cut away some of the basswood strip I set into place, using my handy dandy 5 min epoxy, in order to create filler that I’ll model rocks over later using Apoxiesculpt. The filler also allows me to figure out how much “terrain” I can model in and where visual interest can be developed. Here I think I’ll model in some flowstone and maybe some small pools while the zany shaman is surrounded by magical mushrooms. I’m debating on whether or not to add summoning effects as well but I’ll get around to that later.

So I dug around and found a spare looney moon bit that I had intended on adding to the base and placed it on top of a metal rod that I inserted into the basswood. I then decided “Hey, the rocks need to be built now” so I went off and sculpted all that. Having bought mushrooms long ago for this very setup I tossed them on with a resin skull and had fun in thinking this was going to take paint well. Going the display route away from the recent gaming binge has been pleasant.

Blocking in the base layers I’ve reached the point of painting I loathe. I hate seeing a shit paint scheme that I know must get better. I’m beyond the place where I’m stuck staring at primer coat and analysis paralysis for what I’ll do next. Here I actively look at the paint with disgust and loathe the idea of moving forward despite myself. I’ll get over it and finish the painting relatively quickly. Its not difficult I just want details to pop when I’m done.

Done and done! I finished this up with much bolder highlights than I considered as I took the advice of someone that was addressing the question “How much highlighting do you need to do”, the answer was “Go two steps beyond what you feel comfortable with”.

I also took the images using the pro setting on my phone of exposure ISO 100 and white balance for 5500k daylight inside a Greenstuffworld lightbox that I lined with sheets of closed cell EVA foam. The light diffuses on the surface pretty well in my opinion but it might need to be softer in hitting the model. Its not spectacular studio quality imagery but I don’t think my painting is quite at the level of serious competition that would require that kind of thing. I’ve got my model on top of a rotating platform in order to try and keep my figure location consistant despite my misgiving on skill. I’ll make up for a lack in one area as I work on another.