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The chainsword

The chainsword

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Project Blog by skodamarine

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About the Project

Renovating the chainsword I found on a carboot a few years ago. Who knew inquisitors had garage sales too? :)

This Project is Completed

The chainsword of +1 bendiness....

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 5
No Comments
The chainsword of +1 bendiness....

This project is about renovating a foam toy chainsword I found on a car boot a few years ago. The seller said her son went on a crafting course and made it there.

It is made of soft foam, and I presume was for cosplay as it is bendy, and who would want to be hit with a more solid material while cosplaying? None of the details are sharp, and  doesn’t look that good, but it gives me the basic shape and only cost 50p.

As I am going to use it as a decoration for my wargaming room,  it won’t matter if it ends up being a little bit heavier and more solid, although I try to avoid things being too realistic  – in the event of nerd rage as the wargaming table I don’t want a bad loser clocking me around the head with anything too realistic. I am planning on using some metals bolts, but as long as the main body of the sword isn’t too rigid it should break instead of hurting someone.

I have never worked with this type of material before ( the closest  I’ve come has been repainting hard plastic nerf guns and lightsabers)

 

 

The chainsword of +1 bendiness....

Prepping the chainsword

Tutoring 4
Skill 4
Idea 4
No Comments

First I have to cut off the bits I don’t need.

their are several lumps and spikes on the sword ‘s body and handle that are just too rounded and featureless to be saved by painting. I just used a sharp hobby knife with the blade fully extended to cut these off flat.

the paint seems to be rubberised, like coloured pva, and I have to pull off lose bits of this too.

there is a coloured cord wound around the handle, but I decide to leave this in place as it appears to be glued in position and I think taking this off might weaken the handle too much. Instead, I’ll try to paint the core later and cover it with something more appropriate later.

It is actually a little short for a full sized chain sword, but as it is the right size to fit where I plan to display it I’ll not extend the sword. I do however cut of the “point” of the chain, as to my mind this should be more rounded so you can imagine it revolving around an end axis.

The card body

Tutoring 3
Skill 3
Idea 3
No Comments

Now In have to make a card sheath to wrap around the main body of the saord. The foam.is too rounded and soft to look like metal.

I lay the sword io a sheet of cardboard, and using the spine of the sword as a central A axis. I quickly sketch out the shape with a ruler and pencil, knowing that the sword isn’t completely symmetrical so measurements will have to be adjusted slightly anyway later.

The card body

I cut out the card with a sharp knife in a hard cutting board – this will give you a straighter edge normally than using scissors. I wrap the card around the sword and make a.few adjustments in situ, and cut the front curve making sure to keep the off cut – this becomes the template for cutting the other side so ensuring both sides match.

 

 

The card body

Finally the card sheath is glued in place around the main body of the sword.

I could have done this with super glue but it would have used up several bottles – instead I used a cheap tube of contact glue that I am.relieved to find doesn’t seem to be dissolving the foam the sword is made from. The glue is spread on both surfaces,left to cure for a few minutes, then pressed.together. I use a collection of clamps and large bulldog clips.I have to hold the thing together while it sets.

In a few spots I use cut up paperclip as skewers to hold the card in position and make sure it doesn’t slip.

 

The card body

I’ll leave this overnight, and hope the cardboard has set solidly in place by tomorrow.

Painting the Chainsword

Tutoring 2
Skill 4
Idea 3
No Comments

The chainsword was given a coat of grey primer – this is particularly needed when using items like metal washers and plastic containers not designed for painting.

Then I sprayed it with a matt black to act as a good basis for my drybrushing later. Once the spray paint was dry I touched up any missed spots in crevices with a brush, then let the whole lot dry for a few days. I find if drybrushing things like this can sometimes knock off patches of primer if you try to do it too soon, and it is better to let the primer harden properly

Everything gets a light drybrushing with natural steel. This makes the sword look metalic.Everything gets a light drybrushing with natural steel. This makes the sword look metalic.
Then a light drybrushing of brass to add interest and make the sword look a bit beat up and old.Then a light drybrushing of brass to add interest and make the sword look a bit beat up and old.
It may seem a bit gory to paint the It may seem a bit gory to paint the "teeth" of the chainsword blood red, but I needed a colour where they would stand out from the body of the sword.
Painting the Chainsword

The Chevrons

Tutoring 4
Skill 4
Idea 4
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Everybody knows that the Dept of Health and Safety is all powerful in 40K, and that they demand warning chevrons are painted on anything dangerous 🙂

I masked off the area to be left black with masking tape [Use decent quality stuff - the cheaper brands either won't stick so paint leaks under it, or will lift off the base paint when being removed].I masked off the area to be left black with masking tape [Use decent quality stuff - the cheaper brands either won't stick so paint leaks under it, or will lift off the base paint when being removed].
Make sure to rub the edges of the masking tape to seal it to the surface.Make sure to rub the edges of the masking tape to seal it to the surface.
I find GW base yellow works well as a base layer when covering darker colours - so many yellow paints are just too thin. I sponge it on to give a mottled textureI find GW base yellow works well as a base layer when covering darker colours - so many yellow paints are just too thin. I sponge it on to give a mottled texture
A lighter lemon paint is sponged on....A lighter lemon paint is sponged on....
Then a pale brown very lighly sponged on the top of everything to give an aged look to che chevron painting.Then a pale brown very lighly sponged on the top of everything to give an aged look to che chevron painting.
Finally carefully peel off the masking tape - I tend to try to remove this before the paint is fully dry. If the paint had dried out I would probably lighly score the edges with a craft knife to stop the paint tearing off.Finally carefully peel off the masking tape - I tend to try to remove this before the paint is fully dry. If the paint had dried out I would probably lighly score the edges with a craft knife to stop the paint tearing off.

Next, I weather down the sword and add colour to details like wires. The chevrons will get a edge highlight in silver to represent scratches, and generally I will add rust and stains to my taste – as 40K isn’t a subtle setting I’ll probably go a bit cartoony with that.

The original plan was to recover the handle grip with a legth of suitable twine, but due to lockdown I can’t as I have nothing suitable already in the house. So when you next see the sword it’s handle will have been stained with a emulsion paint tester pot I found lying around – Emulsion will hopefully soak  into the cloth so give a better finish than acrylics, although I wouldn’t recommend that for something that would be handled a lot – as this will just be hung on my wall it should be fine.

The finished Chainsword

Tutoring 7
Skill 8
Idea 8
2 Comments

I’ve added some weathering and aging to the sword. I have been a bit cartoony with the painting on this as it is going to be displayed on a wall and viewed from a distance, but I do add a little shading on things like the wires and drybrushing the chevrons with rust and steel to make it look a little more beat up and old.

The finished Chainsword

The finished sword has more texture and details instead of being flat and featureless like when I bought it.

I must say that because I have used actual metal bolts and washers this is not really suitable for cosplay fights [for that they should have been made from soft foam], but as a display piece that will be safely fixed to the wall of my wargaming cave I am happy with how this has turned out.