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American Civil War – The Regiment from country roads West Virginia, Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River

American Civil War – The Regiment from country roads West Virginia, Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River

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Project Blog by glenn92 Cult of Games Member

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About the Project

After me yapping about wanting to do an ACW army a few of us decided to paint up a few regiments for a game of Black Powder, the idea being to come together with a brigade each for a battle. This project is an overview after much thinking of how I painted my southern boys.

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Finale: Regiment read to march.

Tutoring 2
Skill 2
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The regiment is TOTALLY finished. The basing completes a model. I’m not entirely sure that the tufts go with the grit, but I want to keep a consistent basing scheme and I want the added colour of the “Meadow Tufts”. I like the dirts showing through, the colour is a cheap burnt umbar art paint and I like how slight glossiness to the paint looks like wet mud.

 

Now that the project is over – though I will add photos of new completed regiments – if you want to comment please do.

Basic bases

Tutoring 4
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The bases are 40mmx40mm, 4 models per square, 24 in the full regiment.The bases are 40mmx40mm, 4 models per square, 24 in the full regiment.
Like a crisp packe the tube of spackle is 2/3 air.Like a crisp packe the tube of spackle is 2/3 air.

When creating bases I try to do someting different and thematic for each army. With this one I wanted to give spackle bases a go. Partly this was to hide the base the figures have attached to them; and it would be more natural looking than hiding it with static grass.

I found the spackle easy enough to apply, a bit of water helps it manouver and adhere and any bits that touch the mini can be wiped away with a wet paint brush.

I avoided spackling around the feet so it didn’t look like everyone’s feet disappear into the ground.

The next step is to paint the bases brown, then add grit and flock, so another update then.

 

We do like a fleg in Norn Iron

Tutoring 4
Skill 4
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First attempt at a flag has turned out pretty good, I just need to go around the edge in red, white and blue to hide the white edge of the paper. Flag came with the set from Perry MinisFirst attempt at a flag has turned out pretty good, I just need to go around the edge in red, white and blue to hide the white edge of the paper. Flag came with the set from Perry Minis
Flag was trimmed, folded and then watered down PVA was applied. A small square of tinfoil is placed in the mddle of the two flag halves; this gives enough structural integrity to bend the flag. Do not bend too far or will leave white stretch marks. Flag was trimmed, folded and then watered down PVA was applied. A small square of tinfoil is placed in the mddle of the two flag halves; this gives enough structural integrity to bend the flag. Do not bend too far or will leave white stretch marks.

Quick Update

Tutoring 8
Skill 9
Idea 9
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The two commands have been washed so the next post will be the regiment fully based on squares, matte varnished and a Virginia flag flying from the flagstaff.

Next Steps

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I’ve been considering the historical context of the regiments I am building. Bull Run which I have an interest in is out as I don’t think my colour scheme entirely suits the Confederates during the first year. I also wanted to have Jackson and the Stonewall Brigade, Shenandoah was a possibility and Chancellorsville sounded interesting but I had read the Bernard Cornwell Civil War series and he did a really good job of showing the desperate violence of the fighting on Lee’s left flank at the cornfields and Dunkers church.

After a bit of research it was settled and I am themeing my units on the brigades that fought under Jackson on the left flank, of the Army of North Virginia during the battle of Antietam. Jackson will be my General and I’ll have a brigade of Virginians, Hoods brigade of Texans and Jeb Stuarts Cavalry. and there will still be room for extending. One caveate is I will unlikely be able to match brigades regiment for regiment and will choose 2-4 from each.

 

I intend to give an army painter strong tone wash (from the dropper not the dip) all over the remaining minis and use it to wash the areas I fixed the paint job on while highlighting. I don’t intend to add highlights to the command units as I don’t think it is worth the time spent. I’d be better starting a new batch of greys.

 

I’ll post these at some point along with the finished article. I will being bring this to completion so that will include a basing scheme (probably the one I used for my AoS Sylvaneth project – check it out – but with static grass instead of clumps). I have been storing an idea I had a couple years ago about using the flower tufts to differentiate units, so I may colour code my brigades.

Command

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The command for my first regiment was painted seperately (for reasons I no longer remember and completely regret). The command for my first regiment was painted seperately (for reasons I no longer remember and completely regret).

There were a few addtions to the paint scheme when painting these, I used Vallejo Ultramarine Blue which is a rich purpley blue and seemed fitting for the leaders, they also get more grey uniform pieces as I reasoned they will likely buy their own snazzy gear. This also meant apply Vallejo Brass for buttons, flag staff and the european braid on the the sleeves of the officer coat. I didn’t have a yellow I liked so a good wash might take the metallic edge of the colour – if any asks; gold braid?

The officers detail is a bit soft and I think it is a belt he is wearing but I painted a broader band in red and am calling it a sash, which is matched on his sword scabbard to tie the two together.

These three will be on a round base and act as brigade command for my artillery batteries. The trumpeter for signalling, binocular man for spotting and an officer to shoot slackers.... I mean lead.These three will be on a round base and act as brigade command for my artillery batteries. The trumpeter for signalling, binocular man for spotting and an officer to shoot slackers.... I mean lead.

This is my first Brigade command and will be based on a 40mm round base. The idea was this one was specifically for a brigade based around artillery battery’s. The colours are a combination of previously mentioned colours, a few points of interest being Vallejo Brass for the Trumpeter and buttons, GW Abbadon Black for binoculars and GW Rakarth Flesh for the Trumpet braid. I also used Vallejo Cold Grey to paint the hair on the officer.

 

Ceasefire Over - Infantry Update

Tutoring 8
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So after a longer than intended distraction from this project I returned to finish painting the regiment. I started painting the command for the regiment – I will post this seperately – and finished the rest of the regiment with a highlight, which was just a re-application of the base colour, which also allowed a final fix of any mistakes or gaps.

 

The photos are not the best representation but the troops do look better at a distance with the highlight but I don’t honestly think it was worth the effort.

American Uncivil War - The Infantry

Tutoring 8
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By this point I was happy with my colour choices and preceded to paint the main base coats, i.e, skin and cloth and the musket wooden parts and the canteens. I mixed match everything while still trying keep grey the predominat colour and I think this was achieved.

The next step was to paint the straps and details, so the metal musket bands, the cap peaks and trims and yes… even buttons. I was cotemplating painting the bag an off white then I saw a a documetary where the renactors had white bread bags and white straps fot the canteen and I thought that’ll do for me. For some reason with historicals the moment the straps are painted the model comes to life. The next step was a wash of Strong tone ink. This bubbled a little and has settled strangely on a couple of minis but the majority look well.

To finish the models I will reapply the base coats as a basic highlight. The one problem I have with the paint scheme is the length of time. 2 nights finished two coats of the main colours, 2 nights for the details, 1 for the wash and now another one or two to highlight and another to base (for 20 men). I’ll update when these are done. One night is about four hours painting which include tea making and flaffing.

Cannons thousands of them!

Tutoring 9
Skill 11
Idea 10
2 Comments

I used the artillery crews as a trial for my colour scheme and I pretty much kept my original choices, one thing I added was a red just for the artillery crews hats. I also choice not to paint buttons… I know the horror!

The cannons I painted black mixed with leadbelcher metallic to for the rifled barrells and brass for the smoothbore. The red wheeled cannons I later found I had painted very similar to the Matthew, Mark, Luke and John cannnons from Jacksons Brigade as shown in the film God’s and Generals. So happy days! if anyone asks it was intentional.

I never enjoyed basing and usually stop at this point, but finally! I found a method I enjoy and like the look of. I base coat the bases brown and from OTT store I bought some grit and fine green flock and the result to me looks like beaten grass with a few rocks added for good measure.

Fix Bayonets and Charge - Where to start your collection

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A great way to kickstart your ACW army is with the battle box from Perry miniatures. This contains a horrendous amount of lovely plastic minis to build several infantry regiments, a cavalry regiment and artillery batteries with some terrain. These can all be used for both north or south.

After building priming and organising everyone in to units, I neatly packed all away ;)After building priming and organising everyone in to units, I neatly packed all away ;)

Gather yer paints

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Skill 13
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Starting the ACW war I knew the colour scheme would need careful thinking. I wanted a mid war confederate army, perhaps Chancellorsville or Antietam as I wanted to focus on Jacksons forces to begin with.

To create the desired effect I needed a mix of butternutish browns, greys, blues and more “civilian” colours. I’ve added the paints I used below, roughly there is two shades of grey, brown, green, blue and then a red and tan colour.

After research I quickly realised like most periods the uniforms are not so uniform and there is every variation of shade under the sun. I then decided I was refusing to buy more paints as I have dozens of earthy browns and greens etc. so gathered all my paints and made my choices. The one thing I feel I am missing is a bluer grey so I might use GW spacewolf grey for this (don’t think thats what its called but it’s got wolf or fang in the name, you know the one).

 

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