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CRC’s Crazy Compendium 2; Eclectic Boogaloo

CRC’s Crazy Compendium 2; Eclectic Boogaloo

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Project Blog by crazyredcoat

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About the Project

Welcome to the next season of the "most vaguely inconsistent extravaganza that no one really thinks about but if they did they'd be mildly misanthropic about it"! Following along from my last project, here you will find an array of things I'm working on from various games and companies. Hopefully we can manage a bit more variety than last time, but I have been slowly working through a significant backlog, so we get what we get. We think we finally got away from Spiny Norman, but we can never be too sure, so strap up and buckle in for the most ambivalent ride of someone else's life! For those who missed it, the last project can be found here: https://www.beastsofwar.com/project/1533345/

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Been a while...I repainted a decal...it's something, right?

Tutoring 1
Skill 2
Idea 1
No Comments

Been a bit tumultuous the past few months for me, and I haven’t got much hobby done, but this evening I got bored and decided to go back to the decal on the last mini I paints; the House Glover Stark Outrider. I swear it’s be more logical to actually name the factions after the regions…but I realise why they did it the way they did. Anyway, this is what the shield looked like before I started.

Just an old Imperial Fist symbol (or maybe an Imperial Guard tank?) I had lying around, but it's not a perfect approximation of the House Glover badge...Just an old Imperial Fist symbol (or maybe an Imperial Guard tank?) I had lying around, but it's not a perfect approximation of the House Glover badge...
It should look more like this...so I improvised a repainting.It should look more like this...so I improvised a repainting.
Started by dotting and dashing some Corvus Black (GW) into the palm area to give the impression of a mail glove beneath the actual gauntlet.Started by dotting and dashing some Corvus Black (GW) into the palm area to give the impression of a mail glove beneath the actual gauntlet.
Then moved to picking out the gauntlet itself in Leadblecher (GW). I was hoping I could leave it at this, but the gaps between the fingers and other parts just looked too stark (no pun intended).Then moved to picking out the gauntlet itself in Leadblecher (GW). I was hoping I could leave it at this, but the gaps between the fingers and other parts just looked too stark (no pun intended).
So to fix that I went back to Corvus Black to line in the segments of armour, which looks much better, I think, and cleans up the edges of the rather old decal.So to fix that I went back to Corvus Black to line in the segments of armour, which looks much better, I think, and cleans up the edges of the rather old decal.
And then added a few dots of Stormhost Silver (GW) on the metal to give a bit of pop. Not sure how well it shows up...And then added a few dots of Stormhost Silver (GW) on the metal to give a bit of pop. Not sure how well it shows up...

And that is the total painting I’ve done for 2.5 months…I’m bad at this whole efficiency thing. Hopefully I can get more done soon, but no promises; uni is mild chaos right now…

'The wolfswood is full of danger; your last ride should have taught you that.'

Tutoring 2
Skill 2
Idea 2
No Comments

Another mini down! Today is a Stark Outrider from CMON’s A Song of Ice and Fire Miniatures Game. Typing that out I can see why people use acronyms for things… Anyhoo, I made one modification to this chaps which was to remove the sculpted Direwolf from the shield so I could replace it with the fist emblem here so I could paint the chap up as a Glover. Technically I should paint the white portions of the decal in silver, but for now I’m leaving it as it is. This is also why the tabbard is scarlet. I like mixing it up and bit, and a medieval-based setting like this is a great opportunity to add heraldry in here and there. I like heraldic things.

As a small note, I had to mess about with the brightness to try and match the colour it ACTUALLY looks in person, but the lighting in my flat is terrible… I tried…

Beyond the heraldic colours, I tried to keep things a little more dour for the Northmen without resorting to blacks and browns on everything. While there are knights in the North, they are not that big on the whole idea, and even when they do get knighted they are usually not as affluent as the Southerners.Beyond the heraldic colours, I tried to keep things a little more dour for the Northmen without resorting to blacks and browns on everything. While there are knights in the North, they are not that big on the whole idea, and even when they do get knighted they are usually not as affluent as the Southerners.
I went for the same colour pallette for the banner as I did with my Sworn Sword banner bearer because that's a good way of tying everyone together even when I go a little off-piste with the colours dotted around the force. Each tray of infantry will be tied together as an army by the flag if nothing else...minus the Umbers...but I'm pretending that I'm making sense here.I went for the same colour pallette for the banner as I did with my Sworn Sword banner bearer because that's a good way of tying everyone together even when I go a little off-piste with the colours dotted around the force. Each tray of infantry will be tied together as an army by the flag if nothing else...minus the Umbers...but I'm pretending that I'm making sense here.
I also went for a bit of bling on the banner points just because they were looking a little too drab for a possible Ser. Went for a darker gold that is likely just a bronze or copper (though not really orange enough for pure copper and copper would make a terrible point). It's a nice spot colour, I think.I also went for a bit of bling on the banner points just because they were looking a little too drab for a possible Ser. Went for a darker gold that is likely just a bronze or copper (though not really orange enough for pure copper and copper would make a terrible point). It's a nice spot colour, I think.
And the Lloyd shot! If you look carefully there is also the dreaded 'foot on rock', as well!And the Lloyd shot! If you look carefully there is also the dreaded 'foot on rock', as well!

No immediate plans for what’s coming next, but we’ll see what I have time for; school is getting a bit busy at the moment with it being midterm season… Happy Hobby, everyone!

Meet Elskling; She's NOT a Marine!

Tutoring 2
Skill 5
Idea 2
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Her glorious hair wouldn’t fit in the helmet, for a start. But here she is! GW gave a name like Morgwaeth, or something like that, but Elskling is a character name I keep using in Warhammer Total War when I play it, so that’s the name I’m going with for this one. I have a Sorceress mini in the same colours called Cosmic for a similar reason…though I can’t type her original last name here… Anyway, silly names aside, this completes my Shadespire team for the Murder Girls which has taken a fair bit of time to paint 5 minis… I don’t recall if I started them in this project or last year’s project, if I’m honest. Anyhoo, here she is:

I really like the red and purple combination for colours on these ladies. The red is Khorne Red shade with Agrax Earthshade then layered back with Khorne Red and highlighted with Wazzdakka Red. The Purple is Xerus Purple shaded with Druchii Violet (approriately) then highlighted with Genestealer Purple.I really like the red and purple combination for colours on these ladies. The red is Khorne Red shade with Agrax Earthshade then layered back with Khorne Red and highlighted with Wazzdakka Red. The Purple is Xerus Purple shaded with Druchii Violet (approriately) then highlighted with Genestealer Purple.
The rocks on the base are something I'm aiming to make look like weathered obsidian, hence the vitreous lustre (see 'shiny') on there. It's a fairly simple basing and will eventually have some grass tufts put on once I get more of them.The rocks on the base are something I'm aiming to make look like weathered obsidian, hence the vitreous lustre (see 'shiny') on there. It's a fairly simple basing and will eventually have some grass tufts put on once I get more of them.
She would have been a little easier to paint had I not fixed her hair in place before starting to paint...but I thought a snap-fit kit would be easier to pull apart once I'd put it all together and it wasn't...She would have been a little easier to paint had I not fixed her hair in place before starting to paint...but I thought a snap-fit kit would be easier to pull apart once I'd put it all together and it wasn't...
And the traditional Lloyd Shot, with a modest covering of massive hair!And the traditional Lloyd Shot, with a modest covering of massive hair!
And that's the whole team finished. Now all I need to do is actually play Shadespire again...or get more Murder Girls for an AoS game...but the Shadespire game is more likely...And that's the whole team finished. Now all I need to do is actually play Shadespire again...or get more Murder Girls for an AoS game...but the Shadespire game is more likely...

Is 'Foot on Fungus' better, or worse, than 'Foot on Rock'?

Tutoring 2
Skill 4
Idea 3
No Comments

Managed to get some priming done so I could finish off my Trainee Chaplain. I think I’ll call him Jeffrey…because I call everything Jeffrey… However the base is dominated by a dead ork, who I’ll call Gus, for reasons.

I had to prime in Zandri Dust as that was the only mid-tone colour that I had, so no grey basecoat this time. It actually gave me an idea for painting the leather that I'll go over in a bit, so it wasn't too much of a bad idea, I suppose.I had to prime in Zandri Dust as that was the only mid-tone colour that I had, so no grey basecoat this time. It actually gave me an idea for painting the leather that I'll go over in a bit, so it wasn't too much of a bad idea, I suppose.
And then I painted the ork purple and I was done and ready for basing. I primed a blank base for this joke. I'm not proud of myself.And then I painted the ork purple and I was done and ready for basing. I primed a blank base for this joke. I'm not proud of myself.

I suppose there IS purple on the mini…but not on the ork, so he’s not invisible…this time. There’s a few things I want to touch on with Gus before I get to the finished product, so lets start with how he turned out.

So we’ll kick off with the obvious point of ‘what colour is ork blood’? Because that’s been a back and forth all over the place for years. I went with red tones here for one very good reason (and a reason once given in a GW publication SOMEWHERE in the long ago); red shows up better. So the innards of poor Gus were done with that in mind. I could have highlighted them up more, or added a bit of gloss for ‘wetness’ but I decided to push ‘realism’ too far.

I also went for a triad system for painting the skin so there’s no shades on it at all. Basically, I realised just how dark of a colour WAAARGH Flesh already is as a base and didn’t want it any darker in case to the Carroburg Crimson didn’t show up at the wound edges like I wanted it to. I also used Ellysian Green as a final highlight which is maybe a bit of an odd jump, but the overall look here worked well enough. Nurgling Green (or whatever the equivalent is) would have maybe been a better option.

For clothing I wanted a good contrast against the more dour colours of the Marine, so I went almost 2nd Ed. with them. Going straight for the bright red of Evil Sunz Scarlet for the armour plate and a nice bright yellow for the shirt. It worked out well, I think, and really does give a nice contrast as you’ll see with the finished product.

The leather straps are an experiment I’m quite pleased with. Since I had a base of Zandri Dust, I wanted to see how it would look with a Black Templar Contrast paint over top of it. It came out ok, but was lacking something a bit more leathery, so I did some broad highlights with Dryad Bark, and then almost stipple highlighted on some Gorthor Brown along the edges to get that old, worn leather look. I rather like how it turned out, though if I do it next time I might use Wyldwood Contrast rather than Black Templar.

Anyway, onto the final deal!

I didn't end up moving the Chapter Badge in the end, as I swear the GW official paintjob has their sitting in a fairly similar position...though they may have used a smaller badge. The base does still need some grass tufts, but I ran out a while ago, so this is what we get for now.I didn't end up moving the Chapter Badge in the end, as I swear the GW official paintjob has their sitting in a fairly similar position...though they may have used a smaller badge. The base does still need some grass tufts, but I ran out a while ago, so this is what we get for now.
He definitely looks a lot better with a painted foot rest.He definitely looks a lot better with a painted foot rest.
I also added the purple and white colours to his chainsword. The sword does look pretty clean seeing as it's imbedded in a dead ork, but I'm kind of going for the 'Pristine' aesthetic for my Marines. They're supposed to be angels of death, so I try to keep them as 'clean' as possible. If I ever get much in the way of Guardsmen again, then they will be the ones covered in dirt and blood.I also added the purple and white colours to his chainsword. The sword does look pretty clean seeing as it's imbedded in a dead ork, but I'm kind of going for the 'Pristine' aesthetic for my Marines. They're supposed to be angels of death, so I try to keep them as 'clean' as possible. If I ever get much in the way of Guardsmen again, then they will be the ones covered in dirt and blood.
And the Lloyd shot...that is pretty much the same as last time.And the Lloyd shot...that is pretty much the same as last time.
I'm pleased with much of the freehand work I've done on the Marine, but this shoulder pad is something I'm rather proud of. Careful blocking of shapes and using marker on the mini itself made it a lot easier than I thought it would be. I'm rather enjoying experimenting with freehand markings at the moment.I'm pleased with much of the freehand work I've done on the Marine, but this shoulder pad is something I'm rather proud of. Careful blocking of shapes and using marker on the mini itself made it a lot easier than I thought it would be. I'm rather enjoying experimenting with freehand markings at the moment.
And a final note on the blood on the base. This one was really simple, because I have gone for a dry dusty base, so blood just soaks into the ground rather than pools, so just a touch of Carroburg Crimson over the drybrushed base and you get this effect. No need to gloss it, because of the dry soil just letting it seep in. That's a gruesome point... Until next time, folks!And a final note on the blood on the base. This one was really simple, because I have gone for a dry dusty base, so blood just soaks into the ground rather than pools, so just a touch of Carroburg Crimson over the drybrushed base and you get this effect. No need to gloss it, because of the dry soil just letting it seep in. That's a gruesome point... Until next time, folks!

You can't get to Chaplain levels of angry without training, you know.

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 3
No Comments

It’s another Marine, but he is what I had primed and I just wanted to paint something. I don’t remember which special edition mini this is (I have Sergeant Jovian in my head, but that might not be right), but I decided a while ago that I was going to paint him as a trainee Chaplain and use him as a Lieutenant in games, though I already have a LOT of them lying around… Anyway, it’s just the main mini for now because I never got around to priming the dead ork on the base, so that’ll have to wait for later.

I tried to create a First Nations skin tone for the chap, though I'm not sure if I got it quite right. I haven't decided yet if it's a bit too brown in tone, but it's a good approximation considering this is supposed to be a long way in the future.I tried to create a First Nations skin tone for the chap, though I'm not sure if I got it quite right. I haven't decided yet if it's a bit too brown in tone, but it's a good approximation considering this is supposed to be a long way in the future.

Specifically, I was going for a Haudensaunee look (Iroquois for those who aren’t aware of their own name for themselves) which is why I picked purple and white for the heraldry colours. I was going to try and do a whole shin guard in purple with the white symbol on the Haudensaunee Confederacy flag, but free-handing squares is a pain and the purple just didn’t stand out enough from the blue, so I improvised a bit. The knee pad is reverse colours of the flag with just the central ‘fire’ symbol shown.

The black arm and helmet is the symbolic mark of someone chosen as a trainee Chaplain (they do have a specific name, but I don't remember it), but I decided a bit of a red design would stand out nicely on the pad and even went for a slash mark across the eye, though from the damage his helmet has taken in the fight he may have picked to wrong eye. I'm blaming the mini and not the fact that I didn't want to paint it over the sculpted battle damage. That sculpted damage was a pain...The black arm and helmet is the symbolic mark of someone chosen as a trainee Chaplain (they do have a specific name, but I don't remember it), but I decided a bit of a red design would stand out nicely on the pad and even went for a slash mark across the eye, though from the damage his helmet has taken in the fight he may have picked to wrong eye. I'm blaming the mini and not the fact that I didn't want to paint it over the sculpted battle damage. That sculpted damage was a pain...
I might have to fix the Chapter Badge here, because it really isn't straight...but if I do that I'll have to modify the badge to fit over the battle damage...which is annoying. We'll have to see if I feel like it...but the thing being off centre is starting to bother me already...I might have to fix the Chapter Badge here, because it really isn't straight...but if I do that I'll have to modify the badge to fit over the battle damage...which is annoying. We'll have to see if I feel like it...but the thing being off centre is starting to bother me already...
And the traditional Lloyd Shot. I think I might have to run some darker paint into the larger dents across the mini as well, so he's pretty much done, but there's some things I might add before I finish the base and declare him 'finished', but we'll see.And the traditional Lloyd Shot. I think I might have to run some darker paint into the larger dents across the mini as well, so he's pretty much done, but there's some things I might add before I finish the base and declare him 'finished', but we'll see.

So other than those possible changes and tweaks, he’s done except for the base. Not sure what to do with the ork, to be honest, but I might try and make him a bit fun and bright just to counter some of the darker tones I have on the main mini, but we’ll have to see what I come up with.

Everything is better with chainswords...and friends, I suppose, but mainly chainswords.

Tutoring 4
Skill 5
Idea 4
No Comments

Finished up the other 4 Marines from my Assault Intercessor squad. Pretty pleased with how they turned out, even if it did take me a bit longer than I planned to finish them up. They will eventually get some grass tufts on their bases; I just don’t have any right now. Anyway, here’s the gang!

The next two I’ve taken to calling the Twins…seeing as they’re duplicate poses…obviously. I could have done some work to change them up a bit, but I just didn’t feel like it, so these chaps are the main reason for the random panels being picked out in red. I also noticed when taking the pictures that one is a bit of a darker blue than the other…must have had less paint on the bristles when drybrushing and not noticed it… I also gave one of them a bullet decal, which is apparently a badge for accuracy. Either way, these guys started the whole thing of putting some kind of pattern or something individual on the armour, and I like how that idea turned out.

And now with extra Sergeant!

I didn't have the stuff to do a full scenic shot of them, so this upturned plate will have to do. Sorry about that.I didn't have the stuff to do a full scenic shot of them, so this upturned plate will have to do. Sorry about that.
Would have looked a lot better if I had, but alas.Would have looked a lot better if I had, but alas.
The plate is clean, at least, so there's that.The plate is clean, at least, so there's that.
And final a group Lloyd shot. Not as interesting on Marines, but such is life.And final a group Lloyd shot. Not as interesting on Marines, but such is life.

Not sure what’s up next as school is right around the corner, but I have another Marine primed that I was going to paint as a trainee Chaplain…but I also want to get my Murder Girls finished and there’s only one lady left to paint there, so we’ll see.

Long time to paint one mini...

Tutoring 8
Skill 9
Idea 8
No Comments

Almost 2 months since my last post…that’s longer than I thought it was… Anyway, moving problems and just general burnout and other issues finally subsided enough for me to get something done. It technically hasn’t taken me 2 months to paint one mini…but I have been working on this group for almost a month-ish. Efficiency!

 

Anyway, there was a bit of a ‘sell off your spares’ thingy at my FLGS in early July and I managed to snag 5 Assault Intercessors for a damn good price and they were already primed, too. Had to do one head fix because the pose was just awful, and they were primed white instead of my typical blue, but it was a VERY good price. Basecoating Marine armour is not something I’ve done for a while with a brush, though, so that stage just took a long time. I decided, though, that following my additions of heraldry on many of my minis I also wanted to take the idea of individualism that little bit further and took a bit of inspiration from the Clone Wars series. If they can make literal clones of the same man look like individuals, then I could do it with Marines.

I did this with red panels in various places across the armour and chose the (Marine's) right greave on the Sergeant. Going with red means that I can keep the company colours the same while still adding some individual flare to the armour.I did this with red panels in various places across the armour and chose the (Marine's) right greave on the Sergeant. Going with red means that I can keep the company colours the same while still adding some individual flare to the armour.
I also added a red strip to the casing on his chainsword just to add a little more personal flare, though this I'm keeping with the Sergeant. I did think of adding the white stripe of a Veteran Sergeant, but I'm saving that for rewards if the squad does well in a game...because I will be able to play games again eventually...right?I also added a red strip to the casing on his chainsword just to add a little more personal flare, though this I'm keeping with the Sergeant. I did think of adding the white stripe of a Veteran Sergeant, but I'm saving that for rewards if the squad does well in a game...because I will be able to play games again eventually...right?
The tilting shield here has some obvious influences that I wanted to go for. Sadly I had no dragon transfers lying around, but I think the red sword works quite nicely and still gives the right feel for the design. It's also a very nice contrast to the rest of the mini.The tilting shield here has some obvious influences that I wanted to go for. Sadly I had no dragon transfers lying around, but I think the red sword works quite nicely and still gives the right feel for the design. It's also a very nice contrast to the rest of the mini.
And the traditional Lloyd Shot.And the traditional Lloyd Shot.

I did say I got a squad of them…and I did start them at the same time, but I’m not very good at batch painting and just decided to steam on with the Sergeant. But the others are coming too…slowly. I also apologise for the lighting in the pictures, but that’s a bit downside of living in a basement. I really wish I could have got a proper student house, but you get what you can find these days. Anyway, here’s the proof of the others, and hopefully I can get them done over the next week or so.

Long time to paint one mini...

"They say those northmen are a savage folk, and their woods are full of wolves."

Tutoring 7
Skill 8
Idea 7
No Comments

I suppose it’s cheating to take quotes for the titles of these Game of Thrones chaps…but it takes me just as long to find the ‘perfect’ quote as it does to come up with a witty (or just usually god awful) pun, so it is what it is.

I’m still sort of stuck with single minis at the moment for a number of reasons, so this banner chap is all I’ve been working on the the past day or so. I wasn’t really paying attention to how much time I spent on him this time round…so I don’t have that info. That being said there were a few things I was trying out that I wanted to go over in detail. Firstly I decided that I wanted the mini to look much more practical (let’s ignore the Stark colours on the tabard here) but also have some interest in colours, so I wanted to do something a bit different with the chainmail that makes up a fair bit of the mini.

Fairly simple work here going from a basecoat of Leadbelcher (GW) followed by a coat of Wyldwood Contrast (GW) to give the oily brown look before drybrushing another layer of Leadbelcher over the top just to add a bit more of a metallic look. You could do this with Agrax Earthshade (GW), but the colour is not as deep as with the contrast as you will see with the rest of the metal being done with Agrax over the Leadbelcher.

The rest of the mini was painted using normal methods, but I did want to go over the banner a little as it is the same as the tabard…but with extra steps. The tabard was just done with a Celestra Grey (GW) up to White Scar (GW) transition, but there’s a few extra bits I did with the banner that I wanted to go over.

To start with I covered the banner with a coat of Nuln Oil (GW). This was to try and deepen the shadows a little, but really you could skip this as you can see it does very little (though if you’d use a brighter prime then maybe it would do more good). Over that I thinned Celestra Grey and coated that over the whole banner but focused successive layers onto the folds to try and build some shade tones…it sort of worked. This is the same method as for the basecoat on the tabard though not quite to such an extreme level. After that I moved on to Ulthuan Grey (GW) to build up the highlights on those folds. I tried to be a subtle as possible, though you can see some stark (accidental pun) contrast between the two colours that I fixed later on.

Then I moved up to White Scar and focused even smaller areas on the folds. This Celestra Grey > Ulthuan Grey > White Scar is the method I used for the tabard. On the banner, though, I found the colours to be too blocky and un-blended so I topped the flag with a glaze made up from White Scar mixed with Lahmian Medium (about 4:1 with medium to white) just to blend it out.

After that I painted the wolf with some black to grey general steps and picked out the trim on the flag with a green as a small homage to the TV series that for some reason added green to the Stark colours. Basically I didn’t know what colour to put there so I picked green. It works. I also took the time to try and add some black lines to the edges of the white to frame it a little better. In the end he ended up like this:

Like how he turned out and compared to my Lannister bannerman he does look a lot less ostentatious...even with the highly impractical white tabard... :PLike how he turned out and compared to my Lannister bannerman he does look a lot less ostentatious...even with the highly impractical white tabard... :P
I think when I paint more of these chaps I'll start changing up some of the different colours of the various leather parts and some of the shields. I might even change up the tabards a little, but that's a problem for later.I think when I paint more of these chaps I'll start changing up some of the different colours of the various leather parts and some of the shields. I might even change up the tabards a little, but that's a problem for later.
Seeing as he's carrying the banner I wanted to have a fully painted shield. Pretty pleased with how it turned out. I might change the wolves to look a little more grey than black eventually; the black is just a monochrome for the icon.Seeing as he's carrying the banner I wanted to have a fully painted shield. Pretty pleased with how it turned out. I might change the wolves to look a little more grey than black eventually; the black is just a monochrome for the icon.
And the traditional Lloyd shot. No basing on yet just because I have no basing stuff left, but I'll get some on there eventually.And the traditional Lloyd shot. No basing on yet just because I have no basing stuff left, but I'll get some on there eventually.

So minus the wolf motifs possibly changing to a brighter grey colour, he’s all done! Pleased with how he turned out…though when I get to painting the rest I may not go quite to in-depth on the paintwork… 😛

Ashes to chimneys, and dust to tracks...doesn't have the same ring to it, really...

Tutoring 7
Skill 8
Idea 7
No Comments

Weathering! A fun little final step with vehicles/armour/scenery/ect. Final being an important part of this…seeing as this tank has been unweathered for quite some time…as is evident from the horrid ‘before’ picture because I’m an idiot and didn’t think to take a new one before I started…

The lighting is bad, the focus is awful, and you can barely see what I'm trying to show but the paintwork looks 'clean'...I hope...The lighting is bad, the focus is awful, and you can barely see what I'm trying to show but the paintwork looks 'clean'...I hope...

So that terrible picture aside, what I wanted to go for with this mini was a clean tank but one that is in action. Even a newly painted tank has to drive to the fight, so the main focuses here were dust and some water streaks from splashing through puddles. This is why I’ve mainly focused toward the bottom of the vehicle.

For the dust I used Tallarn Sand (GW) as a drybrush along the lower portion of the tank. I tried to brush in a circular motion to show a bit of turbulence in deposition, but in parts that wasn’t as easy to do. In parts I followed this with a lighter drybrush of Ushabti Bone (GW) in places. I did this before the streaks as I wanted them to be more like water run-off so have some darker streaks over the dried dust to look like wetter parts. I will plan on putting a base on the tank eventually and I don’t plan on adding any water to it, but I like to think that at least one river could have been crossed to get to the fight.

The focus is still not perfect...I really need to check what my settings are on my phone...The focus is still not perfect...I really need to check what my settings are on my phone...

The vents all over the hull were coated in thinned Black Templar Contrast (GW). Just thinned it with water to deliberately change the properties a little bit. If you used the Contrast Medium (GW) I suspect it would look a little smoother, but I was going for something a little rough. The other streaks were done with Wyldwood Contrast (GW) in a similar manner and applied to areas where water should pool and then dragged down to create the streaks. I might have gone a little too far with the glacis plate in the front but I did limite the number of streaks I put on the turret to show the lower chance of water splashing that high in general use. On the top plate I just dropped some of this colour into recesses where the water would pool.

Also helps the decals look like part of the vehicle when I can drag some streaks over them.Also helps the decals look like part of the vehicle when I can drag some streaks over them.

To show some smoke and soot from the chimney stacks I drybrushed and stippled Corvus Black (GW) around the top of the chimneys and around the cutouts on the sides of them to add a bit of discolouration. Didn’t go overboard here as I just wanted to show use rather than heavy use without deep cleaning going on. I want my Marines to look clean so it plays into the angelic side of their nature. If this was a Guard tank I would weather the thing to hell. 😛

This a better focused look at the different types of weathering across the side plate. Not Lloyd shot today...unless you count the pic above as a half-Lloyd...This a better focused look at the different types of weathering across the side plate. Not Lloyd shot today...unless you count the pic above as a half-Lloyd...

Still not sure about that front plate…but for now I don’t have any Macragge Blue to tidy it up a bit, so it’ll have to stay as it is for now. Of course chipping is another method of weathering that can be done, but that’ll have to be saved for the next Bolt Action tank I work on…which might be a while away (I need to do more infantry first…).

Running some test and doing some maintenance.

Tutoring 6
Skill 6
Idea 6
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Just running a few tests on image size and doing some general background work on the project, so my apologies if this keeps popping up on the feed for a while. As a consolation prize, here’s a picture of a cool rock I have; it’s a granite pebble.

Running some test and doing some maintenance.

Ok, the faffing about should be done now. Project should run smoother, faster, and more reliably with the reduced pictures…we didn’t need that level of zoom…

"How many monsters does Lord Tywin have?"

Tutoring 6
Skill 6
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Vargo Hoat is done…almost… I missed a clasp on the end of the belt but I’ll fix that later. I managed to avoid screwing up the cloak while getting to the other details and I managed to get my idea for fancy trousers done too! Most of the colours are fairly simple tones for leather and such. The skin tone is entirely contrast but to give a slightly different tone I used more sandy colours like Ushabti Bone (GW) as the base coat so that slightly more brown tone shows through. It’s not perfect, but it works well enough.

The trousers were something I haven’t done very often with stripes, so I decided to paint the trousers in blue first and highlighted them right up (I used the same pattern of colours as the Royal Artillery Officer’s jacket below). After that I took some thinned Celestra Grey (GW) to paint the white stripes. Using the thin paint allows some of the shading of the blue to show through, then it’s a matter of highlighting up to some pure white. Actually a bit simpler than I thought it would be, though painting in straight lines is a bit tricky sometimes…

Just ignore the grey clasp on the end of the belt... Other than that boo-boo I think he turned out well.Just ignore the grey clasp on the end of the belt... Other than that boo-boo I think he turned out well.
Not much change on the sides and back...seeing as the cloak is such a large part of the mini.Not much change on the sides and back...seeing as the cloak is such a large part of the mini.
The fur turned out quite nicely. Zandri Dust (GW) shaded with Seraphim Sepia (GW) and then Agrax Earthshade (GW) closer towards the collar before highlighting with Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull (GW).The fur turned out quite nicely. Zandri Dust (GW) shaded with Seraphim Sepia (GW) and then Agrax Earthshade (GW) closer towards the collar before highlighting with Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull (GW).
And the Lloyd shot!And the Lloyd shot!

No immediate plans for a next project at the moment. Dealing with a bit of hobby burnout (or just general burnout) at the moment. I might do something a little different next time just because I like to keep up with things like this. I might do something geologic that I could tie to hobby time…maybe following on from a conversation of painting stone golems as different rock types…but who knows.

"A man who fights for coin is loyal only to his purse."

Tutoring 5
Skill 5
Idea 5
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Next model I’m working on is Vargo Hoat from A Song of Ice and Fire Miniatures Game by CMON. To begin with I wasn’t really sure what I wanted to do with this mini before I realised he had quite a lovely cloak (that probably didn’t come from Essos). Vargo is one of those characters that everyone dislikes, even the fictional people within the books (I don’t think he made it into the TV series…), but he does switch sides at one point from the Lannisters to Roose Bolton and I though a turncloak with a nice cloak was too good an opportunity to pass up.

The outside of the cloak is in Lannister red, but the facings and the lining of his cloak is in the Bolton colours of a reddish pink colours. There’s not as much contrast between these colours as there would be between the red and the white of the Starks, but I like this subtle look a little more. That being said, it looks a little more interesting than everything being a dark shade of brown and/or black particularly bearing in mind that much of his armour is studded leather.

In a move I've not really tried before, I chose a base colour and shade for the entire cloak that didn't really match the end colours. Here I used a deep purple (Xereus Purple from GW) and then shaded it with a purple shade (Druchii Violet from GW). This I used as a base for both colours as an almost pre-shade colour that is almost completely layered over, though using thinned paints.In a move I've not really tried before, I chose a base colour and shade for the entire cloak that didn't really match the end colours. Here I used a deep purple (Xereus Purple from GW) and then shaded it with a purple shade (Druchii Violet from GW). This I used as a base for both colours as an almost pre-shade colour that is almost completely layered over, though using thinned paints.
The pink colour on the lining was done with Screamer Pink and Pink Horror from GW using thin layers of Screamer Pink to cover all but the deepest recesses of the purple base colour before grading up to Pink Horror before picking out some edges with Cadian Fleshtone (GW).The pink colour on the lining was done with Screamer Pink and Pink Horror from GW using thin layers of Screamer Pink to cover all but the deepest recesses of the purple base colour before grading up to Pink Horror before picking out some edges with Cadian Fleshtone (GW).
The red used a similar pattern of Mephiston Red to Evil Sunz Scarlet to a final highlight of Wild Rider Red (all GW) with the Wild Rider Red focusing on just the sharpest point so as to not turn the look too orange.The red used a similar pattern of Mephiston Red to Evil Sunz Scarlet to a final highlight of Wild Rider Red (all GW) with the Wild Rider Red focusing on just the sharpest point so as to not turn the look too orange.
And the traditional Lloyd shot. Really pleased with how the cloak turned out. The lighting is a bit wierd on this pictures as it seems to blur out some of the deep folds, but hopefully once he's all finished up that won't be an issue in the final pictures.And the traditional Lloyd shot. Really pleased with how the cloak turned out. The lighting is a bit wierd on this pictures as it seems to blur out some of the deep folds, but hopefully once he's all finished up that won't be an issue in the final pictures.

The real downside with being this happy about the cloak is that I’m a bit afraid to paint anything else in case I spill onto it and ruin it… Ah well. The show goes on. Timing wise this did take a fair bit of time with all of the thin layers and such, but in total and counting drying time for the shades I got this done in about 2 hours. The longer you take here, the smoother your transitions will be, but if you do find some things looking a little stark once you’re done a nice glaze of either red or pink should sort that out nicely.

Happy hobby everyone.

*EDIT* I tweaked the brightness on the pictures a little to make the colours look a little better…they were just too bright.

From the Line to the Guns

Tutoring 6
Skill 6
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This one is a bit of a repaint, because I just got the idea in my head to make a Napoleonic Wars Royal Artillery ‘command stand’. I’ll add more before I get them all based together, I think, but for now this chap was a quick starting point. So let’s start with how he was…

He's one of the plastic Perrys that I originally painted up as a company officer (he only has one epaulette) of the 57th Foot. I painted him several years ago now, so it's also a nice opportunity to see how much better my painting has gotten since then...I hope. He's one of the plastic Perrys that I originally painted up as a company officer (he only has one epaulette) of the 57th Foot. I painted him several years ago now, so it's also a nice opportunity to see how much better my painting has gotten since then...I hope.

I decided to cover over what was that as the detail was still pretty good, and dug out some reference images. I’ve gotten pretty close, I think, but there is one definite inaccuracy and one probably inaccuracy. The definite one is merely a result of using an Infantry sculpt as a ‘stand-in’ as the Royal Artillery did not have square cross-belt buckles like this chap, they had oval ones, but I wasn’t going to try and fix that on a mini of this scale. The second probable inaccuracy are the turnbacks on the jacket tails. They did switch to red (as you can see below) but most of the pictures of Napoleonic officers in the post-1812 short tail coats and I suspect that the tails on the pre-1812 jackets would have had white turnbacks. I might fix that. I probably won’t.

You can see the red turnback on the officer here, but this is a later uniform than what I have with the longer tails. The rest of the uniform is a good marker for colours, though.You can see the red turnback on the officer here, but this is a later uniform than what I have with the longer tails. The rest of the uniform is a good marker for colours, though.

And here’s what I ended up with!

The jacket is Kantor Blue (GW) shaded with Druchii Violet (GW), then re-layed with Kantor Blue and highlighted with Alaitoc Blue (GW). As the trousers already had some shading before I simply re-layered with Ulthuan Grey (GW) before highlighting with White Scar (GW).The jacket is Kantor Blue (GW) shaded with Druchii Violet (GW), then re-layed with Kantor Blue and highlighted with Alaitoc Blue (GW). As the trousers already had some shading before I simply re-layered with Ulthuan Grey (GW) before highlighting with White Scar (GW).
The officer's sash around his waist is painted with Screamer Pink (GW) and shaded with Carroburg Crimson (GW) before highlighting of some fo the folds with Pink Horror (GW). Sergeants and above also wear sashes like this, however they are much more red and contain a stripe of facing colour (or equivalent) down the middle of the sash. CSMs and RSMs may have worn sashes more like the officers, though that would depend on the wealth of those men, really.The officer's sash around his waist is painted with Screamer Pink (GW) and shaded with Carroburg Crimson (GW) before highlighting of some fo the folds with Pink Horror (GW). Sergeants and above also wear sashes like this, however they are much more red and contain a stripe of facing colour (or equivalent) down the middle of the sash. CSMs and RSMs may have worn sashes more like the officers, though that would depend on the wealth of those men, really.
The sword knot (the black bit on the sword handle) is also a bit of an inaccuracy. Typically Officers had fancy golden knots that were more for show that purprose, but I went with a black colour here simlpy for a bit of contrast. It could either be a field replacement or simply a cheaper one for the battlefield and leave the good one at home for parades.The sword knot (the black bit on the sword handle) is also a bit of an inaccuracy. Typically Officers had fancy golden knots that were more for show that purprose, but I went with a black colour here simlpy for a bit of contrast. It could either be a field replacement or simply a cheaper one for the battlefield and leave the good one at home for parades.
And the traditional Lloyd. The red colour on the facings is just Mephiston Red (GW) highlighted with Evil Suns Scarlet (GW). In places where there were deeper recesses I rand some Carrbourg Crimson into those, but there wasn't too many in this case. I wanted to maintain a bright red to contrast the dark blue nicely.And the traditional Lloyd. The red colour on the facings is just Mephiston Red (GW) highlighted with Evil Suns Scarlet (GW). In places where there were deeper recesses I rand some Carrbourg Crimson into those, but there wasn't too many in this case. I wanted to maintain a bright red to contrast the dark blue nicely.

All in all, and considering some painting breaks, this chap took me a couple of hours to get done. That is considering him being a repaint rather than a ‘ground up’ job, so there would be more time taken if I had to shade the trousers and such. I plan to combine this chap with a drummer and a mounted senior officer as a command stand at some point, but that’s a problem for later on. For now he’ll just go on the shelf of things I’ve finished…twice… I wish I could remove the Spring Clean Competition thing from my project because this hasn’t really turned out to be much about spring cleaning and more about painting what I fancy and have paints for at the time…

Anyhoo… Happy painting, folks!

In a better light.

Tutoring 6
Skill 6
Idea 6
1 Comment

Better…though not perfect… One day I’ll have a decent set up for mini photos…

Chiss bird first this time. I guess with eyes like that I shouldn't really call her anything other than Chiss. :PChiss bird first this time. I guess with eyes like that I shouldn't really call her anything other than Chiss. :P
And the stern looking chap with the electro-monocle. And the stern looking chap with the electro-monocle.

Some experiments in skin tones.

Tutoring 5
Skill 5
Idea 5
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Second time writing this, as it just completely failed to post before (I’m guessing the image gallery thing is still causing problems), but here we go again!

I’ve been wanting to do some experiments with various skin tones for several years now. Other than some Tau skin tones a LONG time ago I’ve never really branched out much from what I know and I decided I may as well learn some new recipes for more diverse tones. Still have some experiments I want to try, but I’ve got a couple of them sorted here.

First one is a borrowed recipe from Tuffyears that they used for some Zulus a few weeks ago (at least I think it was weeks…I lose track of time very easily these days…). I added a few extra steps and I may have highlighted a little high, but we’ll get to that in a bit. Second experiment is a Chiss skin tone (Grand Admiral Thrawn) partly in honour of Sundancer’s ever-lasting quest for Star Wars: Epic Legion and partly because I’ve been on a bit of a Star Wars kick myself recently. I suppose you could also use this tone for Tau as well, if you REALLY wanted to. 😛 That being said what I came up with is typically a bit darker than Tau tones are usually depicted, and possibly could do with some brighter stages for Chiss as well, or at least how Thrawn appears in Star Wars Rebels.

The minis I’ve used are Delaques from GW and Necromunda, and the lighting on the pictures is not the greatest. I was going to wait until the morning with the better light for final shots, but I’m afraid of forgetting what paints I used…because I’m an idiot… so here goes!

The basecoat here was Dryad Bark (GW) before being followed with an all over shade of Druchii Violet (GW). Something I did, but didn’t take a step-by-step picture for was to reapply the Dryad Bark basecoat to the top of the head and a little to the back of the hands, though this is not a necessity (definitely not if painting a mini with hair). Following on from that I applied an initial highlight of Gorthor Brown (GW) remembering to try and keep the paint a little thin and applying a few coats if needed. The main focus is on the facial structure, through the hands on these minis have quite well defined tendons as well and this chap, being bald, had a few wrinkles on the back of his head. This step was one of the longest (20-ish minutes) as the more careful you are the better the final look. The final spot highlight was done with Ungor Flesh (GW) and may have been a jump too high. For example this chaps nose looks rather bright. I’d advise replacing the Ungor Flesh with a darker tone like Cadian Flesh Tone (GW) just to keep that slight warm tone in the extremities. That being said, if you were to paint a mini with an outstretched hand the Ungor Flesh would work wonders for highlighting the palm to get that slightly brighter tone.

All in all this skin tone took me somewhere around 1 and a quarter to one and a half hours to finish, though if you cut that final highlight it will save you 10-15 minutes.

The pictures here are a little out of focus…my apologies for that…bad lighting is always a problem and I’m not a fan of the flash…

Basecoat here was Kantor Blue (GW) You could use Macragge Blue (GW) for a bright basecoat or even Stegadon Scale Green (GW) if you want a more green tint to the overall look. Over this I shaded with Druchii Violet (GW). Again, Drakenhof Nightshade (GW) is another option for a more blue look however over a basecoat as dark as Kantor Blue I tend to find it is not as visible as Druchii Violet. As I was going for a Chiss look (and the eyes on the Delaques are very buldging) I decided to go for painting the eyes. After the shade had dried I took the opportunity to paint the eyes with Mephiston Red (GW) and then layered Alaitoc Blue (GW) onto the skin. This is done to brighten the tone up so apply this more broadly, just avoid deeper recesses. I found this coloured worked well thinned more than usual and slowly built up in a few layers. This adds time to the scheme, but the final result is a little smoother. Over this I highlighted with Hoeth Blue (GW) and picked out the center of the eyes with Evil Sunz Scarlet (GW). If you wanted to push the highlights a little further, you could also add some Fenrisian Grey (GW), though I didn’t here.

This scheme took a little less time, as I didn’t have to be as careful with the Alaitoc Blue, but if you do choose to push the highlights to Fenrisian Grey it’s take about the same time as the other tone above. If you don’t go that far, this took me a little over an hour.

It both these cases, be aware that if you have larger areas of skin, or add your shade a little thicker than I did the timings could take longer due to the drying time of the shade paints. I was being fairly careful with my shades here so that cut down the drying time a bit.

Hopefully tomorrow I can add some extra pictures of the finished skin tones with better light. I might add them as a new entry or I might just add them to the end of this one, we’ll see. Happy painting!

Paint shortage is a bit of an issue...

Tutoring 5
Skill 5
Idea 5
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So the plan for the next mini was something other than Bolt Action… Primed a Space Marine and everything…then realised that I actually don’t have the paint for his armour because it dried up and I had to chuck it. I was not impressed.

Anyhoo… I do want to get a playable force of Brits for Bolt Action done though at the moment painting batches is not that simple of a task what with trying to move but also not actually having a place to move to yet, so I sort of get stuck with individual minis when time allows, so here is my officer for my platoon.

Technically he is a mini of CSM Stanley Hollis VC from Warlord Games, but I've painted him up as an officer here, though do look up CSM Hollis; he's the only VC from D-Day.Technically he is a mini of CSM Stanley Hollis VC from Warlord Games, but I've painted him up as an officer here, though do look up CSM Hollis; he's the only VC from D-Day.

There’s a few things here that I’d like to go over in terms of accuracy, so if you’re not as into that sort of thing as I am bare with me for a bit.

First thing to discuss is the boots because I’ve made a little boo-boo with recent minis, but it’s not a big deal so I won’t go back and fix it. Long story short, the regular soldiers were issued with black boot, whereas officers had brown. Imagine Captain Mainwaring telling Sergeant Wilson he’s got the wrong coloured boots on because he’s not an officer. Now I’ve only made this mistake with some of my minis so I’m just going to say that some of the chaps in the platoon have managed to ‘acquire’ some nicer boots from somewhere and put it all down to the ‘use what you can get’ adage that so often occurs in war.

The second ‘inaccuracy’ is the fact that this chap has the full kit; pack and all. Now TYPICALLY officers were not prescribed such things in their uniform which is why many officer minis you see are not wearing packs. That being said, if only one chap isn’t wearing a pack he sort of stands out so it stands to reason that an officer who wants to last needs to blend in with his men a little bit more. In this case, I have two explainations: 1. The Sergeant has taken it upon himself to make sure this Rupert makes it home so has given him spare kit to help him blend in. 2. He’s a soldier been promoted up from the ranks and just kept his old kit because it’s cheaper than buying new.

For anyone who has this mini and wants to more accurately depict him as Hollis, you should use the 3rd Division badges that come in the new British Infantry box from Warlord (the black and red Triforce badge).For anyone who has this mini and wants to more accurately depict him as Hollis, you should use the 3rd Division badges that come in the new British Infantry box from Warlord (the black and red Triforce badge).
Another option is no badges at all to make your chaps more 'free'. The Regimental badge at the top of the sleeve was always there, but you can paint in a little curve of appropriate colour rather than use decals. Technically speaking, soldiers were supposed to not wear all their badges so as to prevent the enemy working out which divisions were where...put not everyone followed such rules.Another option is no badges at all to make your chaps more 'free'. The Regimental badge at the top of the sleeve was always there, but you can paint in a little curve of appropriate colour rather than use decals. Technically speaking, soldiers were supposed to not wear all their badges so as to prevent the enemy working out which divisions were where...put not everyone followed such rules.
And the traditional Lloyd shot.And the traditional Lloyd shot.

On the subject of Regimental badges or unit patches (the curved band above the square division badge) they can be left off easily enough as well for those who aren’t fans of decals or freehand work. If anyone decides to be a FARB (otherwise referred to as a dick) because ‘yOu DoN’T hAvE tHe RiGhT BaDgE’, then just tell them your chaps decided to go the whole hog in preventing unit information getting to the enemy. Remember, if you’re captured it’s name, rank, and number you give.

If you do want to add them, then the simple rules are red for infantry, blue for artillery, green for Rifle regiments, and (I think) yellow for armoured. I’m not sure on that last one, though…

And with that my Platoon Command is all done. A Rupert and his Sergeant along with the Radioman to make sure everyone knows about their adventures together! Or more importantly to get the instructions. Radios are important things, you know.And with that my Platoon Command is all done. A Rupert and his Sergeant along with the Radioman to make sure everyone knows about their adventures together! Or more importantly to get the instructions. Radios are important things, you know.

So this one is technically cheating...

Tutoring 5
Skill 6
Idea 6
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The only thing I have done in the past few days on these chaps is to re-colour the webbing using the methods below…the Tommies themselves have been painted for years… Though I would like the opportunity to remind everyone out there that using a palette really can help…I was too lazy to get mine out and I may have put on too much in places. Some of them even needed some matting down because the shade when on a bit shiny… Patience is a virtue, and I’m just not that virtuous…

Single 10 man Infantry Section. Cpl., L/Cpl, Bren Gunner, and Loader (as shown by many extra ammo pouches...Single 10 man Infantry Section. Cpl., L/Cpl, Bren Gunner, and Loader (as shown by many extra ammo pouches...
And Lloyd shots...that honestly show of more of what I actually re-coloured...And Lloyd shots...that honestly show of more of what I actually re-coloured...

Hopefully something non-BA will be worked on next…but things are a little tricky with not really being able to keep too much stuff out while I get ready for moving…

I swear I will stop banging on about webbing at some point...but here's more!

Tutoring 8
Skill 8
Idea 8
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So I did mention before that I had a bunch of beige webbing on other Tommies that needed changing, so I thought I’d go over some of my experiments to re-colour them rather than just re-paint the whole chaps. Here I’m doing it using washes from Citadel but I would think that similar paints from other companies would also work. I would advise against the Contrast paints, unless you thin them down just because of the coverage you get. As you’ll see, the ability to add a few coats to subtly change colours is really useful. And while I have used this for webbing, you can use similar ideas to shift with all sorts of colours. You want your old beige minis to have some yellow panels? You can do that with these same ideas.

So here's where I started. On the left is a Sergeant that I painted the webbing on recently to my 'new standard', in the middle is a Sniper that I experimented on a while back with some Athonian Camoshade, and on the right is a Spotter with the original beige colour I painted.So here's where I started. On the left is a Sergeant that I painted the webbing on recently to my 'new standard', in the middle is a Sniper that I experimented on a while back with some Athonian Camoshade, and on the right is a Spotter with the original beige colour I painted.

The first experiment I wanted to try was to try and tint the Sniper to be a bit more green, so I got some Biel-Tan Green shade that is a much more green shade rather than the brown-green colour of Athonian Camoshade. Using a shade means that the colours below will show through a bit so I can keep some highlights I did earlier. I also had to remember what I had done before with the Athonian Camoshade and discovered that I must have used two coats of the paint to reach the colour previously on the Sniper.

Same figure on the left, Sniper with the coat of Biel-Tan Green added, and the Spotter with just the one coat of Athonian Camoshade. This is where I noticed the original colour must have been two coats.Same figure on the left, Sniper with the coat of Biel-Tan Green added, and the Spotter with just the one coat of Athonian Camoshade. This is where I noticed the original colour must have been two coats.

And so the final result looks a pretty good match and was quick and easy to re-colour using only two paints. I could possibly get away with just the Biel-Tan Green, but I like the slight brown tint I get this way…

The final product, and all Lloyd shots! The final product, and all Lloyd shots!

I might put up a post related to some research for the Archer SP 17pdr that I was doing earlier…but I might not be painting my tank for a while, so I might save it for when I get ready to paint. No more webbing posts now, I promise.

The Cheshires are finally all in the same place!

Tutoring 7
Skill 7
Idea 7
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So if anyone is a little confused with me saying Cheshires when I talked about Hampshires before, don’t worry about it. The Machine Gun regiment for the 50th Division were the 2nd Btln. of the Cheshire Rgt. I know probably no one is concerned with that bit of info, but still. Anyhoo…

The MMG team is all finished and ready for the fight! You’ll get to see the difference dulling down the brighter webbing had here and as I suspected it’s not quite the same as my new chap with the darker paint job, but it’s close enough. Let’s just say the Cpl. knows how to put the blanco on better, shall we?

Hopefully the focus worked properly so we shouldn't have any Gerry shots of the loader and spotter...Hopefully the focus worked properly so we shouldn't have any Gerry shots of the loader and spotter...
The weather is still a bit British over here at the moment, so the pics are a little dark. I love the weather when it's like home, but it does make taking pictures a little tricky...The weather is still a bit British over here at the moment, so the pics are a little dark. I love the weather when it's like home, but it does make taking pictures a little tricky...
I think in future I might go back to using Athonian Camoshade for the wash over the webbing just make it a little more brown, but I'm happy with these as they are.I think in future I might go back to using Athonian Camoshade for the wash over the webbing just make it a little more brown, but I'm happy with these as they are.
One, two, three times a Lloyd shot...One, two, three times a Lloyd shot...

There will definitely be a Universal Carrier coming for these chaps in the future, along side some small changes to other Brits I have already painted. Maybe even the crew from my 6pdr will get repainted to match my NW Europe chaps; they need repainting anyway even if they are still going to stay with my Forgotten Army chaps… So there’s some stuff coming. Might deviate from Bolt Action for a bit, and things might slow down while I’m prepping to move in the next month or so, but things are coming.

At least the Cpl. remembered the compass...

Tutoring 8
Skill 8
Idea 8
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Slightly poor lighting here, but I haven’t attached this chap to the base yet and I wanted to take the opportunity to go over the webbing a little.

For anyone not in on the jargon, ‘webbing’ is the term given to the ammo pouches/packs/assorted accoutrements that the Tommies carried. The name comes from the material it’s made of, but the subject here is the colour. The webbing was a beige colour, but the British used a substance called Blanco to protect the belts and is turned them to a green colour. Now I think there’s variation in this colour, but my original colours on the loader and gunner were far too bright, so I dulled them down with some Agrax Earthshade. For the Cpl. of the section I decided to paint it a bit less bright. Annoyingly this is what I did on the Sgt. I painted a while ago…but forgot about…

The actual gear on this chap is a little different, but the general kit uses the same colours.The actual gear on this chap is a little different, but the general kit uses the same colours.
This may show up better with better light pictures (hopefully available tomorrow), but the main basecoats for the webbing haven't changed and I still use Loren Forest. You could use Castellan Green if you wanted a darker basecoat, though. Over the basecoat I applied the same Biel Tan Shade.This may show up better with better light pictures (hopefully available tomorrow), but the main basecoats for the webbing haven't changed and I still use Loren Forest. You could use Castellan Green if you wanted a darker basecoat, though. Over the basecoat I applied the same Biel Tan Shade.
The main difference here is that I then layer back up with Loren Forest, rather than jumping to Elysian Green. I edge highlight with Elysian Green and if you feel like adding fine highlights of Ogryn Camo, you can, though I didn't here.The main difference here is that I then layer back up with Loren Forest, rather than jumping to Elysian Green. I edge highlight with Elysian Green and if you feel like adding fine highlights of Ogryn Camo, you can, though I didn't here.
And the Lloyd shot! This scheme is a lot closer to the reality of the colours, which is good. You could also probably get away with shading with Agrax Earthshade if you want to save on paints, you'd just have a slightly browner colour to the weebing that still works.And the Lloyd shot! This scheme is a lot closer to the reality of the colours, which is good. You could also probably get away with shading with Agrax Earthshade if you want to save on paints, you'd just have a slightly browner colour to the weebing that still works.

Hopefully the weather will be less overcast tomorrow and I can get some better pictures. I should also have all three chaps on the same base…even if I haven’t got the basing on by then. 😛 May the 4th be with you, you mad buggers!

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