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Spring Cleaning Military Orders

Spring Cleaning Military Orders

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Project Blog by soapdodger Cult of Games Member

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About the Project

Spring cleaning Military Orders models for infinity the game. Hard decisions, rebasing, paint and scenery making ahead.

This Project is Completed

6 P's

Tutoring 14
Skill 14
Idea 15
1 Comment

For those who do not know what the 6p’s are, it’s “proper preparation prevents piss poor performance”

I often charge head first into trouble with projects and thought I should at least write down my intentions. (yeah I already started)

There are three phases to this project

  • Making a set to take photo’s
  • Updating model bases and paint on at least 3 models. To different degrees
  • Rounding my models out to a force.

I think this fits within spring cleaning. the time limit should be good but it is pushing myself a little.

The set for taking photo’s will serve two purposes one for bases and the other is taking pretty pictures. I have just finished designing this and the bases.  it will be like a part of a medieval monastery keeping it old looking to give a great contrast in time and colour to the shiny blue.

The three models I am updating are, Joan of Arc (AG edition), Seraphs, Military Order Armoured Cavalry and it’s Auxbot. Joan is being stripped, remodelled, repainted and rebased. The TAG and bot are being rebased, freehand added and touched up. Two of these models have golden buttons. I am happy with all of them for different reasons but want them to match the rest when they get here.

The rounding out of the force will be in the form of the recent pre order from Corvus belli.

The project will be more of a tutorial format for the painting and modelling but I will keep my 2d design as it’s dull and even duller to talk about.

Flats for the laser cut set.Flats for the laser cut set.
Zoomed in on the floor the bases will use. Zoomed in on the floor the bases will use.
Joan of Arc as it standsJoan of Arc as it stands
Seraphs, Military Order Armoured Cavalry as it standsSeraphs, Military Order Armoured Cavalry as it stands
Auxbot as it standsAuxbot as it stands

This will be tough. In terms of the modelling, painting and my own feelings.

I don’t want to strip Joan, however she has been stripped before. The colour is wrong I don’t like the lollipop head and she has been dropped about 10 times and broken twice. I want to make a more invasive repair and update.

This is a hard decision to come to. This was my 8th or so infinity model to paint. I followed each step in Angels book to the letter and still ended up not looking the same. I think this was also my second or third golden button.

I am however interested on the update and comparison to my painting skills now. I will not be using the AG book to paint the model but my style is heavily influenced by this. It will make a good compare and contrast if I pull it off.

More to come probably stripping Joan and starting on the set.

No plan survives contact with the enemy.

Tutoring 13
Skill 13
Idea 12
No Comments

I got started. My plan was to make the bases then strip/paint the models and then build the set.

 

I laser cut my design for base toppers. I laser cut my design for base toppers.
I sanded with fine grit sandpaper then used sanding sealer on it. This makes them feel and sound like plastic.I sanded with fine grit sandpaper then used sanding sealer on it. This makes them feel and sound like plastic.
I done this for the rest of the base toppers.I done this for the rest of the base toppers.
I then mounted a couple of base toppers to the infinity bases and painted them a few times to see what could be done with MDF and the types of finishes. You can see on the one on the right I tried to grout them or pinwash them but as expected this looked quite poor and would require multiple perfect pin washes to make a good effect (perfection does not exist so I wouldn't recommend this).I then mounted a couple of base toppers to the infinity bases and painted them a few times to see what could be done with MDF and the types of finishes. You can see on the one on the right I tried to grout them or pinwash them but as expected this looked quite poor and would require multiple perfect pin washes to make a good effect (perfection does not exist so I wouldn't recommend this).

When I was doing the bases I thought this is a piss poor plan. If you think about a person walking into a room for a theatre production. It would be a bit odd for the person to stroll out and know what floor they would be standing on before the set was done and their costume on. I has this backwards. (this was quite fortunate)

I did like my 5 or 6 tests I done on the bases. this helped me understand the material as I normally 3D print my base toppers. This will be my first time using MDF in this way.

Instead I will get to work on the set. the bases worked out basically how I would do the floor. This also set the best of my colours. I will use a dark terracotta colour an off white (yellowed white) for some detail or focal sections, deck tan (green grey) for most of the pattern a dark green. with black thrown in. I was also watching time team and seen a few of the tiles and they all seem to be blackened in the middle. Something to do with the process. I will use black wash on the centre for the translucency.

Some things that I considered and decided:

  • I won’t use full white as this will be the highest highlight on models and I will reserve it for that.
  • I wont highlight the floor, but I will on the bases this should make the models be the focal point and jump out from the set.
  • This will be lightly weathered but I should take the weathering from the models and not do this to the base until this is decided.
  • I want the colour selection of everything to be considered. I want the dominant colours to be primary colours. Red, Blue and Yellow. But the focal point should be the models in blue. the Floor red and the walls yellow with some strong graphical elements. This sounds like a horrendous idea but I will play with the tones to try and balance this but make the blue the strongest colour (of the models). This does remind me of my local church and as a kid I spent most of my time looking at anything to keep my attention. All the tones of the church interior were natural but that was sort of the reverse of this with red sandstone walls and a yellow/white marble floor.
  • I want to keep the set very traditional but cut some corners to speed things up. (writing this from the future, this didn’t work out to well)
  • I am off this week and want to get this done so I can start to play with defiance (my reward for prepping for the rest of the models to arrive at the end of this month)

Sandstone Saga part one.

Tutoring 13
Skill 13
Idea 12
1 Comment

As I moved onto the set I thought, you need to do sandstone and stained glass. Quite a good thought. I knew this needed to be yellow (ish) so sand coloured sandstone. Easy yeah?

No, I have fallen out with sandstone in the past. Which is a cheek, If you have ever been to Glasgow where I am you will soon see that about 80% of all buildings are sandstone. I live in a sandstone building and can see at least 40 sandstone buildings by looking out the window. Can I paint it? Yes a small wall of sandstone is easy to paint. you use a variety of colours and can make this pop and look great. It takes time. Time I don’t have.

I needed to practice my way out of this mess. I also needed to check materials I have decided to use.

Frist comes the texture.

Texture test with pumice  AK interactive texture paste, filler, Superglue and PVA and sand. Texture test with pumice AK interactive texture paste, filler, Superglue and PVA and sand.
Painted texture to highlight them so I would get a better feel for the end result. Zenith then skeleton bone.Painted texture to highlight them so I would get a better feel for the end result. Zenith then skeleton bone.

This was an eye opener. All were a little time consuming but I want a highly defined brick shape.  They were done either with a brush or cocktail stick hitting each corner. for the maternal.

  • Pumice was too rough for the scale.
  • AK was good but took a while.
  • Filler didn’t adhere well but gave a good look for the scale.
  • superglue and bicarb was indestructible but mopstly shrank from the edges.
  • PVA and sand was good but a little too rough for the scale.

I would have went for filler but the fragility of it put me right off. That left me with the texture paste.

Material decision made I would have used this as my test piece for painting but I had a few other things to test as well.

 

I done some tests on the window frame I wanted this to have a bezel on the central frame. My laser can only cut in 2D. I came up with a great idea of using very small router bits to do this, my tests didn't go well and when I got it to work properly the smallest router bit I had was not small enough. I ended up hand sanding it. but I will keep this for the future as I will use it to make amazingly complex and high plinths for any painting competitions I enter. I done some tests on the window frame I wanted this to have a bezel on the central frame. My laser can only cut in 2D. I came up with a great idea of using very small router bits to do this, my tests didn't go well and when I got it to work properly the smallest router bit I had was not small enough. I ended up hand sanding it. but I will keep this for the future as I will use it to make amazingly complex and high plinths for any painting competitions I enter.
I also needed to do the stained glass. I have some stained glass paints and a tube of relief paste to draw out the design. It was a relief when I came up with a better option of laser cutting out some 0.5mm cardboard and spraying it black. I then mounted this onto acrylic with spray mount. It was a pain to get the cut settings right as this is extremely fine but it's still got to be fsster the trying to freehand this with a small tube of black toothpaste.   I also needed to do the stained glass. I have some stained glass paints and a tube of relief paste to draw out the design. It was a relief when I came up with a better option of laser cutting out some 0.5mm cardboard and spraying it black. I then mounted this onto acrylic with spray mount. It was a pain to get the cut settings right as this is extremely fine but it's still got to be fsster the trying to freehand this with a small tube of black toothpaste.
I assembled everything and I had my test piece. Looks great but too crisp. I also left on the white'ish backing film on the Perspex on the back to act as a light defuser..I assembled everything and I had my test piece. Looks great but too crisp. I also left on the white'ish backing film on the Perspex on the back to act as a light defuser..

I started work on the stained glass test. It’s been a few years (over 20, sigh) since I have done this. I have never used card as leading. These colours are oil based I think and brushes are cleared with turps/ white spirit. I have 4 colours: Yellow green, blue and magenta. I need 6 one for each window and two tones of each. and a few other elements for logos.  I will do primary an secondary colours and mix tones using a greater addition of the stronger colour. It would be best to have a colour for each white and back but I am not spending money on it so will make do.

The test will be using yellow.

I drop the paint in and move it to the edges Though testing I got less bubbles by dropping in some white spirit before the paint, this seems to get rid of some of the surface tension. I tried to cheat and use white and gloss varnish to do the white sections. This didn't work as it was still very opaque I also tried to make black thinking if I mix all three primery colours it will make a black. it looked black but when you shine light through it, it goes more like a brown yellow colour. but the paints themselves look good but I will need to tidy the frame up after with matt black paint.I drop the paint in and move it to the edges Though testing I got less bubbles by dropping in some white spirit before the paint, this seems to get rid of some of the surface tension. I tried to cheat and use white and gloss varnish to do the white sections. This didn't work as it was still very opaque I also tried to make black thinking if I mix all three primery colours it will make a black. it looked black but when you shine light through it, it goes more like a brown yellow colour. but the paints themselves look good but I will need to tidy the frame up after with matt black paint.
The result when held up to the unusually great Glasgow weather. (it actually snowed and hailed about 3 hours after this)The result when held up to the unusually great Glasgow weather. (it actually snowed and hailed about 3 hours after this)

Sandstone Saga part two.

Tutoring 13
Skill 13
Idea 13
5 Comments

Here is the second part of sandstone saga, spoilers there is yet one more section…

I had my texture and design. Couldn’t be easier, lets paint.

Initial texture with the texture paste, applying with a brush and pushing to sculpt to the sides and using surface tension to stop from going over. A single surface of a good brick took about 60 seconds. This has about 80 brick surfaces on the test piece. Warning bells should have gone off at this point as this took over an hour to do. it's 1/6 the size of one wall... I have two and one is double sided.... But lets keep the focus on sandstone and not the time issue, yeah?Initial texture with the texture paste, applying with a brush and pushing to sculpt to the sides and using surface tension to stop from going over. A single surface of a good brick took about 60 seconds. This has about 80 brick surfaces on the test piece. Warning bells should have gone off at this point as this took over an hour to do. it's 1/6 the size of one wall... I have two and one is double sided.... But lets keep the focus on sandstone and not the time issue, yeah?
First test paint. I done this in about 12 steps changing it each time with help from some of the tutorials on sandstone I could find. Until it was sort of acceptable. I used a verity of colours and washes and relied on the airbrush for all steps (to keep it quick) problem is it's too grey. I needed to call in the big guns and asked the community for help. Someone must know the answer. By the way these photos were internally blurry in most cases they have a focal point at the top and should be blurry towards the bottom. This was to see how it looked in the background out of focus. I sadly forgot to change my camera settings back for a while so there are photo's later on which are unintentionality blurry. First test paint. I done this in about 12 steps changing it each time with help from some of the tutorials on sandstone I could find. Until it was sort of acceptable. I used a verity of colours and washes and relied on the airbrush for all steps (to keep it quick) problem is it's too grey. I needed to call in the big guns and asked the community for help. Someone must know the answer. By the way these photos were internally blurry in most cases they have a focal point at the top and should be blurry towards the bottom. This was to see how it looked in the background out of focus. I sadly forgot to change my camera settings back for a while so there are photo's later on which are unintentionality blurry.
Gerry came to the rescue in house water. I Specifically said I wanted more contrast in the stone. He provided a link, probably from his hobby wank bank, I followed it, it was 45 minutes. I was running out of time I couldn't watch a 45 minute video. I know, I will Bob Ross it and follow along. I skipped the intro and moved along to the first paint.... I paused at the end of each step only taking a few minutes to catch up. This was going great. Amazing sandstone tutorial, if not blurry and the colour balance was off and I had most or close enough to all the paints. So I finished the first of three tutorials to find out it was granite... I have no words even as I type this. I thought there was a magic step to bring in the sandstone... Nope. I really don't want grey.Gerry came to the rescue in house water. I Specifically said I wanted more contrast in the stone. He provided a link, probably from his hobby wank bank, I followed it, it was 45 minutes. I was running out of time I couldn't watch a 45 minute video. I know, I will Bob Ross it and follow along. I skipped the intro and moved along to the first paint.... I paused at the end of each step only taking a few minutes to catch up. This was going great. Amazing sandstone tutorial, if not blurry and the colour balance was off and I had most or close enough to all the paints. So I finished the first of three tutorials to find out it was granite... I have no words even as I type this. I thought there was a magic step to bring in the sandstone... Nope. I really don't want grey.
The next tutorial was done on actual sandstone red and yellow. I followed the yellow sandstone only instructions. This was a base of a tan colour then orange then a red pale flesh colour some overbrush the lighter drybrushed.. I done some stuff at the end to make it slightly lighter than my result and it ended up looking like a good base. But I NEEDED MORE. I was too deep to accept just an ok sandstone colour. I needed something AMAZING and this was not it. Possibly I need think back to my own experience in church and do red sandstone?   The next tutorial was done on actual sandstone red and yellow. I followed the yellow sandstone only instructions. This was a base of a tan colour then orange then a red pale flesh colour some overbrush the lighter drybrushed.. I done some stuff at the end to make it slightly lighter than my result and it ended up looking like a good base. But I NEEDED MORE. I was too deep to accept just an ok sandstone colour. I needed something AMAZING and this was not it. Possibly I need think back to my own experience in church and do red sandstone?
I began to crack, I pulled up a picture of my old childhood church and got to work. Starting with a dark brown base. then overbrushed a hull red colour then adding some sand colour to make a dull pink and dry brushing it on. I picked out some stones using black wash and this looked quite close but not exact. But enough to see the clash with the tile colour. I began to crack, I pulled up a picture of my old childhood church and got to work. Starting with a dark brown base. then overbrushed a hull red colour then adding some sand colour to make a dull pink and dry brushing it on. I picked out some stones using black wash and this looked quite close but not exact. But enough to see the clash with the tile colour.
I thought about starting this from a red base I liked the red and possibly this was the missing component on my sandstone . So I modulated the red on each row of bricks from sandstone to red. I made a movable wooden mask for each section. I then unified this by using the methods from the video. just changing the base really. This again didn't look horrible but it wasn't right. I thought about starting this from a red base I liked the red and possibly this was the missing component on my sandstone . So I modulated the red on each row of bricks from sandstone to red. I made a movable wooden mask for each section. I then unified this by using the methods from the video. just changing the base really. This again didn't look horrible but it wasn't right.
I then took a minute to think. I had been at this all night by this point it was about 12:30am. Then I had an amazing idea. Rail road people must have good looking and quick sandstone. I found a tutorial and followed it. while I think this would work at their scales, it wasn't quite right. It was a basic tan colour a drybrush of a lighter sand colour and making some washes to pick out bricks in red orange and green. The step that did make it look slightly more realistic was the addition of pigment powders. Still not right for 32mm and the sizes of the stones.  I then took a minute to think. I had been at this all night by this point it was about 12:30am. Then I had an amazing idea. Rail road people must have good looking and quick sandstone. I found a tutorial and followed it. while I think this would work at their scales, it wasn't quite right. It was a basic tan colour a drybrush of a lighter sand colour and making some washes to pick out bricks in red orange and green. The step that did make it look slightly more realistic was the addition of pigment powders. Still not right for 32mm and the sizes of the stones.
The battle was over at this point. I started to watch a lecture on sandstone to get ideas, it was talking about the components of sandstone, it wasted by time... Then I thought at 1am I have a great idea! One last through of the dice for tonight. I have a geologist friend. Without thinking I gave him a call. Took him a while to answer I sent photo's of all the sandstone ahead of time. Maybe he was reviewing them. Got a response! Asked my question about the colour of sandstone... was in the middle of being told that sandstone comes in a wide verity of colours and started listing some, great info! Then his wife took the phone and swore at me and hung up. It was at this point that I felt I had got obsessive over sandstone. It had gone to far. I learned my lesson and would need to start from the beginning tomorrow. I glanced at my test piece and it was becoming thick with paint and failure. I wondered, what had I done with my life that day? I would sand it off and start again tomorrow, it was only a test.  Then I sanded it off and it hit me while looking at it's sanded body. I didn't like the colours as the texture wasn't right. Not only that but sandstone bricks are not high contrast. I now had all the tools to do something. So I combined what I liked from each test. The colours and method of the gerry sandstone video. the picking some bricks out with orange and the pigment powders from the railroad tutorial and the new texture. I had it. I had miniature sandstone I was happy with. The battle was over at this point. I started to watch a lecture on sandstone to get ideas, it was talking about the components of sandstone, it wasted by time... Then I thought at 1am I have a great idea! One last through of the dice for tonight. I have a geologist friend. Without thinking I gave him a call. Took him a while to answer I sent photo's of all the sandstone ahead of time. Maybe he was reviewing them. Got a response! Asked my question about the colour of sandstone... was in the middle of being told that sandstone comes in a wide verity of colours and started listing some, great info! Then his wife took the phone and swore at me and hung up. It was at this point that I felt I had got obsessive over sandstone. It had gone to far. I learned my lesson and would need to start from the beginning tomorrow. I glanced at my test piece and it was becoming thick with paint and failure. I wondered, what had I done with my life that day? I would sand it off and start again tomorrow, it was only a test. Then I sanded it off and it hit me while looking at it's sanded body. I didn't like the colours as the texture wasn't right. Not only that but sandstone bricks are not high contrast. I now had all the tools to do something. So I combined what I liked from each test. The colours and method of the gerry sandstone video. the picking some bricks out with orange and the pigment powders from the railroad tutorial and the new texture. I had it. I had miniature sandstone I was happy with.

As you can see from the above. I drove myself crazy. But I did get something I was happy with in the end. There was about another 6 times I painted this thing and didn’t take photo’s. I should have analysed sandstone instead of my idea of sandstone. it’s a great lesson I will forget after submitting this.

Next morning I got up and started on the base. I was behind now. Just as well I planned at the start… 6p’s remember?

The Floor. Part one

Tutoring 12
Skill 12
Idea 12
No Comments

So this project is going great! well planned and flawless. I am so glad I didn’t decide to do my drop fleet, fleet.

I woke up the next day and seen my lovely sandstone. LOVE IT!

Fired up I start to try and laser cut my floor. It wouldn’t load into my software. Problem is my design is full of splines which is another word for very complex line. Not a problem, I have a magic wand that can turn complex splines into lines. Make it simple. Now I done this and tried multiple settings. There was not a good setting between quality (lots and lots of lines) and simple (a complex curve is broken up into a few straight lines). So yeah I had to redesign it.

(missing out a section where I tried to get the simple program to use more resource and trying multiple different programs to get it to work, this sort of worked but created more problems than it solved)

Making it simpler made the bases I had before not match. not only that but I planned to split my time and make proper arches while the base was cutting. [so the structure of the arch was correct and would appear to be able to sustain weight. I should have just done it in hindsight it would have been easier to texture and looked better. If you are triggered by the non supportive arch, then remember it’s sci-fi and it’s a space sandstone wall with arches].

I redo the design, making it simpler by changing all of the complex lines into sections of circles e.g. arcs. It looks good I try and cut again. It loads now. but I keep losing alignment when engraving the design. It’s moving around too much. I simplify it further and remove the 4000 small circles from one of the designs, slow down the engrave and make sandpaper feet to stop it moving from the quick small details.

It worked!

I used some of the now scrap MDF I created above to make a thicker base. This will stop any warping. Rather than just having a thin piece of MDF. I used some of the now scrap MDF I created above to make a thicker base. This will stop any warping. Rather than just having a thin piece of MDF.
I glued the base sections together. This actually has the weird effect of making this seem like quality, will do this in future. I used Sand sealer as before and then sanded this quickly with 600 then 2000 grit sandpaper. Felt real nice. I glued the base sections together. This actually has the weird effect of making this seem like quality, will do this in future. I used Sand sealer as before and then sanded this quickly with 600 then 2000 grit sandpaper. Felt real nice.
I primed this in black with an airbrush. It was at this point it hit me. This will take forever to paint! I only have myself to blame. I primed this in black with an airbrush. It was at this point it hit me. This will take forever to paint! I only have myself to blame.
I masked out the logo area using model masking tape. Paint was fresh and I don't want it tearing when taking the tape off. this green tape was excellently flexible making it easier to do the curve. I then used kitchen towel to avoid overspray.I masked out the logo area using model masking tape. Paint was fresh and I don't want it tearing when taking the tape off. this green tape was excellently flexible making it easier to do the curve. I then used kitchen towel to avoid overspray.
I sprayed this in off white. Problem was I was having some issues with my airbrush (more at the end) and then thinned my paint to much to compensate. Gave me a great white finish, but it got in all the cracks as it was too thin. Had to use pin washing, painted the letters in black and touched up. I then ended up going over the white with a few layers of grey and off white to make it less flat.I sprayed this in off white. Problem was I was having some issues with my airbrush (more at the end) and then thinned my paint to much to compensate. Gave me a great white finish, but it got in all the cracks as it was too thin. Had to use pin washing, painted the letters in black and touched up. I then ended up going over the white with a few layers of grey and off white to make it less flat.
Masked everything but the top section. which was going to be off white and back checker board. Again sprayed white a bit ticker this time and then went over in black. Masked everything but the top section. which was going to be off white and back checker board. Again sprayed white a bit ticker this time and then went over in black.
I then masked over the back and off white areas (the inverse of what I had done before) I made sure to use model tape for all of this, as the paint was fresh. I then masked over the back and off white areas (the inverse of what I had done before) I made sure to use model tape for all of this, as the paint was fresh.
I spayed the dark terracotta in a smooth coat. again the correct thickness not to remove all the black from between the cracks. I spayed the dark terracotta in a smooth coat. again the correct thickness not to remove all the black from between the cracks.
This was the first of the more repetitive tasks. I went on each tile and put in the black burnt spot I seen on Time Team. Using the airbrush and black wash. I needed to make this uneven. Problem with being random is as soon as you are confident at being random you become uniform. There is a section where this was like an airbrush control test. This was the first of the more repetitive tasks. I went on each tile and put in the black burnt spot I seen on Time Team. Using the airbrush and black wash. I needed to make this uneven. Problem with being random is as soon as you are confident at being random you become uniform. There is a section where this was like an airbrush control test.
I added the dark green and black tiles on. This was rather quick and satisfying. Thin paint, two coats brushed. I added the dark green and black tiles on. This was rather quick and satisfying. Thin paint, two coats brushed.
I added the deck tan green grey detail on the squares. This was annoying painting this over black. Two coats minimum some uneven coats required three.. I added the deck tan green grey detail on the squares. This was annoying painting this over black. Two coats minimum some uneven coats required three..

The Floor. Part two and walls.

Tutoring 12
Skill 12
Idea 12
No Comments
I then quickly and simply painted all the detail by hand with deck tan. Almost always two coats.I then quickly and simply painted all the detail by hand with deck tan. Almost always two coats.

The above was sarcasm. To paint a very high contrast design green grey over dark red… Would only give this 1 out of 5 stars on trip advisor. In total it took me a day. So my working day (on this project) is 10am – 2am with breaks. This can do one. But it looks like I imagined when it was done. Scary thing is the bases are almost this board over again but at least it will be broken up between each model I paint but will have more steps and detail. Something to look forward too.

I also mentioned I had problems with my airbrush. Yeah I got a infinity H&S about 2 years ago now. It was the two in one so I split the parts between my old evolution and kept the 0.15 needle for the infinity. Problem is that it seems when I done that I got the front sections mixed up. So for the past two years they have been working with the wrong sized hole on the front. Good to know I have done what I have done on the airbrush with a handy cap… Both however work so much better. I have no idea why it’s taken all that time.

 

Moving on from the base. Gladly. I was looking forward to the walls. However if you read the previous test on the walls and sandstone I think I have this cracked. 6p’s.

I built everything. it went mostly smoothly. Assembling was a little tough the floating arches in the midground are 6 pieces of MDF. I worked from the inside out and used PVA in the centre and when aligned used thing superglue and used capillary action to take the superglue into the edges and then used activator spray worked white well only 0.25mm misalignments which is to be expected.

The rear wall was simple enough sanding the middle piece and assembling. I then sand sealed it, but didn’t sand it as I wanted this rougher to take the texture paint.

No major problems so far. I also know I made this overhang the base due to the simplifications I had done before but I didn’t want to change the wall. No problem. It’s a set piece not a diorama.

I did have a thought I hadn't put a tag near it. I dry fitted it and it worked. I like the depth all great. I did have a thought I hadn't put a tag near it. I dry fitted it and it worked. I like the depth all great.

Then came the next 1.75 days. It’s like a holiday (which I am on from work) you forget to take pictures and it doesn’t matter as it was so dull. I watched (listened to) the entire series of meet the painter with Vince Venturella. Great series. Worth a watch.

Painted one face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick. Painted the next face of a brick…. read that another 1000 times and you will just start to begin to understand the horror show that was this decision.

I was blinded by the sandstones beauty. It lulled me into a false sense of security, then abused me. I am a victim of sandstone.

Walls are now initially textured as before in the sample, when I could have seen this coming. Walls are now initially textured as before in the sample, when I could have seen this coming.
Rear of the midground arches where I cheated and stippled on the texture paste in two coats and scored with the back side of my scalpel. This will not look as good but you can't see it from the front and will only be used in a long corridor shot and I will probably angle it to the wall anyway.  Rear of the midground arches where I cheated and stippled on the texture paste in two coats and scored with the back side of my scalpel. This will not look as good but you can't see it from the front and will only be used in a long corridor shot and I will probably angle it to the wall anyway.

That’s the project up to date so far. Next is to finish the walls tomorrow. and move onto painting models which is so much more fun.

You may be thinking? You should have stopped, redesigned this to be a simpler. Changed techniques, taken elements out. Compromised your concept for the sake of your sanity.

The main compromise was the arches and they are now my only regret. I will die on this hill! If I truly accept that, I might just live through it…

In all seriousness. This is not my first rodeo. I am experienced and qualified modelmaker and this is not even close to my worst project ever (story for another time). Though in the past I could normally blame someone else. I find it better to get close to the vision and see if it works out. if it doesn’t it’s only paint, wood and time. Still get the experience, the story and have the ability to change it.

More to come.

Milestone reached.

Tutoring 13
Skill 13
Idea 14
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I wanted to be at this point a couple of days ago, but things have not went as smoothly as I had hoped.  Things are looking up and changes have been made. A couple of things done behind the scenes namely one that I wont show which was to recut all my bases. no point in showing that again.

Time to move on and paint some sandstone!

I started by priming in black two coats, letting that dry and sanding off the stone texture I spend 2 days applying. If you have never sanded acrylic, it can sand but wants to tare instead. Those tares want to roll up and crate horrible rolls of paint. If this happens press more lightly are take your time and they reduce and stop. I was careful not to remove all the texture.I started by priming in black two coats, letting that dry and sanding off the stone texture I spend 2 days applying. If you have never sanded acrylic, it can sand but wants to tare instead. Those tares want to roll up and crate horrible rolls of paint. If this happens press more lightly are take your time and they reduce and stop. I was careful not to remove all the texture.
This is the texture I was missing before. Flat with broken texture. around and in each brick at random.This is the texture I was missing before. Flat with broken texture. around and in each brick at random.
I used needle files, sanding blocks and nail files to get inside the windows but I couldn't use these on the steps inside the arches. I had to make my down smaller sanding pegs out of scrap and cut up nail files. Not the best sanding position but it worked. the key to sanding like this is you do not want curves where there shouldn't be any. I have sanded for many days in my lifetime. I cant trust myself to use loose sandpaper and not round an edge of a project. I used needle files, sanding blocks and nail files to get inside the windows but I couldn't use these on the steps inside the arches. I had to make my down smaller sanding pegs out of scrap and cut up nail files. Not the best sanding position but it worked. the key to sanding like this is you do not want curves where there shouldn't be any. I have sanded for many days in my lifetime. I cant trust myself to use loose sandpaper and not round an edge of a project.
I then gave this another prime of black and a slight zenith with bone then my first main coat of paint which is a tan colour. this was the last airbrush step.I then gave this another prime of black and a slight zenith with bone then my first main coat of paint which is a tan colour. this was the last airbrush step.
Bit of a Gerry shot here but you can get the gist. This was an over brush with a golden brown colour. key for me here is to keep the paint thick but spread it out a lot. This is a step that makes it seem like you have made incorrect choices in life. It actually looks crap.  Don't forget to go in the direction of light, in this case top to bottom and not attack it from all anglesBit of a Gerry shot here but you can get the gist. This was an over brush with a golden brown colour. key for me here is to keep the paint thick but spread it out a lot. This is a step that makes it seem like you have made incorrect choices in life. It actually looks crap. Don't forget to go in the direction of light, in this case top to bottom and not attack it from all angles
The next step makes you feel crazy again, you got to have faith, like George Michael said. You get pale flesh colour and go over it. This is more like a heavy drybrush layer but applying it in a couple of coats. rather than one thick one. again from top to bottom.  The next step makes you feel crazy again, you got to have faith, like George Michael said. You get pale flesh colour and go over it. This is more like a heavy drybrush layer but applying it in a couple of coats. rather than one thick one. again from top to bottom.
After the main paint I thin down some terracotta, orange and black to a glaze consistency and pick out some bricks at random. After this step I did give a quick drybrush of ivory as the orange came out very strong. The aim here was to give some variation on the bricks but not change the overall tone.After the main paint I thin down some terracotta, orange and black to a glaze consistency and pick out some bricks at random. After this step I did give a quick drybrush of ivory as the orange came out very strong. The aim here was to give some variation on the bricks but not change the overall tone.
I then went and got my pastels and pigment powders out. I am not classing this as weathering as I am varnishing after this is again to give variation in tone and colour and to unify the wall again. I used a fan brush to grab pigments and lightly coat a random camo pattern on it. I then used a harder brush to rub in the pigment. I used some north africka dust pigment that was perhaps a little thin and strong. I also used a yellow ochre and black chalk pastel, shaving the powder off it. After everything was rubbed in and my desk a mess I went ahead and sealed it. Giving it it's finished un-weathered look. I will go in later after I have models and do a light weathering pass to bring to base and wall together and correct anything that looks horrible on camera under proper lighting. I then went and got my pastels and pigment powders out. I am not classing this as weathering as I am varnishing after this is again to give variation in tone and colour and to unify the wall again. I used a fan brush to grab pigments and lightly coat a random camo pattern on it. I then used a harder brush to rub in the pigment. I used some north africka dust pigment that was perhaps a little thin and strong. I also used a yellow ochre and black chalk pastel, shaving the powder off it. After everything was rubbed in and my desk a mess I went ahead and sealed it. Giving it it's finished un-weathered look. I will go in later after I have models and do a light weathering pass to bring to base and wall together and correct anything that looks horrible on camera under proper lighting.
I also drew and cut out the window frames as I done on the sample and used the transparent glass paints on them. I have only attached these using tape for the moment. Mixing these requires much more experience than I have and while it wasn't a disaster it's far from perfect. I also sort of like that though. Fits the old style theme.I also drew and cut out the window frames as I done on the sample and used the transparent glass paints on them. I have only attached these using tape for the moment. Mixing these requires much more experience than I have and while it wasn't a disaster it's far from perfect. I also sort of like that though. Fits the old style theme.
One of the nights during this weeks episode I caved. You may have seen a spoiler in the photo's leading up to this. I have all my stuff out to strip models. I just can't strip wee Joany. It's bad enough she was burned at the stake for being a witch. Plunging her future Maid of Orleans self into a vat of Dettol seems harsh. This is also a milestone model for me. I started to paint individual models and not armies (lol, says the guy with how many infinity factions now?). This made painting so much more enjoyable and I am still riding that wave. it also helped me look deeper into painting even if this didn't look like Angel himself painted it. In short I am keeping this milestone. I tried to find the same model again to paint, It couldn't be bought now so I bought the non limited sculpt so should still be comparable. Sadly I didn't notice the cut up umbra on the base so I guess I will need to paint two, I opted for the longer haried version so the pointy arm had two points of contact and is less likely to break. I also liked how the sculpt on the face is slightly different. Almost looking older. Still feels like a cop out.One of the nights during this weeks episode I caved. You may have seen a spoiler in the photo's leading up to this. I have all my stuff out to strip models. I just can't strip wee Joany. It's bad enough she was burned at the stake for being a witch. Plunging her future Maid of Orleans self into a vat of Dettol seems harsh. This is also a milestone model for me. I started to paint individual models and not armies (lol, says the guy with how many infinity factions now?). This made painting so much more enjoyable and I am still riding that wave. it also helped me look deeper into painting even if this didn't look like Angel himself painted it. In short I am keeping this milestone. I tried to find the same model again to paint, It couldn't be bought now so I bought the non limited sculpt so should still be comparable. Sadly I didn't notice the cut up umbra on the base so I guess I will need to paint two, I opted for the longer haried version so the pointy arm had two points of contact and is less likely to break. I also liked how the sculpt on the face is slightly different. Almost looking older. Still feels like a cop out.

So that’s it for this update. I took a half day yesterday and the same today. I will start painting Joany and finishing rebasing tomorrow. then start to look at adding details to the older models. Again the faster I can get this done the more time I get with defiance and my other infinity projects before the rest of the military orders arrive at the end of this month but I may also just take my time and see how well I can document and paint what I have already. Who knows!

Joan of Ark 2.0 - Part One.

Tutoring 12
Skill 12
Idea 12
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I got started on painting Joan, This will be a sort of tutorial I purposefully didn’t refer to Angels book through my current painting style of Pano is very much in his style and he deserves a lot of credit. If you want to know how the master does it, get either of his books. Both are great and will go over fundamentals and covers just about everything you could wish to paint in his style.

Some of what he done in his book didn’t work for me. This would have been down to my experience and the fact that painting models is not paint by numbers. If you wish to be incredibly generous to my previous attempt the main difference would be the water we used. Possibly Spanish water has magic in it… I think this is down to inconsistencies in paint and measuring probably in my part but there are thousands of variables and you can see that from looking at the original model which has been painted by thousands of people and none look the same.

This is still my origin and my roots, I cant imagine painting infinity models in another way as his art style is interlaced with infinity in my mind. At this point as I write I still have not compared my process to his though I would almost be certain that there is cross over.

I am trying to crate another milestone moment in my painting. I will take longer than normal to paint this and will be trying to pay more attention rather than everything is painted by the rule of cool which is what I normally do.

I am nervous and excited. Cant wait to see what happens!

I am trying to make the pictures equal in terms of light and clarity. I have two small daylight led lights with white diffusers on them I have my camera setup with the same settings on a tripod though I am using manual focus to ensure it's done right. I didn't go the extra step of blacking out all other light sources or using a posh background as this would detract from what I am doing. The “stand” for the backdrop was made of two thin scrap bits of MDF and was superglued together.I am trying to make the pictures equal in terms of light and clarity. I have two small daylight led lights with white diffusers on them I have my camera setup with the same settings on a tripod though I am using manual focus to ensure it's done right. I didn't go the extra step of blacking out all other light sources or using a posh background as this would detract from what I am doing. The “stand” for the backdrop was made of two thin scrap bits of MDF and was superglued together.
I started this by pepping the model. Cutting from the metal sprue using clippers. I used needle files and wire-wool on the gates. There was little flash or mould lines I could see though feel free to point out any you can. I then used superglue and model putty to join and fill. I then used black primer through my airbrush and then a zenith of grey from a 45 degree angle all the way around. This turned out a little rough but gave me what I need. Visibility of the volumes. I am going to be painting this imagining 4 points of light 45 degrees off the cardinal points. I could have put these in using the zenith but I wanted to see everything first. I started this by pepping the model. Cutting from the metal sprue using clippers. I used needle files and wire-wool on the gates. There was little flash or mould lines I could see though feel free to point out any you can. I then used superglue and model putty to join and fill. I then used black primer through my airbrush and then a zenith of grey from a 45 degree angle all the way around. This turned out a little rough but gave me what I need. Visibility of the volumes. I am going to be painting this imagining 4 points of light 45 degrees off the cardinal points. I could have put these in using the zenith but I wanted to see everything first.
I then done a thin base coat of dark Prussian blue with the airbrush. Going over areas until this was quite saturated.  You can still see the zenith underneath. If I was using a finer needled airbrush I may have been able to avoid coating the face and hair. Alas it was not to be. I was more concentrating on getting an even coat. I normally get overspray anyway.I then done a thin base coat of dark Prussian blue with the airbrush. Going over areas until this was quite saturated. You can still see the zenith underneath. If I was using a finer needled airbrush I may have been able to avoid coating the face and hair. Alas it was not to be. I was more concentrating on getting an even coat. I normally get overspray anyway.
I then use what I call Pano Blue through the airbrush I changed to a 0.15mm needle. This is a mix of dark Prussian blue and blue green as far as I can remember. I made a bottle of it years ago. Believe it or not but I think it was the same mix I painted the other model with... This acts as the first highlight. But really this is the main colour. I focus on my 4 points but picking out area's of interest the light would hit.I then use what I call Pano Blue through the airbrush I changed to a 0.15mm needle. This is a mix of dark Prussian blue and blue green as far as I can remember. I made a bottle of it years ago. Believe it or not but I think it was the same mix I painted the other model with... This acts as the first highlight. But really this is the main colour. I focus on my 4 points but picking out area's of interest the light would hit.
I then added some white and done a first highlight of the Pano blue. Again focusing on area's of interest that the light would catch.I then added some white and done a first highlight of the Pano blue. Again focusing on area's of interest that the light would catch.
I add more white and do a final highlight through the airbrush making it smaller each time. These are not the lightest points on the model. I don't think I have enough airbrush control to do this reliably. There is another another 3 stages of highlighting above this. This is the last airbrush step. I have painted other models. Generally without an main colour all my hand before. It's the same main steps but takes more time in blending. I am also considering trying oils at some point and this is the main step I would do with them.I add more white and do a final highlight through the airbrush making it smaller each time. These are not the lightest points on the model. I don't think I have enough airbrush control to do this reliably. There is another another 3 stages of highlighting above this. This is the last airbrush step. I have painted other models. Generally without an main colour all my hand before. It's the same main steps but takes more time in blending. I am also considering trying oils at some point and this is the main step I would do with them.
I get out my size 1 brush with a fat belly which I will use for most of the model. Then wash the model but almost like a pin wash with dark blue and back. This makes the fine details pop and allowed me to see the detail in the model. I get out my size 1 brush with a fat belly which I will use for most of the model. Then wash the model but almost like a pin wash with dark blue and back. This makes the fine details pop and allowed me to see the detail in the model.
I go ahead and what I call black inline. I need this for my head. I paint all components that are not blue with black. Again this helps my head more than anything and provides a base I know how to deal with. It also helps with something I see a lot of especially on infinity models and is not having clear boundary between components. But this can be a stylistic choice as well.I go ahead and what I call black inline. I need this for my head. I paint all components that are not blue with black. Again this helps my head more than anything and provides a base I know how to deal with. It also helps with something I see a lot of especially on infinity models and is not having clear boundary between components. But this can be a stylistic choice as well.