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Very Slow League of Infamy Project

Very Slow League of Infamy Project

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Project Blog by orinoco Cult of Games Member

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About the Project

I will be slowly working my way through painting the League of Infamy Kickstarter. As well as using the League of Infamy miniatures to play League of Infamy I intend to rebase the minis to Vanguard and Kings of War size (where required) before painting. This will also give me some more miniatures to add to Frostgrave.

This Project is Active

That's all for now

Tutoring 6
Skill 6
Idea 6
1 Comment
That's all for now

The project will be paused for a while with the core game complete but the expansions still to do.

I’ve updated a few of the entries with You Tube links for techniques I tried to use or were inspired by:

Week 7 Part 3 – Hobby Cheating 41 – How to Paint Bone Horns https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URl-H-0C14Q

Week 15 and 16 Drakons done? Part 1 – HOW TO PAINT TMM SILVER https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_McGLgzoeY  and HOW TO PAINT TMM COPPER https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRK2uMZbz3Y

Week 17 Lynxes – Hobby Cheating 251 – How to Paint Fur Texture https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jzk5DHKBEtY

Week 18 Dryads – Hobby Cheating 47 – How to Paint Rich Sylvaneth Wood Tones https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLHsE7SgZyc  and How to Paint Glowing Eyes – Painting With the Pro https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOCaK3H-EmM

 

I’d also like to acknowledge the influence of the projects of @hazyboy75  who does excellent work and dry brushes everything beige.

That's all for now

M'win'daji

Tutoring 5
Skill 5
Idea 5
No Comments
M'win'daji

After a Paynes Grey Wash and a dry brush of Pale Sand over the zenithaled IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer the following were used:

  • Plasma Red Ink (Old Citadel Ink) on the wings and flesh
  • Black Green Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) on the duster and under coat
  • Green Grey (Vallejo Model Color) on the trousers and hair
  • Chocolat Brown (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with Vallejo Glaze Medium on the boots, gloves, hat, belt and straps

Everything dry brushed Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color).

Bone at the top of the wing was done the same way as the Drakon Hunter.

Everything was given a gloss varnish, basing applied and sealed, then a matt varnish before the metallics were applied in the same fashion as the Drakon Hunter.

Sharpclaw Gutpeeler

Tutoring 4
Skill 4
Idea 4
No Comments
Sharpclaw Gutpeeler

After a Paynes Grey Wash and a dry brush of Pale Sand over the zenithaled IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer the following were used:

  • Plasma Red Ink (Old Citadel Ink) for the eyes and cloth
  • Vortex Blue Ink (Old Citadel Ink) for cloth
  • Shadow Black Ink (Old Citadel Ink) for fur/hair and nose
  • Chocolat Brown (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with Vallejo Glaze Medium and thinly applied /stretched out to shorts, belt and  hand strapping
  • Chocolate Brown on the hair ties
  • Green Grey (Vallejo Model Color) on the axe handles followed by Army Painter Strong Tone

Dry brush of Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color)

Skin:

  • Base coat of Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo Game Color) in the shadows
  • Mix of Dark Fleshtone and Barbarian Flesh (Army Painter) as a layer
  • Barbarian Flesh 2nd layer
  • Mix of Barbarian Flesh and Light Flesh (Vallejo Model Color) for the highlights
  • Dark Fleshtone for the scars/tattoos
  • Glaze of Barbarian Flesh

Teeth and claws were done using the same technique as the Drakon Hunter.

Everything was given a gloss varnish, basing applied and sealed, then a matt varnish before the metallics were applied in the same fashion as the Drakon Hunter.

Melantha Arveld

Tutoring 4
Skill 4
Idea 4
No Comments
Melantha Arveld

After a Paynes Grey Wash and a dry brush of Pale Sand over the zenithaled IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer the following were used:

  • Hybrid Purple Ink (Old Citadel Ink) on the cloth
  • Plasma Red Ink (Old Citadel Ink) on the cloak

Drybrush Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color)

Hair and Fur:

  • Green Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Highlight Ivory (Vallejo Model Color)

Skin:

  • Base coat Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Air) mixed with Light Flesh (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Highlight with Light Flesh
  • Glaze/Wash of Hybrid Purple Ink mixed with dilute flow improver

Everything was given a gloss varnish, basing applied and sealed, then a matt varnish before the metallics were applied in the same fashion as the Drakon Hunter.

Karzel Runesbane

Tutoring 5
Skill 5
Idea 5
No Comments
Karzel Runesbane

After a Paynes Grey Wash and a dry brush of Pale Sand over the zenithaled IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer the following were used:

  • Sepia Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) on the beard
  • Plasma Red Ink (Old Citadel Ink) on the cape
  • Chocolat Brown (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with Vallejo Glaze Medium on the trousers, boots, straps, backpack, gloves and belt
  • Green Grey (Vallejo Model Color) on the bedroll followed by Army Painter Soft tone in the recesses of the bedroll

Drybrush of Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color)

Skin:

  • Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Air) base coat
  • Tan Earth mixed with Barbarian Flesh (Army Painter) layer
  • Barbarian Flesh highlight

Everything was given a gloss varnish, basing applied and sealed, then a matt varnish before the metallics were applied in the same fashion as the Drakon Hunter.

Note that the bronze/gold of the helmet were given extra layers of Army Painter Strong Tone.

Glum Slittercreep (Batman inspired?)

Tutoring 5
Skill 5
Idea 5
1 Comment
Glum Slittercreep (Batman inspired?)

After a Paynes Grey Wash and a dry brush of Pale Sand over the zenithaled IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer the following were used:

  • Chocolat Brown (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with Vallejo Glaze Medium on the leather, tunic and dagger handle straps
  • Green Grey (Vallejo Model Color) on the trousers and cloth top
  • Vortex Blue Ink (Old Citadel Ink) on the mask
  • Hybrid Purple Ink (Old Citadel Ink) on the cape

All dry brushed Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color)

Skin:

  • German CAM Dark Green (Vallejo Model Color) base coat
  • German CAM Dark Green mixed with Goblin Green (Vallejo Game Color) layer
  • Goblin Green highlights
  • Bone White highlights
  • Glaze of German CAM Dark Green/Goblin Green mix

Everything was given a gloss varnish, basing applied and sealed, then a matt varnish before the metallics were applied in the same fashion as the Drakon Hunter.

La'theal Bleakheart

Tutoring 4
Skill 5
Idea 5
No Comments
La'theal Bleakheart

After a Paynes Grey Wash and a dry brush of Pale Sand over the zenithaled IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer the following were used:

  • Hybrid Purple Ink (Old Citadel Ink) on the boots, dress, bracers, shoulder guard, elbow guard, collar and nails
  • Plasma Red Ink (Old Citadel Ink) on the bit hanging down from the dress
  • Shadow Black Ink (Old Citadel Ink) on the hair

This was followed by a dry brush of Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color) and more Shadow Black ink on the hair.

Skin:

  • Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Air) base coat
  • Barbarian Flesh (Army Painter) mixed with Light Flesh (Vallejo Model Color) layer
  • Light Flesh highlight

Held Eye:

  • Black slit pupil with a dot of Ivory (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Stippled Demonic Yellow (Army Painter), Hot Orange (Vallejo Game Color) and Black

Everything was given a gloss varnish, basing applied and sealed, then a matt varnish before the metallics were applied in the same fashion as the Drakon Hunter.

Master Hunter

Tutoring 5
Skill 5
Idea 5
No Comments
Master Hunter

Mainly the same technique as the Drakon Hunter with the following exceptions:

  • The Plasma Red cape was only drybrushed  before the Plasma Red Ink not after.
  • The hair was done with Lava Orange Ink (Old Citadel Ink).
  • The trousers/leggings are Green Grey with a Green Grey/Pale Sand highlight.
  • The bow and the gap between the 2 arrows was washed with Strong Tone before drybrushing with Pale Sand.

Drakon Hunter

Tutoring 4
Skill 4
Idea 4
No Comments
Drakon Hunter

After a Paynes Grey Wash and a dry brush of Pale Sand over the zenithaled IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer the following were used:

  • Black Green Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) on the tunic, scales and wing bones.
  • Firestorm Yellow Ink (Old Citadel Ink) on the wing (would have been better with a purple wash underneath rather the Paynes Grey on this part).
  • Plasma Red Ink (Old Citadel Ink) on the hat tassels, neckerchief and front cloth thing.
  • Sepia Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) on the fur.
  • Chocolate Brown (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with Vallejo Glaze Medium for the leather, rope, trousers, boots, sword and dagger handles.

Everything was given another drybrush of Pale Sand

  • Green Grey (Vallejo Model Color) with Pale Sand highlights for the weapon shaft.

Flesh:

  • Base of Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo Game Color) mixed with Elf Skintone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • Elf Skintone highlight
  • Elf Skintone mixed with Ivory (Vallejo Model Color) higher highlight
  • Ivory final highlight

Bone:

  • Bone White (Vallejo Game Color)
  • Army Painter Soft Tone apart from the tips
  • Army Painter Strong Tone shadows and base of the horns
  • Repeat Soft and Strong Tone Steps
  • Glazes of Bone White from the tips and highlights
  • Ivory on very tops of  highlight
  • Glaze of Orange Rust (Vallejo Model Air)

Everything was given a gloss varnish, basing applied and sealed, then a matt varnish for everything before the metallics were applied:

  • Black base coat for anything steel
  • Brown base coat for anything solidly gold/bronze
  • (not the filigree)
  • Gunmetal Grey (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with a touch of Panzer Dark Grey (Vallejo Model Air) for steel parts
  • Bright Bronze (Vallejo Game Color) mixed with a touch of Red Leather (Vallejo Model Color) on the filigree and weapon
  • Gold (Warpaints Army Painter) mixed with a touch of Red Leather (Vallejo Model Color) highlighting the filigree and weapon
  • Silver (Vallejo Game Color) mixed with a touch of White highlighting the Gunmetal Grey armour
  • Wash of Strong Tone (Army Painter)
  • Repeat Gold and Silver highlights adding a touch of the Silver/White mix to the gold/bronze in places

 

Sabre-Toothed Lyrynx (Pale Sand spots and invisible sabre teeth)

Tutoring 5
Skill 5
Idea 5
No Comments
Sabre-Toothed Lyrynx (Pale Sand spots and invisible sabre teeth)

After a Paynes Grey Wash and a dry brush of Pale Sand the following were used:

Fur

  • Filthy Brown (Vallejo Game Color) mixed with Vallejo Glaze Medium
  • Filthy Brown base layer highlight
  • Filthy Brown mixed with Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color) 2nd layer highlight
  • Pale Sand with a small amount of flow improver for the final highllight
  • Tail tip, chin  and inner ear Ivory (Vallejo Model Color) highlights

Nose and Tongue

  • Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Air)
  • Pale Sand highlight

Teeth

  • Ivory then an Orange Rust (Vallejo Model Air) glaze

Leather Straps

  • Chocolate Brown (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Drybrush Pale Sand

Everything was given a gloss varnish, basing applied and sealed, then a matt varnish for everything before the metallics were applied.

Metallics:

  • Black
  • Gunmetal Grey (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with a touch of Panzer Dark Grey (Vallejo Model Air)
  • Bright Bronze (Vallejo Game Color) mixed with a touch of Red Leather (Vallejo Model Color) on the filigree and head piece centre
  • Gold (Warpaints Army Painter) mixed with a touch of Red Leather (Vallejo Model Color) highlighting the filigree and head piece centre
  • Silver (Vallejo Game Color) mixed with a touch of White highlighting the Gunmetal Grey armour
  • Wash of Strong Tone (Army Painter)
  • Repeat Gold and Silver highlights adding a touch of the Silver/White mix to the filigree and head piece centre in places

Weeks 27 to 30 Core Box Finished

Tutoring 2
Skill 3
Idea 2
1 Comment
Weeks 27 to 30 Core Box Finished

The last 9 figures from the core box are finished (Could do more, but they’ve got paint on them and are varnished ready to play).

Weeks 27 to 30 Core Box Finished

Over the next few days I’ll post the individual pictures from the finished 9 with the usual list of paints.  There are still the expansions to do, but I will come back to them once I’ve done some other projects.  I’ll also add a Forest Shambler and an Elf Mage into the project before starting the expansions to give me an Elf Vanguard force.

Weeks 27 to 30 Core Box Finished

Tried to use some of my old Citadel Inks on these, partially to use what I’ve got.  The orange ink does smell funny though.

Week 26 WIP Remaining Core Box

Tutoring 5
Skill 6
Idea 5
No Comments
Week 26 WIP Remaining Core Box

The remaining figures from the core box have been given a Paynes Grey Wash and drybrush with Pale Sand, avoiding the larger areas of armour.  Started work on the big cat, but I don’t think I’ll do spotting on it.

Weeks 24-25 Drakon Handlers

Tutoring 8
Skill 8
Idea 7
1 Comment
Weeks 24-25 Drakon Handlers

The Drakon Handlers had been primed in week 7 with IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer then Titanium White Liquitex Acrylic Ink was sprayed from above.

The skin followed the same method as the Elf Spearmen (weeks 21-23).

The weapon shaft and the hair used the same techniques as the arrows/bows and hair from the Elf Archers (weeks 19-20).

Horns were done using the same method as the Drakons.

Weeks 24-25 Drakon Handlers

Everything that was to be green, brown or fur was given a 1:3 Paynes Grey wash (1 drop of Daler Rowney FW Paynes Grey Ink to 3 drops of Wash Medium.  COGs https://www.beastsofwar.com/featured/gerry-can-how-to-make-diy-professional-washes/ ).  Followed by a drybrush of Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color).

Black Green Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) was applied as a top layer for the tunic and the side pieces of the head piece.

Sepia Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) was applied to the fur followed be a selective drybrush of Pale Sand.

Chocolate Brown (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with Vallejo Glaze Medium was applied to the straps, belts, back of the boots  and trousers.  The trousers had the lightest of the glazes by spreading the glaze thinly. The Brown areas were then drybrushed with Pale Sand.

Weeks 24-25 Drakon Handlers

Any parts that were to be silver were blocked out in black, while the more copper parts were blocked out with Chocolate Brown.

Everything was gloss then matt varnished before the metallics were applied. Basing material was added and sealed between the gloss and matt varnish steps.

The silver parts were:

  • A base coat of Gunmetal Grey (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with a touch of Panzer Dark Grey (Vallejo Game Air)
  • Washed with Black Shade (FOW Vallejo)
  • Given a broad Silver (Vallejo Game Color) mixed with a touch of White highlight
  • Gold (Warpaints Army Painter) with a touch of Red Leather (Vallejo Model Color) was applied to raised parts of the armour.

The sort of copper parts were:

  • Base coated Hammered Copper (Vallejo Game Color) with a touch of Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • Bright Bronze (Vallejo Game Color) was added to the base coat mix to use as a highlight.
  • Gold (Warpaints Army Painter) was added to the Bronze mix for a further highlight
  • A heavy wash of Black Shade was applied
  • Gold mixed with a small amount of Red Leather was used as a thick edge highlight
Weeks 24-25 Drakon Handlers

I’m fairly happy with how these turned out and will use similar techniques when I get around to the Northern Alliance miniatures I have for Vanguard, but will replace the green ink with blue ink as they have a blue theme.

Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

Tutoring 9
Skill 9
Idea 8
No Comments
Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

The spearmen were painted in much the same ways as the archers from the previous entry, with a few tweaks.

Similar to the archers all the non-metallics were done first (except the shield emblem) then varnished with gloss then matt varnish.

Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

Even though I had already primed the spears, I was unhappy with them and swapped them out with plastic Fire Forge games ones that I had for a Dwarf conversion project (a further insult to the Dwarves).

Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

The reds were painted in the same way as the archer’s cloaks.  The spear staffs were painted the same as the bows and for the browns I missed out the archers brown glaze step.

Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

There was a slight change with the way I did the faces compared to the archers.  Mainly I went dark to light rather than mid, shadow then  highlight and changed out the Dark Green Ink for German Cam. Dark Green.  I did the eyes first before the skin.

So either:

  • German Cam. Dark Green (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with Dark Flesh Tone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • 1st highlight: Dark Flesh Tone
  • 2nd highlight: Dark Flesh Tone mixed with Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Air)

or:

  • Dark Flesh Tone mixed with Elf Skin Tone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • 1st highlight: Elf Skin Tone
  • 2nd highlight: Elf Skin Tone mixed with Ivory (Vallejo Model Color)
  • 3rd highlight: Ivory

 

The emblem on the shields was done using Cadmium Yellow oil paint with Gerry’s nail art technique https://www.beastsofwar.com/featured/gerry-can-show-nail-art-cheat-freehanding/

I haven’t quite got the pressure right for the nail art, but it will do.  The emblems are still to dry and after that I’ll varnish them.

Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

The metallics were:

  • Black
  • Gunmetal (Vallejo Model Color) with a spot of Panzer Dark Grey (Vallejo Model Air)
  • Gold (Army Painter Warpaints) with a spot of Red Leather (Vallejo Model Color) on the helmet brow and crest
  • Black wash (Vallejo Flames of War) in the recesses
  • A mix of Sepia and Blue ink (Vallejo Game Ink) in the shadows
  • Silver (Vallejo Game Color) with a spot of White to highlight the armour including the gold

Week 19 and 20: Elf Archers

Tutoring 9
Skill 10
Idea 8
No Comments
Finished ArchersFinished Archers

As usual archers had been primed in week 7 with IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer then Titanium White Liquitex Acrylic Ink was sprayed from above.

Finished ArchersFinished Archers

Cloaks:

  • Base: Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Wash: Violet ink (Vallejo Game Ink) + Wash medium (from previous weeks)
  • Dry brush/Over brush: Tan Earth
  • Dry brush: Barbarian Flesh (Army Painter)
  • Dry brush highlights Ice Yellow (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Dry brush upper most highlights Ivory (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Glaze: Bloody Red (Vallejo Game Color) + Vallejo Glaze Medium
  • Glaze repeated where necessary
Finished ArchersFinished Archers

Leather/Quiver/Brown clothes:

  • Base: Chocolate Brown (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Drybrush: Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Glaze: Chocolate Brown + Vallejo Glaze Medium

Arrows/Bow:

  • Base: Green Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Highlight: Pale Sand
  • Extreme highlights: Ivory
Finished ArchersFinished Archers

Hair:

  • Base: Pale Sand
  • Wash: Army Painter Soft Tone
  • Highlight: Pale Sand
  • Extreme highlight: Ivory

Skin:

Either

  • Base: Dark Flesh Tone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • Shading: Dark Green Ink (Vallejo Game Ink)
  • Highlight: Tan Earth mixed with Dark Flesh Tone

or

  • Base: Elf Skin Tone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • Shadows: Dark Flesh Tone mixed with Elf Skin Tone
  • Highlight 1: Elf Skin Tone mixed with Ivory
  • Highlight 2: Ivory

Eyes are Ivory with Black pupils and were painted before the skin.

Finished ArchersFinished Archers

The figures were varnished in gloss then matt before any metallic paint was used.

The armour and arrowhead were done by trying to roughly follow Angel Giraldez’s true metallic silver tutorial.  Warpaints Gold (Army Painter) mixed with a small spot of Red Leather (Vallejo Model Color) and highlighted with Silver (Vallejo Game Color) mixed with a small spot of white were used on the helmet front piece.

Armour/Arrowhead:

  • Base: Black then Gun Metal (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Wash in the shadows: a mix of Vallejo Black Wash (Flames of War), Sepia Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) and Blue Ink
  • 1st Highlight: Silver mixed with a small spot of white
  • Glaze Blue ink in areas then a mix of Blue and Sepia inks nearer the shadows.
  • Last Highlight: Silver mixed with a small spot of white

 

I had some problems with the 1st highlight being gritty due to the bottle at some point being stored upside down, so there was pigment stuck in the nozzle.  Once I took the nozzle off and cleared it the paint was a lot better.

 

Week 18 Dryads

Tutoring 9
Skill 10
Idea 8
1 Comment
Finished DryadsFinished Dryads

Tried to use the technique from Vince Venturella’s ‘Hobby Cheating 47 How to Paint Rich Sylvaneth Wood Tones’, but tried to get a slightly greyer tone rather than a rich one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLHsE7SgZyc

The Dryads had been primed in week 7 with IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer then Titanium White Liquitex Acrylic Ink was sprayed from above.

Finished DryadsFinished Dryads

I applied a Paynes Grey Wash to the whole figure (1 part Daler Rowney Paynes Grey Ink to 3 parts wash medium – see week 14), then dry brushed Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color).

The highlights were tidied up using Pale Sand.  Undiluted Sepia Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) was applied to all the wood and Black Green Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) to the foliage.

Finished DryadsFinished Dryads

The wood was then dry brushed with Green Grey (Vallejo Model Color) and  washed with a Sepia wash (1 part Vallejo Sepia ink to 4 parts wash medium).

After the wash had dried the wood got another drybrush of Green Grey mainly on the highlight areas.  The foliage was tidied up with more Black Green ink and a second coat added to the shadow areas.

Although not that noticeable a green glaze (Black Green ink plus Vallejo Glaze Medium) was applied to random areas of the wood and the same was done with an orange glaze (Rust Orange Vallejo Model Air plus Vallejo Glaze Medium).

Basing was applied and the minis were gloss then matt varnished.

Finished DryadsFinished Dryads

For the eyes I looked at Sam Lenz’s technique from ‘How to Paint Glowing Eyes – Painting with the Pro’ (Tabletop Minions).  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOCaK3H-EmM

I went for a green to try and tie the Dryads into the Green Lady fluff from Mantic.  A purple, blue or magenta would have been more poppy.

  • White in the sockets
  • A mix of Green Fluo (Vallejo Model Color) and white in the sockets
  • Edge highlight the areas around the eye with the previous mix
  • Diluted Waaargh! Green Ink (Citadel Ink) in the eyes and around them, wiping excess ink from the eyes
  • Repeat the edge highlight with the Green Fluo and white mix
  • Dot of white in the eye
  • Thinned Green Fluo (no white) in the eye and over the edge highlights
Green Fluo, Waaargh! Green Ink (out of production) and WhiteGreen Fluo, Waaargh! Green Ink (out of production) and White

If I painted these again I would go for a different ink on the foliage of each Dryad (violet, orange, blue, red, green etc) and paint a smaller area of the eyes with the initial white.

Highlights could be improved.  Some of the paint has a satin sheen before matt varnishing so I should go higher for the highlights before the matt dulls it down.

Overall I’m happy enough with these for a tabletop standard.

Edit to first post due to Halfling Beta list for Kings of War

Tutoring 8
Skill 8
Idea 9
No Comments

I’ve edited my very first post on bases sizes for anyone using League of Infamy figures in Vanguard or Kings of War now that there is a Beta list out for Kings of War.

Edit:

No Half Measures:

  • Halfling Infantry to 20mm bases
  • Iron Beast listed as Titan so current base is correct
  • Sauceror, Greedyguts and Feastmaster stay as 25mm bases

Week 17 Lynxes

Tutoring 9
Skill 11
Idea 8
No Comments
10 Lynxes10 Lynxes

I didn’t quite get the technique right.  There are 3 different shades of striations on the fur even though it only looks like one.  I was trying to roughly follow Vince Venturella’s hobby cheating  251 How to Paint Fur Texture. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jzk5DHKBEtY

Week 17 Lynxes

The Lynxes had been primed in week 7 with IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer then Titanium White Liquitex Acrylic Ink was sprayed from above.

The eyes were painted first so that any mistakes in that area could be covered later:

  • Base coat Elf Skin Tone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • Yellow Orchre (Vallejo Model Air) over the top of the base coat
  • Black pupil

Some of the Elf Skin Tone was also added to the mouth.  The teeth were Bone White (Vallejo Game Color) followed by Army painter Strong Tone then re-highlighted in Bone White.

The base coat of the top half of the fur was Mahogany Brown (Vallejo Model Color) where as the bottom half was the IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer.

Week 17 Lynxes

Thin lines of IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer mixed with Ivory (Vallejo Model Color) and flow improver were added to areas of the lower fur.  Some shorter lines of Ivory and flow improver were then added to highlight parts of the lower fur.

The upper fur had lines of Mahogany Brown mixed with Elf Skin Tone and flow improver added.  Then shorter lines of a lighter mixer and finally very short lines of the mixture mixed with Ivory.  Using a darker Caucasian skin tone like Barbarian Flesh may have worked better (Vince uses Sunny Skin Tone).

The markings round the face, neck and ears, plus the spotting were done using Liquitex Carbon Black ink.  The spotting was done following Gerry’s technique but with an empty metal ball point pen cartridge as my spotting tool (COGs only https://www.beastsofwar.com/featured/gerry-can-how-to-add-dots-to-miniatures/).

Lynxes were gloss varnished then stuck to 20mm square bases.  The edges of the cut base that remained attached to the Lynx were smoothed out with filler and re-primed along with the rest of the base.  The rim was then painted Heavy Grey (Vallejo Game Extra Opaque) and the same basing material was added and sealed that I used on the Drakons.  Everything was then matt varnished.

Week 17 Lynxes

What could I do to fix these if I had time and not a back log of miniatures?  I could do more striations over the top and deeper than the existing ones with more contrast between each smaller layer and add some grey to the spotting and markings.

Next week Dryads.

Week 15 and 16 Drakons done? Part2: Basing

Tutoring 8
Skill 9
Idea 8
1 Comment
Three types of drakonThree types of drakon

The Red Adult Drakon and the Drakon with rider (before the metallics)  were gloss and then matt varnished.

I knew with the Drakon rider that I wasn’t going to keep a cobblestone look to the base due to the rock the the drakon was standing on, but after basing the figure I decided to go with the same basing throughout.

My reasoning was that as I was going to be using the miniatures across multiple systems the basing didn’t have to be cobblestone.  Plus I wasn’t happy with the base painting I had already done and Gerry’s method would be quicker (Link for COGs https://www.beastsofwar.com/featured/gerry-can-how-to-make-custom-basing-mix/ ).

The Drakon Family (Diddle dee dump)The Drakon Family (Diddle dee dump)

Week 15 and 16 Drakons done? Part 1: Drakon with rider

Tutoring 10
Skill 9
Idea 8
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Horns, claws and bone spikes were done in the same way as week 7Horns, claws and bone spikes were done in the same way as week 7
RockRock

The rock was base coated with a thin coat of German Field Grey (Vallejo Model Colour) followed by a Paynes grey wash, then paint I had been using on other areas was applied.  I used the Yellow Ochre Glaze, Earth Tan and Chocolate Brown in random areas and then the bone white glaze on highlights.

Cloak and lance red glazeCloak and lance red glaze

The lance and the cloak were done using a similar method to the wings (Week 14):

  • Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Air) base coat
  • Violet Ink wash (week 14) on the cloak and in the shadows on the lance
  • Tan Earth drybrush
  • Barbarian Flesh (Army Painter) drybrush on the cloak, layered highlight on the lance
  • Ice Yellow (Vallejo Model Color) drybrush on the cloak, layered highlight on the lance
  • Ivory (Vallejo Model Color) drybrush on the cloak, layered highlight on the lance
  • Bloody Red Glaze (week 12)

The lance handle, saddle, straps and clothes were base coated Chocolate Brown (Vallejo Model Color) and drybrushed Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color).

ArmourArmour

For the armour of the rider, the lance tip and the chest piece of the Drakon I had a look at what colours Angel Giraldez uses for true metallic metal to get some ideas ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_McGLgzoeY  and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRK2uMZbz3Y ).  I then applied them in a slap dash way with the paints I had missing out several steps (Not a display model).  I went for a darker armour rather than silver.

  • Black basecoat followed by Gun Metal (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with the smallest amount of Panzer Dark Grey (Vallejo Model Air).
  • A mix of Sepia Ink (Vallejo Game Ink), Blue Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) and Black Wash (Vallejo Flames of War) washed into the shadows with a second more Blue Ink wash away from the shadows.
  • Gold (Army Painter Warpaints) with a tiny amount of Red Leather (Vallejo Model Color) was applied to the filigree and top crest.
  • Silver (Vallejo Game Color) with a tiny amount of white was applied to some of the edges including spots on the gold.
SkinSkin

The skin of the rider was a base coat of Tan Earth followed by Barbarian Flesh mixed with Ivory on the raised areas and then a more Ivory mix to highlight.

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