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Very Slow League of Infamy Project

Very Slow League of Infamy Project

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Project Blog by orinoco Cult of Games Member

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About the Project

I will be slowly working my way through painting the League of Infamy Kickstarter. As well as using the League of Infamy miniatures to play League of Infamy I intend to rebase the minis to Vanguard and Kings of War size (where required) before painting. This will also give me some more miniatures to add to Frostgrave.

This Project is Active

Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

Tutoring 3
Skill 3
Idea 3
No Comments
Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

The spearmen were painted in much the same ways as the archers from the previous entry, with a few tweaks.

Similar to the archers all the non-metallics were done first (except the shield emblem) then varnished with gloss then matt varnish.

Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

Even though I had already primed the spears, I was unhappy with them and swapped them out with plastic Fire Forge games ones that I had for a Dwarf conversion project (a further insult to the Dwarves).

Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

The reds were painted in the same way as the archer’s cloaks.  The spear staffs were painted the same as the bows and for the browns I missed out the archers brown glaze step.

Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

There was a slight change with the way I did the faces compared to the archers.  Mainly I went dark to light rather than mid, shadow then  highlight and changed out the Dark Green Ink for German Cam. Dark Green.  I did the eyes first before the skin.

So either:

  • German Cam. Dark Green (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with Dark Flesh Tone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • 1st highlight: Dark Flesh Tone
  • 2nd highlight: Dark Flesh Tone mixed with Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Air)

or:

  • Dark Flesh Tone mixed with Elf Skin Tone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • 1st highlight: Elf Skin Tone
  • 2nd highlight: Elf Skin Tone mixed with Ivory (Vallejo Model Color)
  • 3rd highlight: Ivory

 

The emblem on the shields was done using Cadmium Yellow oil paint with Gerry’s nail art technique https://www.beastsofwar.com/featured/gerry-can-show-nail-art-cheat-freehanding/

I haven’t quite got the pressure right for the nail art, but it will do.  The emblems are still to dry and after that I’ll varnish them.

Weeks 21-23: Elf Spearmen

The metallics were:

  • Black
  • Gunmetal (Vallejo Model Color) with a spot of Panzer Dark Grey (Vallejo Model Air)
  • Gold (Army Painter Warpaints) with a spot of Red Leather (Vallejo Model Color) on the helmet brow and crest
  • Black wash (Vallejo Flames of War) in the recesses
  • A mix of Sepia and Blue ink (Vallejo Game Ink) in the shadows
  • Silver (Vallejo Game Color) with a spot of White to highlight the armour including the gold

Week 19 and 20: Elf Archers

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 3
No Comments
Finished ArchersFinished Archers

As usual archers had been primed in week 7 with IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer then Titanium White Liquitex Acrylic Ink was sprayed from above.

Finished ArchersFinished Archers

Cloaks:

  • Base: Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Wash: Violet ink (Vallejo Game Ink) + Wash medium (from previous weeks)
  • Dry brush/Over brush: Tan Earth
  • Dry brush: Barbarian Flesh (Army Painter)
  • Dry brush highlights Ice Yellow (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Dry brush upper most highlights Ivory (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Glaze: Bloody Red (Vallejo Game Color) + Vallejo Glaze Medium
  • Glaze repeated where necessary
Finished ArchersFinished Archers

Leather/Quiver/Brown clothes:

  • Base: Chocolate Brown (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Drybrush: Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Glaze: Chocolate Brown + Vallejo Glaze Medium

Arrows/Bow:

  • Base: Green Grey (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Highlight: Pale Sand
  • Extreme highlights: Ivory
Finished ArchersFinished Archers

Hair:

  • Base: Pale Sand
  • Wash: Army Painter Soft Tone
  • Highlight: Pale Sand
  • Extreme highlight: Ivory

Skin:

Either

  • Base: Dark Flesh Tone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • Shading: Dark Green Ink (Vallejo Game Ink)
  • Highlight: Tan Earth mixed with Dark Flesh Tone

or

  • Base: Elf Skin Tone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • Shadows: Dark Flesh Tone mixed with Elf Skin Tone
  • Highlight 1: Elf Skin Tone mixed with Ivory
  • Highlight 2: Ivory

Eyes are Ivory with Black pupils and were painted before the skin.

Finished ArchersFinished Archers

The figures were varnished in gloss then matt before any metallic paint was used.

The armour and arrowhead were done by trying to roughly follow Angel Giraldez’s true metallic silver tutorial.  Warpaints Gold (Army Painter) mixed with a small spot of Red Leather (Vallejo Model Color) and highlighted with Silver (Vallejo Game Color) mixed with a small spot of white were used on the helmet front piece.

Armour/Arrowhead:

  • Base: Black then Gun Metal (Vallejo Model Color)
  • Wash in the shadows: a mix of Vallejo Black Wash (Flames of War), Sepia Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) and Blue Ink
  • 1st Highlight: Silver mixed with a small spot of white
  • Glaze Blue ink in areas then a mix of Blue and Sepia inks nearer the shadows.
  • Last Highlight: Silver mixed with a small spot of white

 

I had some problems with the 1st highlight being gritty due to the bottle at some point being stored upside down, so there was pigment stuck in the nozzle.  Once I took the nozzle off and cleared it the paint was a lot better.

 

Week 18 Dryads

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 3
1 Comment
Finished DryadsFinished Dryads

Tried to use the technique from Vince Venturella’s ‘Hobby Cheating 47 How to Paint Rich Sylvaneth Wood Tones’, but tried to get a slightly greyer tone rather than a rich one.

The Dryads had been primed in week 7 with IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer then Titanium White Liquitex Acrylic Ink was sprayed from above.

Finished DryadsFinished Dryads

I applied a Paynes Grey Wash to the whole figure (1 part Daler Rowney Paynes Grey Ink to 3 parts wash medium – see week 14), then dry brushed Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color).

The highlights were tidied up using Pale Sand.  Undiluted Sepia Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) was applied to all the wood and Black Green Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) to the foliage.

Finished DryadsFinished Dryads

The wood was then dry brushed with Green Grey (Vallejo Model Color) and  washed with a Sepia wash (1 part Vallejo Sepia ink to 4 parts wash medium).

After the wash had dried the wood got another drybrush of Green Grey mainly on the highlight areas.  The foliage was tidied up with more Black Green ink and a second coat added to the shadow areas.

Although not that noticeable a green glaze (Black Green ink plus Vallejo Glaze Medium) was applied to random areas of the wood and the same was done with an orange glaze (Rust Orange Vallejo Model Air plus Vallejo Glaze Medium).

Basing was applied and the minis were gloss then matt varnished.

Finished DryadsFinished Dryads

For the eyes I looked at Sam Lenz’s technique from ‘How to Paint Glowing Eyes – Painting with the Pro’ (Tabletop Minions).

I went for a green to try and tie the Dryads into the Green Lady fluff from Mantic.  A purple, blue or magenta would have been more poppy.

  • White in the sockets
  • A mix of Green Fluo (Vallejo Model Color) and white in the sockets
  • Edge highlight the areas around the eye with the previous mix
  • Diluted Waaargh! Green Ink (Citadel Ink) in the eyes and around them, wiping excess ink from the eyes
  • Repeat the edge highlight with the Green Fluo and white mix
  • Dot of white in the eye
  • Thinned Green Fluo (no white) in the eye and over the edge highlights
Green Fluo, Waaargh! Green Ink (out of production) and WhiteGreen Fluo, Waaargh! Green Ink (out of production) and White

If I painted these again I would go for a different ink on the foliage of each Dryad (violet, orange, blue, red, green etc) and paint a smaller area of the eyes with the initial white.

Highlights could be improved.  Some of the paint has a satin sheen before matt varnishing so I should go higher for the highlights before the matt dulls it down.

Overall I’m happy enough with these for a tabletop standard.

Edit to first post due to Halfling Beta list for Kings of War

Tutoring 6
Skill 6
Idea 7
No Comments

I’ve edited my very first post on bases sizes for anyone using League of Infamy figures in Vanguard or Kings of War now that there is a Beta list out for Kings of War.

Edit:

No Half Measures:

  • Halfling Infantry to 20mm bases
  • Iron Beast listed as Titan so current base is correct
  • Sauceror, Greedyguts and Feastmaster stay as 25mm bases

Week 17 Lynxes

Tutoring 7
Skill 9
Idea 6
No Comments
10 Lynxes10 Lynxes

Not overly happy with these but they’ll do.  I didn’t quite get the technique right.  There are 3 different shades of striations on the fur even though it only looks like one.  I was trying to roughly follow Vince Venturella’s hobby cheating  251 How to Paint Fur Texture.

Week 17 Lynxes

The Lynxes had been primed in week 7 with IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer then Titanium White Liquitex Acrylic Ink was sprayed from above.

The eyes were painted first so that any mistakes in that area could be covered later:

  • Base coat Elf Skin Tone (Vallejo Game Color)
  • Yellow Orchre (Vallejo Model Air) over the top of the base coat
  • Black pupil

Some of the Elf Skin Tone was also added to the mouth.  The teeth were Bone White (Vallejo Game Color) followed by Army painter Strong Tone then re-highlighted in Bone White.

The base coat of the top half of the fur was Mahogany Brown (Vallejo Model Color) where as the bottom half was the IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer.

Week 17 Lynxes

Thin lines of IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer mixed with Ivory (Vallejo Model Color) and flow improver were added to areas of the lower fur.  Some shorter lines of Ivory and flow improver were then added to highlight parts of the lower fur.

The upper fur had lines of Mahogany Brown mixed with Elf Skin Tone and flow improver added.  Then shorter lines of a lighter mixer and finally very short lines of the mixture mixed with Ivory.  Using a darker Caucasian skin tone like Barbarian Flesh may have worked better (Vince uses Sunny Skin Tone).

The markings round the face, neck and ears, plus the spotting were done using Liquitex Carbon Black ink.  The spotting was done following Gerry’s technique but with an empty metal ball point pen cartridge as my spotting tool (COGs only https://www.beastsofwar.com/featured/gerry-can-how-to-add-dots-to-miniatures/).

Lynxes were gloss varnished then stuck to 20mm square bases.  The edges of the cut base that remained attached to the Lynx were smoothed out with filler and re-primed along with the rest of the base.  The rim was then painted Heavy Grey (Vallejo Game Extra Opaque) and the same basing material was added and sealed that I used on the Drakons.  Everything was then matt varnished.

Week 17 Lynxes

What could I do to fix these if I had time and not a back log of miniatures?  I could do more striations over the top and deeper than the existing ones with more contrast between each smaller layer and add some grey to the spotting and markings.

Next week Dryads.

Week 15 and 16 Drakons done? Part2: Basing

Tutoring 6
Skill 7
Idea 6
1 Comment
Three types of drakonThree types of drakon

The Red Adult Drakon and the Drakon with rider (before the metallics)  were gloss and then matt varnished.

I knew with the Drakon rider that I wasn’t going to keep a cobblestone look to the base due to the rock the the drakon was standing on, but after basing the figure I decided to go with the same basing throughout.

My reasoning was that as I was going to be using the miniatures across multiple systems the basing didn’t have to be cobblestone.  Plus I wasn’t happy with the base painting I had already done and Gerry’s method would be quicker (Link for COGs https://www.beastsofwar.com/featured/gerry-can-how-to-make-custom-basing-mix/ ).

The Drakon Family (Diddle dee dump)The Drakon Family (Diddle dee dump)

Week 15 and 16 Drakons done? Part 1: Drakon with rider

Tutoring 8
Skill 8
Idea 6
No Comments
Horns, claws and bone spikes were done in the same way as week 7Horns, claws and bone spikes were done in the same way as week 7
RockRock

The rock was base coated with a thin coat of German Field Grey (Vallejo Model Colour) followed by a Paynes grey wash, then paint I had been using on other areas was applied.  I used the Yellow Ochre Glaze, Earth Tan and Chocolate Brown in random areas and then the bone white glaze on highlights.

Cloak and lance red glazeCloak and lance red glaze

The lance and the cloak were done using a similar method to the wings (Week 14):

  • Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Air) base coat
  • Violet Ink wash (week 14) on the cloak and in the shadows on the lance
  • Tan Earth drybrush
  • Barbarian Flesh (Army Painter) drybrush on the cloak, layered highlight on the lance
  • Ice Yellow (Vallejo Model Color) drybrush on the cloak, layered highlight on the lance
  • Ivory (Vallejo Model Color) drybrush on the cloak, layered highlight on the lance
  • Bloody Red Glaze (week 12)

The lance handle, saddle, straps and clothes were base coated Chocolate Brown (Vallejo Model Color) and drybrushed Pale Sand (Vallejo Model Color).

ArmourArmour

For the armour of the rider, the lance tip and the chest piece of the Drakon I had a look at what colours Angel Giraldez uses for true metallic metal to get some ideas.  I then applied them in a slap dash way with the paints I had missing out several steps (Not a display model).  I went for a darker armour rather than silver.

  • Black basecoat followed by Gun Metal (Vallejo Model Color) mixed with the smallest amount of Panzer Dark Grey (Vallejo Model Air).
  • A mix of Sepia Ink (Vallejo Game Ink), Blue Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) and Black Wash (Vallejo Flames of War) washed into the shadows with a second more Blue Ink wash away from the shadows.
  • Gold (Army Painter Warpaints) with a tiny amount of Red Leather (Vallejo Model Color) was applied to the filigree and top crest.
  • Silver (Vallejo Game Color) with a tiny amount of white was applied to some of the edges including spots on the gold.
SkinSkin

The skin of the rider was a base coat of Tan Earth followed by Barbarian Flesh mixed with Ivory on the raised areas and then a more Ivory mix to highlight.

Week 14 Work in Progress Green Adult Drakon

Tutoring 9
Skill 9
Idea 8
1 Comment
Under paintingUnder painting

Drakon was airbrush primed in week 7 with IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer then Titanium White Liquitex Acrylic Ink was sprayed from above.

Made a wash of 1 drop of Daler Rowney FW Paynes Grey Ink to 6 drops of Wash Medium  (COGs https://www.beastsofwar.com/featured/gerry-can-how-to-make-diy-professional-washes/ )

Applied the Paynes Grey wash to the areas that I wanted to paint green.

Base coated the chitin, eyes, wings, spine and underbelly Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Air), then applied a Violet wash.  The Violet wash was 1 drop of Vallejo Violet Game Ink to 6 drops of wash medium.

I left both washes to dry overnight.

Dry brushed/over brushed Tan Earth on the chitin, eyes, wings, spine and underbelly.  Followed by  dry brushes of Barbarian Flesh (Army Painter), Ice Yellow (Vallejo Model Color) and then, on the highest points, Ivory (Vallejo Model Color).

The areas covered in Paynes Grey Wash were drybrushed with Ice Yellow then Ivory on the highest points.

For the green skin I glazed a 50/50 mix of Goblin Green (Vallejo Game Color) and Vallejo Glaze medium.

The chitin, eyes, wings, spine and underbelly were glazed with a 50/50 mix of Yellow Ochre (Vallejo Game Color) and Vallejo Glaze medium.  Several coats were applied in some areas.

Week 13 Adult Drakon Ready to Varnish

Tutoring 8
Skill 8
Idea 7
No Comments
Unvarnished DrakonUnvarnished Drakon

Glazed the wings, chitin, back ridge and eyes with Yellow Ochre and Vallejo Glaze medium (2 coats).  The eyes also got a Black pupil with a dot of Ivory.

Went over the back scales with another glaze of Bloody Red and Glaze medium and touched up some of the other red areas.

Did the claws, teeth and horns the same method as detailed in week 7.  Made a bit of a mess of the horns after they were looking decent. My Bone White glaze ended up make the horns looking like they were banded and I’ve tried to fix this by redoing the striations with sepia ink.

I will varnish this Drakon when I’m varnishing the other adult Drakon after it is painted.

Week 12 Adult Drakon Work in Progress (Trying to Glaze)

Tutoring 8
Skill 8
Idea 8
1 Comment
Red Adult Drakon WIPRed Adult Drakon WIP
Paints and mediums used so farPaints and mediums used so far

Drakon was airbrush primed in week 7 with IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer then Titanium White Liquitex Acrylic Ink was sprayed from above.

Base coated the model Tan Earth (Vallejo Model Air) with an airbrush.

Panel lined the model with Violet (Vallejo Game Ink).

Overbrushed Tan Earth to try and tidy up the previous step.

Dry brushed Barbarian Flesh (The Army Painter War Paints)

Dry brushed Ice Yellow (Vallejo Model Color)

Dry brushed Ivory (Vallejo Model Color) on the highest areas along the back and the elbow.

Glazed the red areas with Vallejo Glaze Medium and Bloody Red (Vallejo Game Color).

 

This is my first attempt at using glaze medium.  At first I added paint and medium to my wet palette but that ended up a runny mess, so I ended up using a dry palette for that part.

The wings, spine and chitin will be glazed with Yellow Ochre (Vallejo Model Air). I will also try and glaze some of the Violet Ink into the shaded areas of skin.

Week 11 Part 2: Red and Green Comparison

Tutoring 6
Skill 7
Idea 7
1 Comment

Week 11 Part 1: Red Juvenile Drakons

Tutoring 6
Skill 7
Idea 8
No Comments
Tabletop standardTabletop standard

The Drakon skin was glazed several times with Bloody Red.  The Wings, eyes, horns,teeth and claws were all painted using the same method as the Green Juvenile Drakons (Week 7).  They were then gloss varnished followed by a matt varnish the next day.

Week 10 Underpainting

Tutoring 7
Skill 9
Idea 7
No Comments
WIP Red Juvenile DrakonsWIP Red Juvenile Drakons

Gave the Juvenile Drakons’ skin another coat of  my mix of Bloody Red and Cam. Black Brown, then highlighted layers of  Bloody Red and Ice Yellow mix .  The next step will be glazes of Bloody Red by thinning the paint with water and wicking my brush on paper towels before applying transparent layers to the figure.

Doing the wings and eyes in a similar fashion to the green Juvenile Drakons (Week 7).  These are now ready for glazing with Yellow Ochre.

Week 9 Part 4 Starting to get some base colour down

Tutoring 7
Skill 8
Idea 7
1 Comment
Base for the red Drakon skinBase for the red Drakon skin

Starting to base coat the other 5 Juvenile Drakons with a mix of Bloody Red and Cam. Black Brown.  Also emphasises that I need to take better photos.

Week 8 Part 3 Prison Photos Crawling

Tutoring 7
Skill 7
Idea 7
No Comments

One of the finished Juvenile Drakons crawling.

Week 8 Part 2 Prison Photos Standing

Tutoring 7
Skill 8
Idea 7
No Comments

One of the finished standing Juvenile Drakons

Week 8 Part 1 Tabletop Standard

Tutoring 7
Skill 8
Idea 7
No Comments
5 Juvenile Drakons done5 Juvenile Drakons done

Finished painting 5 of the Juvenile Drakons to a point I happy to game with.  Varnished with Winsor and Newton Galeria Gloss Varnish followed by Vallejo Polyurethane Matt Varnish the next day.

Week 7 Part 3 Colour Choice (Drakon is work in progress and has not had all the described colours added yet)

Tutoring 8
Skill 8
Idea 8
No Comments
Cam. Black Brown (Vallejo Model Air), Bloody Red (Vallejo Game Color) and Ice Yellow (Vallejo Model Color)Cam. Black Brown (Vallejo Model Air), Bloody Red (Vallejo Game Color) and Ice Yellow (Vallejo Model Color)

The mouth and the alternative Drakon skin will be red.

  • Mixtures of Bloody Red and Cam. Black Brown will be the base coat and the shade.
  • Bloody Red and Ice Yellow mixtures are used to highlight followed by glazes of Bloody Red.
Cam. Black Brown (Vallejo Model Air), Goblin Green (Vallejo Game Color) and Ice Yellow (Vallejo Model Color)Cam. Black Brown (Vallejo Model Air), Goblin Green (Vallejo Game Color) and Ice Yellow (Vallejo Model Color)

Green skin for the drakon.

  • Goblin Green is used as a base.
  • Mixtures of Goblin Green and Cam. Black Brown are used to shade.
  • Ice Yellow and Goblin Green mixtures used to highlight.
  • Goblin Green glazes used to try and smooth things out.
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo Game Color), Barbarian Flesh (Army Painter Warpaints) and Yellow Ochre (Vallejo Model Air)Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo Game Color), Barbarian Flesh (Army Painter Warpaints) and Yellow Ochre (Vallejo Model Air)

The belly, wing membrane and eyes will be Yellow Ochre.

  • Barbarian Flesh is the base.
  • Preshading with mixtures of Dark Fleshtone and Barbarian Flesh.
  • Highlighting with Barbarian Flesh then glazing with Yellow Ochre.

The picture has only the base coat.

Bonewhite (Vallejo Game Color), Ivory (Vallejo Model Color), Strong and Soft tone (Army Painter Quickshade), Sepia Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) and Orange Rust (Vallejo Model Air)Bonewhite (Vallejo Game Color), Ivory (Vallejo Model Color), Strong and Soft tone (Army Painter Quickshade), Sepia Ink (Vallejo Game Ink) and Orange Rust (Vallejo Model Air)

Horns, claws and teeth.

Not all of these will be used as some of the areas are really small.

  • Base is Bonewhite.
  • Mixtures of the Quick Shades near the base of the horns, claws and teeth.
  • Striations done with diluted Sepia ink.
  • Glazes of Bonewhite.
  • Dot of Ivory on the tips followed by a glaze of Orange Rust.

Week 7 Part 2 Starting to Paint

Tutoring 7
Skill 8
Idea 7
No Comments

Starting to get some paint on the Juvenile Drakons.  5 will be green, loosely following the card art work, and the other 5 will be red.

Week 7 Part 1 Primed

Tutoring 7
Skill 8
Idea 8
No Comments

Primed the figures with IDF Israeli Sand Grey Vallejo Surface Primer.  Airbrushed Titanium White Liquitex Acrylic Ink to try and give a bit of a Zenithal.

First time using the white ink and I need to experiment more with this.  Maybe reducing the pressure or adding matt medium.  I won’t be glazing directly over this so doesn’t matter too much this time.

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