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Marvel Crisis Protocol by Lawnor

Marvel Crisis Protocol by Lawnor

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Project Blog by lawnor Cult of Games Member

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About the Project

I've got a bunch of naked MCP stuff, and it's time to get it table ready. My friends are getting in to it so I need a squad ready to go ASAP.

This Project is Completed

Work Begins on the Shacks

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The shacks were primed with everything else a couple of weeks ago.  I’m starting with the walls as this is by far the biggest colour, so that’s what I want to airbrush.

The Greens were base coated with VGC 72.090 Black Green Ink.  I then tried highlighting them with VGC 72.089 Green ink, but it wasn’t light enough so I added a drop of P3 Yellow Ink.  I think it was about 6:1 green:yellow, but it might have been 8:1.  That yellow really overpowers the green and makes it a little radioactive glow-ish.  All highlights were applied by roughly painting just the middle area of each panel.

The same approach was taken on the orange shacks.  I based with VMC 70.981 Orange Brown and highlighted with VGC 72.038 Scrofulous Brown.

The voids were painted with a very dark grey.  I didn’t have one to hand so I added a little VMC 70.869 Basalt Grey to GW Abaddon Black.  It took a lot of black to keep it dark.  I thought the black would be the dominant colour in the mix, but I was very wrong.  We want a near black, but not actual black.

Work Begins on the Shacks

All three shacks have cash registers so lets get them done next.  Colour choices on these windows is going to be a pain.  I can’t use blacks/dark greys.  Blues will create problems with the windows later.  I don’t want colours to similar to the walls.  To make things worse some idiot keeps putting clear glass items in and expects us to paint them!

Cash Registers
Base VMC 70.988 Khaki
Pinwash GW Agrax Earthshade
Careful Drybrush P3 Menoth White Base

Work Begins on the Shacks

The cups were up next.  Another beige-ish colour in a small space.  I fear this is going to be an issue with these things.  I’ll do what I can

Paper Cups
Base Scalecolour SFG-39 peanut Butter
Wash GW Agrax Earthshade
Drybrush P3 Hammerfall Khaki

The cup on top of that cake display box has a beigy-white lid

Plastic Lid
Base P3 Menoth White Base
Highlight P3 Menoth White Highlight

Work Begins on the Shacks

Corporate Art Finished

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I ended up soaking it with thinned PVA one more time, but it was still springy. I glued some more dirt over the top to level it off, then sealed that with a final coat of thinned PVA. The planter itself was painted the same as the paving on the bases. The mud itself was based with P3 Umbral Umber mixed with PVA Brown Ink. It was drybrushed with P3 Rucksack Tan and then P3 Jack Bone. I then glued down flowery tufts in a symmetrical pattern, as if it is a fresh, planned, and maintained flower bed. Once I was done I glued on the sculpture.

What do you think? I’ll have to get a pic of it in situ later.  Imagine this with a couple of park benches backed up to it, and someone sat on one eating a sandwich and some pigeons trying to get the crumbs.

I’ve almost finished the shacks.  I just need another couple of hours.  It’s just the windows to go.  Not only did I run out of time, but Ghools Youtube channel appears to have vanished and I can’t entirely remember how I did the car windows and I want them to match.  Anyone know why his channel has gone down, or know a way I can get to that video again?  I can try and repeat my efforts from memory but I’m afraid or ruining the last 2 weeks worth of work.

Daily Bugle & Daily Grind WIP Part 2

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Back to the shacks.

The percolator, and some other details annoy me here. Whoever sculpted these did a good job, but clearly didn’t think about painting them. Google percolators. They’re all a mix of chrome, black and glass. I can’t use black against that black background. I don’t want to paint the jug as glass because it’ll be half brown coffee and half black background, or reflect the sky. I don’t like either in this location. In the studio scheme the shelf/window frame its sat on is steel, so chrome won’t differentiate too well, built feels like my best awkward option.

Percolator
Base: Reaper 89556 Adamantine
Layer: VGC 72.053 Chainmail
Layer: Chainmail mixed with VMA 71.064 Chrome

There’s a box or something on top of that cake stand. Lets assume its a takeaway cake box and paint it pink.

Small Cake Box
Base: P3 Carnal Pink
Edge Highlight: Carnal Pink mixed with White

That cake stand is annoying. What sort of monster puts a clear glass box there which clearly should have cakes visible through it? Screw it. I’m treating it the same as the windows, which will match the cars I did earlier. Still, I need to paint it’s gold frame first. I’ll do all the glass last.

Cake Stand Frame
Base: GW Retributor Gold
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade
Highlight: Retributor Gold
Highlight: Retributor Gold mixed with P3 Solid Gold
Highlight: P3 Solid Gold
Highlight: P3 Solid Gold mixed with P3 Radiant Platinum
Layer: Chrome

Daily Bugle & Daily Grind WIP Part 2

Back to the Daily Bugles.

Here’s my next gripe.  They thought it was a good idea to expect people to freehand paint 8 newspapers on this terrain piece in the starter set!  Hell no!  I’ve been painting for 10+ years and I still can’t do that.  I found some printable newspapers online for use as base decorations.  Pretty sure I can glue them here instead.  I’ll want an off-white undercoat first to cover any gaps that show through, and to reinforce the white paper than sticks over them.  I’d hate to find out too late that the glue makes them semi transparent and the black or green bleeds through.

Newspaper racks
Undercoat newspapers with Reaper 09149 Mouldy Skin
Basecoat wood stand: P3 Bloodstone
Drybrush/Edge Highight: P3 Bogrin Brown
Pinwash: GW Agrax Earthshade

 

Sorastro linked some marvel themed newspapers, magazines and posters that are ready to print.  I tiled it 3 times on a sheet of A4 and printed it actual size.  That made them a little too big for this so I cut them down.  Try reducing the size by 10-20%?  I cut them out and dry fit them to confirm their size.  I then glued them on with a little PVA.  Once they’d had a few hours to dry I thinned a little PVA and applied this over the top to seal them in.  I did this again a day later.

Lastly, it’s the bags of crisps.  Do designs if you want.  I wanted quick and simple.  They’re small and basic.

Crisps
Blue: P3 Cygnar Blue Highlight
Red: P3 Khador Red Base
Yellow: Undercoat P3 Mouldy Ochre then base with P3 Sulfuric yellow

Daily Bugle & Daily Grind WIP Part 2
Sorastros work, not mineSorastros work, not mine

That’s the serveries done so let’s do the signs next, starting with the Daily Bugles.  it would have been nice if they’d included an alternate sign in the NYC Terrain pack so it could be different to the core set version if you wanted.  If I’d been good with tools and modding I might have sliced it up so it spelled “Daily Bulge” and make it sell adult magazines instead.  I’d have just made a mess though.

White Letters
Base: Reaper 09150 Bloodless Skin
Drybrush: P3 Morrow White
Once the rest of the sign is finished and the red has bled on to the white I went back with a mix of Bloodless Skin and Morrow White and fixed everything.  Pretty sure I painted a lot more of the letter fronts with this mix than I needed to.

Red Background
Base: VGI 72.086 Red Ink

That’s all I used.  I trusted the mess underneath to provide some tonal variation.  I wish I had not glued on either sign so I could have painted them separately.  I should have gone back with the airbrush before starting the sign and smoothed out the darker tones as they took a lot to cover with ink.  Oh well.  Lesson learned.

Bugle Emblem

Base: Overbrush with P3 Molten Bronze
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade
Drybrush: Molten Bronze
Drybrush: P3 Rhulic Gold

Dark Grey Frame

Base: VMA 71.054 Dark Grey Blue
Drybrush: P3 Hammerfall Khaki
Wash: GW Nuln Oil

I then went back and fixed any contamination.

Daily Bugle & Daily Grind WIP Part 2

Over to The Daily Grind sign.  In the studio scheme the letters have this nice Cheers-esque transition to them.  I decided I wasn’t going to be able to do that, at least without putting in a lot more time and effort than I was willing to do for these pieces.  Then I did it really quickly and easily by accident and was super happy so went with it.

Letters

Base: VGA 72.709 Hot Orange
Overbrush/Drybrush VGC 72.008 Orange Fire.  Brush from the top down but stop half way.  I’ve no idea if I’ll ever be able to repeat this, but it just happened by accident and it looked great and natural.
Drybrush: P3 Mouldy ochre to just the tops of each edge

Background
Base VGC 72.147 Heavy BlackGreen.  This looked patchy as hell as some of it kept drying a little glossy while most of it didn’t.  I had to trust varnish would fix this later.
Pinwash: GW Nuln Oil

Frame

Base: P3 Hammerfall Khaki
Wash: P3 Gun Corps Brown
Drybrush: Hammerfall Khaki
Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Base

 

Here we see it before and after getting it’s final varnish.  Sometimes you just have to have faith and go with it.

On to the canopies.  I wasn’t sure whether to paint the metal frames or the cloth parts first.  There was a good argument for both.  In the end I decided to base coat the cloth, then paint the metal, then fix and paint the cloth

Canopy Cloth

Base Daily Grind: VMC 70.823 Luftwaffe Cam. Green
Base Daily Bugle: Scalecolor SC-32 Black leather

Brass Frame
Base: P3 Blighted Gold
Wash: P3 Cryx Bane base mixed with P3 Brown Ink
Targeted Wash: P3 Umbral Umber mixed with P3 Coal Black
Layer Highlight: P3 Brass Balls
Edge Highlight: P3 Brass Balls mixed with P3 Radiant Platinum

Green Canopy

Repair Base: VMC 70.823 Luftwaffe Cam. Green
Layer Highlight: VMC 70.922 Uniform Green

Red/Brown Canopy

Repair Base: Scalecolor SC-32 Black leather
Layer Highlight: SC-30 Red Leather
Layer Highlight: VGC 72.012 Scarlett Red

I think I tried blending the canopy colours together here.  Not my best work, but done is done and no one should be focusing on the terrain when playing.

Daily Bugle & Daily Grind WIP Part 3

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Doors and door handles next.

Doors
Base: VMC 70.881 Yellow Green
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade
Drybrush: P3 Thrall Flesh. Not just the edges. Swirl it about a bit to simulate wear, but not too hard

Door Handles and Locks
Base: GW Retributor Gold
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade
Layer Highlight: P3 Brass Balls

Window Frames, Grilles, Lights etc

Base: P3 Pig Iron
Wash: GW Nuln Oil
Drybrush: P3 Cold Steel

 

Daily Bugle & Daily Grind WIP Part 3

I base coated the windows (P3 Exile Blue) and then remembered I’d forgotten the lights so went back and did them the same as the street lights from earlier

Lights
Base: P3 Rucksack Tan
Highlight: P3 Sulfuric Yellow

 

Daily Bugle & Daily Grind WIP Part 3

The concrete sections were painted the same as the paving on my bases.  This took forever.  Another example of there the sculptor clearly wasn’t going to have to paint a tables worth of these themselves!

Concrete
Base: VMC 70.836 London Grey
Wash: Jan’s Magimix (6-8 Parts GW Nuln Oil, 6-8 Parts GW Agrax Earthshade, 5-6 Parts Lahmium Medium, 2 parts Athonian Camoshade.  Thanks, Januinevision)
Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Base and a nice puffy makeup brush

Daily Bugle & Daily Grind WIP Part 3

Daily Bugle & Daily Grind WIP Part 4 - Windows

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Two-or-three-ish weeks ago I painted the windows on my card following a Youtube video by Ghool.  I loved the results and have every intention of following his video again for these windows.  However it appears in that time someone has deleted almost every proof of Ghools existence from the internet.  His Youtube channel is gone.  His Patreon is blank.  I can’t find a Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram account for him.  He’s been teaching people to paint online for who knows how many years and all that content appears to just be gone.  I don’t understand why, unless he’s doing some big overhaul of everything and it’ll all be back soon?

I did not write down what I did.  Why would I when the video is there forever and does a much better job than my notes ever would.  Bugger.  I’ve been checking daily for almost a week and there’s no signs of life from Ghools content so It’s up to me to try and remember what I did and make notes this time.  Welcome to my notes.

Base Coat with P3 Exile BlueBase Coat with P3 Exile Blue
Prepare some P3 Exile Blue and P3 Meridius Blue on your palette.  Mix with the bare minimum water only.  Paint the high point of the window with Meridius Blue, and then put a line of Exile Blue along it.  DO NOT LET THEM DRY!  Act quick!Prepare some P3 Exile Blue and P3 Meridius Blue on your palette. Mix with the bare minimum water only. Paint the high point of the window with Meridius Blue, and then put a line of Exile Blue along it. DO NOT LET THEM DRY! Act quick!
Wet your brush.  Take the wort off by touching it to your tongue (I remember Ghool saying that) but leave it wet.  You want enough water for your paints to thin as you push them around, but not so much you flood the area.  Touch your brush to the highest highlight edge or corner and brush side to side while pulling paint to the opposite edge.  Do not lift your brush.  Work your way back up and down a few times until you are happy enough.Wet your brush. Take the wort off by touching it to your tongue (I remember Ghool saying that) but leave it wet. You want enough water for your paints to thin as you push them around, but not so much you flood the area. Touch your brush to the highest highlight edge or corner and brush side to side while pulling paint to the opposite edge. Do not lift your brush. Work your way back up and down a few times until you are happy enough.
Allow that to dry.  Repeat the step if wanted.  I did.  Allow that to dry.Allow that to dry. Repeat the step if wanted. I did. Allow that to dry.
Paint a smaller highlight with P3 Arcane Blue (Again almost as waterless as from the pot), and paint a thin line of Meridios Blue under that.  Repeat the swipes with a wet brushPaint a smaller highlight with P3 Arcane Blue (Again almost as waterless as from the pot), and paint a thin line of Meridios Blue under that. Repeat the swipes with a wet brush
Allow to dryAllow to dry
Mix a touch of Arcane Blue in to some thinned white and paint a few lines across the windows following the direction of swishMix a touch of Arcane Blue in to some thinned white and paint a few lines across the windows following the direction of swish
Once everything else is finished and varnished apply an optional coat of gloss varnish to your windows.  I should have thinned mine down but I was in a rush so I didn't and now there are bumps and brush strokes in it that show up when the light catches themOnce everything else is finished and varnished apply an optional coat of gloss varnish to your windows. I should have thinned mine down but I was in a rush so I didn't and now there are bumps and brush strokes in it that show up when the light catches them

Is this perfect?  No.  Is this exactly what Ghool did?  Probably not.  Will it do?  Yup.  Definitely.  On the table no one will be looking directly at the terrain, and from a distance, or when you’re not looking directly at it it’s just right.  I experimented a little to get these results.  I tried not applying the darker tone in a line.  I tried brushing up from the bottom first with a watery brush.  I tried with a little too much water on my brush and had to fix it fast!  This was the closest I could come up with to whatever it was I did before.

I think the shape of these windows affected the results.  Every window pane here is recessed a little, which is made worse by the concrete frame to the shacks.  With the cars I could almost lay the brush flat while swishing.  I could not do that here and I could feel that making things harder.

They’re done and I am happy enough.  That’s the last of the terrain.  The core set is finished.  I can return to the fun of painting people, and escape the hardship of painting things that don’t fit in my hand or on a hobby holder.

The Hulk and the Wakandans are built and will get primed tonight.

Hulk Smash! (-ed Out In Less Than A Day)

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I had some concerns about painting Hulk.  I was afraid I’d end up painting him too similar in green to the car or the Daily Bugles.  I’d seen the work of others that pushed in to yellow and I was afraid I might stray too far in to yellow.  So I found a guide and used that for inspiration for colour choices.  I didn’t follow it exactly, but I followed Sorastros guide, using equivalent paints I had to hand.

Hulk Flesh
Airbrush reverse zenithnal with VGC 72.147 Heavy Black Green
Wide Zenithal Airbrush with 50/50 mix of Heavy Black Green and VMC 70.922 Uniform Green
Narrow Zenithal airbrush with pure Uniform Green
Targeted airbrush with VMC 70.967 Olive Green

I did some airbrush work here on some other projects while it was out and continued the flesh by brush later on.

Hulk Smash! (-ed Out In Less Than A Day)

Next I picked out the hair

Hair
Base: P3 Thamar Black mixed with just enough P3 Greatcoat Grey to lighten it
Wash: GW Nuln Oil
Highlight: P3 Hammerfall Khaki
Highlight: P3 Hammerfall Khaki mixed with P3 Menoth White Base
Highlight: Menoth White Base
Glaze: GW Agrax Earthshade

Hulk Smash! (-ed Out In Less Than A Day)

Back to the green.  Watch the video linked about for more detailed steps.  I’m really skipping over a lot here.  My words can never inform as well as that video.

Hulk Flesh Continued
It’s all brushwork from now on
Highlight: VMC 70.967 Olive Green
Highlight: VMC 70.827 Lime Green
Glaze transitions with P3 Iosan Green
Highlight: VMC 70.827 Lime Green
Deep Shade with mix of VGC 72.147 Heavy Black Green and GW Naggaroth Night.  Also apply to finger nails

Mouth
Gum: P3 Khardic Flesh mixed with a little black
Teeth: P3 Menoth White Highlight mixed with a little black
Highlight teeth with Menoth White Highlight

Hulk Flesh Contd…
Highlight “Light”/right side of face with Lime Green mixed with Khardic Flesh
Highlight Lime Green mixed with Miniature Paints 64 Lemon Yellow.
Highlight “dark”/left side of face with Lime Green mixed with P3 Arcane Blue
Highlight Lime Green mixed with more  Lemon Yellow.  Use on all appropriate regions, but definitely pick out veins with this.

Eyes
Base with P3 Menoth White Highlight, possibly from the above mix with a little black.  You want it to look different to the teeth.
Put some GW Coelia Greenshade over both eyes and count to about 10 before removing it with your brush.
Pupil: Black

Next up is the Hulk pants.  Traditionally, these are purple, but I didn’t want a vibrant purple.  I’ve multiple purple triads from a few different companies, but they all seem to be basically the same 3 shades, ideal for Tyranids.  I wanted something more desaturated so I experimented by adding some grey to what I had.  Here’s what I ended up doing:

Purple Hulk Pants
Base: Reaper MSP 09022 Nightshade Purple mixed to taste with VMC 70.990 Light Grey
Shade: Thinned Nightshade Purple
Highlight: Reaper MSP 09023 Imperial Purple mixed to taste with Light Grey
Highlight: Add more Light Grey

Hulk Smash! (-ed Out In Less Than A Day)

The button doing all the work keeping those pants on was based with P3 Deathless Metal and given a dot of GW Retributor Armour for a glint.  he was based the same as the earlier models.

Wakanda Foraboutaweekend!

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I’ve 4 models here, one of which was mostly done in one airbrush blast, and the other three have the same skin tone I want to do at the same time.  Lets start with the Black panther because he’s quick to get done and put on one side.

Black Panther Suit
Prime black. Use only a gentle zenithal light grey.  Nothing as heavy handed as usual
Airbrush Base Coat with Hataka A001 Dark Sea Blue (I find Hataka paints too thin to paint with by brush, but they work well enough through an airbrush.  The thinness can help let a zenithal preshade influence things, too.
Wash: GW Nuln Oil
Targeted Drybrush: P3 Gravedigger Denim on high points only (I thought of this after taking the next pic but forgot to take an updated shot.

Wakanda Foraboutaweekend!

I then put him on one side until I was ready to paint the steel on another model.

Killmonger’s Trousers
Base: P3 Traitor Green
Wash only in the folds etc, not over the whole surface with GW Agrax Earthshade
Highlight: Traitor Green mixed with P3 Wyrm Green
Highlight: Wyrm Green

Killmongers Belt & Straps
Base: P3 Battlefield Brown
Drybrush: P3 Thrall Flesh (You can afford to get this on the trousers)
Wash: GW Nuln Oil

Killmongers Shoes
Base: VMC 70.995 German Grey
Drybrush: P3 Beast Hide
Wash: GW Nuln Oil

He then went to one side until I was ready for metallics.

Shuri has two shades of yellow on her.

Yellow Skirt
Undercoat: p3 Mouldy Ochre (Do other yellow areas too)
Base: 50/50 mix of Gamecraft Miniature Paint Golden Brown and Gamecraft Miniature Paint Canary Yellow.  This took more coats than I would have liked, and the detail may have suffered a bit.  Airbrushing would likely have covered better with less.
Layer Shade: Thinned Golden Brown
Layer Highlight: Canary Yellow
Layer Highlight 2: Canary yellow mixed 1:1 with Gamecraft Miniature Paint Lemon Yellow
Layer Highlight 3: Canary yellow mixed 1:2 with  Lemon Yellow
Layer Highlight 4: Lemon Yellow
Layer Highlight 5: Lemon Yellow with just a touch of P3 Morrow White
Layer Highlight 6: Add more white
Layer Highlight 7: Add more white
Layer Highlight 8: Add glint highlights with just pure white CAREFULLY!

Yellow Leg Patches
Undercoat P3 Mouldy ochre
Base: Instar Alpha Pure Oxide Yellow
Wash: P3 Bogwin Brown
Reclaim with base
Highlight: Instar Alpha Pure Mid Yellow
Highlight: Instar Pale Yellow

Shuri Blue 
Base: Instar Alpha Electric Blue
Layer Shade: Instar Alpha Pure Warm Blue
Highlight: Warcolours Marine 4
Highlight: Warcolours Marine 3

Shuri then joined the others on one side waiting.

When I had the airbrush out at the start I gave Okoye a few sprays of VGC Red Ink, allowing the zenithal preshade to provide natural gradients.  I added a little P3 Yellow Ink to the mix and used this to enhance the highlights.  A few select deep shadows were picked out with GW Carroburg Crimson.  I then returned Killmonger to my tray, along side Okoye, and painted their golds

Gold
Base: Darkstar Regency Gold
Wash: Thin a little VGC 72.091 Sepia with Instar Water+ and apply all over
Reclaim with base
Highlight: Darkstar Royal Gold
Highlight with Darkstar Braid Gold

Everyone returned to the tray now.

Vibranium
Base: Darkstar Old Silver
Wash: Italeri Wash 4953AP Oiled Earth
Pin/targeted Wash: GW Nuln Oil
Highlight: P3 Radiant Platinum
Highlight: P3 Radiant Platinum mixed with VMA 71.064 Chrome

Shuri & Okoye’s Black Cloth
Base: VMC 70.995 German grey
Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Base
Wash: GW Nuln Oil

Okoye’s Tan Leather Skirts
Base: P3 Rucksack Tan
Wash: P3 Gun Corps Brown
Dark Wash: P3 Battlefield Brown
Drybrush: P3 Rucksack Tan mixed with P3 Menoth White Base
Drybrush above with added P3 Menoth White Highlight

African Flesh Tones
Base: Foundry African Flesh Shade 126A
Layer Highlight: Foundry African Flesh 126B
Layer Highlight: Foundry African Flesh Light 126C
Pin Wash: Army Painter Strong Tone

Eyes
Base: Reaper MSP 09150 Bloodless Skin
Pupil: Black

Hair
Base: Mix of P3 Thamar Black and P3 Battlefield Brown
Wash: GW Nuln Oil
Drybrush: P3 Battlefield Brown

Wood
Base: P3 Hammerfall Khaki
Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Highlight
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade

Extra Straps Etc
Base: P3 Bootstrap Leather
Drybrush: P3 Menoth White Highlight
Wash: GW Agrax Earthshade
Pick out buckles etc with P3 Cold Steel

Gold and Silver Trim
Base: Either GW Retributor Gold or Pig iron
Wash Gold: GW Agrax Earthshade
Highlight: Either P3 Solid Gold or P3 Quick Silver

Everyone was then based the same as previously.

More Papercraft Terrain

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So all my characters are done and I’ve got a load of size 1-3 terrain, maybe even 1 4 or two. I don’t have any size 5’s though. I do have a Tymeagain/4Ground voucher I received in march which I was going to use to order a building or two. However it’s not working and they’re not answering their emails. I’m choosing to believe they are busy hands on types who don’t sit at a computer all day and I’m giving them time.
In the mean time though I want some buildings on my table so I scoured the internet and found some ready to print 30mm scale buildings for a game called “Z War One”. I’ve printed out a couple on to regular A3 paper (I upscaled to 110% because MCP is around 40mm scale, but it’ll be helpful if these buildings will work for 40mm and fit for 30mm too).

Once printed out, I glued them on to the backs of pizza and cereal boxes. They didn’t all fit, so I had to cut along the corners of buildings and make my own tabs to rebuild later.

More Papercraft Terrain

WIP

More Papercraft Terrain

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So all my characters are done and I’ve got a load of size 1-3 terrain, maybe even 1 4 or two. I don’t have any size 5’s though. I do have a Tymeagain/4Ground voucher I received in march which I was going to use to order a building or two. However it’s not working and they’re not answering their emails. I’m choosing to believe they are busy hands on types who don’t sit at a computer all day and I’m giving them time.

In the mean time though I want some buildings on my table so I scoured the internet and found some ready to print 30mm scale buildings for a game called “Z War One”. I’ve printed out a couple on to regular A3 paper (I upscaled to 110% because MCP is around 40mm scale, but it’ll be helpful if these buildings will work for 40mm and fit for 30mm too).

The files can be found HERE.  There are 3 different files.  One seems to make rooms etc for on the deck of a ship.  Another has mostly the front halves of council flats, but if you could mirror the images and print out a second set that would probably make whole buildings.

Once printed out, I trimmed most of the excess paper off, leaving a healthy margin.  You want to glue beyond the lines to reduce the chances of peeling later and extra paper lets you do that.  otherwise you likely won’t glue all the way up to the edge.  I then glued them on to the backs of pizza and cereal boxes using a pritt stick. They didn’t all fit, so I had to cut along the corners of buildings and make my own tabs to rebuild later.

More Papercraft Terrain

I left them longer than perhaps they needed to dry.  I had other things to be doing, so why chance it?  I then cut them out, remembering to leave extra tabs where I’d had to cut two walls apart.  I also made every tab larger than was drawn.  It’s handy to have extra surface area for glue.  you can always trim excess off later, but you can’t really add more on once it’s cut.

More Papercraft Terrain

I used a metal ruler and the edge of a screwdriver to score along the folds.  I didn’t want to use anything too sharp in case I cut too deep.  I discovered that using a blunt tool means the paper tears though, so I switched back to my hobby knife and was careful with the pressure I applied.

More Papercraft Terrain

I then used superglue and care to put everything together.  I wouldn’t trust Pritt Stick to hold, and PVA would take far too long to dry without clamps holding everything together.

Be careful at this stage.  It’s easy to accidentally glue your fingers to the models and damage the printouts.  Look at the back of the newsagents near that bin.  I can live with it though.

I’d been putting off making more papercraft terrain because my Pritt Stick had dried up.  You know how they are.  Two minutes after first use, they’ve lost their stickiness.  I don’t know how many of mine went in the bin as a kid.  They’re great, but have a very short lifespan and you never get the full use out of them.

Did you know they can be easily restored, no matter how long they’ve been dry?  I didn’t, but I googled and it turns out it’s super simple.  Before bed one night I ran mine under the tap and gently filled it up.  I put the lid back on and left it standing in the sink (I forgot to flip it.  I’ve only just remembered I was supposed to do that).  Next morning it was moist and possibly useable, but I feared it had drained overnight so I topped it off before going to work, but this time left it standing in water in a cup, filled just above the twisty bit.  That evening I used to to make these building.  It worked a treat.  Pretty sure my Pritt Stick had dried up long before anyone knew the word Covid.

Never waste a glue stick again!  Amazing!  Something I could have done with knowing 40 years ago.

Battle Report On My First Game

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Well, it’s probably not going to end up as a true battle report, but those are the magic words used to summon a Gerry so let’s see if this gets me on the uHH or boosts my chances in the Spring Cleaning Challenge. I have pics of the end of each round. lets se how much or little I can remember, or will I just go for general opinions I had after play?

This is my first ever game. I’m a learn by doing type. I’d read the rules, but they go in one eye and out the other unless I get to apply them while re-reading them so I set up the demo game from the Learn to Play guide and played against myself. Here we see the initial setup as prescribed in that book. I like that it didn’t start with good vs evil. it mixed the teams, reinforcing the idea that that’s how we play. It also meant that each side had three models gaining the affiliation bonus and two who didn’t, forcing us to learn how that works.

The SetupThe Setup

Round 1 was mostly people running forward to claim objectives.  Some of the later characters actually got to make attacks.  Spiderman hurt Crossbones, knocking him back 2, but he got a reactive 2 move so basically stood still.  Doc Ock took a hit off Black Widow, Zemo got shot by Iron Man, and Red Skull hurt himself to gain power.  I didn’t even look at my tactic cards.

Team Skull has picked up two of the mobile objectives (Cosmic Cube fragments) and is guarding two of the immobile objectives (Extremis terminals)

Team Captain America has two of the Cube fragments and is only camping one of the terminals.  The plan was for Crossbones to grab that shard and head back over the following turn to that central terminal.  I had already forgotten that by this stage, or he may have moved that way after Spiderman pushed him.

4-3 to Red Skull at the end of Round 1 (It’s first to 15 wins)

End of round 1: Team Captain America 3, Team Red Skull 4End of round 1: Team Captain America 3, Team Red Skull 4

Spiderman and Zemo are able to flip Crossbones card, causing him to drop his Cube Fragment.  Zemo grabs it and runs back towards Red Skull.  Spiderman pulls Iron man away from the terminal and then runs in to control it.  Captain America retreats to camp the Extremis Terminal, with an eye to aiding in the red car fight with a long range attack later.  Doc Ock and Captain Marvel are able to throw Ultron backwards in to a crossing light, leaving him on one health.  He will become dazed and drop his Cube Shard at the start of the next round, but not until after scoring.  The red car terminal is now dominated by Team Captain America.

Team America is controlling 2 terminals and holds 2 fragments, scoring 4 points.  Team Skull controls 2 terminals and holds 3 fragments, scoring 5.

I appear to have accidentally cheated here.  Zemo had one Cube Fragment during round 1 and it appears to have drifted over to Red Skulls card at some point.  I’m only noticing that now.

End of round 2: Team Captain America 7, Team Red Skull 9End of round 2: Team Captain America 7, Team Red Skull 9

I remembered to look at the tactics cards this turn, but barely used them.  It was too much for me to keep track of everything for both sides during my first game, and a lot of the abilities seem situation, and I’d already made some unusable through positioning.

Team America has realised that they are losing massively. I’m a Warmachine player and the scoring is quite different there.  You need a 5 point lead on your opponent to win, which means so long as you’re scoring you can drag the game out and catch up.  That doesn’t work in MCP.  it’s first to 16, no matter how much the other side is scoring.  Captain America abandons his post to try and stop the enemy from scoring, and maybe help reclaim some Fragments.  he misses his attacks though.

Ultron flipped his card at the start of the turn, becoming dazed and useless.  he dropped his Fragment, but Black Widow grabbed it and ran back to camp with Red Skull and Zemo.  iron man ran forward to try and help Captain America stop the enemy from scoring, but it was too little too late and the dice were against them.

At the end of the round Team America score 1 terminal, and 2 fragments.  team Skull score 2 terminals and 3 fragments.  That’s 10 to 14.  Skull just needs 1 point to win.  there’s not much that can be done to stop them.

End of round 3: Team Captain America 10, Team Red Skull 14End of round 3: Team Captain America 10, Team Red Skull 14

Everyone went all in, but there wasn’t much that could be done. it even got worse.  Doc Ock went down after being hit by a car, and Black Widow stole his Fragment.  Captain America, Red Skull and Spiderman got dazed/flipped.  Iron man ran in and reclaimed Captain Americas Fragment before anyone else could get it.  Ultron grabbed Red Skull’s fragment.

Team America had 1 Fragment and controlled 1 terminal, scoring 2.  Team Skull had 4 fragments and controlled 1 terminal, scoring 5.  That’s 12-19 in favour of Team Red Skull

End of round 4 and the game: Team Captain America 12, Team Red Skull 19End of round 4 and the game: Team Captain America 12, Team Red Skull 19

So that was fun.  I’d prefer to have a second person there so we could go again and I could focus more on one side and one set of cards.  Another time.

Playing that taught me this is much more of a sports game than a war game, only there isn’t one ball.  There were 9, and 4 of them couldn’t move.  It’s got much more in common with Guild Ball than Warmachine.  I look forward to getting some games in and trying to play it more like a sportball game.

 

While I had everything out I set up a bust table to show off everything I’d done since the start of the project and to see what a full busy table I can build would look like.

South Point View

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Back in February 4Ground / Tymeagain had a competition to win a £100 voucher.  With everything built I finally know what I need.  A good solid size 5 centrepiece, and it’s just arrived in the post.  This retails at about £130.  I think it’s going to take a while to build, what with glue drying times.  It’s no longer on their website so I guess I got the last one.

The pen is for scale scale.  This thing is about the size and weight of a ream of paper

South Point View
South Point View
Stock image (Lifted of an old BoW news article as it's not in their store anymore)Stock image (Lifted of an old BoW news article as it's not in their store anymore)

South Point View Complete

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Diablo 4 came out about the same time this arrived and ate up all my free time, but I finally made a start on this project.  I’ve built other MDF kits before (2 paint racks, the Gloomhaven box inserts and a couple of basic uncoloured buildings) so I had some idea of how this was going to go: Apply some PVA, walk away for a few hours while it dries, come back for the next stage, repeat until done.  Looking at the store photos I assumed this was going to be 2 boxes, 4 walls and a roof each.  A quick and simple build.

WRONG!

Simple!  How laughable.  I’ve always thought 4Ground terrain was too expensive.  It looks great, but £130 for 2 boxes that make up one piece of terrain?  That’s insane.  I get it now.  These kits are on a par with Gundam model kits and high end gaming pieces.  Building 4ground terrain pieces could be a hobby in itself.  I’m not saying it was hard, or overly complicated.  It was detailed and had lots and lots of parts.  There were 8 sides of instructions for it.  It’s so detailed each window is made of 6 parts (not including the wall) and the first half page of instruction is on building a window.

Eight sides of instructions, and acetate windows!Eight sides of instructions, and acetate windows!
All the leftover sprues at the end of the project.  That's a lot of wood!All the leftover sprues at the end of the project. That's a lot of wood!

I started work Thursday evening after work.  I’d apply some glue, then go run a few dungeons in Diablo 4 while the glue dried.  I got 2-3 building cycles in on Thursday and Friday evenings, and continued this across the whole of the weekend.  It did take the whole weekend to build it, and the glue was still drying when I went to be on Sunday.  It may have taken longer than it needed to as I was easily distracted by Diablo 4 (Spoiler: Diablo is currently not in Diablo 4.  At least, I’ve not found him).  If I was building another I could see ways to speed it up if I had table space to work.  I could do all the windows at once, if not be working on all 6 sections (2 storeys and 2 roofs) at once.  That would require a lot of flat space though.  I don’t think I have enough I can free up for a whole weekend.

It’s all built now and I quite enjoyed the process.  Here’s some extra bits I did not stated in the instructions for anyone doing something similar

  • Lay down a ground sheet.  You’re gonna drip glue everywhere.  Put down some newspaper to catch it, and put down some newspaper under that so when the glue soaks through it sticks to the second sheet and not your table
  • I ran a line of PVA straight from the bottle alone the inside corner anywhere two walls or a wall and floor joined together.  This will provide extra strength.  Also, PVA shrinks as it dries so it might even help pull everything together
  • One of the storeys does not have a ceiling or floor to provide structural integrity to the walls.  To help prevent them from collapsing I took some old MDF sprue and glued that in to the corners after doing the above step.  Hopefully this will add some strength.
  • However much glue you think this will need, it’ll need more.  I’ve had the same 500ml bottle of PVA for years.  I use it for basing minis.  I’ve never  noticed the volume drop.  I could feel it getting lighter all the time.  I’d squeeze enough out to brush on for the current step only to find out I needed 4 times as much as I thought.  There’s still plenty in my bottle, but if you’re running low have a spare bottle on standby before starting a project like this
The scale on this is good for MCP.  I though tit might be a bit small as it says its 28mm, and I believe MCP is built more towards 40mm.  It looks right though.The scale on this is good for MCP. I though tit might be a bit small as it says its 28mm, and I believe MCP is built more towards 40mm. It looks right though.
South Point View Complete
South Point View Complete

They said it was 360mm tall.  I thought that’s barely bigger than a full size ruler.  Not that big at all.  In reality It’s about 380mm tall and it feels a lot bigger.  This thing is huge.  It also comes apart in to 4 separate levels.  This means you could spread it round the table as the footprint for multiple buildings if you needed that.  It wouldn’t look 100% authentic.  You could definitely split it in to two building and no on would notice.

 

That’s this project done.  I’ve built and painted everything I currently expect to get for this.  I hope to one day get in a few games and then I might come back once I’ve bought more stuff.  Until then, this project is complete.

South Point View Complete
South Point View Complete
All the sections it splits down in to.  Much easier to store and transport, and can also be used to fill out a table as single storey buildings if i wantedAll the sections it splits down in to. Much easier to store and transport, and can also be used to fill out a table as single storey buildings if i wanted