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Collins Does Star Wars Legion

Collins Does Star Wars Legion

Project Blog by collins

Recommendations: 186

About the Project

This project is all about me documenting my journey through painting my Star Wars Legion models. I'll explain the steps I take, the paints I use, any conversions I do and also other cool stuff I've found out there that I like or am inspired by. Although some of this painting was done for my FLGS (Friendly Local Gaming Store) most of it is for me and my own enjoyment. Im not brilliant but I am certainly happy with the results I get, I just wish it didn't take so long!

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Token storage solutions

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As this is an FFG game there are literally a thousand tokens to store, tidy, and organise!

there are many ways of doing this. All they from just ignoring the problem and putting it into a big baggy up to making your own solution.

I went half way between and found a ditty box at hobbycraft for a few pounds (in a sale).

i think it’s this one

Ahhh! A nice sense of order! (Until Boba releases with new tokens)Ahhh! A nice sense of order! (Until Boba releases with new tokens)

Small Deployable Shield Generator

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I saw someone (sorry, can’t find the original maker as there are so many of these now) make one of these on Facebook and he encourages other to make these too as its a great bit of scatter terrain.

We’ve all seen the battle for Hoth and how the shield generator was a big strategic target and plot device for the Empire. Well, as we found out in Star Wars Rebels (TV cartoon series) these do come in many different sizes. Well this idea works off of the idea of a smaller localised protection.

The chap who discovered these originally is a genius. He spotted that Hubba-Bubba plastic clamshell wrappers look sort of similar to the bigger shield generator on Hoth.

Anyway, go to your local supermarket and buy yourself two wrappers for 90p each. The bonus with this terrain project is that you get some bubblegum to eat while you work.

Cut your wrappers into halves and pad out the middle sections with cutouts of toilet rollCut your wrappers into halves and pad out the middle sections with cutouts of toilet roll
Find a suitable base (plasticard for example) and use superglue to secure it all. I used a gel type.Find a suitable base (plasticard for example) and use superglue to secure it all. I used a gel type.
add scatter to your base. I used sand.add scatter to your base. I used sand.
Paint and FlockPaint and Flock

I primed in black.

Then used my standard Mechanicus Standard Grey Base, Russ and Fenrisian Grey and Necron Compound drybrushes.

Finally a Nuln Oil wash.

The sand was painted Steel Legion Drab and Terminatus Stone drybrush just like all my other models

I then sealed using matt varnish and once dry flocked using the same 5 ingredients as everything else.

Really Really simple and all thanks to a random on facebook!

A Recent Battle

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I met up with a friend and had a game of Legion on a new board and scenery. We had a great time but I feel the need to show you with photographs what happened.

Firstly the lists

Rebels List

  • Luke Skywalker (Force Reflexes, Jedi Mind Trick, Targeting Scope) 186

  • Leia Organa (Commanding Presense, Environmental Gear)

  • Fleet Troopers (Extra Man, Scatter gun, Environmental gear) 81

  • 4x Rebel Trooper Squads (Z6 Gatling Gun, Environmental Gear) 4x 65

  • 2x ATRT (Rotary Blaster) 2x 85

Imperial List

  • Note: I didn't record this fully, might not be wholly accurate.

  • General Veers (targeting scopes, commanding presence) 90

  • Speeder Bikes 90

  • ATST (Weiss, Twin Light Blaster, Grenade Launcher, Mortar) 250

  • Snowtroopers (extra man, flamer, grenades, targeting scopes) 91

  • 3x Stormtrooper Squads (DLT-19, extra man) 3x 79

  • Stormtrooper Squad 44

The battle site was a new desert mat and some buildings from battlefront.The battle site was a new desert mat and some buildings from battlefront.

Here are a few shots of the early stages of the battle using my new Endor theme Luke.

The battle was done using the brand new Priority Supplies mission objectives. Minefield, sabotage the moisture vaporators and the big L shape deployment zones.

It all started well, Leia was running around doing her thing of protecting everyone from themselves (free dodges for everyone! Dodges for days!) Luke was doing his thing of running up to the closest big thing and chopping it up when close enough and the troopers did their thing of getting killed. Sadly the ATRTs had been poorly deployed (or expertly avoided by my opponent) and didn’t have any real targets.

Then when the close quarters battle started it was led by the Snowtroopers (or close assault troops as they should be called in this game lol). They had suffered a few casualties early in the game through the minefields around the board. But then they got a bit too close to a forward rebel trooper squad…. oh dear! brown trouser time!

Before the attackBefore the attack

This attack comprised of 5 black dice (from the flamer) and 3 black dice (from grenades) and they had an aim token.

8 Black with 3 re-rolls against 1 dodge and white defence die.

Oh God, we’re dead!

Where has my squad gone!!! somebody ordered a BBQ Where has my squad gone!!! somebody ordered a BBQ

Priority Supplies

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Priority Supplies

With the release of the priority supplies boxed set i sat and scratched my head as to why… I can build terrain, get a friend to 3D print it etc and it cost me nothing! Why would I pay £24 for minor terrain? Cards… damn you FFG!!! It released a number of new battlefield cards and it was at that point insuddenly realised that that my games had started to become a bit repetitive. Very similar lists (limited by the models released to date, this is soon to be rectified!) playing very similar objective games. This box helps solve that a little but also can give a warhammer table that Star Wars look.

with regards to painting these it was very simple and completed over 2 x 1 hour painting sessions. The base was black primer, then mechanicus standard grey heavily dry brushed. Then sucessivly lighter drybrushes of Russ and Fenrisian grey then necron compound. Afterwards a nuln oil wash and a bit of dirt detailing done with typhus corrosion.

a similar thing occurred for the orange box but started with Tau Light Ocre and Agrax Earthshade wash.

Priority Supplies

Blending in to the Forest Moon of Endor...

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As a continuation of my poncho’d Skywalker project for hobby night live I have now been able to paint him.

Primed in Army Painter Army Green. His under clothes were painted in the black scheme used for Vader (Russ Grey and Fenrisian Grey highlight washed Nuln Oil) and the Poncho and helmet were painted in the same fashion as the rebel troopers (dab on Biel-Tan Green and Agrax Earthshade shades and then shade with Athonian Camoshade)

The lightsabre is done with a base of white and then successive layers of Waywatcher Green glaze. The glaze was also added to the surrounding areas of clothing, hands, helmet, face and sections of the base to try and give a bit of OSL effect. the highlights on the face and helmet were pressed really high (bright) as this glaze does darken things slightly.

Fly Swatting!

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If you remember back to BOW 1.0 you might remember that I have painted up an airspeeder (I will add that to this project when I can remember what I did). Well, a friend of mine with a 3D printer found a file on thingyverse of a downed speeder. maybe this

I PVA’d sand onto the base to help cover up the print lines and primed it in black.

I then Steel Legion Drab’d the sand, Celestra Greyed the speeder body, Mechanicus Standard Grey the engine bits and Macragge Blue the windows.

I then used two washes, black on the engine bits and Agrax Earthshade on the body for light dirt weathering. Once that had dried I sponged on Warplock Bronze to break up the rest of the big panels.

Once that was all dry I then took Typus Corrosion and added streak marks and heavy weathering inside the light weathing.

I then completed the base using my previously documented method.

from start to end this took two hours, not including drying time.

An Endor strike team needs Jedi support! Hobby Night Live July '18

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I got hold of a load of models cheap from a friend who doesn’t like rebels.

I was chatting with friends and it we came up with an amazing idea for what to do with my now spare Luke Skywalker! Change his head for a helmeted rebel head and then somehow attempt to make a poncho with green stuff.

it should be mentioned that I have never used green stuff for anything other than filling gaps.

The first thing I did was search the spare models for a male head that was helmeted and looked vaguely like Luke.

turns out the only one that does is the ATRT driver. :/

So then it was down to mr choppy the scapel to behead both volunteers and the king stick the superglue to put them back together again

An Endor strike team needs Jedi support! Hobby Night Live July '18

Ive laid strong plastic bag out on the table and taped it down as thats what the internet said to do… it stops sticking apparently when combined with lots of water. turns out, they were right! I rolled out the green stuff into a very thin sheet and cut it to a rectangle and made a slit in the middle for the head and then drapped it over Baby Vader (who by ROTJ was definitely close to becoming a Baby Vader)

NAILED IT!NAILED IT!

Ive then started to make folds and creases using super cheap plastic palette knives.

It should be noted that the arms have not been glued in at this point.

Ive then started to add more folds and finer detail. This took time and was a bit frustrating but actually quite enjoyable until I then fat fingers touched it leaving my finger prints all over it!

a bit of water and feathering and it was all back flat again.

Ive  also sculpted in a hood and belt and final touches after gluing in the arms.

The sculpting is done! just got to wait for it to dry and cure now ready for painting!

Now princess, we shall discuss the location of your hidden rebel base....

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Played a game tonight which ended in a draw with an old friend.

i played as the heroic freedom fighters against the oppressive boot of laminate armoured devils

my list was

3 squads of rebel troopers with grenades, z6, extra trooper and environmental gear.

1 squad of fleet troopers with grenade, scatter gun, extra trooper and environmental gear

2 atrt with rotary blasters to see how effective they actually were

luke with Jedi mind trick, free dodge card and scope for his lightsabre

leia with guardian, range 4 command and environmental gear

it was a very swinging game and I felt I needed more men, perhaps if I reduced bulk of unit size to make 1 extra unit would have been useful. I missed not having anti tank weapons besides Luke when the atst was wrecking my infantry but the atrt were handing out a few good crits.

All the models I painted for the FLGS in aldershot All the models I painted for the FLGS in aldershot

This princess doesn’t need protection

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The latest models the have been painted are Leia and the fleet troopers.

I’m quite happy with Leia and not so happy with the fleet troopers. I’m not so unhappy to actually want to do anything about it yet though but that niggle will get to me in the end I’m sure.

Leia’s outfit is missing the camouflage smock so she stands out quite a lot.

I started by trying to figure out what colours I wanted to use for the two blues in her outfit. I decided the lighter paler blue of her trousers was similar to hoeth blue and for her jacket which is darker I went with thunderhawk blue.

Once that was decided I primed Leia in white and but down the base colours. In addition to the above I used mechanicus standard grey for the boots, belt and pistol. The pistol was then dry brushed necron silver as usual. For her shirt I decided tallarn sand was a close enough match.

during the wash stage agrax was used on the brown areas, nuln oil on the grey area and then I used a heavily watered down drankenhof nightshade wash on the blue areas. In the end I put two or three layers of this on the blue areas to get the level of shade I wanted, better this way than put it on neat and have to start over again.

Once the washes were done each area was highlighted back up. Again this is a simple scheme to meet the tabletop standard I’ve chosen to meet. Not top work but works for me for this game!

This princess doesn’t need protection

Now, having decided I was happy with Leia I have to say I’m a bit meh with the job I did on these guys. Didn’t help that when I varnished them some of the guns and feet misted up, urgh!

The trousers I think are also a disappointment, I went with karak stone with a sepia wash and it hasn’t come out grey enough. Perhaps a diluted nuln oil would have been a better choice.

The blue I went with is hoeth and the same diluted wash used on Leia.

i won’t go into anymore detail about these guys until I either redo them or come to terms with my muck up.

i will however prempt the ‘where’s Captain Antilles?’ Questions. I decided not to single out the squad leader for such a lofty position as corvette captain. This guy is more ‘Dave from D rota’ as he is only leading a few people rather than the whole crew of the Tantive IV

You know it’s all about that base

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My typical legion baseMy typical legion base

So let’s talk about the basing (finally! I hear you say)

I base everything using PVA and sand. It then gets primed in whatever primer I’m using for the model (obviously this differs). The first base paint is watered down Steel Legion Drab. Usually two coats to get a good coverage. Then I lightly drybrush over Terminatus Stone.

If the model is a vehicle and has an arc of fire i then add a little Agrax Earthshade to the arc recess as a pin wash. I find it subtle enough to stand out for gaming use but not so much it looks stupid.

I then add 5 types of basing material to each base… because you know, I’m a mad man.

I PVA the base in a random fashion and never cover the whole thing or cover the fire arcs. I then sprinkle on some mini rocks in groups. These rocks are called ballast and are from the model train world. Then sprinkle on some Moss Green flock from army painter and then dunk The model in grass green flock to cover the remainder of the PVA.

When all that has had a chance to settle I then add a home made foam clump foliage and some Mordheim Turf from citadel. The lime of the turf and the dark green of the clump contrast nicely on the tabletop, if not in the picture.

All my models got this treatment. The ones I painted for the FLGS didn’t get the turf and extra rocks though.

Basing productsBasing products

I finally hit that painting PLOG wall...

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The final thing from the core box was the 8 barricades.

These are super easy and the steps are as follows

Prime in uniform grey from army painter

Drybrush Russ Grey

Drybrush Fenresian Grey

Drybrush Necron Compound

Wash Nuln oil

Wash the bottom Athonian Camoshade (to make it look grimey)

Add Typus Corrosion in streak marks and to the bottom to make it look like water and dirt have been collecting in those areas

finally add some of the black/bronze mix from the ATRT dabbed on using a sponge to replicate battle damage, scorch marks and general pitting.

Not including drying time of the washes, if you spend more than 30-40 minutes on these then you’re investing too much time in my opinion. They are really that fast to do as as you can see, look great!

I finally hit that painting PLOG wall...

Vader and BabyVader have unresolved family issues

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So to finish off the models i painted the two leaders from the core set.

I started with Luke.

Most of his jumpsuit was painted with Celestra Grey, washed with a Lamian Medium diluted Nuln Oil and Athonian camoshade mix. Then highlighted with Celestra Grey again.

The skin was painted with Cadian Fleshtone, washed with Reikland Fleshtone then highlighted Cadian Fleshtone and Kislev Flesh.

the boots were painted Mechanicus Standard Grey and the washed Nuln then highlighted Mechanicus again.

The belt and holster were painted Mournfang Brown, washed Agrax Earthsafe then highlighted Mournfang again.

You’ll note that this is quite simple and easy, some may say lazy. And they’d be right, but I’m happy with this scheme and it didn’t take me too long to do either. win win for me i feel!

The lightsabre is the cool bit IMO. I painted it white so i had a fresh base to start with. I then made a super thin glaze out of Lahmian Medium and Baharoth Blue. This takes lot of mixing. I then (mentally) broke the lightsabre into 4 sections lengthways. I then painted the opposites the light blue glaze in very thin layers so that it gradually got stronger in the middle of the blue section.

When happy with the lightsabre i then went on to add blue glaze to the model and base to give a little object light source effect.

When the model had been varnished I put gloss varnish on the lightsabre to enhance the shiny bright special laser sword

After Pukey Lukey i painted Daddy Vader.

He was primed Black and then i tried to zenethal highlight him with spray cans… It turned out to be more work than it was worth. I wouldn’t be doing it again until i get an airbrush.

For the most part all the highlights were done before washing this time.

All these highlights were done using Russ Grey and the top highlights done with Fenrisian Grey.

The chest plate had a few colour put on it, compared to the movies and picked appropriate colours. Mostly red, green and grey.

Vaders lightsabre was done in the same fashion as Luke’s except i used Bloodletter Red Glaze. Including putting glaze on vader and the ground to make it look a bit like its giving off light.

When varnished I added Gloss Varnish to the sabre, helmet, shoulder armour and the shinpads.

Again, a simple scheme but i feel its effective. The light sabre is the focal point and takes a lot of the attention.

Rebellions are built on hope.... hope of rolling zero blanks

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After i’d effectively tested out by rebel paint scheme on the ATRT i cracked on the with rest.

These geezers will form the core of your army so you’ll get a lot of enjoyment out of making a good job of them.

They were primed army painter army green spray paint.

The guns were all painted mechanicus standard grey and then drybrush necron compound.

boots and bandoliers we painted Mournfang Brown

the gaiters/spats, selected jackets, helmets and gloves were painted using Steel Legion Drab

the backpacks and helmet bands were painted using Castellan Green.

After all the base colours are down the cool camo pattern occurs. I used two washed, Agrax Earthshade and Biel-Tan Green to block it out. Basically i put lots of splodges of the shade on the base green areas of clothing in a random pattern. if they overlap, fine, if they don’t, also fine. The objective is to make it represent a camo pattern and thankfully we don’t need to faithfully replicate a real pattern and then break it.

Once the camo pattern was dry i used Agrax Earthshade on the brown parts of the model (mainly clothes and boots), Athonian Camoshade on the green and camo areas (clothes and backpack) and Nuln Oil on the guns.

The faces were based, Cadian Fleshtone. Washed Reikland Fleshshade then highlighted with Cadian Fleshtone and Kislev Flesh. Beards were added in different colours with Agrax being the general shade for them with exception to white beards which were washed with a thinned Druchii Violet.

The Duros (alien) head was painted using Sotek Green and then washed using a thinned Drakenhof Nightshade. Although a Coelia Greenshade would probably have been a better choice.

I realised that ive forgotten to tell you all about how i protect the models. Army Painter matt spray varnish. Done. (although don’t use it when its hot, cold, wet, dry, windy, inside or  outside… spray varnish is finikerty stuff.  Normal not rainy weather in the UK will be fine)

Stompin' all over the place

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I tackled the ATRT next.

When you build this badboy i highly recommend investing in some tiny neodynium (rare earth) magnets. 1×3 mm ones will be the best/closest option. They are cheap and easy to obtain when a Google search is employed (for those of you who are violently allergic to Amazon or eBay – understandable). You’ll still need to drill the hole in the ATRT’s chin slightly but it will then allow you to swap out the weapon options to suit your needs and counter the local meta.

A word on list building this. Assuming you did magnetise you can make your lists up on the fly, lucky you! if not, you really need to think about it a bit more. I recently asked the facebook masses for their options and was VERY surprised by the result i got.  The options are:

Rotary Blaster – Range 1-3 – 5 Black – 30 points

Laser Cannon – Range 2-4 – 1 Red, 2 Black – 35 points

Flame thrower – Range 1 – 2 Black x # of targets – 25 points

Initially I highly rate the Laser and Flamer. Very clear defined roles, one kills tanks, one kills troops.  I can get on board with that. my favourite is the laser due to the extra range. the round one shots on tanks can be very useful.

But then it turns out the internet disagreed with me. the WWW loves the blaster. More dice but less range but with surge for crit generally a higher chance on damage on unarmoured units. When you do the maths it’s hard to argue against the fact that in the long run the blaster is the GPMG tool here and thus potentially more useful. It really does depend on what you’re likely to face. going against ATST by the thousand, take the cannon, fighting the imperial guard, astra militarum endless waves of imperial troops take the flamer but in a tourney where you dont know, perhaps take that blaster and spend those extra points on some grenades somewhere.

Anyway, onto the painting! All the rebels were primed in army green spray by army painter. I then dry brushed over a heavy layer of elysian green and then a light layer of ogryn camo. This leaves you with a lime green walker! I then picked out all the enginey bits and pistons for a coat of leadbelcher.

Cool unit markings were the next thing. I started by adding a rebel symbol (called a starbird) and then gave him a nickname, Stompy, written in aurebesh

The model was then given two washes, nuln oil for the metal parts and athonian camoshade for everything that was green.

after that came battledamage and rusting. I think i went a little overboard on this so tone it down when you do it. I took black and warplock bronze mix and a sponge torn to an irregular shape. dab in paint, dab on waste paper, dab on model near edges or areas of high likely damage (feet, armour plates etc). Then repeat with an orange, i used jokaero orange, but do it very sparsely!

Once the walker is done you can paint the rider just like the rebel troopers (coming next!) and base like everything else (coming not next)

Get that Va Va ZOOOOM!

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In a bid to keep the project rolling I cracked on with the Speeder Bikes. You probably saw already that i based them alongside the stormtroopers (and everything else), standard PVA and sand then quicken the drying time on a radiator if you want.

When you build these models (a bit fiddly) be very aware that the flight stand only fits into the model one way and given the game mechanics it is possible to muck it up and be eternally frustrated with yourself. I would recommend not gluing the rider to the bike until you’ve painted them separately, makes life a bit easier.

That then lets you prime the bikes and riders separately. I primed the riders using army painter white just like the stormtroopers and bikes and base in army painters fur brown. Having done this i’d say it isn’t a necessity to go out and buy a different colour primer, but i found it speeds up my painting time and I am fortunate enough to have enough disposable income to be able to afford extra primers (i have no children!). Big tip! mask the flight stand so it doesn’t lose its clarity during priming, use sellotape, masking tape, blue tac (poster putty), heathens souls or even your wife’s favourite teddy. Anything! I always think its a shame that we’re provided with clear flight stands to help make models look like they’re flying and then people end up priming them and ruining that look.

The riders were painted following the same rules as the stormtroopers, just with a lot more grey used as their armour is sparse. I won’t go into more detail as ill just repeat myself.

The bikes can be completed very quickly. I didn’t go into too much detail on them. I basically painted them mournfang brown for the main body and front fins, leadbelcher for the front frame pylon thingys, handle bars, engine bits at the rear end and weapons. The leading edges of the fins and front end of the bikes were then drybrushed with necron compound to show a little wear and tear.

Then two washes were used, nuln oil on the metal areas and agrax earthshade on the main body of the bike. very simple.

The final touches were random colours for the control panel buttons etc and another light drybrush of the necron compound on the leading edges to give a freshen up to the wear and tear.

The final touches were the basing. Again to be covered at a later date.

The speeder bikes are very simple and quick to paint but also super effective on the tabletop, consider using at least 2 units and maybe even 3!

Only Imperial stormtroopers are so precise...

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I broke out the stormtroopers and attacked them first as I knew exactly how I was going to paint them. White, obviously!

Most of the troopers went together well with no problems. I cut a few of the lugs to make fitting a bit easier but I wouldn’t suggest this needs doing to all of them or really any of them. Dry fit them first to see what you thin when you get round to it.

A word on glue for these models. Use superglue! poly-cement will not work as the type of plastic is not compatible at a chemical level (science yo!)

When gluing I highly recommend using a knife to scratch a hash # pattern. I have made a picture with how to make a really strong bond with superglue (using an Imperial Assault model but the same method). If you follow the pictures you should never have a superglue bond break. The reason for this is the cut marks given the glue something to key into (or grip). Flat on flat just doesn’t bond as well.

Once built the stormtroopers were based using PVA glue and sand liberated from a beach. I had to leave the sand sat on a radiator for the best part of a week to dry it out enough for it to be useable but it was free so swings and roundabouts I guess.

When dry they were primed white using an Army Painter rattle can. Some people don’t like these as they can be grainy and leave an uneven surface but I don’t mind that. They way I see it is it gives a good surface for the paint to bind to.

The base colours were very simple, mechanicus standard grey for the gaps in armour, eyes, eyebrows and the guns. The guns were then dry brushed using necron compound.

The next stage was very easy… wash those troopers in nuln oil.

Now onto the time consuming section. I took some ceramite white, watered it down a little on my palette and painted back in all the armour plating being careful to keep it out of the recesses or edges of the armour plates. This gives it a really good clean, sharp and striking look. It can be toned down later if you like but I chose not to.

finally the bases were painted using steel legion drab and then dry brushed using terminatus stone. Later I’ll explain the flock and foliage I’ve been adding to them to bring them to life and make it a bit more interesting!

A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away...

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On release day I trundled on down to me FLGS and paid my latest taxation tribute to the almighty Fantasy Flight Games in exchange for all of the new Star Wars toys!

I’d come to an arrangement with my FLGS to paint their demo copy but that didn’t stop me from spending all of the money on toys my wife said I didn’t need but I definitely did need!

One of the bags on the way home!One of the bags on the way home!

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