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Guild Ball Hunter’s Guild by Lawnor

Guild Ball Hunter’s Guild by Lawnor

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Project Blog by lawnor Cult of Games Member

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About the Project

A start to end view of my work on the complete Hunters Guild for Guild Ball. I will try to make this as detailed and informative as I can (I do have a habit of getting caught up and forgetting to photograph steps). I like following guides and tutorials so lets see if others can use this as one when I'm done.

This Project is Completed

Bear Fur for Seenah

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I had a couple of hours only to paint last night so I went for a quick simple paint job I could complete in that time.  I’ll save the bigger jobs for the weekend.

I’ve been painting werewolves and dogs for my Circle Orboros force for years now so I know how to paint brown fur, but a new faction is an opportunity to try a new method and get different results so I went looking online and I found this video.  My works are based on this, but I didn’t have his paints so I swapped some out, and chose not to go for the bright tufts he used.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxvL-r6g7-I

Here’s the paints and steps in order

Base coat P3 Umbral Umber

Drybrush P3 Gun Corps Brown all over

Drybrush VMC 70.843 Cork Brown everywhere but the dark undersides

Mix VMC Cork Brown and P3 Mouldy Ochre together.  Be warned that Mouldy Ochre will take over this mix so only add a tiny amount to begin with.  You want this to remain brown, not yellow.  Drybrush on the regions you want highlighted.

Mix in some P3 Jack Bone or any bone.  Use this to enhance the highlights

Dilute a little MSP 09253 Flesh Wash (Or vallejo Skin ink if you have it) with water and apply gently to the darker areas.  You don’t want this to dry in a visible way.  You want it to make the brown feel a little red at some angles, but not look red.  I also chose to encourage this to pool in the eyes and ears to give them more of a fleshy feel once dry.  The eyes and ears got 3 coats in the end.

Mix P3 Brown in, water and mixing medium and use this to add shadow to any recesses and along the edges where things sit against the fur.  The video talks about adding more layers of darker shading but I have chosen to leave it at this for now.  perhaps I will revisit and go further as the model develops?

I also added a couple of washes of GW Carroburg Crimson inside the mouth.  its a fast and lazy way of colouring tongues etc if the inside has preshading, or even just flesh tones.  Splashing a little over the gums/lips can also enhance the appearance sometimes.  The teeth will be taken care of later.

PrimedPrimed
Even coat of P3 Umbral umberEven coat of P3 Umbral umber
Drybrush P3 Gun Corps BrownDrybrush P3 Gun Corps Brown
Drybrush VMC Cork BrownDrybrush VMC Cork Brown
Drybrush VMC Cork Brown / P3 Mouldy Ochre mixDrybrush VMC Cork Brown / P3 Mouldy Ochre mix
Drybrush VMC Cork Brown / P3 Mouldy Ochre / P3 Jack Bone mixDrybrush VMC Cork Brown / P3 Mouldy Ochre / P3 Jack Bone mix
Selective glaze / wash with MSP Flesh WashSelective glaze / wash with MSP Flesh Wash
Shadows added with P3 Brown inkShadows added with P3 Brown ink
GW Carroburg Crimson wash to colour the mouthGW Carroburg Crimson wash to colour the mouth
Here's all the steps side by side.  I imagine you can't see the difference between all the stages, but some of them are meant to be subtleHere's all the steps side by side. I imagine you can't see the difference between all the stages, but some of them are meant to be subtle

I’m calling the bear fur done now, but as the model comes together I might revisit and add more shading to it.  if the fur ends up looking too highlighted I can give it a wash with GW Agrax Earthshade to bring it back down.

All being well I should have a couple of hours free tonight so I will likely switch to a different model.  I’m thinking skin tones next  Most of the humans have a generic white skin tone, but Skatha wants a pale tone (I’m thinking Cryx Pallid pink flesh), Zarola will be getting a coat of Foundry’s African Skin tones, and Ulfr is an odd one.  No one is quite sure what his skin tones are supposed to be, but he’s a wildling beserker type and I’m told he is a werewolf.  I’m thinking I’ll borrow from my Circle Orboros techniques and paint him like a Tharn.  Everyone else will be getting the MSP flesh tones I’ve been using recently, but that’s a job for the weekend.  Tonight I’ll likely attack the single model flesh tones.

If anyone has any ideas for white winter wolf fur please speak up.  I’ve done white fur 3 times so far, and I’ve never been as happy with the results as I’d like and I do have the wolf, “Snow” to come.

Flesh Tones - Skatha's Pallid Flesh

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In the art Skatha is portrayed as much more pale than the rest of the guild so I decided to go with the Cryx Pallid Flesh recipe.  She also has white hair and given my priming scheme means she already has most of the work done on her hair i started there.  I covered up any obvious black showing with more of the Grey primer (It is almost white).  The hair was then given a wash of P3 Frostbite, and I carefully drybrush the hair white and called it done.

P3 Paints used for Flesh:

Beaten Purple

Carnal Pink

Menoth White Highlight

Ryn Flesh

Traitor Green

Trollblood Highlight

Base coat was a mix of Carnal Pink, Ryn Flesh and Trollblood HighlightBase coat was a mix of Carnal Pink, Ryn Flesh and Trollblood Highlight
This was given a wash of the base with some Traitor GreenThis was given a wash of the base with some Traitor Green
The next wash had beaten Purple added to the previous mix and focused a little more on the deeper areas and recessesThe next wash had beaten Purple added to the previous mix and focused a little more on the deeper areas and recesses
She was then highlighted with a thinned mix of Ryn Flesh, Carnal Pink, and Menoth White HighlightShe was then highlighted with a thinned mix of Ryn Flesh, Carnal Pink, and Menoth White Highlight

Flesh Tones - Ulfr

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Ulfr is also portrayed as being clearly different but as Steamforged have such an undefined nature to their art style I wasn’t sure what he was supposed to look like. He is a wildling beserker and I hear a werewolf so I ended up going with the Circle Orboros Tharn Flesh scheme.

P3 paints used:

Battledress Green

Gun Corps Brown

Midlund Flesh

Ryn Flesh

Skorne Red

Thornwood Green

Ulfr was based with a mix of Midlund Flesh and Gun Corps Brown, keeping the mix more flesh than brown.Ulfr was based with a mix of Midlund Flesh and Gun Corps Brown, keeping the mix more flesh than brown.
He was washed all over with a wash made from the base mixed with Skorne RedHe was washed all over with a wash made from the base mixed with Skorne Red

Battledress Green and Thornwood Green were added to the above wash and this was only applied to the recesses and shaded areas.  I forgot to take a picture here apparently.

Highlights were applied using a thinned mix of Gun Corps Brown and Ryn FleshHighlights were applied using a thinned mix of Gun Corps Brown and Ryn Flesh
Final highlights were applied with thinned Ryn Flesh.  later on, the inside of the mouth was given a couple of washes of GW Caroburg Crimson.Final highlights were applied with thinned Ryn Flesh. later on, the inside of the mouth was given a couple of washes of GW Caroburg Crimson.

Flesh Tones - Zarola's African Skin

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I recently received the Foundry Paints African Paint Scheme in an AssetDrop box and this seemed like a good time to test it out.  The pictures will not be the best due to the pose of the model and the darkness of the colour.

The model was based with African Flesh Shade, and then highlighted with African Flesh.  I also put the base tone over the hair as I figured if it tinted whatever colour I put up there later that might be good.The model was based with African Flesh Shade, and then highlighted with African Flesh. I also put the base tone over the hair as I figured if it tinted whatever colour I put up there later that might be good.
She was further highlighted with African Flesh LightShe was further highlighted with African Flesh Light
Army Painter Strong Tone wash was then applied to the deeper recesses and used to provide shade wherever her clothing mightArmy Painter Strong Tone wash was then applied to the deeper recesses and used to provide shade wherever her clothing might

Flesh Tones - Everyone Else

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I’ve grown to really like the Reaper Master Series flesh paints from the first AssetDrop box since I first used them on my Shadespire Khorne warriors so it’s what I’m using here.

The base colour was MSP 29823 Caucasian FleshThe base colour was MSP 29823 Caucasian Flesh
They were given a wash of MSP 09253 Flesh WashThey were given a wash of MSP 09253 Flesh Wash
The surface areas were reclaimed using the thinned base colourThe surface areas were reclaimed using the thinned base colour
They were highlighted with a thinned mix of the base colour and MSP 29824 Maiden FleshThey were highlighted with a thinned mix of the base colour and MSP 29824 Maiden Flesh
The final highlight was done with thinned Maiden FleshThe final highlight was done with thinned Maiden Flesh

Hair

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I did all the human hair at the same time, except for Skatha, who I had done with her flesh tones.

Hearne, Veteran Hearne and Chaska had a base coat of VMC Smoke.

Theron was base coated P3 Battlefield Brown

Egret was based with P3 Ember Orange

Ulfr and Zarola were base coated with VMC German Grey

Hair

The shade washes were as follows:

GW Nuln oil: Hearne, Vet Hearne, Ulfr, Chaska.  Zarola was given a gloss varnish and then nuln oil was only applied in the  recesses.

GW Seraphim Sepia: Egret.

Agrax Earthshade: Theron

Hair

The following paints were used as careful drybrush highlights:

P3 idrian Flesh: hearne, Vet Hearne, Theron, Chaska

P3 Ember Orange, then P3 Mouldy ochre: Egret

Trollblood Highlight: Ulfr

 

Zarola was not highlighted, just given a matt varnish.  I liked the way her hair looked as it was.

Hair

The Animals - Fur etc: Fahad, Snow, and Seenah

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I’m working towards painting the cloth so I wanted to get the fur done on the pets before hand as this would be air brush work for me and easier to do safely if I can cover the whole model without worry.  I started work with Fahad.  Another model it will be hard to see due to his dark colours.

Fahad was painted black and then airbrushed with VMC German Grey covering everything except the undersideFahad was painted black and then airbrushed with VMC German Grey covering everything except the underside
The previous colour had some VMC London Grey and this was used to highlight the model, focusing on the hips, shoulder, neck, head and paws.  The mix was lightened progressively to add increasing highlightThe previous colour had some VMC London Grey and this was used to highlight the model, focusing on the hips, shoulder, neck, head and paws. The mix was lightened progressively to add increasing highlight
GW Nuln Oil was then used as deep shade in crevices and along the edges of anything touching his skin to provide shade.  GW Caroburg Crimson was applied twice inside the mouth.GW Nuln Oil was then used as deep shade in crevices and along the edges of anything touching his skin to provide shade. GW Caroburg Crimson was applied twice inside the mouth.
Show was given a basecoat of P3 Frostbite to provide an icy feel to his shadingShow was given a basecoat of P3 Frostbite to provide an icy feel to his shading
He was then drybrushed white.  I returned with a wash made from P3 Frostbite and P3 underbelly blue applied just to the recesses and along the edges of the straps etc to provide shade, but apparently forgot to take a photo.He was then drybrushed white. I returned with a wash made from P3 Frostbite and P3 underbelly blue applied just to the recesses and along the edges of the straps etc to provide shade, but apparently forgot to take a photo.

The next colour I’m aiming for is the green.  Looking at Seenah he needs the bamboo frame of his armour and his tusks painting before I can do that.

The tusks were based with P3 Menoth White base...The tusks were based with P3 Menoth White base...
... and washed with a mix of GW Seraphim Sepia and water... and washed with a mix of GW Seraphim Sepia and water
They were drybrushed with Menoth White Base, and the ends were finally drybrushed with Menoth White HighlightThey were drybrushed with Menoth White Base, and the ends were finally drybrushed with Menoth White Highlight
The Bamboo was based with Vallejo Panzer Aces Old WoodThe Bamboo was based with Vallejo Panzer Aces Old Wood
It was washed with GW Agrax Earthshade and drybrushed with Menoth White Base and I just ran out of layout spaces.  Max of 12 apparently.It was washed with GW Agrax Earthshade and drybrushed with Menoth White Base and I just ran out of layout spaces. Max of 12 apparently.

Green Cloth & Ball

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My plan here was to follow one of the darker green recipes from Angel Giraldez’s Masterclass Vol 1 as I’ve learnt things from his books before and I take every opportunity to follow a new guide from there.  It did not go to plan.  Near the end he highlights from a dark green to a mint ice cream green and the change was too extreme for me.  When I tried to work with a mid tone green instead it refused to flow and dry as expected.  It was unusually hot for England and perhaps that had something to do with it?  I was left with tide marks and no transition between light and dark areas.  In the end I tried to glaze with the base colour over everything and this made it less extreme, but its still not how it was supposed to be.  I still have 236 models to paint though and lots more to buy so I’m keeping it as it is for now.

 

Paints Used

GW Nuln Oil

VMC highl ItalianT. Crew 331

VMC Italian Tankcrew 327

VMC Luftwaffe Cam. Green

VMC Military Green

Everything was given an even coat of VMC Military green.  This took 3ish coats and ended up super glossyEverything was given an even coat of VMC Military green. This took 3ish coats and ended up super glossy
Everything green was washed with GW Nuln OilEverything green was washed with GW Nuln Oil
The surfaces were highlighted/reclaimed using thinned VMC Luftwaffe Cam. GreenThe surfaces were highlighted/reclaimed using thinned VMC Luftwaffe Cam. Green
The guide called for the next highlight to be a thinned 1:2 mix of VMC highl ItalianT. Crew & VMC Italian Tankcrew 327 but that came out too extreme for me so I went for just the Italian Tank Crew.  It did not flow right.  I did some later edge/extreme highlighting using the 1:2 mixThe guide called for the next highlight to be a thinned 1:2 mix of VMC highl ItalianT. Crew & VMC Italian Tankcrew 327 but that came out too extreme for me so I went for just the Italian Tank Crew. It did not flow right. I did some later edge/extreme highlighting using the 1:2 mix
Given my dissatisfaction I tried to smooth things over with many layers of a glaze of the base colourGiven my dissatisfaction I tried to smooth things over with many layers of a glaze of the base colour
The ball was given 2-3 coats of VGC Black Green Ink.  It hasn't worked as well as the brown ink I used on the last ball, but it'll do.The ball was given 2-3 coats of VGC Black Green Ink. It hasn't worked as well as the brown ink I used on the last ball, but it'll do.

Clothing - Fur and Feathers

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I went with an old classic recipe with the fur from the Circle Orboros guides.  I started with a base coat of P3 Cryx Bane Highlight.  This was then given a wash of a mix of P3 Thornwood Green and p3 Beast Hide.  This was then drybrushed with P3 ‘Jack Bone.  It was highlighted with a p3 Menoth White highlight drybrush where appropriate.

The base coat and the washThe base coat and the wash
'Jack Bone Drybrush'Jack Bone Drybrush
Menoth White Highlight highlight (on OnTableTop)Menoth White Highlight highlight (on OnTableTop)

I wasn’t sure how to handle the feathers so I decided to paint them the same as the icy wolf fur.  I base coated them in P3 Frostbite and then washed where appropriate with a mix of Frostbite and p3 Underbelly Blue.  They were highlighted with a white drybrush.  I found I got the best result if I drybrushed from the top of the feathers towards the base.  it gave them a nicer pattern which probably won’t show up in the photos.

Fur?  Feathers?  I can't always decide what they're supposed to beFur? Feathers? I can't always decide what they're supposed to be
The final group show of all the fur/feather workThe final group show of all the fur/feather work

A Study in Brown

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This leaves picking out all the remaining clothing and armour surfaces in natural, earthen colours.  In other words time to work with more shades of brown than I knew were possible.  I first went with a rich dark brown for the more dominant cloth surfaces, typically trousers.  My base colour was VMC Panzer Aces 302 Dark Rust.  This was highlighted with VMC 70.983 Flat Earth, mainly by drubrushing where I could safely get away with it.  lastly the whole thing was washed with GW Nuln Oil.  There were a few simple areas on a few of models that wanted to be a different shade of leather to everything else.  They got a quick coat of P3 brown ink over their pre-shading and no more attention than this.

Dark Rust baseDark Rust base
Flat Earth HighlightFlat Earth Highlight
Nuln Oil WashNuln Oil Wash
Brown inkBrown ink

I had at least 2 more types of cloth to pick out in different earthen shades.  I didn’t want everything to be mid tone browns so I picked out a less vibrant yellow, P3 Mouldy Ochre, and base coated the remaining large sections of cloth, and some hems.  I also painted the wraps on peoples hand P3 Trollblood Highlight at the same time as both colours would get a Gw Agrax Earthshade wash.  This tints the yellow and makes it more earthen, and makes the wraps look dirty and old.  To get the wash to sit right on Zarola’s top I ended up applying a second wash and holding her upside down until it dried.

The yellow was drybrush highlighted with its base colour.  I didn’t want it getting any brighter than that.  The wraps were drybrush highlighted with P3 Menoth White base.  I think of this recipe as “Walking Dead White Shirt”.  On the right surface it looks like it used to be white but you’ve not taken it off or had a shower for many months.

The yellow is a little too bright after just the base coatThe yellow is a little too bright after just the base coat
The yellow looks much darker and more earthen (and more brown) after some Agrax EarthshadeThe yellow looks much darker and more earthen (and more brown) after some Agrax Earthshade
The finished coloursThe finished colours

That’s 4 more shades of brown applied, along with the flesh tones, bear fur, leather, fur clothing, and different hair colours.  There’s still the brown of the wood, the brown of the leather straps, the brown of some dark bronze, bone (That’s a whitish brown?) the red-brown of the earth, and the red-brown of some rocks to come later.  I hope I’ve enough of a range of browns encroaching in to other colours that it doesn’t all blur together.

Wood Effect and Plants

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There’s a fair bit of wood across all their weapons.  I quite like the wood effect from a recent AssetDrop box so I’ll be basing my work here on that.

Base Coat: ScaleColour SC-31Brown Leather

Shade: base mixed with a little black painted on the lower sections

Highlight: Paint on thinned Coat D’Arms 224 Horse Tone Bay on the upper sections

Wood Core Base: P3 Menoth White Base

Initial coats on the woodInitial coats on the wood
Scalecolour Inktense Chesnut wash over all the wood.  I got a little on my primed netting and I liked the effect so I went with it.Scalecolour Inktense Chesnut wash over all the wood. I got a little on my primed netting and I liked the effect so I went with it.
The wood bark wash Drybrushed with horse Tone Bay and the netting was drybrushed with P3 Mouldy Ochre and then P3 Sickly Skin in a pot luck attempt to find something that looked right.The wood bark wash Drybrushed with horse Tone Bay and the netting was drybrushed with P3 Mouldy Ochre and then P3 Sickly Skin in a pot luck attempt to find something that looked right.
The accessible wood core was drybrushed with Mentoth White base.  The wood is now finished.The accessible wood core was drybrushed with Mentoth White base. The wood is now finished.
The leaves were base coated with Ammo Mig Deep Green and then washed with a couple of coats of Army Painted Green Tone.  A little Army Painted Strong Tone was added to the green tone and applied to the deeper areas.The leaves were base coated with Ammo Mig Deep Green and then washed with a couple of coats of Army Painted Green Tone. A little Army Painted Strong Tone was added to the green tone and applied to the deeper areas.
The flat areas of the leaves were reclaimed with more Deep Green.  The edges were then picked out with Ammo Mig Lime GreenThe flat areas of the leaves were reclaimed with more Deep Green. The edges were then picked out with Ammo Mig Lime Green

Grey Boots Because Anything But More Brown

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I decided to paint the boots grey as I really didn’t want to come up with the 20th distinct shade of brown.  Having recently painted some Khador models I thought I would use the same recipe but I got to the highlighting stage and they lacked any definition and looked too light, clean and smooth so I scrapped that plan and bathed everything in Nuln Oil.  Say what you like about GW, but Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade are a painters best friends.

Base coated with a mix of P3 Greatcoat Grey and P3 Menoth White Highlight.  After some washes and highlights they largely looked the same as this so i won't bother detailing themBase coated with a mix of P3 Greatcoat Grey and P3 Menoth White Highlight. After some washes and highlights they largely looked the same as this so i won't bother detailing them
After an GW Nuln Oil wash they received a Cryx Bane Highlight drybrush.  This was done to all the remaining footwear at the same timeAfter an GW Nuln Oil wash they received a Cryx Bane Highlight drybrush. This was done to all the remaining footwear at the same time

Duplicate entry - Issues with the Projects system today

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There’s a weird thing going on when I try and save these updates today.  It times out (gateway error type thing I think), and then when it reloads the page none of my progress is saved.  I type up the whole thing again and save it and then when I’m done with the next (another time out error) it reloads having lost that work but now both versions of the previous entry are there.  Suspicious now, I hit refresh every 30 seconds for the next few minutes and my most recent lost entry eventually appears after all.  I’ve come in here to delete this duplicate post and I cannot see an option to do that so I’m leaving this text here instead.  Perhaps we can have a delete button added in the future?  I tried removing everything but it would not save.

I just got the error again, so here it is in case it helps someone at BoW HQ resolve anything.  It automatically tries to reload the page too.I just got the error again, so here it is in case it helps someone at BoW HQ resolve anything. It automatically tries to reload the page too.

The Final Leathers and Ropes

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I’ve picked out enough different layers of clothing that I can assume everything else is my Mk1 default lazy leather.  Everything gets simpler now as I no longer need to think about picking colours.  I painted the final leathers and the ropes at the same time because there is very little rope and it has the same shade wash stage that can take a while to dry:

Leathers

Base: P3 Bootstrap leather (P3 Idrian Flesh where I wanted a second shade to break up different surfaces)
Shade: GW Agrax Earthshade
Highlight: P3 Beast Hide

Rope:

Base: P3 Rucksack Tane
Shade: GW Agrax Earthshade
Highlight: P3 Mouldy Ochre

The base coats with the wash appliedThe base coats with the wash applied
After the drybrush highlightsAfter the drybrush highlights

Iron and Steel

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I base coated most of the irons with P3 Pig Iron as its a good standard weapon colour.  However Snow, the wolf, has an icy feel to him and I wanted his metal to echo this so I chose a silver that had an edge of cold and blue to it.  VGC 72.053 Chainmail silver looked like my best option from the pots at my desk so base coated all his metal in this.  I also applied some of this to the edges of the blades of everyone else’s weapons.  I’d normally do this after shading, but the paint was mixed up already so i thought why not try it?

Everyone but the wolf then got a wash with Nuln Oil.  I gloss varnished the wolf and then applied the nuln oil only to his recesses and the engraved swirls in his armour as a pin wash.  The gloss helps repel it from flat surfaces keeping them clean.

Everything then got highlighted with VGC Chainmail.  VMA 71.064 Chrome was then used to highlight the wolf and add a little glint to the highest points of weapon highlights.  I apparently forgot to take a picture of this stage because I can see the end in sight at last and I was caught up the the momentum.

 

Back at the start of this project I did an experiment to test out the two different rust pigments I have had on my desk for a while.  The very next day AssetDrop posted me a third rust paint, Mission Models Transparent Light Rust.  After running a quick test on an old bottle cap I’ve used to paint models on, I mixed a drop of this with a little water and applied it to a select few weapons and Zarola’s shoulder armour to see how it works.  I think this could be very good for providing stains, rather than built up rust, but I will experiment more with it in the future.

Pig Iron and Chainmail base coatsPig Iron and Chainmail base coats
Nuln Oil Wash and Pin WashNuln Oil Wash and Pin Wash
I forgot to take a picture of the highlight so here's a picture of Gerrard Butler drinking tea instead.  Because I'm British and reasons and stuff.  I blame Lance.I forgot to take a picture of the highlight so here's a picture of Gerrard Butler drinking tea instead. Because I'm British and reasons and stuff. I blame Lance.
My first use of Mission Models Transparent Light Rust on a modelMy first use of Mission Models Transparent Light Rust on a model

Bronze, Gold, and Green Lacquer

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These models have two areas which I see as shades of gold.  They have the guild symbols which I see as being older and worn, and they have more ornamental pieces I see as being newer and cleaner.

I haven’t shown any group shots for a few stages so there are some at the bottom.

Old worn Bronze:
Base: Darkstar Blackened Bronze
Highlight: Darkstar Bronze, drybrushed if you can, but I can’t seem to get any “golds” to drybrush well
Shade: Secret Weapon Sewer Water, diluted a touch
Highlight: Darkstar Bronze

Shiny Gold:
Base: VGA 72.756 Glorious Gold
Shade: GW Agrax Earthshade
Highlight: P3 Solid Gold
Laquer: VGC 72.089 Green Ink painted over the gold in a few thin coats

Base Coat onlyBase Coat only
With some Bronze highlightsWith some Bronze highlights
2 coats of dilute Sewer Water wash2 coats of dilute Sewer Water wash
Final highlight of BronzeFinal highlight of Bronze
Gold base coated and given a wash of AgraxGold base coated and given a wash of Agrax
The gold highlighted, and the cats hat given a few thin layers of green inkThe gold highlighted, and the cats hat given a few thin layers of green ink

Bone, Antlers, Horns, Teeth, and Eyes

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The bone was base coated with P3 jack Bone.  The antlers, horns and teeth were based with a mix of P3 Menoth White Highlight and Menoth White Base to make them a slightly different colourThe bone was base coated with P3 jack Bone. The antlers, horns and teeth were based with a mix of P3 Menoth White Highlight and Menoth White Base to make them a slightly different colour
It was all carefully washed with GW Seraphim SepiaIt was all carefully washed with GW Seraphim Sepia
Everything was drybrush highlighted with Menoth White Base, and the antlers and horns were also drybrushed with Menoth White Highlight.  The teeth were also individually picked out with MWH as best as I couldEverything was drybrush highlighted with Menoth White Base, and the antlers and horns were also drybrushed with Menoth White Highlight. The teeth were also individually picked out with MWH as best as I could
The eyes of the animals were picked out.  The bear had P3 Sickly Skin, the wolf got P3 Underbelly Blue, and the cat got P3 Ironhull GreyThe eyes of the animals were picked out. The bear had P3 Sickly Skin, the wolf got P3 Underbelly Blue, and the cat got P3 Ironhull Grey
The pupils of the bear were then picked out cackhandedly in P3 Battlefield BrownThe pupils of the bear were then picked out cackhandedly in P3 Battlefield Brown
The teeth were individually highlighted with a dot of P3 Sickly Skin.  I actually did this the same time I was painting the bears eyesThe teeth were individually highlighted with a dot of P3 Sickly Skin. I actually did this the same time I was painting the bears eyes

Basing

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Last month AssetDrop shipped me a new selection of basing materials to produce what they called a Baked Canyon effect.  My plan has been to test this out on my hunters.  Here’s what they say can be done with it and what was in he box:

Army Painter Wet Mud Effects basing paint
Serious Play Canyon Small Tuft Variety
Serious Play Baked Canyon Landscape Texture

Their guide says the mud will dry with a wet finish so I should varnish everything first to preserve this.  I’ve worked with textured paint before and I am aware that you often get cracks and can see through the paint to whats beneath so I chose to undercoat everything with P3 Bloodtracker brown, as this appeared to be a similar colour to the mud.  I also painted the rock the wolf is on with this.  The rock also got a wash with Agrax Earthshade, and drybrushed with P3 Beast Hide and then p3 Hammerfall Khaki.  The rims of the bases were then painted black and everything was given a coat of Gloss Varnish and then Matt Varnish via my airbrush.

The bases were undercoated.  Unfortunately I was caught up in the momentum and forgot to take more step by step photosThe bases were undercoated. Unfortunately I was caught up in the momentum and forgot to take more step by step photos
The wet mud... wel, ... wetThe wet mud... wel, ... wet
The wet mud effect after it has setThe wet mud effect after it has set

The mud took many hours to dry and I ended up leaving overnight, so in the end it got perhaps 20 hours to dry before I worked with it, but those photos are 8-9 hours apart.  At this stage I’m really not impressed with the effect.  I can see the masking tape through it and its not got any kind of texture or effect to it.  I’m thinking I could have just left it with just the paint and had the same effect.  perhaps I applied it too thin or too thick?  Who knows?  the GW textured paints are better than this.

I’m trying to test AssetDrops guide and supplies though so I pushed on.  I glued everyone to their bases, and then tidied up the rims with more black paint where needed.  I then glued at least one tuft to each of the bases, consuming the whole pack.  I’ve switched from Loctite Precision to Gorilla Glue recently and their bottles have a brush built in to them.  Its always seemed a little weird.  Why don’t the bristles just dry up in to a lump?  This seemed like a great time to experiment with it.  Turns out the bristles are more like plastic tooth brush bristles than paint brush bristles.  Seems to work well, but not good for finesse work.  I would also want to warn everyone to do this in a well ventilated area as the fumes are so much stronger and were burning my eyes throughout.

My setup after burying a few bases in the trail mixMy setup after burying a few bases in the trail mix

I was working over a clean sheet of newspaper with a solid fold in it on top of a clean tray so I could salvage all the overspill.  I found pouring a little in to a shot glass allowed me to apply the mix with a lot more control than if I had poured it from the bag.  On the whole I liked this mix, but I feel the cork chunks were often too large.  Same with some of the bright green sponge pieces.  It could have used a little longer in the blender. The models remained buried for 5 minutes before having the excess tapped off, and then brushed down gently with an old toothbrush.

So how did this end up?  On to the next and final post to find out.

The End

Tutoring 0
Skill 2
Idea 0
2 Comments
The End

Everything is done, at last.  Below is a gallery of rotational close ups of each model.  Let me know what you think.

A few take aways from this project:

  • If I get paint somewhere I don’t want when drybrushing I can get a little airbrush cleaner on a brush and remove it without damaging the paint beneath.  This either doesn’t work on metallics or stops working if i don’t notice my error for a while
  • When using basing materials like this I should be heavier handed when applying the glue.  I didn’t want it piling up too high so I was gentle.  Now its a little sparse in places and I suspect it’s too late to try and apply more glue
  • I missed a metal ring through one of the tusks on Ulfr’s back.  I didn’t see it until I was uploading his pic today.  I’ll fix that tonight.
  • When I am using ink or a wash over a pre-shaded surface I need to be 100% sure I’ve tidied up any over-painting I have done with neighbouring colours otherwise its a pain to fix with the ink/wash.  I got carried away once or twice in this project and there are errors.
  • Never assume that just because a model has big hair that blocks the view to whats underneath that you cannot actually see those clothes.  Skatha, I am looking at you.  Check everything and be sure.
  • Image galleries in Projects are capped at 9 images
  • I can spend the entire day hitting F5 if I’m trying to update a project and BoW keeps falling over
  • I need a better way of doing feathers that doesn’t need an airbrush, isn’t messy, and doesn’t drive me crazy by making me paint each individual hair by hand
  • Once again this shows that if you bring together en masse the right models with the right basing effects they become greater than the sum of their parts.  These bases look better for the models on them, and the paint jobs look better with the bases to enhance them
  • Any colour can be brown if you apply enough Agrax Earthshade

Improvements I’d like to see in the projects system:

  • More Entry Content steps allowed per Entry
  • More photos per gallery
  • The ability to delete Entries and to insert new ones between existing ones
  • An automated project flow page showing all the updates people make across all the different projects in order on one screen starting with the most recent or from a date of my choice onwards. Sort of an automated WAYPN thread that feeds from the Projects only
  • I changed this Project from Active to Completed.  There was no achievement pop up.  There was no confetti GIF.  What gives?

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