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Elessar2590 TerrainFest 2024
Recommendations: 57
About the Project
I have several terrain projects in mind, some Dunland Hovels, some Epic Battles Pike and Shotte Terrain and some other bits and pieces I have lying around.
Related Genre: General
Related Contest: TerrainFest 2024
This Project is Active
The Buildings: Part One
A Close up of the Walls and Cloth. The Cloth was all painted with Snakebite Leather Contrast straight onto the paper Mache. The Curtains are made by sticking a toothpick into the gap and pushing the paper in with an old brush.
I decided to put the roof boards under the roof than over it as shown in the originals. This not only gave support to the Roof but made it a little more interesting to see top down which is most of the time.
The Support Beams were Painted Khaki then washed with Snakebite Leather and drybrushed with Khaki. The Roof was then drybrushed with Khaki.
You can see the stippling effect here. I also draped a few on the curtains over the window and tore them to make them look disheveled. 
On some houses I used Matchsticks, painted the same as the corner planks, to give the illusion of the walls falling and being supported.
Buildings can be made unique by cutting the sides at different angles. This one is a storage barn.
The Hay is made by buidling a mound of putty or something else, paint it black and glue cut up doormat bristles or something similar to give the impression of a hay pile.
The Roof sticks are painted in the same way as the corner sticks. I broke them off and roughed them up a bit before gluing them down.
It's easier to see in person but this and the next picture are an example of how cutting the walls on an angle gives the impression of tumbledown shacks especially with the added matchstick supports
The wall had a hole cut in it and toothpicks inserted before the Spackle was applied to give the impression of a filled in window. If I build any more of these I probably won't bother doing any of these.
A picture of the 'matchstick supports' effectThe Tool and Painting
I made this "Tool" to help cutting out the end pieces. It is 55mm wide and the shelf is 5mm thick becuase that is the thickness of the foam I used. The length is arbitrary since I varied the height of the walls and I didn't want to spend 12+ hours printing the tool at the time by making it the same length as the long wall which is also an option.
The Walls are painted with Khaki, any kind works.
This is where my pictures are lost, I miraculously still have this one. The next step is to stipple the walls with white paint. I used Gesso which is used to prime Canvas's that artists use and is relatively cheap at any art shop. Put it on the pallet and let it dry out quite a bit then stipple it on pretty roughly but the wall should be mostly white.Making Dunland Hovels
I have wanted to make these ever since I first saw them in the fantastic Battle Games in Middle Earth Magazine (Issue 67). They are made from Foam board, MDF, toothpicks, tissues, PVA glue and spackle.
You can replace the Spackle with sand for a similar effect.
Unfortunately I lost most of my WIP pictures due to a PC issue and haven’t had a stable internet connection for about a month so it’s a little late but here goes.
This is the most important step. Vary up the walls a little, later in the Project you will see how you can make the buildings unique just by angling the building one way or another. Replace the card base with an MDF one.
While I didn't do this I have included it for completeness. I achieved a similar effect with toothpicks which I will highlight later.
Cover glue the corner wood on first then cover the walls in spackle. leave a few little gaps and remember, the patchier the better, these are dirty hovels.
Again I did this a little differently. I glued broken off paddlepop sticks on the roof then layered on toilet paper or tissues soaked in pva glue to create a papier-mâché roof. My advice is to put some PVA and water on the paddlepop stick, lay on some paper and then apply more PVA and wat rather with a brush rather than soak it as you would traditional paper-mache.
I'll give you my paint scheme in the next post but it's very similar. Notice the brick and tilted walls options which I also used.Making a Bog Advanced
Why I split this the way I did
This Project will be split between basic and advanced tutorials.
I’m not a pro but it can be daunting to pick up a project when you see complicated techniques or specialised paints/equipment and I want to make it as accessible to people as possible.
Also some people want to make terrain that looks good but doesn’t take all day or a dozen types of grass to make.
Because of this I want to make terrain building as low stress and low prep an activity as possible. Since the dawn of time wargaming tables have been sparse and I think a lot of that has to do with people’s perception of how hard it is to make terrain when it’s really dead easy.
Pick out the rocks with Stonewall Grey or another light Grey, drybrush them white once that layer has dried.
Using PVA glue first apply green static grass to the model and the using PVA glue apply dead grass tufts. Spread both of these around and don't clutter the piece.
Paint several layers of gloss varnish or water effect over the green bog
A better image of the water effect, still hard to see in image form
Here you can see how the terrain works with 10mm Miniatures like the Warlord Epic range, these are 10mm Highlanders 3D Printed from pandailbianco67 on Cults
While I'm not a fan of larger pieces of big area terrain one or two can really help to make a battlefield more interesting
The bog also works for fantasy or historical or sci fi games of a larger scale, here Frodo and Sam could very well be in the Dead Marshes with this terrain.There you go, some simple scatter terrain made from basing supplies you already have laying around and some dirt cheap MDF. Let me know if you have any tips or if you try it yourself link your Project down in the comments so that I can check it out.
Making a Bog Basics
You'll only need some MDF, a Stanley Knife and regular basing material for this one. 
Cut out some shpaes from your MDF, I made some big and some small but tried to make most of them non uniform and non rectangular. Making terrain with a curved footprint, I believe, helps it blend in better on the table. Using the knife carefully cut a slope or chamfer into the edge of the MDF which will help it blend into the tabletop and also helps clean up any rough cuts. I like to spray a light coat over the MDF to help stop the worst of the warping
Using a mix of normal basing sand and more gritty sand base the bogs leaving irregular shapes which will be made into water pools. Again spray or otherwise seal the basing material.
Paint the basing mix with Catachan Flesh, watering it down so that it flows and gets good coverage but no too much that it becomes transparent.
Drybrush the basing material with Vallejo Khaki. All the colours I list are just the ones I used, feel free to substitute them for others. 
Paint the bog with Death World Forest. You can stop here if you like, it will look good on the tabletop. You can modify this to make a whole bunch of stuff, toxic waste pools, lava pools, alien splooge, be creative.
