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Necromunda: The Halls of Hive Primus

Necromunda: The Halls of Hive Primus

Project Blog by Magrathean-Apprentice

Recommendations: 163

About the Project

Way back in the mists of time games workshop released a small little game called Necromunda, maybe you've heard of it? The idea of gang wars in these massive hive cities immediately caught my attention and the vast diversity of gangs, bounty hunters, mutants and general lowlife scum opened the world up to all kinds of crazy and innovative ideas. After 2 decades of waiting GW finally release Necromunda again, but unlike its original release the initial box set was missing the cardboard and plastic 3D terrain and instead focused on a 2D warzone. Necromunda to me should be played in a 3D space so I started this project to try and create a modular terrain system to offer the choice of making maps from the underhive and to also allow customisation to build upwards and outwards to create something unique.

This Project is Active

More Beer, More Ideas...

Tutoring 3
Skill 3
Idea 3
No Comments
I wanted a couple of collection silos for the sludge vats and what makes great silos?... Empty cans! I started by scoring the edge where i wanted to cut with a good hobby knife and then went over the same lines a couple more times, this makes it much easier to get a good clean cut.I wanted a couple of collection silos for the sludge vats and what makes great silos?... Empty cans! I started by scoring the edge where i wanted to cut with a good hobby knife and then went over the same lines a couple more times, this makes it much easier to get a good clean cut.
With the guide line in place its easy to judge if the line will be fairly straight or if it needs to be scored again.With the guide line in place its easy to judge if the line will be fairly straight or if it needs to be scored again.
I cut off the bottom of the can then replaced the plastic cap from the pack holder, this will add some more detail to finished piece.I cut off the bottom of the can then replaced the plastic cap from the pack holder, this will add some more detail to finished piece.
Printed out a suitable base which the can will be fitted onto, i wanted something that looked industrial but ornate at the same time.Printed out a suitable base which the can will be fitted onto, i wanted something that looked industrial but ornate at the same time.
The can and base together, things are looking good so far.The can and base together, things are looking good so far.
First layer of paints, metals done in the usual fashion, the can sprayed in a standard grey primer and for the rust/chipped paint base i used rough iron form army painter.First layer of paints, metals done in the usual fashion, the can sprayed in a standard grey primer and for the rust/chipped paint base i used rough iron form army painter.
Edged the chipped areas with some light grey paint to add a bit of depth.Edged the chipped areas with some light grey paint to add a bit of depth.
Then finally added on my rust mix and iron powder to add a it of texture and colour before finally drybrushing in silver paint.Then finally added on my rust mix and iron powder to add a it of texture and colour before finally drybrushing in silver paint.
The finished vats with their collection silos.... I'm going to need a few more cans i thinkThe finished vats with their collection silos.... I'm going to need a few more cans i think

In the Underhive Sometimes it's best NOT to know where your next meal is coming from.

Tutoring 5
Skill 6
Idea 7
No Comments
Keeping with the subject of water and vegetation i decided to make the sludge vats from the delta-7 badlands board expansion set, essentially big holes in the ground filled with slime which passes for food in the underhive.Keeping with the subject of water and vegetation i decided to make the sludge vats from the delta-7 badlands board expansion set, essentially big holes in the ground filled with slime which passes for food in the underhive.
Made up the vats in the 3D printer then painted them using the usual metal and rust combinations. the inside of the vat was painted with death world green before being filled with the liquid crystal resin from the last project.Made up the vats in the 3D printer then painted them using the usual metal and rust combinations. the inside of the vat was painted with death world green before being filled with the liquid crystal resin from the last project.
The wave effects were made by dabbing on some of the woodland scenics brand of water effect paste.The wave effects were made by dabbing on some of the woodland scenics brand of water effect paste.
The vats each had a bridge but i decided to make 2 for each to give a few more options when setting up.The vats each had a bridge but i decided to make 2 for each to give a few more options when setting up.
The finished vats with the bridges.The finished vats with the bridges.
I like scenery which limits movement or provides obstacles to traverse, looks like these Goliath gangers have fallen into an Escher ambush.... Time to sink or swim.I like scenery which limits movement or provides obstacles to traverse, looks like these Goliath gangers have fallen into an Escher ambush.... Time to sink or swim.

Life finds a way

Tutoring 6
Skill 6
Idea 7
No Comments

For the next part of the project i thought it would be nice to throw in a few scenery pieces that could act as obstacles or barricades but also add in something a little more unusual to the background, i figured the hive would have things like water basins to collect pipe run-off or even provide some kind of growing area for lichen, moss and ferro-weeds.

I put together a simple box and added in some Gothic flourishes, some arches, raised corners and of course lots of rivets.I put together a simple box and added in some Gothic flourishes, some arches, raised corners and of course lots of rivets.
For the water effect i used some liquid crystal resin, not exactly cheap and I'm sure there are some cheaper versions out there but i had some left over from a previous project. For the moss i went for the woodland scenics range of autumn lichen, i didnt want anything too green or vibrant since the vegetation would most likely be half dead, under artificial light or was a species that had evolved to eat rust and metal. For the water effect i used some liquid crystal resin, not exactly cheap and I'm sure there are some cheaper versions out there but i had some left over from a previous project. For the moss i went for the woodland scenics range of autumn lichen, i didnt want anything too green or vibrant since the vegetation would most likely be half dead, under artificial light or was a species that had evolved to eat rust and metal.
Painted up the boxes using standard dark metal and brass colours then added in the resin to a couple and glued the lichen into the others.Painted up the boxes using standard dark metal and brass colours then added in the resin to a couple and glued the lichen into the others.
Welcome to Flushing Waste Springs.... Please don't ask us about your lost jewellery, baby Sump-kroc or missing Juve... you really don't want to know!Welcome to Flushing Waste Springs.... Please don't ask us about your lost jewellery, baby Sump-kroc or missing Juve... you really don't want to know!

Lower your tone and bring it together.

Tutoring 4
Skill 6
Idea 6
No Comments
When i started this project i really wanted to limit my painting jobs to spray can and sponge stippling only but looking back at the original paint job on the construction cubes i decided that it did look a bit iffy, the rust effect was very strong and different brands of paint were definitely showing.When i started this project i really wanted to limit my painting jobs to spray can and sponge stippling only but looking back at the original paint job on the construction cubes i decided that it did look a bit iffy, the rust effect was very strong and different brands of paint were definitely showing.
I went back to the original cubes and attacked them all with a heavy drybrush of a light silver tone, it took about an hour but the difference was worth it, the silver paint toned down the rust effect, highlighted the textures from the paint and generally brought the colour scheme together for all of the cubes making them look a bit more unified.I went back to the original cubes and attacked them all with a heavy drybrush of a light silver tone, it took about an hour but the difference was worth it, the silver paint toned down the rust effect, highlighted the textures from the paint and generally brought the colour scheme together for all of the cubes making them look a bit more unified.
when placed together the colours matched up much more effectively and the muted tone on the rust now allowed other pieces of scenery to stand out more against the background.when placed together the colours matched up much more effectively and the muted tone on the rust now allowed other pieces of scenery to stand out more against the background.

Beer gives me ideas...

Tutoring 6
Skill 6
Idea 6
No Comments
As mentioned before the boards were missing detail, they looked good on their own but they needed something extra to give that hive city feel.As mentioned before the boards were missing detail, they looked good on their own but they needed something extra to give that hive city feel.
I picked up some beer with my weekly shopping and looking at the pack holders i had an idea.I picked up some beer with my weekly shopping and looking at the pack holders i had an idea.
Removing one of the caps i cut off the extras to leave me with just a single circular section of plastic.Removing one of the caps i cut off the extras to leave me with just a single circular section of plastic.
Jumped back into Blender and built up a quick submarine hatch.Jumped back into Blender and built up a quick submarine hatch.
Glued the pieces together and added one of the hatch handles from the Necromunda underhive kit to top it off. Sprayed the whole thing in Lead Belcher and weathered it with the usual combination of washes and added in some watered down skrag brown and rust effect paints before finally gluing the piece to 4 tiles from the board.Glued the pieces together and added one of the hatch handles from the Necromunda underhive kit to top it off. Sprayed the whole thing in Lead Belcher and weathered it with the usual combination of washes and added in some watered down skrag brown and rust effect paints before finally gluing the piece to 4 tiles from the board.
With the addition of the pipes made previously and the new hatch the battle now has a bit more flavour to it, I imagine something like the Goliaths trying to wrestle control of an important transit hatch off the defending Orlocks in one of the Hives Sludge processing zones.With the addition of the pipes made previously and the new hatch the battle now has a bit more flavour to it, I imagine something like the Goliaths trying to wrestle control of an important transit hatch off the defending Orlocks in one of the Hives Sludge processing zones.

Going to need a bit more than WD40 to shift that.

Tutoring 4
Skill 3
Idea 4
No Comments

I really want a lot of my scenery to have a heavily rusted dirty appearance so i decided to try a little experiment using artist medium, iron powder and humbrol weathering powders (iron oxide and rust).

The base components to my rust paint mixture.The base components to my rust paint mixture.
When applied in thick layers the iron powder and weathering powders build up a rough texture and when dry the paint has a slightly powdery look.When applied in thick layers the iron powder and weathering powders build up a rough texture and when dry the paint has a slightly powdery look.
Another thing about iron powder, it oxidised incredibly fast. Mixing some iron powder with some PVA glue and water makes a decent fine texture paste which starts to take on a natural rusty look within hours of application.Another thing about iron powder, it oxidised incredibly fast. Mixing some iron powder with some PVA glue and water makes a decent fine texture paste which starts to take on a natural rusty look within hours of application.
On the picture above the rust paint has been applied to the pipe and the iron powder and glue mix has been applied round the base, after drybrushing with a light silver the texture stands out and gives the same effect as the typhus corrosion technical paint.On the picture above the rust paint has been applied to the pipe and the iron powder and glue mix has been applied round the base, after drybrushing with a light silver the texture stands out and gives the same effect as the typhus corrosion technical paint.

Its a bit... bare, how bout a few throw cushions, a coffee table.... some industrial pipes and built up grime?

Tutoring 4
Skill 4
Idea 3
No Comments

Even with the scenery from the game the base boards and construction cubes by themselves looked a little bare… it’s time to add in some additional scenery.

The first thing i wanted to add was some industrial pipes, the kind of thing that could carry water, air… and other things.

I based my idea around 15mm copper pipe connectors, nothing too fancy just the kind of thing you can pick up from most DIY stores.

I also wanted something a little more ornate, so I created a base block in blender to be 3D printed (for those looking to get into 3D printing Blender is an excellent starting point and its FREE!)I also wanted something a little more ornate, so I created a base block in blender to be 3D printed (for those looking to get into 3D printing Blender is an excellent starting point and its FREE!)
Each pipe would consist of a base block, end cap and a pipe fitting.Each pipe would consist of a base block, end cap and a pipe fitting.
Once i was happy with the dimensions and fitting it was time to glue it together and paint.Once i was happy with the dimensions and fitting it was time to glue it together and paint.
Sprayed the pipe with Lead Belcher, then washed with nuln oil and agrax earthshade (perfect for creating an aged metal look) i added in my own rust mixture (which i will expand on in another entry) and then glued the finished piece to a tile, finally i drybushed a light silver to bring up all the textures.Sprayed the pipe with Lead Belcher, then washed with nuln oil and agrax earthshade (perfect for creating an aged metal look) i added in my own rust mixture (which i will expand on in another entry) and then glued the finished piece to a tile, finally i drybushed a light silver to bring up all the textures.

Paint brings life.... the paint must flow.

Tutoring 5
Skill 6
Idea 6
No Comments

With the test run complete it’s time to add some colour, as much as i love laser cut MDF i doubt it has much of a place in the hive cities of the 41st millennium, the colour scheme needed to be metal, grime, rust and decay but this is just scenery at the end of the day, i didn’t want to spend several weeks painting each cube and square with accurate metal shades and weathering….. so i entered the old “spray can” cheat code.

PlastiKote... not the best or worst spray on the market but for £8 a can it certainly does the job, one can of dark metal, one lighter shade and a can of their rusting effect.PlastiKote... not the best or worst spray on the market but for £8 a can it certainly does the job, one can of dark metal, one lighter shade and a can of their rusting effect.
Gave each board and its tiles a blast with the darker shade then lightly dusted with the lighter shade and a small spray of the rust effect, each tile edge was shaded with some army painter ink Strong/Dark tone mixed and the drains were painted up with some rust/gold and silver paint... now we're looking a bit more like the underhive...Gave each board and its tiles a blast with the darker shade then lightly dusted with the lighter shade and a small spray of the rust effect, each tile edge was shaded with some army painter ink Strong/Dark tone mixed and the drains were painted up with some rust/gold and silver paint... now we're looking a bit more like the underhive...
The tiles we're designed to be moved about so the different paint effects on each add another level of randomisation and of course set up in whatever configuration I wanted.The tiles we're designed to be moved about so the different paint effects on each add another level of randomisation and of course set up in whatever configuration I wanted.
The last part was to paint up the construction cubes, one again nothing fancy, spray painted with the lighter metal colour and the bottom edge sprayed with the rust effect, as a final touch i just sponged on some weathering pigments and paints.The last part was to paint up the construction cubes, one again nothing fancy, spray painted with the lighter metal colour and the bottom edge sprayed with the rust effect, as a final touch i just sponged on some weathering pigments and paints.
One board section set up complete with doors and scenery for effect.One board section set up complete with doors and scenery for effect.

The only way is up...down, left right... wherever.

Tutoring 5
Skill 6
Idea 7
No Comments
With the boards and construction cubes created it was time to do a test run and see if one of the maps from Necroumnda: Underhive could be replicated with a few additions and changes, I used the scenario With the boards and construction cubes created it was time to do a test run and see if one of the maps from Necroumnda: Underhive could be replicated with a few additions and changes, I used the scenario "Smash & Grab" as my test run.
One of the scenery items provided in Necromunda: Underhive is the bulkhead doors, I wanted to make sure this scenery system worked with the scenery already provided so i needed to test the width between cubes to ensure that the doors could be inserted and removed smoothly, luckily they fit perfectly with only a small gap either side.One of the scenery items provided in Necromunda: Underhive is the bulkhead doors, I wanted to make sure this scenery system worked with the scenery already provided so i needed to test the width between cubes to ensure that the doors could be inserted and removed smoothly, luckily they fit perfectly with only a small gap either side.

But the purpose of this project wasn’t to remake Underhive maps, it was to offer a choice of 2D or 3D playing areas…. and with that in mind…

I went up to the next level.... Time to get painting....I went up to the next level.... Time to get painting....

(some eagle eyed viewers may notice a small difference in the construction cube designs, the unpainted version shown in these pictures shows some of the amended designs but all painted versions in future posts will be the older versions)

It's Like minecraft only for 40k..

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 5
No Comments

With base boards set up it was time to look at the next big component, the construction cubes.

Each cube would consist of an inner layer which would fit into the squares on the base board and be offset around the top to provide a small shelf which one of the floor tiles could be rested on, the outer cladding consists of two designs, one standard bulkhead and the other cut to represent some form of air duct/ventilation shaft.Each cube would consist of an inner layer which would fit into the squares on the base board and be offset around the top to provide a small shelf which one of the floor tiles could be rested on, the outer cladding consists of two designs, one standard bulkhead and the other cut to represent some form of air duct/ventilation shaft.
Once assembled these cubes will provide the base structure for walls and upper floors, cubes can be lined up next to each other or on top of each other meaning a board layout can be constructed in a similar fashion to the Minecraft system... 40K-Craft?Once assembled these cubes will provide the base structure for walls and upper floors, cubes can be lined up next to each other or on top of each other meaning a board layout can be constructed in a similar fashion to the Minecraft system... 40K-Craft?

In the beginning there were cardboard tiles...

Tutoring 4
Skill 4
Idea 6
No Comments

To start things off i needed to know what i was going to work with, since the underhive box set came with a selection of pre-printed board tiles i decided that it would be best to use them as my starting point.

In the beginning there were cardboard tiles...

Luckily for me boards were already divided into quadrants 6 squares wide and 6 squares long.

Using these dimensions I drafted up an idea, 2 square MDF boards, the upper layer being a grid with 36 holes and the lower layer being a standard flat board for everything to rest on and provide stability.Using these dimensions I drafted up an idea, 2 square MDF boards, the upper layer being a grid with 36 holes and the lower layer being a standard flat board for everything to rest on and provide stability.
The initial board, the starting point for the rest of this project.The initial board, the starting point for the rest of this project.
The last piece of the board would be the tiles, using the cut-outs from the upper layer each of the 36 tiles were engraved with a border or a drain to break up the flat areas and to make them a bit more interesting to look at.The last piece of the board would be the tiles, using the cut-outs from the upper layer each of the 36 tiles were engraved with a border or a drain to break up the flat areas and to make them a bit more interesting to look at.

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