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Guild Ball Hunter’s Guild by Lawnor

Guild Ball Hunter’s Guild by Lawnor

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Project Blog by lawnor Cult of Games Member

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About the Project

A start to end view of my work on the complete Hunters Guild for Guild Ball. I will try to make this as detailed and informative as I can (I do have a habit of getting caught up and forgetting to photograph steps). I like following guides and tutorials so lets see if others can use this as one when I'm done.

This Project is Completed

Bear Fur for Seenah

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I had a couple of hours only to paint last night so I went for a quick simple paint job I could complete in that time.  I’ll save the bigger jobs for the weekend.

I’ve been painting werewolves and dogs for my Circle Orboros force for years now so I know how to paint brown fur, but a new faction is an opportunity to try a new method and get different results so I went looking online and I found this video.  My works are based on this, but I didn’t have his paints so I swapped some out, and chose not to go for the bright tufts he used.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxvL-r6g7-I

Here’s the paints and steps in order

Base coat P3 Umbral Umber

Drybrush P3 Gun Corps Brown all over

Drybrush VMC 70.843 Cork Brown everywhere but the dark undersides

Mix VMC Cork Brown and P3 Mouldy Ochre together.  Be warned that Mouldy Ochre will take over this mix so only add a tiny amount to begin with.  You want this to remain brown, not yellow.  Drybrush on the regions you want highlighted.

Mix in some P3 Jack Bone or any bone.  Use this to enhance the highlights

Dilute a little MSP 09253 Flesh Wash (Or vallejo Skin ink if you have it) with water and apply gently to the darker areas.  You don’t want this to dry in a visible way.  You want it to make the brown feel a little red at some angles, but not look red.  I also chose to encourage this to pool in the eyes and ears to give them more of a fleshy feel once dry.  The eyes and ears got 3 coats in the end.

Mix P3 Brown in, water and mixing medium and use this to add shadow to any recesses and along the edges where things sit against the fur.  The video talks about adding more layers of darker shading but I have chosen to leave it at this for now.  perhaps I will revisit and go further as the model develops?

I also added a couple of washes of GW Carroburg Crimson inside the mouth.  its a fast and lazy way of colouring tongues etc if the inside has preshading, or even just flesh tones.  Splashing a little over the gums/lips can also enhance the appearance sometimes.  The teeth will be taken care of later.

PrimedPrimed
Even coat of P3 Umbral umberEven coat of P3 Umbral umber
Drybrush P3 Gun Corps BrownDrybrush P3 Gun Corps Brown
Drybrush VMC Cork BrownDrybrush VMC Cork Brown
Drybrush VMC Cork Brown / P3 Mouldy Ochre mixDrybrush VMC Cork Brown / P3 Mouldy Ochre mix
Drybrush VMC Cork Brown / P3 Mouldy Ochre / P3 Jack Bone mixDrybrush VMC Cork Brown / P3 Mouldy Ochre / P3 Jack Bone mix
Selective glaze / wash with MSP Flesh WashSelective glaze / wash with MSP Flesh Wash
Shadows added with P3 Brown inkShadows added with P3 Brown ink
GW Carroburg Crimson wash to colour the mouthGW Carroburg Crimson wash to colour the mouth
Here's all the steps side by side.  I imagine you can't see the difference between all the stages, but some of them are meant to be subtleHere's all the steps side by side. I imagine you can't see the difference between all the stages, but some of them are meant to be subtle

I’m calling the bear fur done now, but as the model comes together I might revisit and add more shading to it.  if the fur ends up looking too highlighted I can give it a wash with GW Agrax Earthshade to bring it back down.

All being well I should have a couple of hours free tonight so I will likely switch to a different model.  I’m thinking skin tones next  Most of the humans have a generic white skin tone, but Skatha wants a pale tone (I’m thinking Cryx Pallid pink flesh), Zarola will be getting a coat of Foundry’s African Skin tones, and Ulfr is an odd one.  No one is quite sure what his skin tones are supposed to be, but he’s a wildling beserker type and I’m told he is a werewolf.  I’m thinking I’ll borrow from my Circle Orboros techniques and paint him like a Tharn.  Everyone else will be getting the MSP flesh tones I’ve been using recently, but that’s a job for the weekend.  Tonight I’ll likely attack the single model flesh tones.

If anyone has any ideas for white winter wolf fur please speak up.  I’ve done white fur 3 times so far, and I’ve never been as happy with the results as I’d like and I do have the wolf, “Snow” to come.

Flesh Tones - Skatha's Pallid Flesh

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In the art Skatha is portrayed as much more pale than the rest of the guild so I decided to go with the Cryx Pallid Flesh recipe.  She also has white hair and given my priming scheme means she already has most of the work done on her hair i started there.  I covered up any obvious black showing with more of the Grey primer (It is almost white).  The hair was then given a wash of P3 Frostbite, and I carefully drybrush the hair white and called it done.

P3 Paints used for Flesh:

Beaten Purple

Carnal Pink

Menoth White Highlight

Ryn Flesh

Traitor Green

Trollblood Highlight

Base coat was a mix of Carnal Pink, Ryn Flesh and Trollblood HighlightBase coat was a mix of Carnal Pink, Ryn Flesh and Trollblood Highlight
This was given a wash of the base with some Traitor GreenThis was given a wash of the base with some Traitor Green
The next wash had beaten Purple added to the previous mix and focused a little more on the deeper areas and recessesThe next wash had beaten Purple added to the previous mix and focused a little more on the deeper areas and recesses
She was then highlighted with a thinned mix of Ryn Flesh, Carnal Pink, and Menoth White HighlightShe was then highlighted with a thinned mix of Ryn Flesh, Carnal Pink, and Menoth White Highlight

Flesh Tones - Ulfr

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Ulfr is also portrayed as being clearly different but as Steamforged have such an undefined nature to their art style I wasn’t sure what he was supposed to look like. He is a wildling beserker and I hear a werewolf so I ended up going with the Circle Orboros Tharn Flesh scheme.

P3 paints used:

Battledress Green

Gun Corps Brown

Midlund Flesh

Ryn Flesh

Skorne Red

Thornwood Green

Ulfr was based with a mix of Midlund Flesh and Gun Corps Brown, keeping the mix more flesh than brown.Ulfr was based with a mix of Midlund Flesh and Gun Corps Brown, keeping the mix more flesh than brown.
He was washed all over with a wash made from the base mixed with Skorne RedHe was washed all over with a wash made from the base mixed with Skorne Red

Battledress Green and Thornwood Green were added to the above wash and this was only applied to the recesses and shaded areas.  I forgot to take a picture here apparently.

Highlights were applied using a thinned mix of Gun Corps Brown and Ryn FleshHighlights were applied using a thinned mix of Gun Corps Brown and Ryn Flesh
Final highlights were applied with thinned Ryn Flesh.  later on, the inside of the mouth was given a couple of washes of GW Caroburg Crimson.Final highlights were applied with thinned Ryn Flesh. later on, the inside of the mouth was given a couple of washes of GW Caroburg Crimson.

Flesh Tones - Zarola's African Skin

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I recently received the Foundry Paints African Paint Scheme in an AssetDrop box and this seemed like a good time to test it out.  The pictures will not be the best due to the pose of the model and the darkness of the colour.

The model was based with African Flesh Shade, and then highlighted with African Flesh.  I also put the base tone over the hair as I figured if it tinted whatever colour I put up there later that might be good.The model was based with African Flesh Shade, and then highlighted with African Flesh. I also put the base tone over the hair as I figured if it tinted whatever colour I put up there later that might be good.
She was further highlighted with African Flesh LightShe was further highlighted with African Flesh Light
Army Painter Strong Tone wash was then applied to the deeper recesses and used to provide shade wherever her clothing mightArmy Painter Strong Tone wash was then applied to the deeper recesses and used to provide shade wherever her clothing might

Flesh Tones - Everyone Else

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I’ve grown to really like the Reaper Master Series flesh paints from the first AssetDrop box since I first used them on my Shadespire Khorne warriors so it’s what I’m using here.

The base colour was MSP 29823 Caucasian FleshThe base colour was MSP 29823 Caucasian Flesh
They were given a wash of MSP 09253 Flesh WashThey were given a wash of MSP 09253 Flesh Wash
The surface areas were reclaimed using the thinned base colourThe surface areas were reclaimed using the thinned base colour
They were highlighted with a thinned mix of the base colour and MSP 29824 Maiden FleshThey were highlighted with a thinned mix of the base colour and MSP 29824 Maiden Flesh
The final highlight was done with thinned Maiden FleshThe final highlight was done with thinned Maiden Flesh

Hair

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I did all the human hair at the same time, except for Skatha, who I had done with her flesh tones.

Hearne, Veteran Hearne and Chaska had a base coat of VMC Smoke.

Theron was base coated P3 Battlefield Brown

Egret was based with P3 Ember Orange

Ulfr and Zarola were base coated with VMC German Grey

Hair

The shade washes were as follows:

GW Nuln oil: Hearne, Vet Hearne, Ulfr, Chaska.  Zarola was given a gloss varnish and then nuln oil was only applied in the  recesses.

GW Seraphim Sepia: Egret.

Agrax Earthshade: Theron

Hair

The following paints were used as careful drybrush highlights:

P3 idrian Flesh: hearne, Vet Hearne, Theron, Chaska

P3 Ember Orange, then P3 Mouldy ochre: Egret

Trollblood Highlight: Ulfr

 

Zarola was not highlighted, just given a matt varnish.  I liked the way her hair looked as it was.

Hair

The Animals - Fur etc: Fahad, Snow, and Seenah

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I’m working towards painting the cloth so I wanted to get the fur done on the pets before hand as this would be air brush work for me and easier to do safely if I can cover the whole model without worry.  I started work with Fahad.  Another model it will be hard to see due to his dark colours.

Fahad was painted black and then airbrushed with VMC German Grey covering everything except the undersideFahad was painted black and then airbrushed with VMC German Grey covering everything except the underside
The previous colour had some VMC London Grey and this was used to highlight the model, focusing on the hips, shoulder, neck, head and paws.  The mix was lightened progressively to add increasing highlightThe previous colour had some VMC London Grey and this was used to highlight the model, focusing on the hips, shoulder, neck, head and paws. The mix was lightened progressively to add increasing highlight
GW Nuln Oil was then used as deep shade in crevices and along the edges of anything touching his skin to provide shade.  GW Caroburg Crimson was applied twice inside the mouth.GW Nuln Oil was then used as deep shade in crevices and along the edges of anything touching his skin to provide shade. GW Caroburg Crimson was applied twice inside the mouth.
Show was given a basecoat of P3 Frostbite to provide an icy feel to his shadingShow was given a basecoat of P3 Frostbite to provide an icy feel to his shading
He was then drybrushed white.  I returned with a wash made from P3 Frostbite and P3 underbelly blue applied just to the recesses and along the edges of the straps etc to provide shade, but apparently forgot to take a photo.He was then drybrushed white. I returned with a wash made from P3 Frostbite and P3 underbelly blue applied just to the recesses and along the edges of the straps etc to provide shade, but apparently forgot to take a photo.

The next colour I’m aiming for is the green.  Looking at Seenah he needs the bamboo frame of his armour and his tusks painting before I can do that.

The tusks were based with P3 Menoth White base...The tusks were based with P3 Menoth White base...
... and washed with a mix of GW Seraphim Sepia and water... and washed with a mix of GW Seraphim Sepia and water
They were drybrushed with Menoth White Base, and the ends were finally drybrushed with Menoth White HighlightThey were drybrushed with Menoth White Base, and the ends were finally drybrushed with Menoth White Highlight
The Bamboo was based with Vallejo Panzer Aces Old WoodThe Bamboo was based with Vallejo Panzer Aces Old Wood
It was washed with GW Agrax Earthshade and drybrushed with Menoth White Base and I just ran out of layout spaces.  Max of 12 apparently.It was washed with GW Agrax Earthshade and drybrushed with Menoth White Base and I just ran out of layout spaces. Max of 12 apparently.

Green Cloth & Ball

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My plan here was to follow one of the darker green recipes from Angel Giraldez’s Masterclass Vol 1 as I’ve learnt things from his books before and I take every opportunity to follow a new guide from there.  It did not go to plan.  Near the end he highlights from a dark green to a mint ice cream green and the change was too extreme for me.  When I tried to work with a mid tone green instead it refused to flow and dry as expected.  It was unusually hot for England and perhaps that had something to do with it?  I was left with tide marks and no transition between light and dark areas.  In the end I tried to glaze with the base colour over everything and this made it less extreme, but its still not how it was supposed to be.  I still have 236 models to paint though and lots more to buy so I’m keeping it as it is for now.

 

Paints Used

GW Nuln Oil

VMC highl ItalianT. Crew 331

VMC Italian Tankcrew 327

VMC Luftwaffe Cam. Green

VMC Military Green

Everything was given an even coat of VMC Military green.  This took 3ish coats and ended up super glossyEverything was given an even coat of VMC Military green. This took 3ish coats and ended up super glossy
Everything green was washed with GW Nuln OilEverything green was washed with GW Nuln Oil
The surfaces were highlighted/reclaimed using thinned VMC Luftwaffe Cam. GreenThe surfaces were highlighted/reclaimed using thinned VMC Luftwaffe Cam. Green
The guide called for the next highlight to be a thinned 1:2 mix of VMC highl ItalianT. Crew & VMC Italian Tankcrew 327 but that came out too extreme for me so I went for just the Italian Tank Crew.  It did not flow right.  I did some later edge/extreme highlighting using the 1:2 mixThe guide called for the next highlight to be a thinned 1:2 mix of VMC highl ItalianT. Crew & VMC Italian Tankcrew 327 but that came out too extreme for me so I went for just the Italian Tank Crew. It did not flow right. I did some later edge/extreme highlighting using the 1:2 mix
Given my dissatisfaction I tried to smooth things over with many layers of a glaze of the base colourGiven my dissatisfaction I tried to smooth things over with many layers of a glaze of the base colour
The ball was given 2-3 coats of VGC Black Green Ink.  It hasn't worked as well as the brown ink I used on the last ball, but it'll do.The ball was given 2-3 coats of VGC Black Green Ink. It hasn't worked as well as the brown ink I used on the last ball, but it'll do.

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