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Spring cleaning a Stompa! CLEANED!

Spring cleaning a Stompa! CLEANED!

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Project Blog by carlospictor

Recommendations: 318

About the Project

Taking up the Spring Cleaning Hobby challenge, I am going to finish building, painting and basing the Mr Potato Head Stompa I started over a decade ago! He's been languishing in a box for 10 years, so it's time to get this bad-boy built!

This Project is Completed

Spring Cleaning, Cleaned!

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 4
4 Comments

And with the final details plus a good spray of varnish, Mr Stomptato is done.

I am so pleased with how this model has come together and how much the paintjob has brought the whole model together.

If I could do it again, I’d probably do more detail at the building stage to make it more Orkified, and I may come back in the future to add some more bits like Rokkits. But, for a project to finish something that I started so long ago, which has been languishing in a box for 10 years, I am really pleased.

Spring Cleaning, Cleaned!
Spring Cleaning, Cleaned!
Spring Cleaning, Cleaned!
Spring Cleaning, Cleaned!

What's that, coming over the hill? Is it a monster?

Tutoring 0
Skill 2
Idea 2
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No, it’s a stompa!

That’s Mr Stomptato to his friends.

What's that, coming over the hill? Is it a monster?

Gretchin, moll

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Skill 5
Idea 1
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Hurrah! I finished the Gretchin lookout. Really happy with the finished miniature – he looks cool and cheeky!

Ready to be glued to the lookout tower.

AfterAfter
BeforeBefore

Dust. Low in fat, so you can eat as much as you like!

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Skill 5
Idea 3
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I’m really happy with Mr Stomptato so far, so I hope I haven’t ruined him by trying weathering powders.

I’m still getting used to these and don’t always get the effect I want, but I like experimenting with them.

Dust on the shoeDust on the shoe
More dust, on the other shoeMore dust, on the other shoe
Rust in the recesses of the gun armRust in the recesses of the gun arm
Rust in the recesses of his mouthRust in the recesses of his mouth
Sooty carbonised smoke stackSooty carbonised smoke stack

Base, how low can you go?

Tutoring 1
Skill 4
Idea 3
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To finish the base, I wanted to add some desert plants.

Using the Citadel plants, I painted some with Lothern Forest. Then washed them with Athonian Camoshade, and finally drybrushed them with Ogryn Camo.

Carefully snipped, they go straight onto the base.

Its really simple, but looks great.

In future, I’ll probably spray and complete sprues at a time so I’ve always got some ready to go.

BasecoatedBasecoated
Washed and drybrushedWashed and drybrushed
Snipped off the sprue and glued straight onSnipped off the sprue and glued straight on

I'm all about that base, about that base...

Tutoring 1
Skill 3
Idea 3
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Now that I’m really happy with the painting across the Mr Stomptato, its time to start all the finishing details and touches that make a model “complete”.

As it’s the last messy job, I’m going to get the base done.

For ease, I’m sticking to a tried and tested desert type basing effect.

  • I’ve already glued some pieces of bark onto the base as rocks, and then used PVA Wood glue to add some fine gravel.
  • Next, I painted the whole base in XV-88.
  • Once dry, drybrush with Ushabti Bone and then Pallid Wych Flesh
  • Wash with Seraphim Sepia. I go for an even wash, and then while wet a heavier wash underneath the model to make a deeper shadow effect.
  • Finally, once dry – a lighter drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh to brighten the edges.
I'm all about that base, about that base...

Transfer time

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Skill 3
Idea 1
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With all the body work completed, my next stages are adding details. I’ve chipped and scratched the paint work, and probably should have done the transfers first, but I’m going to apply a few to add some detailing.

I know there are special transfer dissolver solutions and things out there, but the method I’ve described below works for me, with just basic tools.

Some old Ork transfers, this one is a skull and crossbones, carefullly cut out of the sheetSome old Ork transfers, this one is a skull and crossbones, carefullly cut out of the sheet
Apply a coat of gloss varnish to the area the transfer will go ontoApply a coat of gloss varnish to the area the transfer will go onto
Put the transfer in a small saucer of water. I use a Nigella Lawson egg shaped saucer, but cheaper alternatives are available ;)Put the transfer in a small saucer of water. I use a Nigella Lawson egg shaped saucer, but cheaper alternatives are available ;)
Once the transfer slides off the backing paper, lift it up with a soft brush and slide onto the area with the gloss varnish. The varnish gives you a good smooth surface. Leave it for a few minutes, then carefully apply another coat of gloss. This seals the transfer down really well. Once the transfer slides off the backing paper, lift it up with a soft brush and slide onto the area with the gloss varnish. The varnish gives you a good smooth surface. Leave it for a few minutes, then carefully apply another coat of gloss. This seals the transfer down really well.
Here you can see a finished transfer, with the varnish over the top.Here you can see a finished transfer, with the varnish over the top.
Once dry, I then go over with a coat of Lahmian Medium to matte it all back down so I can see how seamlessly it blends into the surface. You shouldnt see any transfer edges.Once dry, I then go over with a coat of Lahmian Medium to matte it all back down so I can see how seamlessly it blends into the surface. You shouldnt see any transfer edges.

Red, all is red

Tutoring 2
Skill 7
Idea 5
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Not a big update at the moment, but a little more progress while I put together a tutorial on transfers.

Been carrying on with painting red. This time, got the thighs and shoes done.

Red, all is red
Red, all is red

The main areas left to paint now are the armour panels on his back, the white parts of his shoes and the white panels that make up his underpants.

Yes, you read that right – Mr Stomptato is wearing a Bowler Hat AND Underpants.

Classy!

Chips'n'Scratchins'

Tutoring 5
Skill 6
Idea 6
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With all the base colours down on the Armour plates, the next stage is to add some weathering.

There are so many ways to do weathering and chips on models, and there are loads of people who can do jaw-droppingly realistic chips using sponging, salt and hairspray etc.

My method is just using paint and brush, creating a very graphic cartoony style, but which I like.

Paints needed:

  • Abaddon black
  • Runefang Steel
  • Wild Rider Red
  • Lugganoth Orange
With Wild Rider Red and a little Lugganoth Orange, brush on some lines to represent scratches. I do some lines on there own, and in other places a kind of cross-hatching.With Wild Rider Red and a little Lugganoth Orange, brush on some lines to represent scratches. I do some lines on there own, and in other places a kind of cross-hatching.
Looking at the plates, add little marks and blemishes using some thinned down Abaddon black. You want them to look random, but also where it looks like paint might get chipped.Looking at the plates, add little marks and blemishes using some thinned down Abaddon black. You want them to look random, but also where it looks like paint might get chipped.
Apply Runefang Steel inside the blotches, leaving a thin line of black around the edges.Apply Runefang Steel inside the blotches, leaving a thin line of black around the edges.
Finally, using Wild Rider Red and Lugganoth Orange, highlight the chips by painting a thin line along the bottom edges of each blotch. Dot the rivets with Runefang Steel (they'll each receive a wash and some streaking in a later stage)Finally, using Wild Rider Red and Lugganoth Orange, highlight the chips by painting a thin line along the bottom edges of each blotch. Dot the rivets with Runefang Steel (they'll each receive a wash and some streaking in a later stage)

Step-by-step: Painting the red armour plating

Tutoring 4
Skill 5
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Paints used, going from darkest to lightestPaints used, going from darkest to lightest
Thin down the Wazdakka red, and using a large-ish brush, Thin down the Wazdakka red, and using a large-ish brush, "spoldge" the red onto the plates, concentrating on the middles and around the rivets
Then, repeat with Wild Rider Red very thinned down, again on the middlesThen, repeat with Wild Rider Red very thinned down, again on the middles
Go over one more time with Wild Rider to brighten the colourGo over one more time with Wild Rider to brighten the colour
Do this on all the plates and you get a nice blotchy bright redDo this on all the plates and you get a nice blotchy bright red
Mix in some Lugganoth Orange and keep going, making the area smaller stillMix in some Lugganoth Orange and keep going, making the area smaller still
It looks nicely highlighted and orkishly messyIt looks nicely highlighted and orkishly messy
Once dry, a nice even coat of Bloodletter glaze over all the platesOnce dry, a nice even coat of Bloodletter glaze over all the plates
This brings the colours together and reinvigorates the redThis brings the colours together and reinvigorates the red

Leave all this to dry, and then we can move onto some weathering and chipping!

Get Da Boyz Togetha- we gotz one morr job

Tutoring 1
Skill 3
Idea 2
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Much digging in boxes – eventually into the attic – and I found the Stompa Commander I made 10 years ago!

I painted him back then, and he looks okay – but I think I’ll freshen him up in a few places and smooth out some of the finish.

The Grot is going to be standing on the Skull Glyph at the back, kinda like a Crows’ nest.

Every driver needs to be pointing where he wants to go. I think it's a hobby law!Every driver needs to be pointing where he wants to go. I think it's a hobby law!
Grots might be feeble, but they've got no fear of heightsGrots might be feeble, but they've got no fear of heights

Got my eye on you!

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Skill 7
Idea 5
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Am working on a tutorial post for the armour panelling which is well underway, but in the meantime – here’s a big ol’ eyeball!

Got my eye on you!

Blocking in those colours

Tutoring 2
Skill 5
Idea 4
4 Comments
Here, all the basic areas of colour have been blocked in. It's fairly neat, but I don't mind a little patchiness at this stage - it's more to define areas and create a base for washes, to then build back up fromHere, all the basic areas of colour have been blocked in. It's fairly neat, but I don't mind a little patchiness at this stage - it's more to define areas and create a base for washes, to then build back up from
Blocking in those colours
And with a healthy dose of washes applied. Nuln Oil over all the metal work, Druchii Violet over all the red and Seraphim Sepia over all the cream. Washes on big models always depress me as this is the point that the model looks its worst - dirty and dark. But! it's all gonna get brigther from here on out!And with a healthy dose of washes applied. Nuln Oil over all the metal work, Druchii Violet over all the red and Seraphim Sepia over all the cream. Washes on big models always depress me as this is the point that the model looks its worst - dirty and dark. But! it's all gonna get brigther from here on out!

Basecoating begins

Tutoring 2
Skill 6
Idea 6
2 Comments

I spent a day or so thinking about the colours for Mr Stomptato (yes, this is his official name now).

Candidates were:

  • Red – obvious choice for something Orky, and a colour I am familiar with painting and experimenting with
  • Yellow – another common colour for Orks – but am I ready to paint that much Yellow?
  • Green – how about going full Ork and painting him green, with a pink lower lip etc – making it look like a big nekkid ork? Or would it end up looking like a fat Gherkin?
But, in the end I went for Red. This is the first coat of Citadel WazDakka Red on all the areas that will be redBut, in the end I went for Red. This is the first coat of Citadel WazDakka Red on all the areas that will be red

What do you think? Is red a good choice, let me know in the comments?

Stomptimus Prime(d)!

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Skill 5
Idea 5
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Just a quick update for now – but I’ve hit the model all over with Citadel Leadbelcher. It’s a great dark metal to start as a primer and basecoat for building up from.

Immediately, all those random pieces of junk are tied together and look like a cohesive model.

Am really happy 🙂

Stomptimus Prime(d)!
Stomptimus Prime(d)!
Stomptimus Prime(d)!
Stomptimus Prime(d)!
Stomptimus Prime(d)!
Stomptimus Prime(d)!

Stomptato - Assemble!

Tutoring 4
Skill 8
Idea 8
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Some busy time with glue and various objects and clamps to hold it together and we now have a fully assembled Mr Stomptato!

Stomptato - Assemble!
Stomptato - Assemble!
Stomptato - Assemble!
Stomptato - Assemble!
Stomptato - Assemble!
Stomptato - Assemble!

Next stage – priming!

Glueing time!

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 3
No Comments
Evo-stick Impact adhesive. Some applied to the foot, some to the base. leave for 5-10 minutes and then bosh them togetherEvo-stick Impact adhesive. Some applied to the foot, some to the base. leave for 5-10 minutes and then bosh them together
I've stuck the foot very close to the base edge so that the body of the Stompa is more centralI've stuck the foot very close to the base edge so that the body of the Stompa is more central
With the foot set, I was then able to make a hole to position the lower leg in a good bent poseWith the foot set, I was then able to make a hole to position the lower leg in a good bent pose
More impact adhesive on both parts of the lower leg. As I said, it's gunky but sets really strong on these incompatible materialsMore impact adhesive on both parts of the lower leg. As I said, it's gunky but sets really strong on these incompatible materials

Reworking the arms

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Skill 5
Idea 6
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One thing I was never convinced by on Mr Stomptato when I first built him was the durability of the upper arms. They certainly looked Orky, but had very thin contact points to join to the body and I genuinely didn’t know how to get them to stay securely.

Digging around my Bits Boxes, I found some GW industrial scenery pieces and also a couple of bags of Mantic Terrain Crate pipes. These look like they’ll do the job well. Sure, I lose a little bit of character, but I gain in robustness and some easier posing.

A bunch of Mantic pipe bitsA bunch of Mantic pipe bits
Showing the new pipe glued on the buzzsaw arm and the old arm assemblyShowing the new pipe glued on the buzzsaw arm and the old arm assembly
Showing the new pipe glued on the gatling gun arm and the old arm assemblyShowing the new pipe glued on the gatling gun arm and the old arm assembly

Are you riveted to your seat for this entry?

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Skill 4
Idea 5
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Last time for the pun as promised!

All the rivets are now on, and this is what they look like all over.

Are you riveted to your seat for this entry?
Are you riveted to your seat for this entry?
Are you riveted to your seat for this entry?

Another riveting entry

Tutoring 5
Skill 7
Idea 8
No Comments

Don’t worry, just one more post where I’ll trot out this bad pun – promise!

Here’s how I got the rivets done.

First, use a small drill bit to drill pits wherever you want rivets. As it's Ork tech, I've tried to be tidy but not too tidyFirst, use a small drill bit to drill pits wherever you want rivets. As it's Ork tech, I've tried to be tidy but not too tidy
Pour your rivets (tiny beads) into a pot so you can keep them in one placePour your rivets (tiny beads) into a pot so you can keep them in one place
Pour some superglue onto a non-absorbent surface. Citadel palette pad is great. Use a cocktail stick to pick up a bead and touch it to the gluePour some superglue onto a non-absorbent surface. Citadel palette pad is great. Use a cocktail stick to pick up a bead and touch it to the glue
Quickly, place the bead onto a pit. Push and twist the stick as you do to secure the bead, and remove the stick.Quickly, place the bead onto a pit. Push and twist the stick as you do to secure the bead, and remove the stick.

Repeat that over every panel, until all your rivets are glued into place.

Finishing some details, and feeling sorry for myself

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 5
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Having been unwell the last 2 weeks, I’m still feeling really grotty. Being unwell from work is rubbish, but from my sick-bed (okay, front room!) I managed to get a little work done today.

Before I can go too much further on assembling Mr Stomptato, I need to finish off some core details on his body. Mainly this is about the chimneys and exhaust ports and the power cables.

Chimneys made from old biros and marker pens. Surprisingly resistant to both plastic glue and superglue, in the end Evo-stik instant adhesive was my friend. Gunky to work with, but makes a strong bond.Chimneys made from old biros and marker pens. Surprisingly resistant to both plastic glue and superglue, in the end Evo-stik instant adhesive was my friend. Gunky to work with, but makes a strong bond.
Power cabling now fixed into place under the Gatling armpitPower cabling now fixed into place under the Gatling armpit
Power cabling glued in place under the Buzzsaw armpitPower cabling glued in place under the Buzzsaw armpit

Hot legs!

Tutoring 3
Skill 5
Idea 8
No Comments

Recalling how I made the legs…

The pelvis running through Mr Stompato comes from an old printer or toner cartridge

The thighs are those sticky rollers (Pentel I think) after they’d been used up.

The shins and calfs are spring pens.

Joints are made from round bases, plastic cogs – anything really!

Hot legs!
Hot legs!

A riveting entry

Tutoring 8
Skill 9
Idea 10
No Comments

I’m using deliberately big and cartoony rivets on this model. The rivets are tiny beads I bought on a well-known auction site. They can be glued straight on, but are more secure if you drill a small pit for them to sit in. Tweezers and a pin are your friend for super-glueing!

A riveting entry
A riveting entry

Keep on running

Tutoring 3
Skill 6
Idea 7
No Comments

Here’s a close-up of the completed shoe. This foot is going to be raised from the ground, hence the detailing underneath. The second shoe (to complete) will be on the base. The overall pose will betaking a big stride.

Keep on running

So, what are we dealing with?

Tutoring 5
Skill 7
Idea 9
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This is what I’m starting with:

  • A mostly built body, in need of repair and rivets
  • A buzzsaw arm, in need to final detailing
  • A gatling arm – in need of detailing and tidying up
  • A shoe – in need of final plasticard details
  • Various bitz and gubbinz

Not shown is the Ork commander that is in another bitz box to be found…

In the next post, I’ll add some details of the build to date and the materials used.