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Dan Does the Underhive: Delaque Gang

Dan Does the Underhive: Delaque Gang

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Project Blog by darkdanegan

Recommendations: 27

About the Project

Time to get my Necromunda on!

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House Delaque - The Silent Ones

Tutoring 2
Skill 2
Idea 3
2 Comments
Cxauth ‘The Night Serpent’Cxauth ‘The Night Serpent’
Naath ‘Whisperblade’Naath ‘Whisperblade’
House Delaque - The Silent Ones

Getting The Paint On 2

Tutoring 2
Skill 2
Idea 2
No Comments
Rakarth Flesh base for the skin with a diluted Reikland Fleshade wash. Looks terrible at this stage but that’s fine. Rakarth Flesh base for the skin with a diluted Reikland Fleshade wash. Looks terrible at this stage but that’s fine.
The main warm tone and spot colour is built up using these colours. This will establish the colour contrast I’m after.The main warm tone and spot colour is built up using these colours. This will establish the colour contrast I’m after.
Usual silver recipe for all the cyberware on the heads. Usual silver recipe for all the cyberware on the heads.
Re-established Rakarth Flesh before a final highlight of Flayed One FleshRe-established Rakarth Flesh before a final highlight of Flayed One Flesh
This is the cool bit. Fuegan orange shaded into recesses around the eyes and cyberware. This reinforces the colour contrast, a hint of OSL and just a general feeling that all those implants are doing them no good at all!This is the cool bit. Fuegan orange shaded into recesses around the eyes and cyberware. This reinforces the colour contrast, a hint of OSL and just a general feeling that all those implants are doing them no good at all!
Eyes are done using the same recipe as before and we’re almost there. Eyes are done using the same recipe as before and we’re almost there.
Bases are simply a drybrush of silver (Pig Iron) over the black primed base. Then a wash of 50:50 Mournfang Brown and Lahmian Medium. Another silver drybrush then mash in some rusty weathering powders. Another very light silver drybrush, a black rim and they are done.Bases are simply a drybrush of silver (Pig Iron) over the black primed base. Then a wash of 50:50 Mournfang Brown and Lahmian Medium. Another silver drybrush then mash in some rusty weathering powders. Another very light silver drybrush, a black rim and they are done.
Quick once over to tidy up any dodgy bits and we’re done!Quick once over to tidy up any dodgy bits and we’re done!

Ooh and I meant to say, they were all given a coat of matt varnish all over and then I airbrushed satin varnish back over the coats to give them a bit of leathery shine. I think this helps to re-establish the deep inky look I was after originally.

Getting the Paint on

Tutoring 4
Skill 5
Idea 5
2 Comments
When I saw them I had to have them. The Delaque gang look right up my street. There’s a cyberpunky feel to them which I hope to bring out in the paint job.When I saw them I had to have them. The Delaque gang look right up my street. There’s a cyberpunky feel to them which I hope to bring out in the paint job.
Primer on - blasted Vallejo black primer through the Badger Patriot 105 airbrush.Primer on - blasted Vallejo black primer through the Badger Patriot 105 airbrush.
Basecoat on the, er, coats. Vallejo Scurvy Green through a Badger Krome airbrush, aiming for the raised areas. I’m trying to go for a deep inky look to the models.Basecoat on the, er, coats. Vallejo Scurvy Green through a Badger Krome airbrush, aiming for the raised areas. I’m trying to go for a deep inky look to the models.
Accentuating the inky green robes. Glazing scurvy green onto the folds and some very sparse edge highlighting with a mix of scurvy green and jade green. Just for that tinge of cyberpunk. Accentuating the inky green robes. Glazing scurvy green onto the folds and some very sparse edge highlighting with a mix of scurvy green and jade green. Just for that tinge of cyberpunk.
Getting the silver on. In this case Pig Iron from P3 which is my favourite. Equivalent to GW Leadbelcher in colour but I find it is slightly thinner whilst still covering well with just one coat, so a bit easier to work with. And a pot seems to last forever!Getting the silver on. In this case Pig Iron from P3 which is my favourite. Equivalent to GW Leadbelcher in colour but I find it is slightly thinner whilst still covering well with just one coat, so a bit easier to work with. And a pot seems to last forever!
Time to start introducing some warm colours to contrast with the cool green. I saw on Facebook that someone had gone for an orange spot colour on green robed models and I really liked it. Quick consultation of the colour wheel to confirm that I need a red/orange to compliment the green/blue robes.Time to start introducing some warm colours to contrast with the cool green. I saw on Facebook that someone had gone for an orange spot colour on green robed models and I really liked it. Quick consultation of the colour wheel to confirm that I need a red/orange to compliment the green/blue robes.
First warm colour is a fuegan orange wash to tint the rebreathers and gubbins. Way too strong on its own so a drybrush of Pig Iron to bring back the silver. I only want a hint of orange on the metals.First warm colour is a fuegan orange wash to tint the rebreathers and gubbins. Way too strong on its own so a drybrush of Pig Iron to bring back the silver. I only want a hint of orange on the metals.
Next warm colour is Balthasar Gold for the posh bits. Wash of Agrax Earthshade.Next warm colour is Balthasar Gold for the posh bits. Wash of Agrax Earthshade.
Pouches are also warm with some orange in the brown. Rhinox Hide, Nuln Oil wash and Mournfang Brown highlight. Pouches are also warm with some orange in the brown. Rhinox Hide, Nuln Oil wash and Mournfang Brown highlight.

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