Resolution 2022: Hobby Bingo!

For those of you who followed my resolution projects from the last two years, you will know that I have now completed painting all the models in my “backlog”. That has left me free to pursue any models I want going forward.

So this year I’ve decided to set myself a hobby bingo challenge. Anybody who still reads White Dwarf will know that their studio staff did this last year as part of dealing with the pandemic lockdowns. A quick google revealed that the idea has been floating around for a long time in general though. Setting myself targets and almost arbitrary “to do” lists is what I enjoy so I think this will be fun.

Above is my own personal hobby bingo. I took the 2022 one from December’s White Dwarf but made some tweaks so that it suited my needs better.

First, its now system (and manufacturer) agnostic. Second, I expanded terrain to included dioramas as well. I did my first diorama a few weeks ago and quite liked it. Third, unit sizes assume 28-35mm, but I’m not limited to scale. So for example a 75mm character just occupies the slot of a large model.

When you think about it I will have to complete a model or unit every two weeks to get all 25 done in a year. Some will be easier than others but I will have to keep on-track to stand a chance of completing by the end of the year.

For many years Blood Angels were the only thing I painted, but it seems I painted my last batch just before the project system went live, so I’ve never covered them on OTT.

Having just finished watching Angels of Death on Warhammer+ I really wanted to paint up an Engineer and Dreadnought. I already own several “normal” dreadnoughts so I went for one of the Forge World dreadnoughts.

The models were undercoated with Army Painter Dragon Red Primer. I then applied a pin wash of carroburg crimson in the recesses of the armour plates. Then I highlighted the red areas wild rider red.

Areas that were to be painted silver later were then painted abaddon black, as was the Engineer’s joints.

Bone areas were painted zandri dust then highlighted ushabti bone.

Parchment areas were painted baneblade brown then highlighted rakarth flesh.

Wings were painted celestra grey then highlighted ulthuan grey.

Lenses were painted caliban green, highlighted moot green, then given a wash of beil-tan green.

Silver areas were painted leadbelcher then highlighted runefang steel.

Silver areas were basecoated  zandri dust, then painted retributor armour, then highlighted auric armour gold followed by runefang steel.

Exhaust and flamer ends were drybrushed sycorax bronze followed by screaming bell.

The red teardrops were painted as for gold, above, then given a layer of spiritstone red.

The void shield nodes were painted as for silver, above, then given a layer of Army Painter Purple Tone.

The phosphex bombs were painted as for silver, above, then given a layer of soulstone blue.

Chipping on the dreadnought was achieved using wild rider red, followed by rhinox hide then adminstratum grey.

The bases were painted astrogranite, washed with nuln oil, then drybrushed with longbeard grey. The base rims were painted mechanicus standard grey. Finally the models were flocked a bit.

Two characters that I got from the recent Moonstone Kickstarter. I particularly like the way the skin tones came out on the homunculus.

The red areas were painted with mephiston red, washed carroburg crimson, then highlighted evil sunz scarlet followed by wild rider red.

The purple areas were painted naggaroth nigh, washed druchii violet, then highlighted xereus purple followed by genestealer purple.

The yellow areas were painted iyanden darksun, washed casandora yellow, then highlighted flash gitz yellow.

Diana’s blue wings were wet blended caledor sky, teclis blue, calgar blue, and fenris grey to get a smooth gradient from tip to body. I then used abaddon black to paint on a cell like structure.

Diana’s skin was painted bugman’s glow, washed reikland fleshshade, then highlighted cadian fleshtone followed by kislev flesh.

Voth and the homunculus’ flesh was painted waaagh! flesh then highlighted warboss green followed by nurgling green.

The darker browns were painted steel legion drab, washed agrax earthshade, then highlighted tallarn flesh followed by karak stone.

The paler browns were painted zandri dust, washed agrax earthshade, then highlighted ushabti bone followed by screaming skull.

Voth’s hair was painted celestra grey then highlighted ulthuan grey followed by white scar.

The magical vortex and Voth’s magical spell effect were simply painted with aethermatic blue.

The metal areas were then painted abaddon black, then leadbelcher, then washed with nuln oil. Then they were highlighted with ironbreaker followed by runefang steel.

The moonstone shards in Diana’s vortex were painted as metal but without the wash. Then they were painted with soulstone blue.

The bases were painted with stirland mud, drybrushed with tyrant skull, and the rims were painted with abbadon black.

The last three 75mm models from the Bella Nacht kickstarter (https://bellanacht.com/characters/). All three have a similar theme so I decided to paint them as if they are three cursed sisters.

The skin was all painted rakarth flesh, washed reikland fleshshade, then highlighted flayed one flesh followed by pallid wych flesh.

Hair was painted corvus black, highlighted mechanicus standard grey, then washed nuln oil.

The stones were painted mechanicus standard grey, washed agrax earthshade, then highlighted dawnstone.

The skulls, bone, and horns were painted zandri dust, washed seraphim sepia then highlighted ushabti bone followed by screaming skull.

The red clothing was painted mephiston red, washed carroburg crimson, then highlighted evil sunz scarlet followed by wild rider red.

The pink clothing was painted screaming skull, washed druchii violet, then highlighted pink horrowfollowed by emperor’s children.

The purple clothing was painted naggaroth night, washed druchii violet, then highlighted xereus purple followed by genestealer purple.

For the white dress I wanted to achieve a transparent effect, so I had painted the areas with skin beneath as skin, above, and the areas with rock underneath as rock, above. I then mixed white scar and  lahmium medium 50:50 and used it to paint the clothing. This attained a nice transparent effect where the skin or rock beneath the clothes was visible. I then applied a second coat and largely ruined the effect. I’ll know better for next time.

This is a 3D print. Lilith from the Beauty and the Beast kickstarter (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printomancer/beauty-and-the-beast-stl-files-3d-models/description).

I wanted an un-naturally pale skin so started with a basecoat of celestra grey and then highlighted with ulthuan grey followed by white scar.

The outer wings were painted khorne red. The inner wings were painter mephiston red. They were all then drybrushed evil sunz scarlet followed by wild rider red. The recesses were washed with carroburg crimson.

Lilith’s limited clothing was painted castellan green then highlighted loren forest.

The horns were basecoated rhinox hide then highlighted doombull brown followed by tuskgor fur.

The base was painted mechanicus standard grey, washed nuln oil, then drybrushed dawnstone followed by administratum grey.

The skulls were painted zandri dust, washed seraphim sepia, then highlighted ushabti bone followed by screaming skull.

The candles were painted mephiston red with iyanden darksun candles.

This model’s huge. Since its a toy rather than a model its actually solid plastic and weighs about 1kg. It hurts my wrists to paint it for more than an hour an evening. Still I’m enjoying working in the different scale.

So far I’ve painted the skin waaagh! flesh, washed the recesses with carroburg crimson, then highlighted warboss green followed by skarsnik green. I then highlighted the scars ogryn camo.

The trousers were painted steel legion drab, washed agrax earthshade, then drybrushed tallarn sand followed by karak stone.

The blue has been painted caledor sky and then drybrushed calgar blue.

I decided the break the model up. It makes accessing all the areas much easier but to be honest I did it as my wrists were hurting after each painting session holding up the entire thing for an hour at a time.

The darker bronze areas were painted warplock bronze, washed agrax earthshade, the highlighted brass scorpion followed by runelord brass.

The lighter bronze areas were painted screaming bell, washed reikland fleshshade, then highlighted hashut copper followed by sycorax bronze.

The steel areas were painted leadbelcher, washed nuln oil, then highlighted ironbreaker followed by runefang steel.

Then I painted the newly exposed areas wraithbone.

Finally finished. I’ve been working on this for about a month, which is a long time for one of my projects.

The pipes were painted with a variety of contrast paints: warp lightning, plaguebearer flesh, aethermatic blue, iyanden yellow, gryph-hound orange, or blood angels red.

The cloth straps were painted snakebite leather and the teeth pendants were painted skeleton horde.

The detail areas were picked out in abaddon black then either left black, or painted white scar or khorne red.

The chips were painted ironbreaker as a form of weathering.

The lenses were painted spiritstone red over ironbreaker.

A few tips I’ve picked up from painting one of the McFarlane Artist Proofs:

• Carefully break the model down into its key parts to make handling the big model easier and to allow access to all areas.
• If you can, apply the basecoat with a spray gun or can. In hindsight I could have saved a lot of time if I’d sprayed this model blue.
• Set realistic expectations – I wanted to try and paint more detail than I normally would, ignoring the fact that the canvas area is perhaps 100 times bigger than a typical 28mm character model. Trying to stick to this would have really dragged me down and it’s why I started using contrast paints for the second half of the project.