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The Weekender XLBS: Hobby & A Reincarnation of Games Day?
July 27, 2014 by lloyd
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Happpppppyyyyyyy Suuuuunnnnnddddaayyyy!
Happy Sundayyyyyyyyyyy!
To strip down the paint from minis you can use oven cleaner. Scale modeler also use it to strip down chrome-plated plastic parts. Thats very effective. Just put the parts in for some minutes at the paint will disappear. You can also use brake fluid. But that stuff is more expensive and a little bit hazardous.
Lloyd’s creativity with terrain always blows me away. Another ingenius idea!
Great job guys. I’d be careful with detol on some plastics and resin, seen some pretty horrendous bendy minis after bad reactions with that stuff. Dropzone resin and X Wing minis have had some bad examples, could be the porous nature of the resin maybe.
Cheers for the pdf Lloyd, ingenious as ever.
Try Fairy Power spray, its fantastic stuff
I second this, just use it over night. Pour it into a container and leave the minis to soak. Wash off with a toothbrush and a bit of warm soapy water. I’ve used it to strip quite a lot of miniatures. Tends to break down superglue as well and sometimes JB quick weld.
A slightly safer way to unclog the revell glue applicator: hot wire cutter wire.
I used Denatured Ethanol (Called T-Röd in Swedish) to strip the paint from my Guard army and it worked very well. It takes a while but it wont hurt the plastic at all, let them sit in it for a day or two and then use a small brush to remove the paint. I actually forgot some miniatures in a bowl for a month and no harm done to them.
Fixing mini’s is easy, try pinning. Use the small jewellers drill bits and a pin vice for the fine work. Use the dremel for larger work. Notes of caution, careful using a dremel on small plastic and especially resin as the drill bit heats and can melt fine miniature parts, use the pin vice for these. Paperclips or fine wire (and broken Drill bits) are then used as pins into the parts and glued with superglue. It reduces the time needed to hold parts together as the pins increase the surface area on the bond. This is an especially useful method for conversion work. A friend has used this to covert his entire Space Elf army so that not one miniature is positioned like another.
All of this! There’s not many minis I don’t pin just as par for course. Brass rod works well for the pin itself.
To strip miniatures I use windex, which is a window cleaner containing ammonia-d, let the mini soak for 20-30 mins then use an old toothbrush to remove the paint. If there is a lot of layers or the paint is on very thick it might takes more than one attempt.
your the best thank you
for plastic and metal I use break fluid.
I know break fluid can melt plastic, but you would need to leave it in for about 4 days for it to start affecting the quality of the detail (tested on a genestealer)
dont know about resin though…
try using nail varnish remover on plastic mini’s, i use it alot, however i will say it will remove the glue as well, so the mini will fall apart, it wont remove most super glues, but the standard plastic glues will be removed, but ive found some times thats a good thing, especially when i have bought second hand mini’s that have been badly glued together, it takes about 30 mins to remove all the paint, using a old paint brush just to clean off the hard to reach areas, 1 word of warming though, dont leave the mini’s in the nail vernish remover over night, as it will damage them, its something to actively use, and always wash the mini in water afterwards, else when you come to paint it again some thin sprays wont sick very well, but once you’ve got used to using the nail varnish remover, it works very well
Another great vid.
Have you changed the way it is streamed, as for the past three weeks the video will freeze, but the sound keeps going.
It only happens on XLBS.
i watch on my iPad
Hi @laager50, so you can watch the recent Hobby Lab videos with no disruption then?
Im having the same problem as @laager50. XLBS freezes and has been doing so for a few weeks. Rest of the videos work without a hitch though.
Im on a macbook pro with the latest OS installed and updated. Im in Firefox
Nitromors Paint stripper. The key is in the words…. “paint stripper” gives you a pretty good idea what it does. For metal only mind you. Already got my warhammer fest tickets, cant be any worse than last years gamesday, i certainly wont be expecting any games this time.
I found when they changed to the ‘New Formula’ it didn’t work as well. Used to be a clear gel and then changed to green. The old formula I could actually see the paint melting off. It was brilliant.
I’ve got a few tins of the old stuff, I’ve found if you can be bothered to sieve the bits of paint out, its good for a couple of stripping’s. Only downsides (apart from using on metal only) if you don’t wash it thoroughly, it can affect any paint applied afterwards and if you don’t use in a well ventilated area, makes you as sick as a pig lol
Have got to say that I have really enjoyed the weekenders with Lloyd in the chair, they have been great fun watching with a constant grin on my face – well done 😀
Fairy power spray works, but the whole point of using household products is to save money, and fairy power spray isnt cheap.
You can get a big tub of proper plastic model stripper that will last a long time that doesnt smell so much and works very well.
Can’t remember where I got mine from, a tamiya model kit stockist I think, but this at ebay is a similar product. Yes, it costs more than a power spray bottle but it will do 5 times as many models.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/251584279808?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0
Castrol Super Clean. Comes in a purple container (in the States) and is a purple liquid. I have left minis in it for weeks. Works great on plastic and metal. I have never used it on resin though. I usually use a toothbrush to scrub it off after soaking.
I use nail polish remover for metal minis, leave them to soak then use an old toothbrush. Plastics I don’t bother. I have heard of simply green as mention but never tried it. As for models that break – Dark Eldar minis. I love the army they look awesome but man they are a pain the A** to transport. and they are plastic.
I love the Smog minis, I wish they’d do a better game for them. I’ve used Gorilla Glue quite a lot and never had an issue with it. It is possible for a company to do a multi-day event and fill it with loads of stuff to do. Privateer Press run their in-house event over three days, but they fill it with lots of gaming as well seminars and whatnot.
Acetone works well on metal minis but will melt plastic into sludge.
So you’re saying use it on your Centurions to make them look better?
BOOM!
ZING!
Gamesday was broke and needed fixing.
@8:30 missed beep?
Cosplay Bloodball?
Fixing metal models joints? For big models with heavy arms/wings etc. try something called Sugru (was a KS a couple of years ago). It’s a bit like a pre-mix greenstuff, except this cures into a more ‘rubbery’ material and can act as an adhesive. The rubber property actually gives the joints a bit of dampening/give and heavy arms/wings tend not to ‘snap’ off quite as much.
If the joint does break then you can use the previous sugru as a gasket and glue it back on.
I’ve used DOT-4 brake fluid to strip paint from plastic and metal miniatures. It works well and at least the brands I’ve used do not melt plastic, even if I’ve left (forgotten) the models in for weeks or months. The brake fluid softens the paint in about 24h after which you can use an old toothbrush to clean the minies.
Dot 3 – Break Fluid for stripping models. 3 Days soak. Resin, Plastic and Metal.
Even works for Fine-Cast
Sam and Lloyd are hilarious, love those guys.
Think Justin should have just said they were not painted to his liking….not cool to publicly announce that some is crap at this or that.
Other than that great XLBS.
Maybe when Warren returns, Justin can be publicly flogged….
Hi @wendern, glad you liked the show, but to be fare it was more me putting Justin in that position on the show for some banter.
And what is wrong with a public flogging? Maybe you could get Warren to do it in his Man-kini while the weather is good…… 🙂
LOL to late it’s back to being Ireland again here!
Break fluid will strip paint off all types of miniatures, but it will take weeks! It works really well though.
I use dettol (branded! unbranded stuff never works) on all my minis. Leave you minis in for about a day and you should be able to take a toothbrush to them and get all the paint off.
Sam, are you putting the minis in undiluted dettol? You can add water to the dettol and it will still work, but using it undiluted is much more powerful!
A great XLBS folks! Use fine wire to clear the nozzle of Revell Glue – what if the dispenser catches fire! I pin model joints that look weak or have small contact surface areas, super glue zip kicker can also help to give a stronger, quicker bond. Mr Muscle spray oven cleaner for enamel paints and fairy power spray for acrylics (I pour the power spay into a jar and keep swapping models into it until it no longer works)
i use fairy power spray its cheeper than Dettol no smell and works fast 🙂
Another good show boys! Well done.
Steam do a fairly good version of Catan currently £11.99. The AI is not that bad if you want a quick blast and you have no one to play with.
Unfortunately, the video freezes at certain points, so missed out on a few parts. Overall, though, I like Lloyd as a moderator, you should be appointed regularly.
Re Warhammer (Oktober-)Fest: so GW scrap all the regional events in favour of a single one in Ol’ Blighty? Not sure if that’s the way to ‘spread the word’, when at the same time they avoid presence at any of the major gaming conventions/fairs throughout Europe & the US (and beyond?) like hell. Of course, people will still visit that event in numbers, even if there’s nothing to do other than shopping full-price items, staring at ‘demo’ tables and listening to company drivel. I’m actually sad, since I (like many) was introduced to wargaming via GW products, and it wasn’t a bad start – back in the day.
@siregodefroy do you have any problems watching the latest Hobby Lab videos? If there’s a problem play this but not them knowing about it could help track down the problem.
Well, just tested it: Hobby Lab starts just fine. But there’s the same issue as with most Backstage vids – if watched full-screen, they begin to stutter. Maybe the total breakdown with this XLBS show has the same source. No problems watching videos on Youtube, though, so I think it’s an issue rooted in the combination of my machine (Mac), browser (Firefox) and the player in use here. Encountering that I switched browsers (Safari by default), and no issues there. Haven’t tried it with this show yet.
Great show guys, Justin appears to be morphing into Karl Pilkington!
I had to google him, the name sounded familiar but I couldn’t quite remember from where…
So this was the “An idiot outside” episode 🙂
If you want to avoid breakage, use pinning. Drill small holes into the joints and connect them with a metal pin, can almost garuntee pinned joints will not break. GW stuff is very easy to pin because of the scale.
Things like infinity and such aren’t so easy to pin because they are tiny by comparison.
I use fairy power spray for stripping my plastics, but it usually struggles to get them stripped past the basecoat and the undercoat is always visible in patches. It doesn’t strip completely, but it’s enough to repaint them.
Hen’s Teeth in America = I’ve heard some people out west say it. I always thought it was a “country/western” saying. 🙂
I stripped a warhound titan by soaking the parts in Simple Green Concentate for less than 24 hours and then I was able to scrub the paint off with an old toothbrush. It did no noticable damage.
For combination metal and plastic minis I use two part epoxy. It takes a few minutes to dry but it gives a good bond that is not as brittle as super glue. It does take a few minutes to dry so I try and brace the figure to keep everything in place so I don’t have to hold it.
I use Super Clean, it extra strength detergent used to remove oil stains from clothes. I pick up a Walmart here in the states. You can use Super Clean on metal, plastic and resin without the miniature melting. Super Clean will eat through epoxy putty, so do not use it on green stuff. It takes a few days for the paint to loosen up. I have kept miniatures in Super Clean for months, they came out looking fine.
I use Simply Green for its biodegradability. I used to use various purple degreasers available commercially: these, when fresh out of the bottle, gave good stripping on both metal and plastic (polystyrene) overnight soak. But, they will also remove all the oils from your hands, so wear gloves to avoid dry skin. Will have to give Windex a try.
Another great show. I’ve never used anything except detol… maybe you had a dodgy batch as per the super glue
I know about the breaking problems of the old Broadside Battlesuits. Putting heavy metal parts on a plastic support just doesn’t work. Eventually I used nails to pin everything and even then I had to attach some extra parts (shield generator) to keep the arms from falling off.
I’m looking to get one of the new models to expand my force and get rid of all the metal parts. I intend to use the old body with the new missile pods. The metal railguns should work great in a custom built gun emplacement to use against all those pesky new flyers.
Cool beans ;0)
Great show! It’s nice to see other people talk besides Warren!, but I do admit I kinda miss him now!
Long Live BOW
The metal Tomb Kings Tomb Scorpion. Worst! Model! Ever! For assembly/breakage that is. You could encase that in frozen carbonite and it’d still fall apart.
i use fairy oven cleaner in spray to clean models, don’t do any damage to minis ever and works fine, use tooth brush as usually.
I have used simple green on metal and plastic model with good results. I am getting even better results from Purple Power. I get that at Wal Mart.
Revell glue. For years now I always throw the plastic cap away and replace it by sticking a sewing needle in the end. It has never blocked since I have been doing this.
Almost forgot the big shout out for Ben Yay !!
If you’re going to be stripping an entire army, you may want to look into a Ultrasonic cleaner. It seriously helped my efforts. Shouldn’t be too expensive, either… and will help that sandy/powdery textured Primer failure to come right of, provided the primer you used wasn’t self etching.
Also, Simple Green works fine on resin/plastic. Use it all the time. just makes them smell piney.
Boys, boys you have to shake your sprays. Shake it good, shake it long, and shake it a bit longer.
And with army painter spray one thing is important. Read the manual!!!!
Unlike GW spray don´t spray in short bursts. You have to spray in long bursts over the mini(s).
If you’re heating your revell glue needle to red hot it’s no surprise you’re filling the room with gluey soot. Just a quick pass along til you get the (IMO very pleasing) puff of smoke and you’re grand 🙂
Love the boarded up window print outs!
Great show guys!
Another excellent XLBS episode, full of sweat and laughs.
Lloyd, great work on those boarded up windows, I’ll probably use that idea in some future hobby project.
Justin, I use Denatured Ethanol to strip plastic miniatures. I even used it to strip some resin models (resin tanks from Battlefront). But be VERY careful, some resin will melt when dipped in Denatured Ethanol. The resin that the WarZone miniatures are made of WILL MELT if you use Denatured Ethanol on them. Metal miniatures I strip with acetone, acetone will also dissolve superglue.
Always test your stripping liquid on a miniature, before staring the stripping process!!
Sam, you actually tore Justin’s miniature in two…..
Drill and pin guys. it takes 5 min
Hydraulic fluid for metal minis
Dettol and a nail brush for plastic
Nice simple idea for boarding up the windows!
just watch the xlbs and it was hot up there BBC were in Morellis in Portstewart for the hotest day of the year, nice part of the world#