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Technique Toolbox XLBS: Basecoating 101 Q&A!
March 27, 2014 by elromanozo
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Hog hair brushes are fine for terrain work and bases and occasionally for drybrushing.
I don’t find them useful. They are too big (except perhaps for terrain as you said… but really large pieces of terrain), the hair are too thick, and they get too uncontrollable. They keep making brush strokes, as well, and you shouldn’t have that.
You get free texture effects! That’s golden on scratch-built terrain.
You can use brush stokes to create wood grain or render effects pretty easily.
Besides, I don’t fancy ruining an expensive brush slapping PVA on a base.
But what do I know, I guess I’m not a proper painter…
Oh, well, if it’s for slapping PVA…
That said, if you’re going to do wood grain, you’d probably want to sculpt it with sandpaper or use real wood, then paint it. Coffee stirrers and real woodden sticks work wonders.
Dry brushing isn’t the best technique to paint wood effect on a flat surface… Even if bad drybrushing (leaving brush strokes) is sometimes good enough. There’s a whole technique dedicated to faux wood and fauw marble. You do use the brush strokes to your advantage, just not in a haphazard fashion. It’s just not the same technique. 🙂
Excellent stuff. If we ask more questions here about this XLBS episode will you have to record an episode of XLXLBS to answer them?
I’ll get me coat.
Of course not. It’ll simply be an XXLBS episode.
And I’ll keep answering personal messages and questions in comments as long as the item still appears on the fornt page (sorry guys, but I can’t be checking all my previous videos to answer all new comments… best send me messages !)
Great follow up video! A good summary of all the questions raised and very helpful.
lots of nice in4 big thanks and just keep up the GOOOOOOOOOD work
Congratulations on the Q&A: it makes the tutorial even more useful! I would like to make two points: first a correction about sable: it is a kind of weasel, not a rodent, and then I would welcome your comments on my views about brushes in general: I have always used up my brushes rather quickly (surely something I do wrong, some systematic error in my painting “technique”) so I have to buy new ones frequently. I have found that sable brushes are really the best for detail painting but really too good for other uses. They are, after all, 2-4… Read more »
Thanks for the compliments, and for your keen interest ! My mistake, sable is indeed a type of ferret/weasel. A good brush will last a long while… Sable brushes from bad brushmakers don’t last long. Sable brushes from good brushmakers such as Isabey, Prince August, Raphael, last quite a long while. I have a few Raphael brushes that have lasted me years and are still in use ! I have found very good synthetic brushes for detailing (new materials for the bristles, apparently) from Royal and Langnickel. Even the Raphael and Prince August synthetic one are great quality and will… Read more »
Awesome info! I really enjoyed the technique toolbox and the Q&A. Thanks for the videos fellas!
I do have a question about the wet pallet you use in your videos- It appears to be a wet sponge with parchment on top, when I try this my parchment paper tends to get small bubbles and wrinkles forming underneath it which keep the moisture away from the paint (it also makes blending more painful as the paint tends to follow the crevasses and run away when I start to dilute it). Do you have any suggestions to get around this?
Thanks for the kind words !
Quite simply flatten your parchment paper with your fingers. It wrinkles now and then, it’s perfectly normal… just straighten it out when you need to. Once should be enough.
I have been known to use some of the grooves it creates to separate colours on the palette, when necessary…
Maybe your parchment paper has one “glossy” side (it happens), in which case you want to change papers : this is not the right kind. You need it to be porous on both sides.
I didn’t know there were different types of parchment paper! Thanks, I’ll play around with it and try something new if it comes down to it, need to go grocery shopping soon anyway.
Excellent vid. But you missed out… Grey Primer.
IMHO the best primer EVER is… Halfords grey primer.
Yes it’s made for cars. But it’s freaking awesome for priming minis. 😀
<3 Grey primer! It works especially well if you are going for a dull/dark look such as you might get from primarily wash painting.
IMHO, Army painter or Vallejo. I haven’t tried Halford’s just yet.
Also, I know I missed a lot, but we needed to make this quick…
Love the format, I did get an other painting tip tonight paint you mini a little brighter than you would think up close and it will stand out more on the table
Great addition to the first video. I highly enjoyed it.
Although Romain can always be relied upon to answer questions after his video’s This xlbs follow up is a great idea.
Thanks ! Since a lot of people won’t read through all the comments, we thought it’d be nice.
I would be really interested in Romain’s thoughts on how the Rackham studio paints, and how their technique differs perhaps to other studios, as they seemed to get a particular look that was quite unique at the time.
I have some thoughts, and I’ll ask around. Those painters are still around where I live, you know.
However, since you can’t find the Rackham range of paints anymore (they’re not in production and most old pots have dried from disuse), you’ll have to make do with the closest thing… P3, some of Warpaints, the odd Citadel tone, or digging through the huge mess that is the Vallejo ranges.
Yeah, obviously the available paint ranges have changed in the last 10 years or so, so it would be interesting which are used and to have some sort of updated methods and tools for that style, because there is something about it which is just – well not like how most other display models for other companies are painted.
I’ve got about half the Rackham paints and they’re all still fine. I think Ludik Bazaar in France sell the starter set very cheaply. Those painters are still painting. Martin Grandbarbe has been doing commissions for Mierce recently, as well as posting up some late-80s Citadel chaos onto Facebook. Vincent Fontaine is the art director for Dust Studios.
Great job on the vids Beasts, thanks much.
These follow-up interviews are a great addition to the tutorials. It greatly helps to clarify some things that are skipped over in favor of showing the painting of the mini.
I switched from GW paints to proper artist acrylics, to great amusement and amazement of my wargaming friends. I found them to be wonderful. The coats dried more evenly for most color and they worked much better to blend with. I haven’t found a reason yet to go back to one of the ‘official’ brands.
I am new to miniatures painting or I should say I haven’t in years and by that I mean decades. I have looked at the color options and from the way I have seen the paints go onto the miniatures I am interested in the basing options. The discussion on getting more vibrant colors from using a white (or light) primer undercoat has lead me to the a white primer. My painting is terrible but I hope to get the colors I want. Thanks for all the info that you provide on painting and keeping some of the information at… Read more »