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The Final Push – Lawnor approaches 100% painted

The Final Push – Lawnor approaches 100% painted

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Project Blog by lawnor Cult of Games Member

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About the Project

The end is in sight. Out of the 2200ish models I own I only currently have 63 left to paint, so why not share the final push with everyone and watch me accidentally buy and print faster than I paint instead of doing this

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32 MTG: Soraya

Tutoring 1
Skill 3
Idea 2
No Comments
Soraya by RN EstudiosSoraya by RN Estudios

I’ve got 4 ogres to paint so I’m doing them all at the same time and trying to tie them all together.  Probelm is, the GW guys look like they want to wear clean crisp colours and the Atlantis Miniatures ogres look like they want to be wearing dirty earthen tones.  I don’t know what I’m going to do yet, but I’ll likely head towards earthen tones.  I’ve finished the mount and painted the flesh and bones on the Ogres.  I should have them done by the end of the week.

32 MTG: Soraya

Tutoring 1
Skill 2
Idea 1
No Comments
Soraya by RN EstudiosSoraya by RN Estudios

I’ve got 4 ogres to paint so I’m doing them all at the same time and trying to tie them all together.  Probelm is, the GW guys look like they want to wear clean crisp colours and the Atlantis Miniatures ogres look like they want to be wearing dirty earthen tones.  I don’t know what I’m going to do yet, but I’ll likely head towards earthen tones.  I’ve finished the mount and painted the flesh and bones on the Ogres.  I should have them done by the end of the week.

33 MTG: Dragon Empire and Kyrie, Female Barbarian

Tutoring 3
Skill 4
Idea 4
No Comments

I painted up the last or my recent rpizes this week, all from Monkeys with Fire and donated by Reaper and Titan Forge

Kyrie, Female Barbarian by ReaperKyrie, Female Barbarian by Reaper
Fujira, Dragon Empire by Titan ForgeFujira, Dragon Empire by Titan Forge
Xianou, Dragon Empire by Titan Forge.  The flag comes in 3 parts and the shaft is maybe narrower than a paperclip and requires pinning to stay on.  Its so fragile they didn't bother to put the bottom on for the studio painted example on their web store.Xianou, Dragon Empire by Titan Forge. The flag comes in 3 parts and the shaft is maybe narrower than a paperclip and requires pinning to stay on. Its so fragile they didn't bother to put the bottom on for the studio painted example on their web store.
Raion, Dragon Empire by Titan ForgeRaion, Dragon Empire by Titan Forge

I’ve also been thinking towards future projects and done a little prep.  A year ago a friend gave me their unpainted Frostlord on Stonehorn and three sprues from its construction.  It came almost fully built.  The rider is separate and there’s 2 leather straps left on the sprue.  While working out it’s at that stage I also noticed there were enough parts on the sprue to build another ogre, so I now have an ogre crossbowman to paint too.

TTCombat Zombie Cockatrice and GW FrosthornTTCombat Zombie Cockatrice and GW Frosthorn
TT Combat Cockatrice, Atlantice Miniatures Female Ogre War Boss, Ogre built from spare parts, Frosthorn Rider, and Atlantis Miniatures Male Ogre War BossTT Combat Cockatrice, Atlantice Miniatures Female Ogre War Boss, Ogre built from spare parts, Frosthorn Rider, and Atlantis Miniatures Male Ogre War Boss
Klukva Hell Crusader II, Hell Crusader, 3dartdigital wolf, RN Estudios Soraya, and 3dartdigitals Number XXXVIIKlukva Hell Crusader II, Hell Crusader, 3dartdigital wolf, RN Estudios Soraya, and 3dartdigitals Number XXXVII

36 MTG: Prizes, Lunah, Daruma, Small World Sophie, and Jada Twinsuns

Tutoring 2
Skill 4
Idea 3
No Comments

The Monkeys With Fire anniversary stream happened recently and I won a Reaper paint set, 2 minis, and some Micro Art Studio sci-fi billboards.  Along with my prizes, I also receiver the February comminuty challenge model: Small World Sophie by Reaper

Free stuff is my favourite kind of stuffFree stuff is my favourite kind of stuff

While waiting for that box I also painted up a couple of prizes from MWF I’ve been saving from over the years.  I’ve since painted Sophie and Jada Twinsuns from the above delivery.

Daruma by Titan Forge, based on Earthbenders from Avatar The Last AirbenderDaruma by Titan Forge, based on Earthbenders from Avatar The Last Airbender
Lunah, Lunah, "Elven Ranger"from Aristeia! (A game I can never spell without help)
Small World Sophie by Reaper.  My first ever ChibiSmall World Sophie by Reaper. My first ever Chibi
Jada Twinsuns by ReaperJada Twinsuns by Reaper

37 MTG: Abomination, Klukva Demon of Lust, & Raging Heroes Shiveryah, & Nocturna Malefic Flesh set review

Tutoring 6
Skill 6
Idea 5
2 Comments

There it is.  The final model from the Conquest starter set: The Abomination.  That means all I have keft is 40 models to paint just for the fun of it, at least until the next big box arrives in a few months.

 

Spires Paint lists as a reminder to future me:

Bone

Base: P3 Jack Bone

Wash 1: Gw Seraphom Sepia

Wash 2: Handcraft Tabletop Terrain Wash Dunkelschatten / Dark brown Grey 267.01

Drybrush 1: P3 Menoth White Base

Drybrush 2: P3 Menoth White Highlight

 

Horns

Base: Mr Paint Brown-Grey

Drybrush 1: Mr Paint Dust Grey

Drybrush 2: Mr Paint Bine White

Wash/filter (Around base of each horn only): Brown-Grey with just a hint of Black

Dark Cloth

Base: P3 Coal Black

Wash: Gw Nuln Oil

Drybrush: I started with Coal Black mixed with Menoth White Base, but it was similat to p3 Trollblood Base so I switched to that for convenience.  it ended up a little more blue and less green as a result, but speed is the key to large armies

 

Burgundy Cloth (Menoth robes guide)

Base: P3 Sanguine Base

Wash: P3 Exile Blue, P3 Sanguine Base, P3 Coal Black

High 1: P3 Sangune Highlight

High 2: Sanguine Highlight & P3 Menoth White Base

 

Drone Flesh (Cryx Pallid Flesh)

Base: P3 Ryn Flesh, P3 Carnal Pink, & P3 Trollblood Highlight mix

Wash 1: Base + P3 Traitor Green

Wash 2: Wash 1 + P3 Beaten Purple

Wash 3: Beaten Purple, Traitor Green and P3 Midlund Flesh

High 1: Ryn Flesh, Carnal Pink & Pr Menoth White Highlight

 

Spire Flesh (Retribution of Scyrah Iosan Flesh)

Base: P3 Ryn Flesh and P3 Menoth White Base

Wash 1: Base + P3 Sanguine Highlight

Wash 2: Base + P3 Battledress Green

Wash 3: Sanguine Highlight and Battledress Green

High: Base + Menoth White highlight

 

Chitin

Base: 3-4 large brushes of Revell Aqua Colour Tar Black 361.06 to 1 drop VMC Turquoise 70.966 (On my first day of mixing and basing with this it came out more green than blue, but definitly dark.  When I mixed it up again later for a highlight it seemed more blue than green.  I don’t know what I did different.

Wash: GW Nuln Oil

Drybrush 1: Base

Drybrush 2: P3 Coal Black

Drybrush 3 on highest and sharpest edges only.  Keep this subtle: P3 Trollblood Base

 

Bug Eyes

Undercoat: Gloss Black

Airbrush Base: Turbo Dork Dark Net.  Only do one or two even coats and then spray from above so the colour is less strong on the undersides of the eyes.  I thought of this a little too late.

Post Varnish Treatment: I gave mine two coats of Satin varnish when all was done.

 

Red Gems

Undercoat: VGC 72.053 Chainmal

Base: Many layers ofAmmo Mig Acrylic Crystal A.MIG-093 Crystal Red.

Post Varnish Treatment:I gave them aonther coat or two to restore its glassy appearance.  This worked out better than just gloss varnish

 

Claws

Base: P3 Cryx Bane Base

Drybrush: P3 Hammerfall Khaki

Wash: I think I used GW Athonian Camoshade, but I ususally use GW Nuln Oil

 

Ceramic Mask

Base: P3 Trollblood Highlight

High 1: Added a little P3 Menoth White Base and kept adding a little more as I built up the layers

High 2: Final High 1 mix, with a little P3 Menoth White Highlight, adding more and more again

High 3: Last mix adding pure White again and again

 

Next up I chose the Demon of Lust by Klukva, bases on Slan from the manga Beserk.  I’ve not read it, but I won some Klukva vouchers a while back and I liked this model.  I’ve a large sith lady to paint soon and I’m looking for a good skin paint scheme for her so I picked up the Vallejo Nocturna Malefic Flesh set and thought I’d test out one of the three schemes on her.  I did not have the best experience.  If you have experience with this guide/set please let me know of your experiences.

Vallejo paint kits have been a mixed bag for me.  This is my fourth.  This one more so than the others had dissapointing instructions.  They aren’t instructions.  They’re a list if paints.  This might be fine for a high end painter, but for someone looking for help it’s almost worse than nothing.  Let’s take a look:

Pic 1: I have applied the recommended base colour.  Please note that it looks nothing like the image in the guide.  I am following the Purple Tones guide here.  In the pic she is light pinkish edging towards white.  On my model she is brown.  Only one paint has been asked for so far.  The colours should not be so different.  Either someone is not telling the whole truth or those pictures are really bad.

Pic 2: I started applying some of the first highlights and just no.  This is wrong.  I’m starting again.  They are clearly assuming skills and knowledge they are not discussing, if not outright lying to us.  Time for me to redo a base coat, get out my largely unused wet pallette and try doing this while reading between the lines.

So here’s what I did, more or less

Base and highlight 1: I added a little of their first highlight to their base colour and got an even coat over the model.  I then put a blob of their base and their first highlight on a wet pallette and smudged them together, creating a smooth transition acorss the blend from which I could apply multiple stages of thin highlights over my model.

Shade: I took their base colour and smudged it in to their shade colour as above and did the same again.

Final highlight: Same but smudging my first highlight in to a little of their final highlight

At no point did my colours match their photos, but I like the results.  I need to work on my thinning and wet pallette use, but I do like the tones.  It reminds me of the PP Cryx Pallid Flesh recipe, which I’ve always liked.  Maybe others can match the photos with these paints, but I feel their guide pics are misleading and I’m happy enough with my results.

Time to test of the Nocturna Flesh Blue Tones recipe on Raging Heroes Shiveryah:

Pic 3: Now my photos are starting to be misleading.  While her purple tones weren’t as vibrant as in the guide, she was more purple to the naked eye.  A pale grey-purple.  Step 2 was to highlight with Pale Flesh and yet in their photos the model just gets more purple.  There’s no purple in Pale flesh.  Its a pale flesh colour.  Its like their pics aren’t meant to show you what they’ve done, but are clean repaints of the same piece using just the colour they’ve mentioned.

Pic 4: I’ve followed their guide as best as I can using the techniques discussed for the Demon of Lust.  What I have now is someone with pale purple Dark Elf skin and I really like it, but it is drastically different to what I can see in their photos and not what I was working towards.  Now I’m writing this I’m lookin at Pic 4 below and it does not match the model on my desk, so I’m guessing cameras don’t show this paint shceme very well?  I would not call this Blue Tones.  It’s more purple than the Purple Tones recipe above.

This just leaves the Green Tones recipe to test.  I don’t have a model to hand that is asking for that.  I’ll have to have a hunt around and see what I want to test that on.

 

So far, I rate these paints, but the guide is misleading/lying.  The colours are all muted and desaturated and I have achieved good results with them.  It’s just a shame they didn’t take a little more time over the guide.

 

If you have experience working with this guide please let me know of your experience below.  Am I the problem here, or have others had similar experiences?

If anyone at OTT is reading this I’d love an Edit button at the top as well as the bottom of the project entries.  My entries keep getting long and longer and always require many edits.

40 MTG: Force Grown Drones and Two Objectives

Tutoring 5
Skill 5
Idea 5
No Comments

I finished work on the last of the Spire Drones and the two Spire themed objectives from the Conquest 2 player starter set over the weekend.  This leaves me with only 40 models left to paint, still ignoring the bits box and the box of stuff I’d much rather sell, although I’ve made no attempts to sell since Covid as unnecessary trips to the post office seem bad for everyone.

Final two objectives from Conquest boxFinal two objectives from Conquest box
Final 12 Force Grown DronesFinal 12 Force Grown Drones

I’ve built and primed the final model from the box, the Abomination.  He’s bigger than I thought and a real pain to stick together.  The tricky part was pinning each leg to the body and aligning each of the feet with the legs in such a way that the feel all touch the floor in a plausable way and all four feet fit on the base, which I think could do with being bigger for this guy.

I also built and primed a few fun models for afterwards so I wouldn’t have to wait for anything to dry further down the line.   I’ve just been put on furlough so it would be a shame to waste any of that hobby time.

My tray of recently primed minisMy tray of recently primed minis

54 MTG: Pheromancer, Force Grown Drones and Infinity Zanshi

Tutoring 4
Skill 4
Idea 4
No Comments

I’ve had a productive week.  I finished the first 12 Force Grown Drones and went back and painted the hat I had missed on the Pheromancer because the studio paint scheme has it painted bone, but the art has it painted as cloth.  I always thought cloth made more sense, but I’m not an alien elf bioengineer so what do I know?

Monkeys With Fire’s January community painting challenge was to paint a Zanshi from Infinity (Donated by Corvus Belli).  I’ve painted mine up following the Angel Giraldez guide books as an attempt to learn.  I’m quite happy with the results.  The white and the yellow were airbrushed on but I removed the paint from most of one kneecap while painting the trousers and had to paint it back by hand.  I can’t see the difference so I’m quite chuffed.  This was a welcome change of pace from all the batch painting I’ve been doing.  On that subject, I’ve already laid down the first coat of the blue/green cloth on the next 12 drones.

 

Oh, hey!  Look at that.  I’m back under the number of models to paint that I was at when I started this project!  I do have 1.5ish litres of resin to use up when the temperature rises.  I’ve a robot dragon to print and who knows what else.

12 Force Grown Drones12 Force Grown Drones
PheromancerPheromancer
Zanshi from Yu Jing for infinityZanshi from Yu Jing for infinity

68 MTG: Brutes Done & MWF Prize and Challenge

Tutoring 4
Skill 5
Idea 6
No Comments

I’ve finished painting the Spire Brute Drones.  I thought I’d finished painting the Phermancer too.  He matches the studio paint scheme, but then I saw the art work and his hat is cloth and not bone like with the studio scheme.  This makes much more sense to me so I’m going to go back and paint that when I paint the cloth on the final 12 Drones as I’m almost done on the first 12 now

I also received my prize minis from MonkeysWithFire.  It also included my free mini for the MWF January Community Challenge, donated by Corvus Belli: a Yu Jing Zanshi trooper with a Micro Arts Studios MDF base insert.  A bunch of us are painting the same mini and should have pics sent back by 2nd January.  I have the Angel Giraldez books so I’ll be looking to follow them.

65 MTG: Conquest Objectives & Spire Started

Tutoring 8
Skill 7
Idea 8
No Comments
The four non-Spire objectives from the starter set came together quickly while i was waiting for washes etc to dry on the Spires.  If you look close at the dragon skull you can see they sculpted it with an eyeball bone???The four non-Spire objectives from the starter set came together quickly while i was waiting for washes etc to dry on the Spires. If you look close at the dragon skull you can see they sculpted it with an eyeball bone???

I have built, primed and based all the Spires except the Abomination.  I’ve applied two washes to the bone and since drybrushed it all up twice.  I am currently painting the cloth on the Pheromancer and the Brutes.  The shields remain separate as they would just make life very hard if glued on before painting.  Washes need gravity to work well so I have come up with a solution using Blu Tak

65 MTG: Conquest Objectives & Spire Started

While other painters are getting sponsored by Reaper or Firestorm Games or model companies, I’m chasing the dream: a Heinz sponsorship!

69 MTG: Second 12 Men At Arms and Hundred Kingdoms Paint Recipes

Tutoring 9
Skill 9
Idea 9
No Comments
12 more Ment at Arms12 more Ment at Arms

End of year totals:

  • Unpainted Models Gained: 301 (Mostly from KS’s from last year and one big prize.  Little actual shopping from this year)
  • Models Painted: 413
  • Difference: 112

All thats left to go is the Spires and the 6 objectives and all thats left is fun solo models to paint (And Kingdom Death: Monster and Aeon Tresspass: Odyssey for delivery mid-late next year, theoretically).

 

With my Hundred Kingdoms fully painted, I should probably write down what paints I used so in 20XX when Im allowed to play real people again and decide to add to this force I can match the scheme.  I started with a black prime only.

Mission Models: MMM-002 Cold Rolles Steel

Steel:

Airbrush a single thin all over coat so it still looked mostly black.  Single thicker coat from the top and sides. Single coat from above.  Add in some VGS 72.752 Silver and spray from above only.  Myabe a coat of just the silver but Im not sure?  Allow to dry properly.  Targetted wash with GW Nuln Oil only in therecesses and edges, and over any chain mail.  Almost a pin wash.  Drybrush with P3 Cold Steel.

Leather:

Paint the armour P3 Bootstrap and the straps VMC Panzer Aces 302 Dark Rust.  Drybrush with P3 Hammerfall Khaki.  Wash with GW Agrax Earthshade

Flesh:

Base with P3 Midlund flesh.  Wash with Midlund Flesh and P3 Skorne Red mix.  Wash with Midlund Flesh and P3Battledress Green mix.  Wash with Skorne Red and Battledress Green Mix.  Highlight with Midlund Flesh and P3 Ryn Flesh mix.

Red Cloth:

Base with 50/50 Kimera Kolors Red Oxide and Orange.  Takes many layers.  Shade with 3: Red Oxide:Orange and then just Red Oxoide.  Highlight up with 2:1 Orange: Red Oxide, then just Orange, and then 50/50 Orange: Kimera Kolors The White.  These paints are so thin and fluid I stopped adding water to them.

Red Arrow Flights:

Base with GW Evil Sunz Scarlet.  Wash with GW Carroburg Crimson.  Drybrush with GW Wild Rider Red.

Red Plumes:

Base with GW Khorne Red.  Drybrush with GW Evil Sunz Scarlet.  Drybrush with GW Wild Rider Red.  Wash with GW Carroburg Crimson.  Drybrush with GW Wild Rider Red.

Red Shields:

Paint many many layers of P3 Red Ink.  Remember to allow to dry thoroughly otherwise the thin coats will tear.  Remember to work with gravity and switch orientation of shields while drying.

Crossbows:

Base with P3 Menoth White Base or any ivory.  Paint VMC 70.828 Woodgrain (transp.)

Grey Cloaks:

Base with P3 Greatcloak Grey with just a little P3 Menoth White Highlight.  Shade with Greatcloak Grey.  Deep shade with 50/50 Greatcloak Grey and P3 Coal Black.  Highlight with Greatcloak Grey mixed with P3 Menoth White Base.  Add Menoth White Highlight to last mix for final highlights.  This came out more blue than expected.  Perhaps add a final all over wash of GW Nuln Oil to make it more grey in future before applying highlights?

Grey/Black Shoes:

Base with VMC 70.995 German Grey.  Drybrush with P3 Mentoh White Highlight.  Wash with GW Nuln Oil

Horses: I should have wrote this one down sooner.  I don’t remember clearly.  Base with VMC 70.826 German Cam. Med. Brown.  Mix in some VMC 70.883 Flat Earth and highlight up.  Use pure flat earth.  Mix in P3 Hammerfal Khaki(?) and bring up too far.  Wash down with AP Strong Tone

Hooves:

Base with P3 Cryx bane base.  Paint vertical stripes of P3 Trollblood Highlight and then P3 Hammerfall Khaki.  Wash once or twice with GW Nuln Oil

Gold:

Base with P3 Rhulic Gold.  Wash with GW Seraphim Sepia.  Highlight with P3 Solid Gold

Bases

Prime Black.  Airbrush enough VMA 71.043 Olive Drab to tint the ground but not dominate it.  Drybrush with P3 Bootstrap Leather.  Pick out the stones with P3 Bastion Grey.  Wash stones with GW Nuln Oil.  Drybrush stones and ground gently with P3 ‘Jack Bone.

I think thats everything?

 

I’ve also built all the Spires except the Abomination, and prepared their bases.  The bases need to dry for 8-12 hours before getting a final coat of water PVA and then they want a day or two to dry before priming.  I’m saving the Abomination for after as it deserves more attention and I hope to understand the requirements for painting this faction better when Im done with the infantry, allowing me to plan sub assemblies better.

All the Spires built and their bases drying, except for the AbominationAll the Spires built and their bases drying, except for the Abomination

69 MTG: Second 12 Men At Arms and Hundred Kingdoms Paint Recipes

Tutoring 9
Skill 10
Idea 11
No Comments
12 more Ment at Arms12 more Ment at Arms

With my Hundred Kingdoms fully painted, I should probably write down what paints I used so in 20XX when Im allowed to play real people again and decide to add to this force I can match the scheme

All the Spires built and their bases drying, except for the AbominationAll the Spires built and their bases drying, except for the Abomination

81 MTG: First 12 Men At Arms

Tutoring 6
Skill 9
Idea 10
No Comments

Here’s the first 12 Men At Arms all painted up.  I’ve started work on the next 12 and hope to have them done before the new year.  I also painted the red of the flag objective at the same time to save time later.

81 MTG: First 12 Men At Arms

93 MTG Hundred Kingdoms Cavalry & MWF Awards

Tutoring 8
Skill 11
Idea 11
No Comments
3 Man unit of Household Knights3 Man unit of Household Knights
Rotational view of a Household knightRotational view of a Household knight
Noble LordNoble Lord

For the record, that steel looks a lot smoother in person.  Sometimes the camera shows all the flaws with my airbrushing that the eye cannot see.

That’s me done for 401 models this year and 100 more models done than I’ve gained.  Time to start work on the 24 Men-at-Arms, possibly as two units of 12.  I’m also one mission in to Heart of Glorm (Mice and Mystics expansion 1).  Playing through this is part of my 2021 hobby pledge.

Monkeys With Fire had their first Annual Community Hobby Awards last week.  Only 4-6 entries per category, but I picked up Best Bust for Brisket.  I think I actually came second, but he wanted to spread the prize support around and SuperSarah1313 had already won something.  I also won two joke awards.  Best Miniature Booty and Mini Painting Machine.

My pledges for 2021

  • Paint more models than I gain unpainted models

  • If a faction starts the year 100% painted it should end the year 100% painted

  • Complete playthrough of Reichbusters once the errata is delivered (Currently looking at march-ish, only 1 year after the game was actually delivered) – I’m already half way through and on hold waiting

  • Try Aeon Trespass: Odyssey before pledge manager closes (Delivery looking at Q3 2021 at the moment)

  • If I like AT:O paint ahead of what’s needed (4 Titans, Hekaton, and Labyrinthauros for prelude chapter I think, + more as I play)

  • Try KD:M and If I like it, paint ahead of what’s needed (Arriving May?) (4 Survivors, White Lion, & Antelope + more as I play)

  • Mice and Mystics: Heart of Glorm expansion: Paint the two characters and play the game

  • Play through the Mice and Mystics: Heart of Glorm expansion

  • Clear out the bulk paintables so I can focus on fun character stuff (75 Conquest minis from starter set)

  • Get my party to complete the current D&D campaign before life gets in the way

97 MTG Heart of Glorm & Hundred Kingdoms

Tutoring 8
Skill 10
Idea 10
2 Comments

During a recent week of work I played through Mice and Mystics just in time to pick up the first expansion cheap during Black Friday.  The box turned up the following Friday afternoon, and I got them painted on that Saturday.  Here is Neré and Glorm ready for a Christmas playthrough.

I won the Conquest starter set here a month back.  I’ve finished my first unit and as such tested the paint scheme.  Now to power through the rest of the Hundred Kingdoms.  If I can paint 3 more models I’ll have painted 400 models this year.  A new personal best and hopefully the last chance I’ll have to do this.  One more on top of that and I’ll have painted 100 models more than I’ve gained this year (I do not recall buying 300 models and yet somehow this happened).  So, next up is the 4 cav models from the box.  The metal was done earlier and I’ve already painted the horse flesh and based half the leather.  I’ve 2 weeks left and some time off due.  Pretty sure I can do this.

97 MTG Heart of Glorm & Hundred Kingdoms

111 MTG Aeturnus Continuum Finished

Tutoring 8
Skill 10
Idea 10
No Comments

I’ve finished the final four models from my Aeturnus Continuum starter set, but I spent some money on Black Friday and bought Kingdom Death Monster 1.6 and Heart of Glorm, the first Mice and Mystics expansion.  KDM isn’t turning up until Q2 2021, but Glorm arrived today.  Its only two models and they are currently primed and rying awaiting my attention in the morning.  I’m going to get these two done and then play it over christmas, I think.

MarauderMarauder
Scourge WarjackScourge Warjack
Scourge Warjack with all his magnetised weapon options.  Heavy metal weapons and single point magents do not work well :(Scourge Warjack with all his magnetised weapon options. Heavy metal weapons and single point magents do not work well :(
2x Poetable Void Gates2x Poetable Void Gates
My Aeternus Continuum starter set all finished, and on 3D printed bases kindly supplied by Blinky back when the Kickstarter was live (Its what tricked me in to buying my own printer)My Aeternus Continuum starter set all finished, and on 3D printed bases kindly supplied by Blinky back when the Kickstarter was live (Its what tricked me in to buying my own printer)

EDIT: I won a golden button for these guys.  Probably because I’m the only person here with a painted set, but a button is a button.  I’m half way to doing up a shirt by now I think.

111 MTG Aeturnus Continuum Finished

113 MTG (Ignoring black friday purchases that have yet to arrive): Warcaster and Conquest Continues

Tutoring 7
Skill 8
Idea 8
No Comments
3 man Unit of Vassal Reavers for the Aerternus Continuum from Warcaster3 man Unit of Vassal Reavers for the Aerternus Continuum from Warcaster
I've primed my 100 Kingdoms, base coated the bases, and based and highlighted all the steel on everyone.I've primed my 100 Kingdoms, base coated the bases, and based and highlighted all the steel on everyone.

I had a week off work and with my pile of naked plastic mostly under control I thought I’d play a game. I was able to completethe Mice and Mystics core box, and then order the first expansion cheap on Black Friday.

I was drawn to this game because of its sheer charm.  Its a fary tale in a box.  A kids story as a self contained RPG board game.  Whats not to love?  Well, the game has different ideas.  Its harsh.  Its swingy.  The timer is brutal and never gives you a moments rest.  There are workarounds though.  Here’s what I did to make it enjoyable

1: Take a picture of the game state after you complete each tile.  That way if it goes horribly wrong you only need to replay that one room and not the whole mission.  You will need to repeat rooms no matter how well you play.  Its swingy and the dice and cards can wreck you through no fault of your own.

2: Keep all found equipment between missions, instead of just one card per mouse.  I did this by accident and didn’t notice the actual rule until mission 9.  This helps counter any spikes against you and makes more sense.  Who loots a dungeon and then throws away all the gear you found that kept you alive?

Mice and Mystics completedMice and Mystics completed

Here’s my two big examples of swingyness ruining the game:

1: Theres a rescue mission early on.  Save Lilly.  When you get to her she is at the far end of a long corridor right next to the two baddie spawn points.  Fine.  I drew the initiative cards and it started with all the monsters, and then Lilly and then me.  Monster go first and run towards the nearest model and then spread their attacks evenly amongst targets working down the initiative order.  Turn 1 they can only attack lilly.  Turn 2 even though I’ve gotten close enough she is still their priority target.  I never had a chance to influence this and on repeated attempts she would always die and I couldn’t stop it.  Redrawing initiative made this room much more manageable

2: The final boss of the final mission.  The one we’ve been working towards facing.  She has 4 hit points and an armour of 4.  The most anyone has had up to now is 2/4 or 4/3.  She’s brutal and gets to attack 4 times in a round.  She’s a major problem.  Except one character one hit killed her before she even got to activate due to a fluky attack roll and an even flukier defense roll and they started her backed against a wall, meaning she takes even more damage.  I did 6 points of damage in a single swing, which is more than was possible at any other point in the game.  With her dead, the final level was a cake walk with no real challenge

Oh, and level 1 appears to be famous for being stupidly hard.  You have been warned.

The game was fun, but not what I expected.  I adjusted the rules this way to make it the game I wanted, not the arduous torturefest it would have been otherwise. YMMV.

The heroes of BarksburgThe heroes of Barksburg

119 MTG: Warcaster Aeternus Continuum & Conquest 100 Kingdoms started

Tutoring 6
Skill 10
Idea 8
2 Comments
3x Immortal Weavers for the Aeternus Continuum from Warcaster.  I'm currently working on the rest of the box.  These models would have been better in plastic.  The metal is too soft for the detail, and weighs too much for the magnets that hold the weapons on the upcoming warjack.  The bases were printed by Blinky (Thank you).3x Immortal Weavers for the Aeternus Continuum from Warcaster. I'm currently working on the rest of the box. These models would have been better in plastic. The metal is too soft for the detail, and weighs too much for the magnets that hold the weapons on the upcoming warjack. The bases were printed by Blinky (Thank you).
All the 100 Kingdoms models from the 2 player starter set, all built and ready to rpime.  All the bases are prepared, with their sealant coat of PVA currently drying.  They'll be ready to prime in a day.All the 100 Kingdoms models from the 2 player starter set, all built and ready to rpime. All the bases are prepared, with their sealant coat of PVA currently drying. They'll be ready to prime in a day.

122 MTG: Dinos, a Halfling, and Conquest Arrives

Tutoring 8
Skill 11
Idea 10
No Comments
Skyhuani Windstopper, Amazons, Bloodfields by Titan Forge.  I followed this guide, despite it being off screen and super quiet.: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MugugcYzLCUSkyhuani Windstopper, Amazons, Bloodfields by Titan Forge. I followed this guide, despite it being off screen and super quiet.: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MugugcYzLCU
2x Raptors, Amazons, Bloodfields by Titan Forge2x Raptors, Amazons, Bloodfields by Titan Forge
Halfling Sherriff from ArcworldeHalfling Sherriff from Arcworlde
Tutorial Tile to teach a new bone recipe.  Not bad.  I might try it on a smaller pieceTutorial Tile to teach a new bone recipe. Not bad. I might try it on a smaller piece

My prize copy of Conquest 2 player starter set arrived on Friday and I should start work on it soon so prep has begun with a good wash and scrub.  I’m not sure what colour scheme I want to work with so please please share your schemes for Spires and 100 Kingdoms with me.  I also have no clue what build options to go with for the stuff from this box to provide a fair game without buying more stuff.  I’m yet to compare this stuff to the Path of Conquest videos or look at points costs, but I will before I assemble anything.  Humans first I suspect.

All the plastic drying in my kitchen.  Thats a lot of plasticAll the plastic drying in my kitchen. Thats a lot of plastic
Everything in the box that's not a model.  That's not much.  No assembly instructions which was intimidating until I found them online.Everything in the box that's not a model. That's not much. No assembly instructions which was intimidating until I found them online.
I also snapped up some new brushes as my old ones were failing.  I also snapped up some new brushes as my old ones were failing.

I also snapped up some new brushes as my old ones were failing. As I said previously, I couldn’t get my usual ones so here’s a size comparison and a little feedback.  The black and white brushes have not even seen water yet.  The red and yellow have been used a handful of times at most so are as new.

 

Top to bottom:

W&N Series 7 00

W&N Series 7 1

Rosemary and Co Series 33 0

MIG MP104 1 (Red)

AMMO Synthetic Liner Brush 0/3 (Yellow)

Army painter Regiment Brush for reference as I assume everyone knows these brushes, or at least has access to them.

 

W&Ns are my standard.  The Rosemary & Co seems comparable in scale.  I’ve yet to test it out.  The red and yellow brushes I’ve had for a while but not used until recently.  They came in Asset Drop boxes.  When my brushes started failing I thought I’d test them.

The red brush looks great, but it loses its tip as soon as I start painting with it.  Its terrible for detail, but will hopefully be fine for open surface areas.  I hope I just got a bad brush, but I won’t be buying any more of these.

The yellow brush looks odd. It’s so long.  Its terrible for painting as it has no belly, but amazing for eyes and small dot details.  I’m loving it for that, but I do have to keep reminding myself to swap out to it .

The regiment brush is my go to mixing brush (Not used that one yet).  I always keep one on the go purely to destroy by mixing my paints with.  It tends to paint quite well to begin with, until I trash it.

 

I’ve got this song stuck in my head for now so I’m sharing it all with you, and asking the important question: If this was an option, why did we get the Spice Girls?

51 MTG: 6 Amazons done

Tutoring 6
Skill 9
Idea 8
No Comments

I’ve finished work on 6 of my Titan Forge Amazons.  It’s taken a while as I’ve been distratced by the D&D campaign I’m running, and my brushes are failing making everything harder and less fun.  There seems to be a shortage in the country right now.  Places are out of stock and prices are rising.  W&N S7 0’s are twice the price they usually are and twice the price of the 00 and the 1.

I’ve three dinos to paint for this warband and they’re done so I’ve started the prep work on the next project too.

Coyotla ArchhuntressCoyotla Archhuntress
Talia FeathermageTalia Feathermage
Zanya PathfinderZanya Pathfinder
Ava SerpentmageAva Serpentmage
Heir of KongHeir of Kong
Slanita TempestbornSlanita Tempestborn
I've started laying down the base colours on the three dinos.  Not done with that yet.  Still feeling out where4 I'm going.  The flyers rider is finished and i've primed a skull.I've started laying down the base colours on the three dinos. Not done with that yet. Still feeling out where4 I'm going. The flyers rider is finished and i've primed a skull.
My Warcaster KS arrived a few weeks ago.  I've just built, magnetised, and primed them ready to paint.My Warcaster KS arrived a few weeks ago. I've just built, magnetised, and primed them ready to paint.

I was also lucky enough to win a Conquest 2 player set from OTT this weekend so anyone fearful for my life should know that Gerry has bought me some time.

57 MTG: BonesCon 2018 Event Exclusive Pirate

Tutoring 7
Skill 10
Idea 8
No Comments
BonesCon 2018 Event Exclusive Steampunk PirateBonesCon 2018 Event Exclusive Steampunk Pirate

I finished the solo I started while working on Cyber beauty and I’ve also put a lot of work in to my Amazons.  The feathers are the next big step (I hate painting feathers) and I’ll be taking inspiration from the Seraphon, as this faction is clearly inspired by them and lets me add more colour.  I’ve got 3 dinosaurs yet to start work on to go with these ladies.

I’ve had this months Asset Drop box turn up with two more tiles.  I think I’ll only try out their bone recipe this month and put the crystals in my bits box until a time comes when its useful or I want to try out the recipe.

As I near the end, I feel my focus fading.  I can see me soon spending more time playing solo tabletop games and actually playing computer games again, something I haven’t done since I got in to this hobby.  I did actually start Sword Coast legends at the weekend.  Its not the best, but its not terrible.  its not really D&D and it sufers from being a toolkit with a game built in it, rather than being built as a game straight up.  It more Neverwinter Nights 3 rather than a Baldurs Gate sequel.

57 MTG: BonesCon 2018 Event Exclusive Pirate
57 MTG: BonesCon 2018 Event Exclusive Pirate
57 MTG: BonesCon 2018 Event Exclusive Pirate
57 MTG: BonesCon 2018 Event Exclusive Pirate

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