Skip to toolbar

Thoughts on Citadel Contrast Paint

Home Forums Painting in Tabletop Gaming Thoughts on Citadel Contrast Paint

Supported by (Turn Off)

Related Companies:

This topic contains 48 replies, has 21 voices, and was last updated by  torros 1 month, 4 weeks ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 49 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #1399598

    timchubb
    Keymaster
    1852xp

    Managed to have a go with the new citadel contrast paint at games expo over the weekend, i cant say im amazed by them nor am i disappointed by them but i thought i would share my feelings on them.

    Good

    • Easy to apply and you do get an acceptable finish in 10 mins
    • They wet blend beautifully
    • Large pot size
    • They are bringing out contrast medium to add any paint like lahmian medium
    • Seems thin enough to airbrush out of the pot

    Bad

    • Expensive GW wouldnt confirm the price exactly, but when i asked if between £4.50 and £5 a pot was in the right ball park the said yes…
    • It feels and behaves just like airbrush paint with a drop of flow aid in it, and my “highly scientific” test to determine if flowaid is present is to lick the brush and see if your tongue tingles, and it did, so im going to revisit this once i have some paint in my hands and do a compare and (excuse pun) contrast over using airbrush paint, airbrush paint with flow aid, and citadel contrast.
    • Some shades in the range work much better than others
    • Forget get about getting coverage with a different shade ontop of an existing layer of contrast paint you will need to reprime/paint white or light grey first
    • Pot not dropper bottle, usual problem with the larger citadel pots of being very easy to tip over (yes im looking at you @warzan 😉 )

    Gotcha’s

    • Satin finish on large flat panels, the space marine i painted has a noticably satin finish (this a good thing for applying decals, and would save me my usual satin/gloss coat before decals) compared to the more textured poxwalker i painted, but you would probably want to hit it with some dull cote if your adding contrast painted mini’s to an existing army.
    • Big brushes (like the citadel shade brush) are your friends with this paint, it behaves a lot like a wash, and pools easily, so having a clean dry brush to remove excess pooling helps a lot aswell
    • Primers need to be light, these will not work well on anything other than white or very light grey (the two new primer sprays and paints they are bringing out), halfords grey will be to dark, stynelrez/ump light grey primer would be perfect for a moody paint scheme, other wise white/offwhite will give you quite a bright finish
    • They didnt have any of the metallics out to try, but based on how the colours behaved i would expect them to behave very much like citadel air or model air metallics.

    Examples

    I spent about 30 mins playing with the paints and trying things out, here are the results, for the space marine i just base coated everything in blood angels red, and then tried to layer over it with other contrast paints to very mixed results, for the pox walker i instead painted neatly keeping as much primer as possible visible on the different textures and non flesh parts of the mini, with much better results compared to layering.

    IMG_20190603_164718IMG_20190603_164704IMG_20190603_164710

    As you can see painting ultramarine blue on top of the red resulted in a rather purple helmet (0_o) and thats after 5 cotes of ultra marine blue, the smudge on the pouch was the black acting just like a pooled glaze, and the orange mess of a maglocked helmet is meant to be yellow after 6 cotes.  The bolter and auspex were left free of red and black was applied directly to primer, one cote was used on the sight and auspex and gives a pleasing “stealth” look, and a second cote was applied to the bolters casing giving it a much more charcoal black tone.

    IMG_20190603_164614IMG_20190603_164624

    Whilst waiting for the helmet to dry on the space marine, i painted this pox walker in 10 mins flat and thought i would try a few techniques on it as well, just concentrating on being neat enough whilst painting the flesh on, which was a single cote of plague walker green, the boot is 2 cotes of snakebite leather as is the belt leather skirt, with the chain mail being a single coat of black, for fun i tried wet blending  the nurgle flesh colour and blood angels red and was really pleasantly surprised at how well they blended, the horn was painted with the bone color in the range, by glomming a load on the tip, and working it down the horn, its things like this where the time saving comes into play, it looks the same as my usual horn technique but instead of several layers of agrax earthshade and seraphin sepia graduated up, its a single cote of the bone contrast paint, over brushing blood angels red gives the chafed/weeping flesh effect you can see on legs and belly, other than going back and picking the teeth out and possibly the eyes, i would say that the 10 min and table top ready claim is true, just dont expect good results if you like to prime in a colour other than white or very light grey.

    Verdict

    I will probably pick up a few shades of it (citadel paint geeks rejoice they have brought some old shade names back snakebite leather for example, plague walker flesh is truly a one coat and done solution to getting hoards of nurgle to the table top), but get used to painting on primer on any areas you over shoot the mark with, the recent (i.e. non 90’s advice) of paint it all your base colour then pick details out doesnt really work with contrast paints, much easier and quicker to just be neat in the first place and work methodically; as it took 5 coats to get something remotely resembling blue instead of purple when painting on top of blood angel red, and the yellow just doesnt work on anything but the primer, 6 coats and all i achieved was something vaguely orange, but i wouldn’t say its a revolution if you are used to brush painting with airbrush paint and/or using flow aid with normal acrylics, but for newbs and speed painting its a ready mixed solution….  It also wet blends beautifully out of the pot.  It is worth noting that it dries to satin finish (probably down to the flow aid in the paint), not a very matt one so some dull cote would probably be needed to integrate mini’s painted with contrast into an existing army

    #1399600

    tankkommander
    Participant
    2326xp

    I tried it at the Expo on a space marine with similar results. I concur with you on the contrast paints.

    #1399629

    redben
    Participant
    9196xp

    Just on pricing, it seems as if these will cost the same as Shades

    #1399637

    robert
    Participant
    9026xp

    Interesting stuff.  I think I’ll get a couple of pots to try out.  From what I have seen they look better and easier to paint on highly textured models rather than on Space Marines.

    #1399737

    limburger
    Participant
    7414xp

    I think these paints are meant to be used as a single layer, so I’m not surprised that they don’t really work when trying to use them on top of an existing one. There’s bound to be a few exceptions and as Warrens’ video showed you really need to let it dry before even attempting that second layer.

    Yes … it probably is expensive on a per pot basis, but I’d argue that (the good variants) should be compared to buying 2 paints (1 base colour + 1 shade).

    There are also bound to be (potentially cheaper) alternative DIY variants, but they value of these things is that they are ready to use by non-painters. Yes, your painting technique will be better if you learn it ‘the hard way’. However not everyone is as interested in painting.

    As such I’d say this is probably a really good value for beginners who want to get their army tabletop ready with minimal effort.

    Full range revealed :

    https://www.warhammer-community.com/2019/06/02/pre-order-next-week-contrast-and-more/

    ‘expert’ demo :

    https://www.warhammer-community.com/2019/06/03/one-week-armies-james-littlers-gloomspite-gitzgw-homepage-post-3fw-homepage-post-2/

     

    #1400414

    mkultra99
    Participant
    489xp

    I wish someone would shoot this stuff through an airbrush and post results.

    #1400515

    limburger
    Participant
    7414xp

    @mkultra99 : I’m sure someone will once they’re released … although I’m not sure if they’re going to be as cool as the effect seems to rely on the thick layer to work.

    #1400717

    skiptotheend
    Participant
    2212xp

    I think i am going to use these on colours I find hard to paint with (to a level that i deem acceptable) mainly these are when i try and paint less grimey eg: brilliant yellows, blues, reds – I know its a shortcut and i should work on this but my painting across the board isn’t great and it gets it to an acceptable level haha

    #1400735

    mellett68
    Participant
    2186xp

    I’m looking at my half-finished moonclan grots and thinking maybe contrast would have been for me. If I was starting a horde army now I probably would use it. After all it seems like it’s not miles away from the grey-to-white primer technique that I forget the name of, followed by washes.

    Overall I’m in no rush to buy new paint so it’ll be interesting to see how people use it when it’s generally available.

    #1400797

    jamjarst
    Participant
    1767xp

    I’m planning to use the Contrast Paints on all the conquest stuff I have to see if I can create 2 playable armies.

    #1400822

    mkultra99
    Participant
    489xp

    I’m really hopeful these paints will change attitudes in our hobby overall. As noted by above posts.. we shouldn’t be embarrassed by painted models , ever.. we should be ashamed of the unpainted. But the attitude has sunk in that if we can’t paint golden demons every day, then don’t paint at all. There shouldn’t be any shame in not wanting to get deeper into painting either.. .it’s OK to just want achieve a decent basic paint job and not want to explore the inner depths and intricacies of wet blending with subdued bi-chromatic hues.

    #1400836

    mellett68
    Participant
    2186xp

    You’re totally right.

    I’ve always been really embarrassed to field an unpainted unit or model but I’ve also never played competitively or tried to field an army with any particular speed before, so I can fully understand how the ‘grey tide’ comes about.

    Not everybody is going to enjoy all aspects of the hobby equally, though there’s clearly more stigma around “I just wanna roll dice” than there is around “I just wanna paint models.”

    #1400858

    timchubb
    Keymaster
    1852xp

    @mkultra99 would be just like normal airbrush paint, especially something like tamiya clear shades or badger ghost tints, thats basically all it is, the contrast “technique” is exactly the same in concept as preshading with an airbrush, i.e. you rely on the translucence of the paint to let the let the light undercoat through (instead of the shadow colour with a preshade), thus creating a lighter shade.  All that differs compared to normal airbrush paint is that it has a flow aid of some sort to make it pool and run off the high points.

    That said with it being just like airbrush paint im sure that this will be more widely stocked than the citadel air range, so bit of a bonus in terms or ease of picking up shades, just wish this was the paint they did citadel dropper bottles with….

    #1400873

    hobbyhub
    Participant
    1708xp

    @mkultra99 Kris Belleau of Miniwargaming has looked at Contrast applied via airbrush here:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMWssEGQGVM

    He has done a lot of testing on his own channel and got other Miniwargaming personalities to give their impressions whilst they are doing an initial test mini.

    #1400877

    mkultra99
    Participant
    489xp

    @hobbyhub thanks mate. Well sh!t, guess it looses it’s magic through an airbrush..

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 49 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Supported by (Turn Off)